Got the new engine in but as I didn\'t take it out will be asking for help regards what goes where.
To start I could do with a pic of all the belt arrangement and routes.
I\'ve put a pic up of the next problem being what connects to what.
They\'re numbered to help explain.
Thanks
John
Here goes:
A) - Can\'t really see in that pic - so not sure
B) - that upright pipe from the turbo has 2 outlets - the angled one connects to the BAC valve on the side of the upper inlet manifold - the other pipe connects to either a BOV or to the recirc valve (in your pic the recirc is just under the letter E)
C) - is the MAP sensor - it needs to see one of the nipples on the manifold side of the throttle body. There is a suitable nipple on the Air Control Valve - just under the bac valve if you still have it fitted, or there is a small metal nipple coming from the bottom of the upper inlet manifold - under the BAC.
D) - is the inlet for the air pump - it\'s normally fed from a small hose coming from the airbox - but it can just have a breather filter on it.
E) - all looks a bit weird around there - need to get a close up of the side of your engine to see what you\'ve got fitted - is the air control valve still on the car - or is it just a blanking plate ?
See pic below - will give you an idea of where it comes from (it\'s the larger sloping shape with the 2 holes - that\'s where the air control valve goes or a blanking plate.
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46421&d=1267794587
E goes onto B
Pretty sure A should go onto C :)
Better still would be to have a look at another one.
Anyone got a T11 in the Midlands, close to the NEC would be good.
I\'d take a photo of mine but I\'ve removed most of that lot!
Quote from: johnf;696424Better still would be to have a look at another one.
Anyone got a T11 in the Midlands, close to the NEC would be good.
Your induction going into the turbo doesn\'t look like a standard pipe, so the recirc valve, that\'s on the pipe marked E) I think, wont really fit anymore. You probably want a Blow Off Valve instead - going onto that pipe sticking out at B)
Also, if the Air Control Valve has been taken off - large blanking plate over the right hand side of the lower inlet manifold - then the airpump isn\'t really going to do anything anymore can could be taken off.
Found this piccy over on rx7club.com :
John, theres some pics here that might help:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=145215#post145215
Right - couple more questions.
What goes on the fitting in the pic and where does the pipe go to.
The first pic is on the car the second is the same but taken from a spare part.
Next - I don\'t seem to have a lamba sensor in my box of bits, looking on ebay I can buy 2-3-4 wire universal any advice on what I need
Thanks
John
Questions in reverse order:
You want a 1 wire lambda sensor if it\'s the stock narrow band one - I got one for about £17 said it was Mazda compatible - you\'ll have to crimp an end on it, but both Mitch and I have used these with no issues.
As for the other question - where does that pipe go - it should go through a long rubber hose along the side of the engine bay, and into a mini silencer behind the headlight on the drivers side (white thing). It also passes through an odd looking black plastic valve - the so called \'anti moo\' valve ;)
This is for the relief air from the air control valve - basically it just exhausts fresh air from the airpump when it isn\'t being fed into the cat\'s or exhaust ports. It could vent to air - but it will be noisy !
This link explains how to remove all that stuff - but is really good for telling you what goes where and what it looks like:
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/pumpACV.htm
Dave.
That\'s the pipe I was on about earlier when on the phone - I said Prof would know :D
As I was saying - if you remove the air pump gubbins, you won\'t have/need it.
Must admit I\'m starting to think I won\'t be able to sort all this out and get it running, so
many loose ends, plugs, wires etc.
If there\'s anyone local who could help me finish this I\'m sure I can negotiate a day rate.
John
Dave
Thanks for the info and link, the first part of the link describes how to remove the air pump.
Silly question but why remove the air pump, is it not there for a purpose?
I\'m looking for the quickest easiest way to get me on the road which would appear to be going stock, would you agree.
However as I progress I find I\'m a few bits missing.
I haven\'t got this for a start.
The air pump is there for a reason - you\'re right :)
It\'s part of the secondary air system that\'s basically been designed to let the car pass the emissions tests - particularly the more stringent american tests.
With no cat in the exhaust, but retaining the air pump and it\'s associated valves and solenoids, the emissions will be around the 0.4 % mark. Take the air pump off, and this will increase 10 fold - meaning the car is much harder to get through the no cat test on the emissions (3.5% CO max allowed), but not impossible. A warmed car, with appropriate fuel cut\'s in the idle part of the map, and new plugs will normally pass - just.
As for that part, I don\'t have mine anymore - the silencer canister was broken when someone clipped my front drivers side - so I never bothered to refit it. However, I would think there are plenty kicking about as people have more often than not removed them.
I\'ve got solenoids, I think a complete vacuum rack, and various other bits, if you are missing any of them - let me know what you are short and I will see what I\'ve got. You can have them for the price of the postage.
Dave.
I removed mine. I have that pipe kicking about if you need it John. I would say though you may aswell remove the airpump and associated gubbins though. It does free up a lot of room and simplifies the engine bay alot.
Did the air pump and associated bits removal today.
Made the blanking plate and blocked off the three small air pipes.
I think we may try to start it tomorrow..............................................
Linked up the throttle cable but what\'s the other similar looking cable that originates from a box by the front wing and seems to have a pipe going inside the front wing?
John
.
John, that other cable is the Cruise Control - car will be fine without it - I\'ve never used mine, but it\'s still fitted.
Got any piccies of the air pump delete? I\'m planning on doing mine, just not got round to it yet.
I didn\'t take any pics, however I did have the advantage of a spare manifold so I could
make the blanking plate before I started.
It also helped finding where the bolts are as the last one is a little difficult to locate.
I could send you a paper template for the plate if that helps.
I used 2.5mm ally.
John
.
After several half days of fumbling our way through the engine install
we had nothing left to do except turn the key and..........................it runs.
Must admit I was surprised.
There are some issues I\'m looking for help and advice on, although I don\'t think
they\'re anything major.
Whilst under the car connecting up the exhaust I found 4 bolt holes, two
either side of the car just in front of the gearbox and the thread inside looked
shiny suggesting there may have been a cross member or brace fitted.
I put a couple of pics taken from underneath and I wonder if anyone can tell if
there is something \'not there\'.
I\'m also getting the dash light that I\'m not getting any charge from the
alternator. I think this may be that we haven\'t plugged something in rather
than the alternator packed up.
Looking for unplugged things I found the one in pic three - any ideas where
that goes or what it does?
Anyway all in all a good day - after 8 months of ownership it ran.
Far too loud but I\'ll sort that later.
John
Wahey, good work mate! Glad it\'s \'sorted\' now! Just needs to be on the road and MOT\'d ASAP!
Hi John - Excellent news !!
Looks like you are missing the lower cross brace - there is a brace - held in by 4 bolts each side - close to the where the A frame rear suspension joins the chasis. Looks a bit like a stretched iron butterfly.
It\'s there for stiffennig the chassis.
That connector looks like the oil reservoir level sensor - it should come from the side of the sump and joins the loom down there somewhere.
Well done you for getting it going :)
As for the alternator - there\'s a 2 pin connector - little black one, that comes from a larger grey connector on the back of the alternator - make sure that\'s firmly plugged together, as well as the grey one on the alternator.
QuoteLooks like you are missing the lower cross brace - there is a brace - held in by 4 bolts each side - close to the where the A frame rear suspension joins the chasis. Looks a bit like a stretched iron butterfly.
Do I need to source one?
No, but they\'re a good way of stiffening the chassis up, especially on a cab - so I would do so if I was you.
So - someone must have one gathering dust somewhere.
Get back to me if you have one for sale.
.
I may have one. Will have a look on saturday when Im cleaning out the garage.
Oh and well done getting her running again.
Good man
Thanks
Sorting out the few remaining issues and can someone tell me where the oil pressure gauge connection plug is in the engine bay.
I\'m showing no oil pressure and expect that it\'s some plug/connection I\'ve missed.
Hope to be thinking of MOT next week.
Thanks
.
Oil pressure gauge is a single connector that slides on sideways to the oil pressure sender - big round thing on the side of the engine under the oil filter pedestal. The connector does slip off ever so easily - you should find it in that general area.
Had a look today mate. I couldn\'t find the one I thought I had. I must have scrapped it with the car sorry.
I\'m still trying to find the oil pressure connector, perhaps these pics could help tell me where I should be looking.
I also have a few unconnected plugs that I can\'t find a home for, circled white, and a connected plug that I don\'t know what it does.
Really need to sort out the oil pressure, just in case I don\'t have any.
Is the circle in the last pic the oil pressure connector I\'m looking for.
You must remember I\'ve fitted the engine without knowing a great deal.
I think it\'s the one on the left in the photo called bulk, but I can\'t expand the photo\'s to a larger size to be sure.
Prof, If you click on the image and bring it to its own page and then hold Ctrl and wheel forward you will zoom in
Its one of those areas I just can\'t picture in my head :( Which is daft cos I\'ve done it a dozen times!
Anyone got an engine bay scematic they can post up?
Quote from: sidewaysted;700878Prof, If you click on the image and bring it to its own page and then hold Ctrl and wheel forward you will zoom in
I just get the dead picture icon - stupid browser won\'t let me see it :(
John,
I\'ll fill in what I know.
1st pic : The 2 green connectors are the test connector (1 pin) and the check and monitor lights (6 pin) - these are what\'s used to read off the ecu error codes, and also the 1 pin check connector is used when setting timing. The small 4 pin connector in that photo is I think for the headlight washer motor and low fluid indicator.
2nd pic : that\'s the connector for the CAS sensor which is the round thing that replaces the distributor for these engines - it provides the timing signals.
3rd pic: I think the left connector is the oil pressure sender - if it\'s got a slit down the side it definitely is - it slides on sideways. The other connector is proably either the knock sensor or should be connected to a supressor cap - there are a couple in the engine bay around there.
4th pic: the thing you\'ve ringed is the knock sensor - it connects to the loom with a round connector on my car - the connector is usually under the intercooler.
Hope that helps
Thanks guys I really appreciate your input.
I\'ll investigate some more tomorrow.
Thanks Prof
Quote3rd pic: I think the left connector is the oil pressure sender
That solved the problem - I have an oil pressure reading.
Time to blow the tyres up and go for the MOT
QuoteProf, If you click on the image and bring it to its own page and then hold Ctrl and wheel forward you will zoom in
Didn\'t know this but..........................
If you do this remember it can screw your screen text size up when you go back to the web page.
Took me ages to realise - you have to hold \'ctrl\' and press the + or - to get it back to how it was.
John
Well as it\'s the first time the T11 has moved under it\'s own power since last October I\'ve just got to put a pic up.
:cheers
:burnout
Fine looking car you have there John.
Did it pass the MOT? let me know if you still want the brace and I will get that posted otherwise it may be a while til I am home next.
QuoteFine looking car you have there John
Well it guess it brings back memories. Will need quite a bit of tlc to get it back to how you had it but I\'ll get there.
I will take the brace, not in any rush though how long will you be away for?
Not taken it for the mot yet.
Need to quieten if it down some, far too loud for me.
.
I am promoted and posted to RAF Lyneham down in Wiltshire but family staying in Norfolk so will travel everyother weekend home dependent upon shifts. Just let me know which shows/events you might be going to and I can bring it then. Dont mind waiting til RS, It\'ll have your name on it. That car did have one though when it was sold, quite a big thing to misplace.
I have no spare wheel am I right in thinking it would have been full size and kept behind the
seats under the shelf as there doesn\'t seem space in the boot.
.
Its a space saver John and is indeed kept under that shelf. I have a spare you can have for free if I can find it. What else is missing on that car?
best wat to quiet it down is to put a good mid box in,bit cheaper and only the one box to weld in.
Thanks Pete - will take you up on the wheel if you can find it.
Was thinking of a mid pipe.
Good luck with the car sale - love it.
.
.
I have a midbox you could weld in - 2.5" pipe, not 3" though. I also have a spacesaver if you\'re on the way past!
QuoteI have a midbox you could weld in - 2.5" pipe, not 3" though. I also have a spacesaver if you\'re on the way past!
Looks like I have the option of two space saver wheels thanks to both of you.
Pete, Oxford is easier for me to get to so I\'ll probably go for that sorry to mess you about.
Getting down to the last few bits to sort out.
Next is to find out why the hand brake light stays on, guess there is a switch under the handbrake.
Also the passenger mirror case is a bit loose, are these easy to remove and examine?
.
Could someone look at the pic and tell me if this connection is correct.
It\'s been suggested that this looks wrong.
Thanks
And on the other side of the engine, plugs side I\'ve got these two blanked off.
What should these do?
Thanks
Just drop me a text if you want to pop past sometime btw fella. I\'d be happy to have a look at the handbrake too if you want - mine works fine!
Quote from: johnf;703591Could someone look at the pic and tell me if this connection is correct.
It\'s been suggested that this looks wrong.
Thanks
John - does that black vacuum pipe only go into the round thing, or does it tee off into the engine ? I can\'t really see as you\'ve hidden it with a yellow arrow ;)
And the other side of the engine - I think those to blank off pipes join together in a tee and go into a \'vacuum capacitor\' - sort of odd box on the side of the shock tower. I\'ve seen people run with and without it with no issues.
Thanks
The handbrake light seems to have sorted itself out.
Did you say you had a space saver wheel going?
If you have I\'ll be taking the car down to Carl\'s next Thursday, coming through Oxford.
John
I\'ve attempted to do a drawing of where thing go.
I hope it\'s clear enough to tell if I have things wrong.
Thanks
That looks fine to me John. :yes
Shame - I was sort of hoping I had it wrong.
.
I\'m popping to CV77EA for a wedding tomorrow, will be around there midday or so. Still got my number?
Hi
That\'s only about 8 miles from me so if you could pop out of the wedding I\'ll come over.
No haven\'t got your number, mine is
07831 395046
Thanks
John
Any chance of some photos of the car so I can start enquiries as to what that rear splitter is mate?
And I don\'t know if you got my text - but that exhaust is irritatingly loud, and I LIKE loud cars, definitely have a mid box put in! (alternatively part ex with me and I\'ll do it :p)
When we were driving back, did you plant the throttle at all? What RPM did you hit?
Hi
Yes got your text was going to get back to you today.
Didn\'t plant my foot, have done before and nothing happens.
If I get up to a cruising speed it does get a lot quieter.
As for the rear end you\'d need to ask Pete.
Another angle
Boot spoiler is off a BMW E45 (I think) and the bodykit is Eichbach, ultra rare and only a few like it.
The exhaust is a Japspeed stainless system and cost around £500,(full system inc downpipe) I think there is a midbox but its not much. maybe after 2-3 years of use its now coming alive.
Think there is a full kit for sale on here at the moment including the ultra rare sleek spoiler.
The Mariah one?
Nah, would much rather a rear diffuser like John has. I guess that it\'ll not happen considering rarity and I doubt John would want to remove it and sell it...
Pete it\'s definitely \'come alive\', I like cars loud, and it just sounded silly when cruising - which I find odd for such a prestigious manufacturer! I bet it\'d sound good on boost though!
Well if it isn\'t quieter after the boost issues are sorted I won\'t be keeping it, especially after this..............
QuoteJapspeed stainless system and cost around £500
Are stock systems still available new?
And you\'re right I won\'t be taking any of the kit off - sorry
Don\'t go stock, trust me - much more restrictive. My 2.5" system with a midbox in would keep you happy (heck, it\'d probably keep you happy as it is - it kinda whistles and sounds lovely)
John just stick a good mid box in, to go back to a stock system would be crazy as most
2nd hand ones are rotten and you really dont want to ask how much a new system costs, far more than the japspeed one.
Is it the volume, or resonance thats an issue John?
Sorry can\'t hear - gone deaf.
It\'s just sooooooooooooo loud.
Taking it to Carl\'s on Friday to see if we can sort the boost out, I\'ll see what he thinks.
Hi john,
good to see progress with your car :)
i have a pair of re amemiya back boxes if they of any use to you?
they 3" pipe and the back box is about the size of stock so shouldn\'t be too loud and quieter than your current setup.
let me know if they of use to you.
Thanks
I\'ll see how Fridays goes and get back to you - how much?
I dread to ask but is there any sign of you getting your car back yet?
.
How does £110 sound for the exhaust?
car, well i got an email yesterday saying it should all be \'buttoned down tomorrow\' and that he would call.
but talk is cheap.
/\\ Got any pics /\\
has a 3" tip so wont act like a megaphone unlike some with bigger tips.
There is a slight flat spot in the tip in the pic (upper left \'corner\'). but can easily be hammered out.
thats the only pics i got the other side is same condition :)
can take more pics if you want when im back home for the weekend.
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Bit of an update
Spent Friday at Hayward and as usual the guys were great.
Turns out my turbo was shot, they sorted me a replacement form their \'Aladin\'s Cave\' of parts and fitted that.
BOOST
Overheated a little and it was getting late, 6:30, as there wasn\'t any time left in the day I\'ve left it with them.
They may even get chance to see about the noise level as well.
Won\'t be long now.
I know it\'s been said many times but I\'ll say it again, what a superb team Carl and his guys are.
John
Frustrating, but certainly explains the problem! Should be MUCH more fun shortly then!