Mazda Rotary Club

I\'m going to tackle the installation of a power fc and commander into my FD3 this week, although it\'s doesn\'t look the most complex job, I\'ve read that some wires need to be clipped.

As my manual is in Japanese, I have no idea which ones, anyone got any experience with the install?

(I\'ve checked the serials and I have the right units, I want to try them out prior to taking the car to a dyno for setting up).

Alistair.

Remove passenger side kick plate and footwell cover, unplug stock ecu  and plug in Apexi. Its the yanks that have to chop stuff about...

It\'s real simple to fit, just make sure to disconnect the battery before messing round with the ECU connections.

I have mild mods, and have been running the ECU on the base map built in for over two years now. One day I would like to get it mapped on a rolling road. Only downside is that it runs a bit rich for me, but as I don\'t do too many miles, then I don\'t worry too much about that.

I don\'t know about the AFR at WOT using the base map, perhaps someone else can comment?

Cheers,

Richard

QuoteOriginally posted by moakesr
It\'s real simple to fit, just make sure to disconnect the battery before messing round with the ECU connections.

I have mild mods, and have been running the ECU on the base map built in for over two years now. One day I would like to get it mapped on a rolling road. Only downside is that it runs a bit rich for me, but as I don\'t do too many miles, then I don\'t worry too much about that.

I don\'t know about the AFR at WOT using the base map, perhaps someone else can comment?

Cheers,

Richard

I heard they are fine for standard bolt-on mods. Anything else and you\'re risking your engine.

Make sure you do the proper set up procedure though.

Adam

having seen the difference recently between the base map and having it mapped by a professional with a proven map, I would strongly reccomend you get it mapped.

I dropped the FC in, the car pulls as well as before (seems a little smoother), but, it ticks over at 1800 RPM (even when warm).

I\'ve gone through the set procedure, starting it, then putting on the electrical load, but that seemed to have no effect.

Seems a little odd, any ideas? as I\'d like to get this ironed out before I arrange for a mapping/dyno session.

The cars is a Jap \'92, with recent rebuild, recent turbos and stock apart from a HKS racing suction kit and a racing beat exhaust.

Alistair.

i thought idle speed was totally adjustable in wotever situation with the FC so may just need telling to do so...?
Si (as i understand it...)

true

QuoteOriginally posted by AlistairWyse
I dropped the FC in, the car pulls as well as before (seems a little smoother), but, it ticks over at 1800 RPM (even when warm).

I\'ve gone through the set procedure, starting it, then putting on the electrical load, but that seemed to have no effect.

Seems a little odd, any ideas? as I\'d like to get this ironed out before I arrange for a mapping/dyno session.

The cars is a Jap \'92, with recent rebuild, recent turbos and stock apart from a HKS racing suction kit and a racing beat exhaust.

Alistair.

Check this out:

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6244

Thanks, I\'ll have a look at that, but I think it may be in vain as the car idles smoothly, at 1800RPM whether cold or warmed up.

I\'ve tried the manual idle adjustment menu, and changing the idle speeds (all six) has no effect on the idle speed, still 1800RPM.

On the brightside, I have less chance of getting bogged down with low torque when I set off ;)

Alistair.

i vaguely recall there being a screw or sumin you can adjust to, the front right of plenium if yer stood infront of bonnet as i recall, change the idol. Dont quote me on that & i maybe talking poo or it was sumin totally different but i vaguely recall Clive et al doing it to someones car at santa pod earlier in the year......
Si

Si is right in that there is an idle bleed bypass screw on the throttle body.

It allows a certain amount of air to bypass the butterfly without the ECU being in control as it is when it uses the idle air valve.

I have seen in some of the American forums that this can need adjusting after fitting a Power FC.  The fact your idle is fast, but stable and not bouncing around makes me think this could need adjusting.

I have also read that a certain amount of carbon buildup occurs between the butterfly and the throttle body, which can also allow air to leak by.  Perhaps that might need to be cleaned to allow better sealing in the throttle body.

Good Luck,

Richard