Is it usual to have no accessory position on the ignition barrel?
I spent a weekend of crawling around inside the care swearing and destroying trim as i ripped it out, trying to fit component speakers. Bit of work with a hammer & hacksaw and they went in. More swearing whilst heat gunning on the dynomat and it sounded great.
Only trouble is all the time I had the ignition on to test the stereo the fuel pump was happily filling up the engine.
Would it start? Still wont a week later.....
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=604
sounds like you have a carb problem if running the fuel pump flooded the engine. But yes my fuel pump comes on with the first click of the key.
sounds modified, 1st gens only have a low pressure pump, do you have a 12 inj turbo conversion? if so, it sounds like who ever fitted the pump wired to whatever power they could find?
Oh, its a carb problem i reckon. B***dy s**t bag of a low-tech, rubbish standard carb which is going straight in the bin when the turbo arrives.
Apart from the tuned up Elford kit and large exaust its standard, so I guess this could happen again, with any carb.
(why didn\'t I go for a 2nd gen, at least they had fool injection...)
How could the pump be wired wrong?
And I\'ve got air in the clutch hydraulics I think- ever had that sinking pedal feeling? Got to pump the pedal to change gear some times!
Bugger
:confused:
Lol binning that low tech 4 barrel vacuum secondary carb for the ultimate in modern carb design ... the SU :D (to be fair they aren\'t bad ... and a british design)
I think the pump being wired wrong was in reference to it coming on with the radio ... I am not sure as I have no radio so I can\'t 100% remember if it has an accesory postion or not, I thought it did not.
All I know is i let my fuel pump change note (so I know its primed the carb) before I start the car so it must run if you have the ignition on without the engine started. (reminds me I need to sort a battery ASAP!)
When the Elford kit going on then ?
Kit should go on in a couple of weeks. Still waiting on stainless wire for the turbo heat blanket and making a mounting plate for the boost gauge where the gubbins tray under the stereo used to be. Oh, gotta get a bleed valve too.
This is all assuming that it ever starts again....
what are you going for now then turbo? ive still got plenty of bits if you need them, i\'m sure my pump doesnt come on until the second click.
lol been up and fitted a new battery to the car again (but couldn\'t drive it due to some builders dumping a load of stuff outside of my rented garage !! :reallymad everything is trying to stop me using this car!!) and I didn\'t pay attention to whether it has more than one click on the key .. DOH
pretty sure its just 1 click to get the warning lights on, then another to fire it up.
Just dont use the stereo without starting it.
not much chance of that ... it hasn\'t got one ! (a stereo that is)
Hmm. Left it for a week in warm weather with the plugs out so I know it isnt flooded any more. Ran it with the fuel off & plugs out just to be sure.
Its got a new battery and I had it plugged in to the charger/booster the whole time I was trying to start it anyway.
Wont even go with easystart.
Very odd. Its just been rebuilt and started on the button untill very recently. Hasn\'t been on the road much as its still under construction.
The last one I had had double the milage and wasn\'t that fresh, but never had anything like this happen.
I\'m stumped.
have you got a spark ? have you got fuel to the carb ?
How do find out if there\'s fuel to the carb? Pull the fuel hose off i spose. I got sparks some of the time....will that do?
Oh, whats an igniter? The manual says I got to check them with a light bulb?
Might try that petrol in a squirty bottle trick to see if it is the fuel.
Then its a detailed exam of the ignition system me thinks.
But why would it suddenly just stop working? Weird.
Mine has done the same recently, found it was a lack of compression. Try squirting some oil into the rotor housings, put the plugs back in but dont connect the ht leads....spin it over for 10-15 seconds then reconnect the leads. After doing this mine started first time!
Thanks, I\'ll give it a try. It has new tips tho, so it should be ok comp wise.
Got fuel
Got sparks
Still wont go
The sparks from the top two plugs looked weeker than the bottom two though.
Changed the cap, still wont start
I\'m thinking of throwing the rotary lump away and installing pedals.
strange, The upper (trailing) plugs will have a lesser spark as it has more gaps to bridge due to the design of the dizzy so that sounds fine.
Have you tried the oil trick ? I know the motor has been rebuilt but it was a DIY job so theres an element of doubt there I suppose ?
Mike
Spose so
To be fair tho, it was running superbly - better than any rotary I\'ve come accross. Started with the 1st twist of the key, didn\'t need as much choke as some. Really smooth.
And then it wouldn\'t start, and no one played with the little blue car ever again......
Oh how hard can it be? Theres only so many things to do with fuel and sparks. I\'m working my way through.
I\'ll try the oil thing tomorrow.:confused:
She lives again.
New plugs (£30 the theiving ******s!!)
Some oil down the bores and off she went.
Just got to sort out the sinking clutch pedal now.....
Bled it 3 times and air is still comming out. Master cylendar?
On and on and on and on. Will it ever see the road or just continue to rob me of my hard earned cash? (moan, moan, moan)
Glad you got it sorted ! :3gears-lh
sounds like you have a leak somewhere in the clutch system, could be anything really, M/C , S/C, pipework, joints etc. or it could just be a total pain in the ass to bleed , have you tried putting a hose on the bleed nipple and letting a load of fluid run through the system (keeping it topped up of course) I find this can remove stuborn air bubbles.
might be worth checking the joints too, I think there are some copper washers on the slave cylinder end.
Yes Could be anything in the system. All the pipes are new copper jobbies. The guy who sold it me did mumble something about the clutch when he gave it to me along the lines of \'\'might need a new master cylinder....\'\'
In other words: there\'s a problem - you find it. Cheers buddy.
Im gonna grill him a bit and see if i can get any clues.
I\'ve got a spare master cylinder, but the manual says replace the clutch bit too, or buy overhaul kits.
Seems to me like air is getting in somewhere and you could pump the pedal all day with the bleed valve open and there\'d still be bubbles.:reallymad
The oil down the plug holes was a great tip by the way. I wonder if it would have started without the £30 set of plugs?
Oh well I got spares.
Should I have gapped them? How can you when the 3 bits round the electrode are curved?
no need to gap them, they come pre set.
I wonder if you can clean up your old plugs ? might be worth it.
Yeah, they aren\'t that dirty. A bit of wire wool and they\'ll be fine.
Apparently the S/C is new and the M/C has a rebuild kit in it.
But it still leaks some where. I ran a litre od dot4 through it yesterday and air was still comming out.
Today i check all the joints and bleed it again.