hey, what boost should i expect on my car with the non sequensial setup? in first i get about .25, then second almose .3 then in 3rd i get .35 the car has done about 55k so i wasnt expecting great results but still would have thought it would be better? i do hope to go full non sequensial very soon but is this a sign that the turbo is near done or do i have a leak??
Poor mans non sequential builds stock boost .7 bar (10 psi) by around 4000 rpms. You should be able to make that in every gear.
Yours is either leaking, convertion not done correctly, or turbos are gone. Is the secondary gate wired or welded open? Full non sequential is a much better way to go non sequential. Is the primary gate still connected like normal or was it wired open or left disconnected?
Did it boost up okay when it was running sequential?
yea it would boost up fine before so i new something was up but i ddint have the boost gadge at that stage to see what i was getting.
i found that i had managed to pull one of the lines off from the wastgate solinoid so reconnected that and double checked and made sure everything was blocked off round it. it now boosts to around .55 /.6 so deffo improvment. i have the turbo control acctuator removed and that wired open but nothing else after that. where are the primary and secondry gates located?
Are you running the stock boost control or an aftermarket?
It sounds like the wastegate pill has been removed from the line. This would only allow about 8 or 9 psi. If you run an aftermarket boost controller this shouldn\'t matter. In a sequential system I\'ve heard with the pill installed it will keep the dip during transition from dropping as much. (Not an issue for non sequential but it will limit boost with it out)
If you\'re running a boost controller you should be able to make more boost then that. If not, you can either put the pill back in the line, install a boost controller, or make one out of a simple needle valve and brass hose barbs.
A list of your mods would be helpful too. If you\'re mechanically inclined it\'s much more worth it to go full non sequential. Poor man\'s non sequential is worse in every way compared to sequential, except being more reliable. But it\'s laggy, and just as restrictive as sequential so all in all it\'s not worth it. If it were me it would stay fully sequential or go single turbo.
the car is mostly standard. at the minute it only has a cat back with the poor mans non sequential. i have been looking to do the full conversion but haven been able to find a reasonable how to on it. i would be mechanically minded but dont know alot about the rx7 just yet. the car is my drifter so that was the reason for the choice of the non sequential. i have never head of "pill" before. what is it and is it likley that i have removed this during the poor mans setup described on here?
The wastegate pill is a restrictor that is in the wastegate vacuum line. If you messed with the vacuum lines it\'s possible you removed it. For a drift car I would imagine the faster spooling sequential twins is a better setup. As it is now, you have the same power output as before with more lag.
Here\'s a good writeup:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/tech_fd_emiss_remov_nonseq.html
fair play man, that is by far the clearest wright up iv seen. i dont believe iv takin out the pill as i never removed any lines, jus capped of what wasnt needed. i also noticed im now not getting any rise in my oil pressure? have you any ideas on that?
Probably the oil pressure sender. The rx7 has weird issues with the sender preventing the gauge from reading correctly. Either that or your low on oil. Other then that the oiling system is very reliable on the rx7 so it\'s probably okay.
cheers, i would like to prove the gadge if i could, is there a way you could suggest for doing this? or prove the pressure s rising?
You can hook an aftermarket gauge up, or try cleaning the connections on the sender. Or could replace the sender.
cheers. i have an unusaly hi idel, it just appeard one day when i was letting the car warm. could this also be a sign of a possible leak in the system? this was before i done the non seq. it had done its initial warm up and was in the low revs then it just hiked itself back up again. i also forgot to mention that i removed the second set of butterflys from the TB and capped off using a plate and gasket.
Vacuum leaks that cause idle surge are always after the throttle body. It would be good to pressure test the whole intake track to look for both vacuum and boost leaks. Pressure test from right after the Y pipe and use soapy water to find any leaks. Carb cleaner can help find vacuum leaks around the throttle body and uim. Start the car, spray using the can straw and listen for the idle to drop when you find a leak.
class man, cheers for that. i take it the only way to do the full conversion is to remove the turbos for working at the wastgate etc? is there any suggestions as how to remove the turbos with the least stress? i searched this site but i didnt come up with any advice for takin them out and looked on an american site too but the only thing i can really come up with there is to take everything off above the turbos, remove the steering rack link and push it to one side and pray to the gods to let the nuts and bolts stay intact and not brake. how long would you think it would take to do the full conversion? well even just remove the turbos?
I would spray everything down with penetrating oil first and let it soak 24hrs. I\'m not going to do a writeup on removing the turbo\'s, all I can say is it\'s pretty straight forward. I have no idea your mechanical skills, so how long it will take depends on you. If you doubt yourself maybe best to take it to a shop. You sound a little bit over your head, but the best way to learn is by doing. So if your comfortable with it, just dive in and get the turbo\'s off. Once you start removing things it should be obvious what\'s in the way and what bolts are holding it on.
hey, cheers again for all you info and advice. an so i took your advice and went for it, done the full conversion, removed the airpump, remoed the aircon pump, removed and smoothed off the devider where the second butterflys were, installed a boost controller to run on .65 and incresed the steering lock and this was the result :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/leefitz88/d460bcd8.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/leefitz88/62ca84ee.jpg)
had a class day out and even meet 2 other lad in rx7s, fd and a fc so couldnt complain, well apart from running outa tyers ;D cheers again man, think its time to move on to ecu and exhaust upgrades to start working a bit more out of the car
Well in buddy - looks like it worked well enough! ;o)
Cheers man, it did for sure. Now hopefully by changing the exhaust and upgrading the ecu to cope with the changes I will be able to lower the rpm that I have to wait for them to spool up. The biggest difference I noticed was the lock, I could really pick up speed then loose it all with big angle before the hairpins, love it :D
Rolling on a nice set of Rega\'s ( well at the front ) I notice ;)
Yea, there form my good fd for the road lol, I steel them when I go out for the sticky Dunlops that\'s on them, hopein to get a propper set for the drifter as it\'s only a matter of time till i damage them and i don\'t want that :S
Glad to hear you got it all fully converted. You pulled the turbo\'s and ported the wastegate out right? If you need any parts check out wannaspeed.com they know their stuff with the rx7\'s, and Brent the owner will reply to any emailed questions you have about anything you can think of.
Cheers, must give the website a look. And yep, got it ported no problem, once I seen what way it was working i porter it out to just within the limit and then in and round to a smooth finish. And now a new found respect for anyone pullin the turbos off and refitting them on these cars, time consuming for sure. But well worth it in the end. Will have to start looking into the next moves I could make with the car now