Hi everyone,
I am cancelling my trip to japshow this year as my passenger side front wheel has a leak and a cut in the sidewall, its been like that for a bit, but im scared its going to blow out on the drag strip - not good.
I have my full set of wheels and tyres in the garage, but the OEM wheel nuts can\'t be done up as the holes are recessed and I can\'t get a tyre iron on them to tighten them.
I therefore need new wheel nuts, I saw DM motorsport do them, will the FD ones fit an FC?
Also, what spacers do you think I need? The wheels are custom 3 piece so don\'t have the standard \'wheel is this size\' sort of stamp on it, tyres are 265 rear, 245 fronts, I saw a 35 stamped on the centre, so that might be the ET.
They came off an FD with no mods to fit them on.
PLEASE can I have some help to get these new wheels fitted, otherwise I will just give up again this year of trying to get a drag strip time :(
They should have the size stamped somewhere on them. post some pics of the back up
Quote from: lee mills;702479They should have the size stamped somewhere on them. post some pics of the back up
They are custom 3 piece, anything can be bolted to the centre lol
Wheel widths are measured from inside bead to inside bead so for example if yours measures 10.5" then they would be 10.5jj hth:Thumbsup!
Also ive got a set of fd nuts on my fc with no problems
Quote from: lee mills;702481Wheel widths are measured from inside bead to inside bead so for example if yours measures 10.5" then they would be 10.5jj hth:Thumbsup!
Also ive got a set of fd nuts on my fc with no problems
Ok, I will measure them tomorrow, they are staggered, what size are you running?
At the moment 8j fronts 9j rears with a 30 offset.
Only problem i would see is fronts fouling on the suspension strut i have 225/50/16 8j with et 40 offset all round but spaced the fronts 15mm. could hsve just used a 5mm but wouldn\'t look as good.
I see what DM motorsports is doing proper spacers, so I need to get some wheel nuts to see how much of a spacer I would need :(
Ok, I have been out and had a look at them, there is stamping on the centre which I am guessing is the pattern number, the only number I can see that might be for an ET is 35, its the same on both, but that doesn\'t matter as any rim/lip combo can be bolted to it.
With regards to the width, due to the ring of bolts I can\'t get a measurement that is flat from lip to lip, I have tried doing this:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030006.jpg)
Here is what is stamped on the centres:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030003.jpg)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030004.jpg)
Here are the front rims:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030005.jpg)
OH! Here we go:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030008.jpg)
I think thats the rear, so its a 10j rim, 17" wide, offset of 45
I will go and find the other front rim and report back lol
Yay
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030011.jpg)
Yay for extra grip :D
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030013.jpg)
Ok what they seem to do as you can fit whatever combo of lip and rim on is that the larger cast numbers that you can see if the pattern of the wheel centre, then after they bolt whatever the customer wants together they they stamp in what it is - this has been covered under quite a bit of brake dust lol but I have found out what they are:
Front: 8.5" width, 45 offset
Rears: 10" width, 45 offset
What do I need? :D its nice to actually know what I have lol
best way is to put one side on and take some measurements.
I found the measurements stamped on them, as shown above, how much of a spacer will I need? they came off an FD with no mods needed.
Quote from: m1tch;702548I found the measurements stamped on them, as shown above, how much of a spacer will I need? they came off an FD with no mods needed.
As said above best way is to fit a front and rear and then take some measurements otherwise your just guessing. The chances of someone already using the same size wheel and offset are slim so im afraid your gonna have to take the measurements for yourself.
Hmm just need some wheel nuts now lol I know I need to cut some of the rear exhaust heatshield away though.
Driftworks sell wheel nuts which use a 17mm socket which is quite handy. As for fitment, why don\'t you just put them on and see what it\'s like then go for spacers if you need/want them?
Right I have been out and managed to get the wheel nuts off (they were impact wrenched on!)
I have put the front on, it does foul the strut but only a tiny bit, the bottom part of the rim fits flat, but the top part doesn\'t as its fouling. I did full left and right lock and they just about clear the brake ducting at the front, no issues on the rear, but would need to get wheel nuts and spacers to be able to check 100%
Here are some photos:
How they fit:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030014.jpg)
Top part is only slightly out
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030015.jpg)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030016.jpg)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030017.jpg)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030018.jpg)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030020.jpg)
Look awesome though!
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030022.jpg)
coilovers or 2-3mm slip on spacers me thinks.
looks good though :)
Need to test fit the rears, was thinking of getting some 15mm spacers from DM motorsport, not going to use spiggot rings!
prob go for a 5mm on the front which would equate roughly to what i have on mine, my wheels as stated 8j and et40 will get a picture later.
Quote from: redgti;702665prob go for a 5mm on the front which would equate roughly to what i have on mine, my wheels as stated 8j and et40 will get a picture later.
Can you get proper 5mm spacers then?
danny will make you some 5mm slip ons. what do you mean by \'proper\'?
Non slip-on ones as im not happy about reducing the length of thread on the studs. Do you think I might need more than 5mm?
If you bolt on a 5mm it will only be held on by a couple of threads and the nut will stand proud of the spacers anyway. Your options are get longer stud or get a 15mm bolt on like mine think 15mm is the shallowest you can get. I will take a picture of mine to show you the fitment of it.
Thanks mate, I would rather go with a bolt on spacer that is more than needed rather than risking less studs etc, the car will be running big power next year or so, so I do rather want the wheels to stay on!
Might have to just bolt on overfenders or get my arches rolled, does anyone know how much further out rolled arches can go? I am against getting a wide bodykit for it as I want to keep it looking almost OEM.
The arches go out around as much or maybe more than over fenders. Though it won\'t look good without good fitment+ stretch. I\'ve got some origin rear fenders if you want them
Hmm on that overfenders thread I started I did like that black FC with the universal overfenders, hmmm I don\'t want a bodykit on my car though :(
Got universal ones too. Tbh overfenders and wide arches blended in still keep the car looking pretty stock. Much more so than fender flairs
Im not blending, will be poprivited on like the rear spoiler, blending and bodywork I hate as its so expensive!
I have already spent £650 on bonnet, spoiler and lip splitter fitting and painting, my car is all go, no show
Bolt on ftw
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P1010097.jpg)
Personally I\'d say you need at least a 15mm spacer (hubcentric of course) on those to clear the strut etc properly as well as the inner arch. (I\'d happily run upto a 5mm slip-on spacer depending on wheel alloy thickness, but you tell me as I\'d just going from the fact that 8.5J Et38 or so wheels caught my strut on the front with 225/50\'s on) Also, make sure the \'spokes\' on the alloys aren\'t touching the little knobble on the calipers. Most of my wheels did, till I ground it down a little. I\'ll vouch it\'s perfectly safe to do so if you don\'t go stupid and try to grind it flat!
You want 17mm hex nuts with a pitch of 12x1.25. DW do them and I got mine from priracing.
Im going to go with 15mm on the front, and 25 on the rear - the rear fouls the OEM exhaust heat shield, so can\'t get it close enough to find out how much I need lol
This seem too much?
How do they stand in comparison to the arches? Will you be able to run those tyres under the arches with those spacers and still be legal?
Rear arches can be flared, easily and neatly. Front\'s CANNOT. I\'ve done mine with a proper roller, heating the paint etc and they\'re a mess. Overfenders on the front would be a must if not.
I need to get the spacers and find out, I have no idea what I need, which is why im asking on here, I am thinking running 15s on the front as thats the smallest spacer you can get, and then 25s on the rear as that is what my mate has for sale coming off this FC soon.
Have you tried fitting the rears with the rear jacked up and measuring the gap? Surely on stock suspension, even coilocers, the wheel will drop enough to clear the heat shield. You could always just remove the heat shield. And I assume you\'ve test fitted the fronts?
Quote from: papercutout;702966You want 17mm hex nuts with a pitch of 12x1.25. DW do them and I got mine from priracing.
I\'d be very surprised if they were 1.25 pitch. AFAIK all RX7\'s use 1.5 pitch M12.
Quote from: dthebuk;703043Have you tried fitting the rears with the rear jacked up and measuring the gap? Surely on stock suspension, even coilocers, the wheel will drop enough to clear the heat shield. You could always just remove the heat shield. And I assume you\'ve test fitted the fronts?
There isn\'t much catching, might try and remove part of the shield as I run stubby rear cans now, but im worried about sharp edges!
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/DSC00667.jpg)
The space caused by the fouling heat shield:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/DSC00668.jpg)
Quote from: m1tch;702724Im not blending, will be poprivited on like the rear spoiler, blending and bodywork I hate as its so expensive!
I have already spent £650 on bonnet, spoiler and lip splitter fitting and painting, my car is all go, no show
Bolt on ftw
No more nails ! :spank
Shhhh lol a lot of the cost was all the bar coat needed to stop the paint reacting with someones bonnet :P
Quote from: SiH;703058I\'d be very surprised if they were 1.25 pitch. AFAIK all RX7\'s use 1.5 pitch M12.
Sorry yeah, 1.5 pitch!
With there was an edit button! Thanks for spotting that...
Hmm I think I am going for 15mm on the front and 25mm on the rear with some uni arches, thoughts?
Probably do better with rolled and flaired at the rear. Universal feeder flairs would be too big if your wheels arnt already flush without spacers. Even if they are flush, the arches would be over kill with those spacers
i think you should hurry up and get the wheels on instead of talking about it, i want to see them.
You may just get away with the stock arches (as long as you aren\'t running low suspension mine had 8.5" ET 42 (if memory serves) and I had the tyre exactly flush with the top of the arch - means that it will rub, if you lower the springs though)
Oh, hello chaps - it has been a while eh?
Welcome back! Yeah its been a long while. How are you doing?
Sorry for the thread hi jack.
Quote from: TiddlesRX7;703385Welcome back! Yeah its been a long while. How are you doing?
Sorry for the thread hi jack.
not bad mate, had a few life issues to sort out, the car is still at Tim\'s (and will be for some time as I have a lot of debts to clear!) was hoping to get to RS this year, but looks like I\'m double booked, so I guess it will have to be Japshow Finale! ho hum...
back on topic:
About these wheels then....
Yeah Mitch, I have 9.5J ET0 on the rear running 225/45\'s and I\'ve only rolled the arches. This isn\'t the first thread - have a look through them.
Remember the lower you go on the back, the more camber and so tuck you have. Here\'s mine:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4715994008_664dc7f475_b.jpg)
Ok guys, I am going to try and run 15s up front and 25s at the back, sadgoth, are those directly bolted on? I guess the extra 3mm is all you need lol
no the fronts had 10mm of spacer on them I had real issues clearing the front struts and also the arch liner on full lock, but with 10mm of spacer they were fine
Ok, well I am going to go with 15s up front as thats the smallest bolt ons I can get lol and 25s on the rear :)
When I get them I will post a pic up of what its like lol its going to look so illegal I think lol :D
BTW, with the 15mm - make sure you get the CORRECT short headed bolts with them. We had to cut down some normal bolt heads the other day - got them tightened up etc OK, but it\'s pretty damn sketchy tbh!
Quote from: papercutout;703603BTW, with the 15mm - make sure you get the CORRECT short headed bolts with them. We had to cut down some normal bolt heads the other day - got them tightened up etc OK, but it\'s pretty damn sketchy tbh!
How do you mean short headed bolts?
(I meant nuts, not bolts) Think about a normal nut - it\'s more than 15mm tall. If the nut is more than 15mm tall it\'ll stick out proud of the spacer, which means the wheel, when you try bolting it on, will sit on the tops of the other nuts, not the spacer.
Want me to draw a piccie? I don\'t feel I\'m explaining well.
if you buy 15mm spacers they should come with correct size/depth nuts with a taper to fit in the spacer. Only thing needed is to shorten the studs unless the wheel has recess on the back.
Quote from: papercutout;703673(I meant nuts, not bolts) Think about a normal nut - it\'s more than 15mm tall. If the nut is more than 15mm tall it\'ll stick out proud of the spacer, which means the wheel, when you try bolting it on, will sit on the tops of the other nuts, not the spacer.
Want me to draw a piccie? I don\'t feel I\'m explaining well.
Quote from: redgti;703678if you buy 15mm spacers they should come with correct size/depth nuts with a taper to fit in the spacer. Only thing needed is to shorten the studs unless the wheel has recess on the back.
well worded by redgti BUT ben, draw a pic anyway.. just for fun :p
Quote from: papercutout;703673(I meant nuts, not bolts) Think about a normal nut - it\'s more than 15mm tall. If the nut is more than 15mm tall it\'ll stick out proud of the spacer, which means the wheel, when you try bolting it on, will sit on the tops of the other nuts, not the spacer.
Want me to draw a piccie? I don\'t feel I\'m explaining well.
Its ok mate, I get you, I think the inside of the rims hub is slightly recesses to allow for spacer nuts anyway:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/P7030006.jpg)
But I will check with DM Motorsport when I order them off him, he only sells spacers down to 15mm, so im thinking he doesn\'t do 10mm spacers due to this issue with protrusion.
Those recesses are for balancing/keep weight down during manufacture, the nuts with the spacers wouldn\'t fit in there!
Saying all this, original FC wheel nuts are UBER short anyway. As you said, just check!
Ok, I have now got my 25mm spacers for the rear, still waiting on the 15mm spacers for the front from DM motorsport to arrive, plus I need some locking wheel nuts, but here are the rears fitted, it seems that 25mm spacers are spot on, they clear everything at the rear including the heatshield and shock along with the radius arm :D
Here are some photos of fitting, I think I can get away with just rolling the rear arches, the wheel/tyres are proud by about 1-2cms
Spacers:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/18072010.jpg)
How far they are out on the rear:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/18072010001.jpg)
Look good (I have lowering springs in my room, but might leave them like this for a bit)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/18072010004.jpg)
Its going well:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/18072010003.jpg)
Where did the centres go? :D
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/18072010006.jpg)
530mms of rubber on the rear, should be ok for grip I think :)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/18072010007.jpg)
Good work then mate! Yeah, the arches will roll that distance easy, mine have gone about an inch either side.
Actually, I\'d lower the car before you have them rolled - wheels tuck a significant amount on these, I am uber low and have a reasonable amount of camber at the back now! The only thing you might want done is the inner lip folding flat with a roller, no flare at all.
As for grip - hell yeah, my car struggles to spin up 225/45\'s so you\'ll be VERY \'lucky\' to get wheelspin :D
Ah ok :) hmm well I have a set of -40s in my room, how much will they tuck? I don\'t know when I will/if I will be lowering them as the OEM suspension is good for drag launches and stuff. Plus I have a front splitter that might detach itself from the car like the original one did (Found screws and plastic shards from when I got the car lol)
My car spun up eagle F1s on the OEM 205s in 2rd in the dry...need more rubber on the rear for the power increase next year :)
To be fair, if you want to keep it set up for drag racing then keep stock height to maximise squat. Either a slight flare or some universal bolt on arches would be good to go.
It\'d be nice to see it at a \'proper\' ride height, but it\'d not help you for launches.
If I fit a stock TII front splitter on my car it\'s 3 fingers from the road :D
How much more would it tuck on -40s?
I don\'t think it\'ll be enough, but only way to find out is to try.
Quote from: papercutout;705409I don\'t think it\'ll be enough, but only way to find out is to try.
What im worried about is getting the arches rolled to fit the rims as is, then decide to drop the car slightly meaning that the arches then don\'t line up with the wheels :(
Put the 40mm drop springs on, see if they need rolling, if so, roll them, and you know it\'ll be fine if/when you drop it, or if you raise it again?
*sigh* more work lol I am guessing it is illegal to drive the car as it is now? I don\'t know what the fronts will be like as the spacers havn\'t arrived for those yet.
I drove my car with more poke than that on the front until I got camber adjustable coilovers without being pulled. But yes, it is illegal - the tread needs to be covered, but not the sidewall to be legal.
I\'d try the springs, you can hope! And it\'ll not like you could fit a family between the arch and tyre any more!
40 mm won\'t tuck. You\'ve got loads of space. Try putting a ruller between the wheel and the arch!
Shall I just get my arches rolled as they are now, then maybe fit the springs at some point in the future?
When we talk about tucking, 40mm obviously won\'t drop it that much, but we (I) meant that 40mm would possibly give it enough camber to \'tuck\' the tyre under the arch rather than sticking out.
Get some bolt on universal arches IMO. Will look better.
If the gap is less than 60 at the moment get some arches/flair them. If it\'s more there\'s no need. Simples
So is everyone voting for rolling the arches then? not sure what the fronts will be like though, need to get those spacers and get them fitted to find out!
Fit the springs and see what you need?
Yeah, just get them done - if the fronts are too wide to fit under the arches, get skinnier tyres - you\'ll be drag racing anyway!
Don\'t try to roll the fronts, it\'s a no-go thing. I tried :p
I am going to have to get the arches rolled or something, the arch ends a few cms from the edge of the tyre, on a proper drag launch all of that space will be taken up and the arch will hit/cut the tyre, this is before fitting -40 springs!
How can I get round this? Shall I get the arches rolled? Can you not roll front arches?
Ignore the fronts till you have the spacers on and can judge correctly. But...
You CAN roll the fronts, but it looks poo, they\'re uber hard to roll neatly, and you (thanks to the crease line 1" from arch lip) end up with something that sticks out almost horizontal!
If you need wider fronts and are prepared to go function over form, get them done a little, be prepared for flakey paint etc though.
As for the rear, they roll fantastically. Do it. Stop asking us, I can post pics of my rolled arches (in fact, I think I have) and they\'re great, so don\'t worry - and I\'ve got a much wider roll than you will need.
Subtle mods :) my car is all go and no show btw
(http://www.bosozokustyle.com/sites/default/files/bosozoku-style-rx7-fc-1-thumbnail.jpg)
Right, my front spacers arrived today (thanks DM Motorsport!) they are very nice and have the correct shorter wheel nuts for clearance, just gone out and fitted one side, unfortunatly I need wider ones for the front, there is basically no clearance on the OEM springs it seems :(
The spacers I got where 15mm ones, so it looks like I need 20s? Maybe I should got for some 25s like the rears?
*sigh* im never going to have a nice set or rims at this rate :(
Is it the wheel itself or the tyre catching?
Also, looking at it with the wheel fitted as best poss, how much do you think it needs moving out?
If you\'re drag racing and it\'s the tyres that catch, get skinnier tyres. You can still have plenty of grip with a 205-225.
I have refitted my rear OEM 205s on the front as the tyres are better (F1s) so at least its safe to drive, the tyres stick out about 1cm or so at the front with those spacers, I would say an extra 5 mm would clear the springs, but extra 10 for safety I think :(
tape measure
The tyres clear the front springs by 1-2mm, thats not really safe lol
I\'d run a 5mm slip on happily if I were you, even thinner if you can find them - 5mm of clearance between spring and tyre is pretty safe, you\'d have to have either flat tyres or MAJOR deformation (outside tolerances of a tyre expanditure) to touch then. (and if you\'re sensible doing wheel nuts up, you\'ll never have to worry about other eventualities)
I know it is your life, but a slip on upto 5mm, as long as the studs fitted to the spacers are fairly long, is perfectly safe. Man-up :D
Piccies from above to judge legality atm please. My legal might not be the same as yours, but I know what I can get away with :p