Right, picked up my EGI bout 6 months ago off another forum member, its a g - plate (\'90 i think) and it was in a pretty rotten condition. Spent the past few months replacing inner and other sills on both sides as well as rats nest removal, 2nd butterfly removal and installing RB headers.
When I picked up the car, it started but would not idle as there was some pretty shocking work done to the exhaust system and removal of the air pump. Now everything is tidied up and should work, the engine turns over but will not fire. I checked back through the electrics and initally found I had no spark or fuel, but fixed the spark issue and bypassed the fuel relays (ran 12v to the pump) so the engine now has both fuel and ignition, it will now turn over but not fire although it sounds like it wants to. There are no obvious air leaks and I only have the RB headers part of the exhaust attached. I dont think the engine is flooded but still cant get it to fire.
Is there anything anyone can think of or point me in the right direction to solve this, I can take pictures if necessary. As stock does the fuel pump circuit have a cut-off or something in the ECU that could be stopping the car from starting or could the problem be to do with the Thermo-wax? Also the car is a 6 - port, I havent bothered with any electronic (or otherwise) activation of these so as the car sits, the ports are permanently in the open position (i think).
Many thanks, all help appreciated.
if you have spark and fuel - then it could be something more serious :(
first thing - if you can get hold of a normal compression tester - then you can do a basic compression test
hold the release valve down , crank the engine ( with the EGI fuse removed ) and see what figures you get for the front and rear rotors
with that info , we should all have a better idea :D
Where are you in the \'south\'?
It sounds to me as though it may be flooded. I would check the following:
1) are plug leads on correctly
2) are the plugs wet and/or worn
3) is the fuel stale
worn plugs and flooding would deffo give the problems you are having.
:wave
Definately check the plugs as its a common problem for the fc apparently if its sat for a long time, cost me £38 to replace mine when it wouldnt start, best thing I did
Quote from: Brett;691485Where are you in the \'south\'?
It sounds to me as though it may be flooded. I would check the following:
1) are plug leads on correctly
2) are the plugs wet and/or worn
3) is the fuel stale
worn plugs and flooding would deffo give the problems you are having.
:wave
Im in Worthing also, the leads are on correctly as per the FSM and other guides (rx7 club).
The plugs are a little wet but are new.
The fuel is new 97 RON
Sounds like it may be flooded, by this and what others have suggested any tips for the best way to remedy this?
Thanks
Take the plugs out and dry them off - might even be worth leaving them out over night so that any fuel that may have pooled in that chamber can evapourate. I\'d be tempted to squirt a little engine oil in via the plug holes to aid with the sealing before putting the plugs back in.
I\'d also recommend charging the battery again before you start - it will want a good strong spark.
If all else fails then you can also try using some \'easy start\' or similar to get it going.
I\'m around in Worthing this weekend, so let me how it goes - if you\'re still stuck I\'ll come over :)
Thanks for the advice guys, I\'ll try these things tomorrow and let you know. If I am still stuck and you can spare a bit of time Brett, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Good luck, we expect regular status updates! :Giggle
So went through and checked a few things today. The engine was flooded so followed the procedure and managed to get it to fire. Its stupid loud with only the headers attached!
Now the problam solving continues, the car fires, revs up and then dies almost straight away. You can\'t hold it on revs (partial throttle or full) and it doesnt look / sound like its an air leak that causing it to die.
So, any more helpful suggestion on what could be causing problems. Does the ECU have a cut-out that may be causing it to die? As i have bypassed the entire fuel system and run 12v directly to the pump, could this be causing the issue?
Aside from that I think I am going to have to go on a massive fault finding wiring journey, and eliminate one thing at a time. As the wiring was botched and cut / spliced before I got the car this could prove difficult...
Ok, fisrt thing to check is the presets on the throttle body.
You say you have removed the secondary butterfly valves, have you moved any of the stop positions on the others? Are all of the TPS and dampeners moving freely? Do the thermal pellets work as they should?
Also, what has the idle mixture been set to? (The adjustable pot behind the airbox)
Basically - check all of the idle control system :wave
Does the car still have an air pump? There might be leaking blanking plates if it has been removed.
Quote from: Brett;692194Ok, fisrt thing to check is the presets on the throttle body.
You say you have removed the secondary butterfly valves, have you moved any of the stop positions on the others? Are all of the TPS and dampeners moving freely? Do the thermal pellets work as they should?
Also, what has the idle mixture been set to? (The adjustable pot behind the airbox)
Basically - check all of the idle control system :wave
None of the stop positions have been moved on the primary butterflys.
All the TPS and senders seem to be moving as they should, I havent bothered with any of the 6th port activation though but cant see that this would make a huge difference to idle.
Not sure on the thermal pellets (thermo wax), as mentioned the car didnt run / idle when I got it so not sure if these are ok or how to check them.
I havent touched the idle mixture so it will be what ever it was for the last xx years.
If you do have some spare time this weekend Brett, any help or time that you could offer would be much appreciated. Let me know if you\'re around.
Quote from: m1tch;692200Does the car still have an air pump? There might be leaking blanking plates if it has been removed.
The air pump had been removed before i got the car, fairly sure theres no air leak there as the blanking plates are well sealed.
Thanks again
I\'ve sent you an email :wave
Hey Brett, many thanks for coming over on Saturday. Hope I can get a few things done now after what we discussed. Send me your paypal mate and I\'ll sort you out a few quid for that strut and whatnot like agreed.
No worries - I\'ve had a ponder and a read. I will drop you an email tomorrow with my thoughts :)
.......... strut brace ............ ??????
Quote from: grinder;692812.......... strut brace ............ ??????
Yeah, didnt fix the car but Brett had a rear strut kicking around in the back of his FC that he didnt want :D.
Ok updates.
So I have returned the car back to stock (or as close as possible as it never came with an air pump or associated parts) and re-plumbed in the rats nest, as per my discussions with Brett.
I am still not getting 12v at the fuel pump and when I run 12v directly to it, I am getting the same problem. It runs for about 2 -3 secs and then cuts out. The revs are holding a lot smoother now with the rats nest reinstalled but it still refuses to idle. It will also now start without the aid of EZ Start.
Aside from trying a different ECU, is there anything anyone can help with?
Thanks again and heres hoping...
Have you identified the pin out for the pimp on the ecu yet?
In a word, no :). I have the FSM from rx7club but thats for American cars and there are some differences (as I am finding out) between our cars and theirs.
Did you manage to find that link you mentioned for the UK FSM Brett?
Not yet, but if you drop me a text tomorrow I can check the book :)
Nice one mate. I\'m thinking there could be an immobiliser still in part of the wiring somewhere, this could be what is stopping 12v from reaching the pump and whats making it cut-out when I bypass that part of the circuit.
Does anyone have links to the UK wiring / pin-out diagrams for these cars, or Brett, is it in the book you have?
Thanks
This is the FSM I have not sure if its US or UK. Probably US TBH
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/s5/
yeah that looks like the US ones, but it has some stuff I dont so thanks :Thumbsup!
Ive been told there is a fuel cut-off switch inside the AFM on these cars,
does anyone know how to reset it?
Done a quick search but couldnt find anything.
Hey, anyone able to help with this?