hi everyone
im new to the whole rotary thing
iv been told i need to re-tip the rotors every few thousand miles is this right??
can anyone tell me how frequent and how much it will cost roughly??
thanks
total load of rubbish mate some people are full of crap lol, engines usually require a rebuild roughly every 60,000 miles, thas just as a rough guide, all depends how its looked after, mods etc ive seen one do nearly 90,000 before a rebuild
Then when a rebuild needs doing it will cost around 2-4k for a full rebuild depending on where u take it
ok mate thats great thanks mate
its had a recent engine rebuild 15k ago
do i have to rebuild the engine every 60k-90k?
well the average is around 60k, all depends how you treat it, how its modded etc, could last 2 miles or 80k miles all down to the individual car
its best to read up on service intervals, oil needs changing every 3k
thanks mate il look into it
thanks again
Quote from: RX7-ALEX;695958ok mate thats great thanks mate
its had a recent engine rebuild 15k ago
do i have to rebuild the engine every 60k-90k?
Id be very very happy if i got 15k out of a rebuilt engine but ive been unlucky like many others. if yours lasts another 45k - 75k you will have spent an awful lot of cash on petrol (enough for a few rebuilds) you will generally rebuild the engine when it goes pop, its hard to pre empt one going and as the post above an engine can last 2 miles (if something isnt right with your ancilliaries, electrics etc)
I don\'t think that\'s fair at all. The problem is people rebuild the engines and don\'t address any other problems, then they die. A rebuilt engine could be the best ever made, but if you put it in a car with sub standard ancilliaries (water pump, radiator full of crap, blocked fuel filter, just plain bad tuning, etc) then you can kill it very quickly. People try to do it on the cheap, and that\'s where tuff goes wrong, same as it would with any engine.
If a rebuilt engine only lasted 15k I\'d be very unhappy.
Your engine could pop today if you get bad fuel or corner hard under WOT or an ancillary fails no matter if youd spent 1k or 4k on your rebuild. you just cant pre empt it.
No, but my point is that you can take a lot of steps to prevent it.
Swirl pots, safer mapping, wi, new filters, plug leads etc. These are all things that people often pay no heed to, that for the sake of a few hundred, give you a huge safety margin.
I\'m a firm beleiver that when you renew an engine, you should check that every surrounding component is up to the job. If in doubt, replace.
i have heard of people spending thousands on a rebuild, big turbo, fuel system blah blah blah to then blow there engine due to a dodgy fuel filter
what about the new one, broken spark plug end seems to be doing the rounds at the moment. heard 2 stories of this lately.
How lucky have you been then SIH?
There having been problems with the spark plug ends snapping off though. Denso plugs have been known to lose the ends of their tips. Hence most people use the HKS versions.
As for having to re-tip the rotors every 1000 miles....thats almost as bad as having to replace the head gaskets!
i had issues with my VTEC not kicking in the other day :Giggle
Insert your Generic rotary engine misconception pun here...
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;696064Insert your Generic rotary engine misconception pun here...
"Rebuild at 60k!"
Uh...wait... :p
Ian.
1) Engine rebuilt in japan sadly no receipt of this but i was informed by the owner the engine has only 10,000km on it. love that line
2) Any company that says "motorsport is our passion"... lmao
3) ALL our engines come with a warranty
4) top uk tuner "theres something wrong with it, even the receptionist said"
5) same top uk tuner "it needs going over with a dose of salts, let me wave my magic wand at it"
6) same top uk tuner "Its about to blow up it needs a remap"..after 300 quid remap.."its about to blow up it needs a full uprated fuel system but its now making more power."
7) same top uk tuner when questioned on the integrity of the quality of his advice "I am still learning everyday"
anyone got any others
get the flava?
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;6960691) Engine rebuilt in japan sadly no receipt of this but i was informed by the owner the engine has only 10,000km on it. love that line
2) Any company that says "motorsport is our passion"... lmao
3) ALL our engines come with a warranty
4) top uk tuner "theres something wrong with it, even the receptionist said"
5) same top uk tuner "it needs going over with a dose of salts, let me wave my magic wand at it"
6) same top uk tuner "Its about to blow up it needs a remap"..after 300 quid remap.."its about to blow up it needs a full uprated fuel system but its now making more power."
7) same top uk tuner when questioned on the integrity of the quality of his advice "I am still learning everyday"
anyone got any others
get the flava?
got those sound familiar!!
Bitter much Dr S? Sounds like you have had some sh!t luck - I\'d be jaded too.
Mine on the other hand, appears to have had a rebuild in Japan, and was verys trong on that. Ripped it apart for no reason, and it\'s running strong as ever!
I fear it may need more than 2 miles to prove itself though, so I could still easily beat your score. :D
Yeah bitter and twisted mate. im think im having one more go with the rx7 building the engine myself with new parts and mapping it safe. im thinking bridge port with 450fwbhp tops on strong seals new housings
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;696089Yeah bitter and twisted mate. im think im having one more go with the rx7 building the engine myself with new parts and mapping it safe. im thinking bridge port with 450fwbhp tops on strong seals new housings
If you\'re shooting 450 you I don\'t think you need to go for a bridge dude, I\'d have thought all it will do will affect your powerband/idle/economy.
My turbo knowledge extends to the grand su of about 1 turbo - the GT35r, and I know that a 1.06 hotside has just made almost bob on 450 tuned by one of our finest UK tuners.
One of Era\'s ports to match this should give you a far more driveable car than a bridge I\'d have thought?
It\'s what I\'ve done anyways :D Will tell you in 1k whenit\'s run in and mapped!
thanks fellas for all your info
im thinking to run lower boost and more retarded timing on the bridge for safety. so you think large port? i m thinking i may as well bridge it while its being done i have the scope for more power then later on. just thinking at the mo
There a few EGI non turbos that have run to about 200k miles, but remember kids:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/rotarywh6.jpg)
Make sure you look after the ancillaries and use decent fuel and fluids and you will be fine :) mines on 88k, 7.2s on the front rotor 6.9s on the rear rotor :)
Quote from: m1tch;696155There a few EGI non turbos that have run to about 200k miles, but remember kids:
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/rotarywh6.jpg)
That diagram would be wonderful except its missing the idiot who\'s maintaining/building/tuning it
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;6960691) Engine rebuilt in japan sadly no receipt of this but i was informed by the owner the engine has only 10,000km on it. love that line
2) Any company that says "motorsport is our passion"... lmao
3) ALL our engines come with a warranty
4) top uk tuner "theres something wrong with it, even the receptionist said"
5) same top uk tuner "it needs going over with a dose of salts, let me wave my magic wand at it"
6) same top uk tuner "Its about to blow up it needs a remap"..after 300 quid remap.."its about to blow up it needs a full uprated fuel system but its now making more power."
7) same top uk tuner when questioned on the integrity of the quality of his advice "I am still learning everyday"
anyone got any others
get the flava?
so then DR SCHNITZEL which top uk tuner are you talking about?
Well, Lindop is obviously one. And I\'ve barely heard a good word about them. Could just be hearsay though.
Im not going to single anyone out. Its all bad in my experience.
All I will say is i have had experience with 5 of the say top 10-15 tuning/sales companies. I have not been happy with ANY of them. Poor advice, shoddy workmanship, dishonesty, ruthless sales spiel etc, getting sold things as mint when they are not, getting promised partial refunds then not, getting sold an engine thats was on its last legs "sold as high compression" gettig sold an engine that i later found out was used in a "courtesy car" that blew. And generally getting told things i later find are just not true.
As an aside to this ive heard bad things about almost ALL the ones i havnt dealt with. I have spoke to quite few people in person/phone as am buying/ selling a few parts here and there and its off the forum i seem to get peoples real opinions. and they aint good so vendors listen up. I feel people are afraid to speak up on the forum as they are afraid they may get flamed by the hardcore rotary loving guys on here and/or people who have affilliations with the vendors.
I decided to learn to map and do my own mapping. I have now decided to build my own engines in future. lots of reading and video watching ahead.
But its been said im unlucky and a bit bitter etc. Laugh at my experience and learn from it, dont be gullible.
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;696104im thinking to run lower boost and more retarded timing on the bridge for safety. so you think large port? i m thinking i may as well bridge it while its being done i have the scope for more power then later on. just thinking at the mo
big ports + low boost could be a recipe for no torque and a narrow powerband... if you want reliable driving why not stay stock ports and get a smallish turbo operating well within its efficiency?
just to rebuff horror stories, bought my car with a fresh WGT build and it\'s great, no problems. however, i have had .... loads of grief with old and crusty ancillaries; if you get one at the least you should change the fuel filter, get some new plugs and leads and give the OMP system a good once over to make sure it\'s all right (oil and coolant flushes go without saying).
Quote from: jackaleks;696273big ports + low boost could be a recipe for no torque and a narrow powerband... if you want reliable driving why not stay stock ports and get a smallish turbo operating well within its efficiency?
just to rebuff horror stories, bought my car with a fresh WGT build and it\'s great, no problems. however, i have had .... loads of grief with old and crusty ancillaries; if you get one at the least you should change the fuel filter, get some new plugs and leads and give the OMP system a good once over to make sure it\'s all right (oil and coolant flushes go without saying).
thats kind of what i have already. 420 hp on stock ports. i want a bit more power than this using less boost. do you think street port?
Timing is also critical on these engines and not just right AFr\'s.Tuning is alot more than just getting the AFr\'s right so be careful Kriss.Also ancillaries need to be in very good order.
On a bridgeport it is possible to get good power on low boost with wide power band,so that would be a good way to go,but downside is fuel consumption especially for road and also the need for a free flowing (Loud) exhaust to get it to work properly so for track day\'s maybe a good street is best.
Regards
Carl
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;696285thats kind of what i have already. 420 hp on stock ports. i want a bit more power than this using less boost. do you think street port?
i was only speculating, you\'re better off listening to Carl :)
Quote from: HaywardRotary;696296Timing is also critical on these engines and not just right AFr\'s.Tuning is alot more than just getting the AFr\'s right so be careful Kriss.Also ancillaries need to be in very good order.
On a bridgeport it is possible to get good power on low boost with wide power band,so that would be a good way to go,but downside is fuel consumption especially for road and also the need for a free flowing (Loud) exhaust to get it to work properly so for track day\'s maybe a good street is best.
Regards
Carl
just out of curiosity really, but would you be advancing ignition and reducing fuel for that?
Quote from: jackaleks;696302i was only speculating, you\'re better off listening to Carl :)
just out of curiosity really, but would you be advancing ignition and reducing fuel for that?
Depends on revs,boost and porting really.
Come on guys, Every one knows that you should change the tips in your engine when you change the oil and spark plugs every 3000 miles.. I bought my car with no tips and it drove for like 100.000 miles. I got a jvc tuner in my car and it goes like stink.:Hammer. Lol.
Seriously though, Feel for you guys that had problems. Keith:Ladys-man
Quote from: HaywardRotary;696296Timing is also critical on these engines and not just right AFr\'s.Tuning is alot more than just getting the AFr\'s right so be careful Kriss.Also ancillaries need to be in very good order.
On a bridgeport it is possible to get good power on low boost with wide power band,so that would be a good way to go,but downside is fuel consumption especially for road and also the need for a free flowing (Loud) exhaust to get it to work properly so for track day\'s maybe a good street is best.
Regards
Carl
so i need a standard bridge port timing map? thats something im going to be reading into. there must be a few suitable bridge port and street port timing maps to look at.
2 top tuners timing map off someones car was digit for digit exactly the same as a map i got off someone else. thats the only 3 maps ive had from 3 diffrent sources all exactly the same base and split(what are the chances) maybe its not such a black art as people try to make out. it seems these standard timing maps are banded around all over the place and charged silly cash for by tuners or given away for free??
I am thinking i just need to get someones timing map on a bridge or street port then tune for afrs.
maybe just a street port not decided yet
Many will know that over the last 9 years we have hated hearing of members with not only engine problems but all problems related to a members pride and joy.
We have experienced some very bitter exchanges and in many cases we have then witnessed "mates" from either party jump on board to defend when at times the "defence" has been based on little or no fact.
As the club has evolved we now believe MRC have established a very fair system for members who have problems with either a company or an individual where a dispute is underway.
We invite the injured party to put up just one post explaining to the best of their ability the "facts" involved as to why they have a problem.
MRC will then close the thread and invite the company or person to explain their version of events leaving the membership to decide who is in the right and who is in the wrong.
The only time this will be opened is if a ruling from a court case is received from either party,
I will now lock this thread and invite a full statement to be posted rather that insinuations and innuendos which we have found actually assists neither party involved.