Hi,
Me and a friend were talking last night about my car and the fact that I would like more power by doing some kind of porting. I cannot afford to get this done professionally, so he suggested getting a 2nd hand engine and doing it myself.
My question is, what sort of costs would be incurred when rebuilding? Apart from getting the porting done (not sure what to go for yet), should I be looking to replace seals etc whilst doing this?
Does anyone know of a good manual for the 13b?
I am by no means proficient in mechanics, but I have to start some where, and my friend is a motorsport mechanic by trade who has rebuilt quite a few cars before. He has said that he will lend me a hand (the main reason I am contemplating this).
I may have found a runnning EGI engine for sale already, so am seriously considering doing this (much to wifes disgust :) ).
Thanks for any help
Mark
It will all depend on the wear of the engine internals.
I suggest you get hold of a copy of the workshop manual as this has all of the tolerances listed.
Items that will have to be replaced include:
Water seals
Oil seals
and depending on wear:
Apex seals & springs
Corner seals & springs
Side seals & springs (on the N/A engines these seem to last quite well)
Plates may need grinding
Front and rear housings
Also, bear in mind you will probably be stripping another EGi engine, therefore its going to have 6 ports - the postioning of the 5th and 6th port limits what can be done on the main iron without breaching the water jacket.
Have fun with it, and make sure you post lots of pics!
:wave
Thanks for the info Brett. I will start looking for a manual and other info. So basically am I limited to the size of the port due to the 5th and 6th port. Apologies for what may seem a stupid question, but I pretty clueless at present :(
Mark
still not tempted to go down the TII route?
I admire your bravery to take this leap :)
Quote from: L18M;700454still not tempted to go down the TII route?
I admire your bravery to take this leap :)
I was initially thinking of that route, but do kind of prefer the thought of a higher powered NA for the FC. I don\'t really want to have a turbo car again, until I eventually buy my Supra TT back off its current owner :).
The engine I have found is supposedly off an F reg car that has only done 36k. The car had a crash on the offside front and was stored for years by an old guy. He then scrapped the car.
Anyway the yard is asking for £300 for the engine and £150 for the gearbox. To me this sounds a bit too much for an EGI engine and box.
Any thoughts as to a good price for these?
As for bravery, it\'s more like a bit of stupidity and the fact that I really would like a proper project. That and the fact that I actually seem to be getting bored with computer games at the minute.
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark
That seems on the money - assuming the engine is good!
Quote from: Brett;700481That seems on the money - assuming the engine is good!
Cheers Brett. I think I will have to have a think about this, as there isn\'t much chance of me checking it over as it\'s up in Scotland somewhere :(
Mark
there are workshop manuals on teamfc3s.org
Whats the car going to be used for? I\'d love a ported egi for a daily, but i\'m under the impression there is little to now torque increase to be gained just from porting. It wont make it much easier to skid.
anyhu good luck!!
Quote from: dthebuk;700768there are workshop manuals on teamfc3s.org
Whats the car going to be used for? I\'d love a ported egi for a daily, but i\'m under the impression there is little to now torque increase to be gained just from porting. It wont make it much easier to skid.
anyhu good luck!!
Cheers for the link. My EGI is purely for track use and some fun whenever else I get a chance. It was also bought as something to start to learn more about mechanics with.
Not really interested in drifting to be honest.
I have been trying to decide what porting I would have done over the last few days, as im not sure if I want to go as extreme as a PP. So I think if I did do it, might either go for a large street port or more likely some kind of bridge port.
Early days yet anyway, as there is so much I need to research before I even consider these things :)
Thanks again
Mark
fyi, I bought a running T2 engine and gearbox and loom and prop for £450 from a guy breaking his car
Quote from: Archbish;700796fyi, I bought a running T2 engine and gearbox and loom and prop for £450 from a guy breaking his car
Cheers for the info mate :)
Mark
if its track and you porting you should go all out rather than half hearted.
but keep in mind most tracks have noise limits so you would have to pay attention to that also.
ps, i got a tii engine, about 50k miles on rebuild for £250. turned out the housings were a bit rubbish after pulling it apart so not really useable. only good thing was e-shaft and rotors that were milled to 3mm (from stock 2mm) to accept 3mm apex tips.
I know what your saying Liam, but I do also enjoy driving it at weekend so figure that a bridge port might be a good comprimise. Noise wise, is there much difference between PP and bridge?
Thanks
Mark
Quote from: L18M;700801if its track and you porting you should go all out rather than half hearted.
but keep in mind most tracks have noise limits so you would have to pay attention to that also.
ps, i got a tii engine, about 50k miles on rebuild for £250. turned out the housings were a bit rubbish after pulling it apart so not really useable. only good thing was e-shaft and rotors that were milled to 3mm (from stock 2mm) to accept 3mm apex tips.
PP sounds.. wait for it..
AWESOME!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U42GmfeFHy0
LMAO, that really does sound awesome :)
But could I keep the noise levels down enough, so that I could enjoy a few track days a year. Mallory will be one so 105DB and then one or 2 others like Cadwell I reckon.
Mark
Quote from: L18M;700805PP sounds.. wait for it..
AWESOME!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U42GmfeFHy0
That vid just made my 21 month old son smile and say "noisey, Daddys pap pap"
Think he might be a rotorhead :)
Quote from: TiddlesRX7;700854That vid just made my 21 month old son smile and say "noisey, Daddys pap pap"
Think he might be a rotorhead :)
Lol, good boy!
My 23 month old has only just strung 2 words together (daddy car), so yours is doing well :)
Mark
N/a rotaries are rediculous. Had 2decent silencers on mine and it made my ears bleed! Have you considered fueling? I\'m under the impression you can run a street port on stock components. Bridge port or pp may require an aftermarket ecu(or carbs), pump and injectors. Though the TII stuff will take 300 bhp which would be around the max a pp 2 rotor will put out
Quote from: dthebuk;700938N/a rotaries are rediculous. Had 2decent silencers on mine and it made my ears bleed! Have you considered fueling? I\'m under the impression you can run a street port on stock components. Bridge port or pp may require an aftermarket ecu(or carbs), pump and injectors. Though the TII stuff will take 300 bhp which would be around the max a pp 2 rotor will put out
The sound thing might put me off going all out as it would be pointless if I could not use the car on the track. As for ECU etc, I have started to consider the costs of these requirements.
I keep thinking I should just buy a TT (like the red one for sale that looks liek it needs a rebuild). Financially it would make a lot more sense. I will have to have a good hard think about whether to go expensive NA or cheaper TII.
Mark
this thread might come in handy and inspire you
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61960
104 db at 2/3 revs. so is possible :)
Quote from: MrHanky;700976I keep thinking I should just buy a TT (like the red one for sale that looks liek it needs a rebuild). Financially it would make a lot more sense. I will have to have a good hard think about whether to go expensive NA or cheaper TII.
Mark
depends how far what you want to take it really and your budget. Bang for buck, there\'s not a lot that\'ll beat a TII. You could always just run a street ported n/a and spend more money on weight loss. If you speak to stavfc on here or driftworks he might be able to give you an idea. His fc is around 1000kg i belive, maybe a bit more, with a full cage in it. He\'s didtched to pop up headlights and is running a rear lexan hatch etc
Cheers for the input guys. My head is spinning at the minute as im really not sure what to go for. To be honest if I could get hold of £800 right now, I would be seriously tempted by monterx7\'s TII, as it does look like a very clean car. But on the flipside a ported NA would be cool. It just costs a bit more to do.
Mark
wallet said TII but heart sais PP :p
this might help with the weight loss.
is interesting read.
http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/how-fat-is-your-car?imageNo=7
Lol Liam, thats pretty much how I feel.
That TG piece was interesting but is making a mockery of my current weight loss program. Essentially its not worth doing, according to that....... cheers Liam......... walks away all dispondant ;)
Quote from: L18M;700995wallet said TII but heart sais PP :p
this might help with the weight loss.
is interesting read.
http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/how-fat-is-your-car?imageNo=7
lol, no not no point, just make sure the car is set up properly for it.
i think camber, ride height would make a difference as the weight would shift from stock f/r 51/49 to stripped out 55/45 as most parts taken out would be carpets etc from centre to rear of the car, unless you take out some stuff form the engine bay to balance out the 50kg or so taken out the back.
maybe a bit more downforce on the rear required to compensate for the loss of weight?
clive would be a good man to talk to given his racing exp and also tonyc i think it was on here.
also casey / stacy on here races so might be able to help on the handling front?
Thanks again Liam. If only I knew someone who was selling coilovers ;)
Im at Finmere tomorrow (unless wife goes into labour between now and then) so will get my first real chance to see how it handles :)
Mark
lol, hope it all goes well.
heres another for reason to go PP n/a. can run 95 ron happily so save you money on petrol :p
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65197
Quote from: L18M;701121lol, hope it all goes well.
heres another for reason to go PP n/a. can run 95 ron happily so save you money on petrol :p
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65197
lol, I have seen that thread already. Suddenly the proposition of a PP engine seems like an economical and sensible thing to do :D
Just resurrecting this thread, seeing as I now have a spare engine to play with :)
Just reading as much as possible about everything to do with rebuilds, before I start pulling my old EGI apart.
One question I have is to do with ECU\'s etc.
Now I am lead to believe that if I went for a street port then I could carry on using the stock setup, but once above this I need to factor in a few other things like ECU\'s. But I also noticed having just been looking around the Hayward site that Carl uses carbs a fair bit.
So my question is what are the pros and cons for each of these methods?
Thanks
Mark
By a duff turbo motor and use the plates from it - the 6 port plates are not really great to port unless its just a clean up which if you are going to the trouble anyway, not worth it. Get them bridge ported and get a second hand carb set up.
No ECU hassles then, driveability is reduced a bit, as if fuel economy but peak power and the all important fun factor should be the same!
Quote from: RamoNZ;727994By a duff turbo motor and use the plates from it - the 6 port plates are not really great to port unless its just a clean up which if you are going to the trouble anyway, not worth it. Get them bridge ported and get a second hand carb set up.
No ECU hassles then, driveability is reduced a bit, as if fuel economy but peak power and the all important fun factor should be the same!
Thanks for the advice. Already started looking at carb options. So far it is sounding like a good option.
Thanks again
Mark
if you need end plates then i have a pair (front and back) off a tii.
engine was rebuilt about 14k miles ago before being taken apart and turned into my frankenstein engine currently in the car / rebuilt again.
let me know if they of interest to you. :)
Hi Liam,
If it is recommended using the TII plates then I am interested. Let me know how much you want for them :)
Thanks
Mark
Quote from: L18M;728069if you need end plates then i have a pair (front and back) off a tii.
engine was rebuilt about 14k miles ago before being taken apart and turned into my frankenstein engine currently in the car / rebuilt again.
let me know if they of interest to you. :)