Firstly i know this topic has been covered several times but i believe my predicament is a little different.
I\'m loosing coolant out of my overflow and i\'m having to top her up every day.
I do not have any white smoke from cold/starts instantly
It does not overheat
Its performance is still pretty sweet
Coolant is new and the correct mixture
i carried out a \'champagne test\' from stone cold and in the process bled the system thoroughly. There were minimal bubbles, more small bubbles occured only when the car warmed up which i would think would be normal but it did make a froth as it got alot warmer.
I read that due to the heat of the engine bay when you have small leaks there just evaporated and therefore hard to find
The reason is thinking back ive only really had this problem since i changed my top/ bottom uprated coolant hoses and coolant. i had to put a pair of jubilee clips on the rad top hose side as the torque clamps were not man enough. there are no leaks to the eye. Does this make sense ????? Could this have ....ed the whole system up ????????? seriously confused but im not 100% on the engine seal.
It was rebuilt 25,000 miles / 6 years ago
Hope you can help. sorry for the mammoth esssay......
Mine had a tiny tiny leak down on the passenger side of the block, just behind the rear rotor plugs where the heater matrix hose plugs into the block, a bit of water was dripping past when warmed up, when you rev it past idle it drips more, this depleted the water in the block and rad, then when I shut the engine down the water missing from the rad was sucked out of the overflow/refill tank into the system.
I would defiantly check down there, I didn\'t think I had a leak but after the coolent buzzer went off when the water sensor became dry due to the water leaking from around that area I thought I best investigate!
You might find that the old rad hoses were slightly leaking which meant that the water in the system wasn\'t under so much pressure as there was a way for the water pressure to escape, now you have got new rad hoses on the water pressure then tries to get out the next weak spot, which in my case was the block to heater matrix pipe, engine end.