car is still messing around! still wont turn ecu on, still wont crank off the key! im seriously getting to the end of my tether now!!
there are no broken cables no blown fuses, checked the relays they are all ok! got a new interior fuse box off a working car, got a new ignition barrel off a working car... i have had the entire dash out i have checked EVERY wire lol!
there is no alarm yet the car is acting like there is an immobiliser still on the car, put the key in the ignition switch it to accessory, (first click) dash odometer comes on, radio comes on, switch to click 2, (on) radio stays on ecu still stays turned off! go to start and nothing, it all turns off like you would expect....
there is no alarm or immobiliser thats all been removed!
ecu works on other cars
no blown fuses
no broken relays
battery has full charge
im completely COMPLETELY stuck
only thing i cant work out is off the ecu wireing i have 1 yellow wire coming off on of the plugs that isnt attached! its one of the plugs thats on the car loom, not the one that comes in from the engine bay... if you look at the front of the apexi so the apexi logo is facing you its the plug on the far left
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c145/malice-uk1/61ad9dbc.jpg)
its on the back of the plug the 4th wire along...
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c145/malice-uk1/7093570c.jpg)
its plugged in to the plug but its loose the other end... and i cant see a wire where its broken off of?? so can someone have a look and tell me if its connected to anything on their car??
Have you got a copy of the Wiring Manual ? Whats your email address ?
Shaun
i do but i cant work it out lol!
james_dirkin@hotmail.com
Just looking at it and I see what you mean ! What colour is the cable ? Is it yellow and white or yellow and grey ?
Shaun
Looking at your original post did you trace all the break points for the immobiliser and rewire them together ?
Shaun
yeh all the cut points were re soldered....
the colour of the cable is yellow with white trace...
Just a long shot.....
Change the main 120A fuse in the engine bay (bolted down). They are a slow blow fuse and go sour and still have continuity on the tester. I had to get a 100A one because I couldn\'t get hold of the 120A.
Shaun
changed it lol....
only things i have changed since the old engine was removed... i pulled out the air con relay... (cant see this having an issue) and i havent got the rad fans plugged in... hnmmm
It should be part of the bundle of wires off that plug !
Another question is how much have you had out of the car ? I did find when putting my car back together after the cage that 2 of the plugs are the same in the mass of plugs on the drivers footwell that goes into the fuse box in the car. The plugs are the same but do completely different jobs.
Shaun
i found that all the plugs in the footwell only go on one type of plug...
so that yellow wire should be connected? **SIGH**!! honestly couldnt find the other end anywhere :(
If you have unplugged any of the ones on the opposite side of the car the there is the same plug used twice. I did a lot of head scratching trying to work it out.
Shaun
you talking the ones that go in to the fuse box?? or the ones just below the fuse box?? just been and looked and all the plugs i can see will only fit in one plug...
random question, i was just looking, i did a continuity test on the starter solenoid wire... when the switch is off on accessory or on or switch to starter... the solenoid wire (black with red stripe) is grounded to the body.... can someone else check this for me?! run a test on a multimeter and see if their black with red stripe wire off the back of the starter is grounded?! doesnt seem right to me?!
If I remember right the longer green plug for the fuse box is the same plug as the White one that connects the loom lower down in the cavity.
Shaun
yeh i didnt disconnect any of the ones further down....
Try this attachment for what each wire does. THat yellow one doesn\'t do anything so I wouldn\'t worry about it.
Are you getting power to the two wires at the opposite end of that plug? One should be constant 12v, the other should be 12v only with the ignition on.
hope that helps,
Steve
So according to the pinout pdf you should have voltage between 1A and 4A/B/C or D all the time and 1B and 4A/B/C/D with ignition on....have you verified that with the multimeter?
im getting nothing except a few have 0.**v like nothing noticeable :S cant work out from that diagram which is plug 1 and which is plug 4 lol but on either testing the fronts and backs there is no 12v going there :S
If I\'m reading it correctly I\'d say plug 1 should have 22 pins plug 4 should have 26 pins. If that is right then the first 4 pins on plug 4 are Ground pins so you should see continuity between them and metalwork. If you have a wiring diagram you should be able to suss what plug is what though.
I should start by grounding the multimeter on the shell to try and verify any voltage on the pins and then try it on the grounds of the plug.
Quote from: MaLicE;707672im getting nothing except a few have 0.**v like nothing noticeable :S cant work out from that diagram which is plug 1 and which is plug 4 lol but on either testing the fronts and backs there is no 12v going there :S
The plug with the loose wire is Plug 1. So, looking at that plug from the wire side (with the loose yellow wire towards the bottom left). You should have 12v positive at all times to the wire at the top right.
The wire at the bottom right shouldn\'t get any voltage until you turn the ignition on. Once on you should see 12v positive.
Are you getting either of those?
right worked out plug 1, pin a that should have a constant 12v and it doesnt! now the wire goes up through the bulkhead down the passenger wing and in to the bay but where it goes there im unsure... does anyone know or can you make sense of the diagram in the workshop manual??
....and pin 3 should see 12v when you twist the key to the crank position. Do you have a PDF wiring diagram for your year FD?
i have the fd wiring diamgram yeh... and im getting nothing on the other pins well the switched live isnt... the wiring diagram is like hell on a bad day to try and work out lol!
That yellow wire on the on the FC Apexi ecu is for the speed pick up. It goes to the cruise control switch on the dash. But that is for the FC not FD.
just uploading the wiring manual will put the link up if you dont mind having a look??
Can you email it too me?
captainbizzaro at aol dot com
Quote from: MaLicE;707691right worked out plug 1, pin a that should have a constant 12v and it doesnt! now the wire goes up through the bulkhead down the passenger wing and in to the bay but where it goes there im unsure... does anyone know or can you make sense of the diagram in the workshop manual??
According to the wiring diagram it should go to the 10amp Room fuse under the driver\'s side dash.
Yeah thats cool mate I\'ll take a butchers
Quote from: efiniste;707706According to the wiring diagram it should go to the 10amp Room fuse under the driver\'s side dash.
thats strange as it goes through the bulkhead and down the big bundle of wires that go under the pass wing...
argh my upload died lol!
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/3rd_gen/
seems to have them on it...
http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/mazda/1994-mazda-rx-7-wiring-diagram-pdf.html
or there
ECU wiring out of manual.
Shaun
Starting system too :
Have you checked the 15A Engine fuse in the Starter diagram ?
Shaun
i\'m guessing its not at the stage where the ecu throws error codes as its not really getting any power to be able to show any error codes?
ecu not even turning on lol! when the ignition is switched on only things working is interior light, rad fans and radio... nothing else works, i been through every single fuse i can find on the car even the one on the blower motor that is hidden up behind the dash lol!
does your fuel pump prime up on 1st click?
Does the fuel pump fire up?
You are going to have to start at the beginning mate...so first off confirm voltage at the ignition switch
Then when the key is all the way round the voltage from that fires the egi, fuel pump and fuel pump (speed) relay coils . Then if you look at the diagram pin 1B which is your switched feed to the ecu is then fed by the egi relay so you need to see if u have voltage at
a)the coil (switched) side of the egi relay
b)The high current side of the egi relay
We just need to break it down and look at it in sections rather than looking at the whole lot and getting depressed!
It\'s fixed I\'m a idiot!!! The fuse box on the battery positive terminal... Forgot to plug the 2 plugs in under it!!! In my defence they were only visible when I pulled the arch liner out lol!!!!
Anyway wanna say thanks for all the help on here and fduk and thanks to ben Lewis! And kris who came out to mine to help me!! I owe you both drinks!!! And also dave HG who is also a complete legend for putting up with my stupidity!!! Now a few more jobs then start running it in!!! Get it mapped and have some fun :)
lol, main thing is that its resolved now :) HAPPY DAYS :)
Great it turned out something Easy !
Shaun
Happy Days
thanks for your help guys!!
No worries....thats what we\'re here for!
Now back to my carb-I like the wiring diagram for that lol.:bandit:bandit:bandit
Glad i could be of help mate, you need anymore help gimme a shout
Kris
Seeing it resolved this way has made me happy in so many ways :D