I have an RE Amemiya chipped ecu for an FC from japan (not fitted yet) my FC is a JDM so its factory ecu is tuned for jap hi octane fuel but ive herd that installing the chipped ecu may damage the engine because of the uk fuel is anyone else running one of these ecu\'s or have any advice about them
Cheers
Quote from: festa;691276I have an RE Amemiya chipped ecu for an FC from japan (not fitted yet) my FC is a JDM so its factory ecu is tuned for jap hi octane fuel but ive herd that installing the chipped ecu may damage the engine because of the uk fuel is anyone else running one of these ecu\'s or have any advice about them
Cheers
Hey mate, its best to run high octane stuff like V power or Tesco 99RON, its a performance car and needs performance fuel. If you get an aftermarket ECU like a Power FC, Emanage ultimate or a microtech it can be mapped for UK fuel, but for the time being, keep with high octane.
What about running the chiped ecu on tesco 99 any reasons why this would cause engine damage or should I stick to the factory ecu?
The higher octane fuel will reduce the chance of detonation on boost - not good! The chipped ECU, as its mapped for 100RON takes this into account and can run slightly different settings to get more power but reduced safety margins, but can get away with it on higher octane fuel.
Is your ECU UK spec or jap spec anyhow? What is the RE-A ECU mapped for?
The ecu in the car is the factory jap one, the chipped one I got off ebay is set up for higher boost, bigger exust, removed speed cut out, higher rev cut out etc and said the fuel map was modified.
A bit vage but you get that when you buy second hand parts, I dont think its to much of a change from the factory settings I think the main thing it does is up the fuel to the the engine so you can run slightly higher boost.
I\'m under the impression my fc has RE-A chipped ecu. though the ecu and the car is english.
If its one of the re-a chips that are usually sold on ebay it will have;
removal of fuel cut (when running above stock boost)
removal of rev limit
and a map for higher boost(0.9 bar max), an upraded air filter, full through exhuast and an uprated intercooler.
Mine has been run with a full exhuast, and air filter. I can only assume that because the exhuast was a full through it was running more than standard boost, i never had a boost gauge though.
Hasn\'t let me down so far, and the previous owner thought it was kicking out about 240 bhp
hope this helps, don\'t know what the deal with the jap fuel is, though i always run mine on v power
Yea that sounds like the spec, did you have any problems when runing the re-a chipped ecu I know they use 100 ron in japan so useing tesco 99 can\'t be that different.
Check this site out they say tesco 99 is the best after doing loads of testing. http://www.thorneymotorsport.co.uk/index.html
0.9 bar is about the point where the OEM fueling and the turbo runs out of puff lol the OEM ECU doesn\'t run the OEM injectors to full duty cycle but will cap them at a safer level. The Knightsport ecu (which I have) and the RE-A ECUs will run the injectors fully to probably about 92% duty cycle which is MAX, if your injectors aren\'t in tip top condition they could fail on full boost meaning the engine will run lean and the engine will probably be lost lol.
I havn\'t gone past 0.8bar yet, mainly because my clutch has been eaten by the engine and the fact that the OEM wastegate isn\'t strong enough lol should be running max mapping and boost this year though :) I have all the shiny parts I need in a box next to me :D
I\'ve run a Blitz Access chipped ECU from Japan in an FC for a few years - as a daily runner - I run 99 RON and have since the ECU was fitted. I\'ve had a couple of engines fail - but never because the ECU failed.
All I would say, is check the current ECU for any error codes - and then when you swap the other ECU in and do the same check - if you get no codes then chances are you\'ll have no issues.
The chipped ECU\'s usually have mapping for higher than stock boost, rev/speed/boost cut\'s removed, and have more agressive timing - they are designed to get the most out of exhaust/induction/intercooler mods and some are for upgraded turbo as well - you may not get much out of a stock setup with one of these ECU\'s, but if you\'ve done some of those mods then the ECU will be a useful upgrade. Ideally you want to match the ECU to your mods - as these chipped ECU\'s are a fixed map - not alterable.
festa - nope havn\'t had a single problem with the engine. The only reason its still not running is because the exhuast split itself after i stupidly missed out a hanger when fitting it.
Mitch - agree with you completely on the condition of the fuelling system but i have spoken to a couple of people now who\'ve run the stock turbo over one bar (though they say theres not a lot of point) and havn\'t had any problems. may be this is because the turbo becomes pretty inefficient after 0.9 bar. Either way, afm to check all this stuff is a must and if you\'ve got a map up to 0.9 bar whats the point?
prof - are these other chips for hybrid turbo\'s and do you have any other information on them? only reason i gave up on a hybrid was because i thought i\'d have to fork out for a mappable ecu.
from my findings (namely from their respective websites), most of the jap tuners ecu\'s (re-a, r-magic, blitz etc) are \'universal\' for \'stage 1\' mods.
seldom see these aftermarket ecu\'s tuned for individual hybris turbos etc as they usually would use apexi pfc / microtech etc.
only main differance i\'ve read is some are tuned for larger (150%) IC, but most are induction cone, exhaust, higher boost, remove speed limit.
so how are these maps created? Does some use something like a pfc then copy the same map onto a chip?
the intake and exhust are done and the ic is stock, so I should it should be ok to run the chipped ecu on a safe boost level I don\'t want to go to high and risk the engine at this stage.
Whats the best way of uping the boost pressure to about 0.7 bar?
Also is there any other small mods I can do to up the power I\'m planing to do do a proper job next year after enjoying the car this summer hopfeuly with out breaking it.
should be fine with the ic as long as your not driving it really hard, i.e loads of drifting and always on full boost. though i\'d still recommend something a bit bigger just for added safety.
as for boost you can either go manual or electronic boost controller. not sure on the disadvantages of the manual, but they seem to be frowned upon. If you\'ve got a decent exhaust theres a chance you could be running 0.7 bar boost already, so i\'d advise on fitting a boost gauge first.
well the cheapest mod is stripping the thing, you could always look into getting an ally bonnet off a cab fc
The ally bonnet is on the todo list, a boost gage sounds like a good place to start
Quote from: dthebuk;691371so how are these maps created? Does some use something like a pfc then copy the same map onto a chip?
They are usually done by the tuners like knightsports who change the OEM chip with their own, I can\'t really say about mine as they are copyright to the respective owners.
For profs hybrid he, like myself is running an e-manage ultimate, which just piggybacks the ECU and adjusts some of the mapping and tunes itself.
I have an AFR on mine, but until I get the clutch and actuator in I can\'t really check it as it drops to about 9:1 on boost due to overfueling lol
Yeah 0.9bar is the most you want to go with the OEM turbo, found that on the drag strip its really good for launches but runs out of puff about 2/3s down the run. Running 1bar plus will just mean stupidly high intake temperature as its outside of its efficiency, which is why most aftermarket maps run to 0.9 bar which is the safe limit of the injectors and where the oem turbo runs out of puff.
Quote from: festa;691378The ally bonnet is on the todo list, a boost gage sounds like a good place to start
Boost gauge is the first thing you put in, try and get a mechanical one as the electrical sort can have errors if they have a bad earth etc.
Quote from: dthebuk;691363prof - are these other chips for hybrid turbo\'s and do you have any other information on them? only reason i gave up on a hybrid was because i thought i\'d have to fork out for a mappable ecu.
The Hybrid turbo will just have a better efficiency map at higher boost levels - but the mapping in the chips should cope in as much as 0.5 BAR boost, 0.75 BAR and so on will be the same regardless of what pumped it in there. I ran the Hybrid with the chipped ECU up to about 12 psi, but I didn\'t want to trust running higher boost without bigger injectors and the emanage to control and monitor it all.
I did a test with a couple of different ECU\'s, and most of the chipped ECU\'s do much the same thing with regards to fuelling and timing - with some differences in the maps.
In the stock ECU, the primaries do all the work low down in the map, and then at the transition point, they drop back to 40% and don\'t do much more - the secondaries do the rest of the work. In the 2 chipped ECU\'s I\'ve tested, the drop is a lot less, and the secondaries stage in low to start with - and increase at a higher rate than the primaries. The change point is about the same place in the map - but even on low boost - the primaries could be doing all the work.
I\'ve only checked timing on the Blitz Access ECU and compared it to the stock ECU - the split (difference between leading and trailing plugs) is reduced in the off boost part of the map, and the maximum advance is higher on the chipped ECU - the advance and split timings seem to be very close to the numbers Judge Ito put up on the RX7 club - I didn\'t do much at all with the timing apart from put some more retard in at the top end for safety.
Cheers for all the advice, seams that if the car may already be running higher boost due to the exhust then I would be beter off running the chiped ecu to get more petrol in there and because I\'m not running up to the max 0.9 bar then the engine would be running richer not leaner so it should be on the safe side.
Also how does the larger exhust over ride the waste gate and allow the turbo to make more boost ?
Cos the wastegate isn\'t big enough ;)
The stock wastegate is just able to control the boost with the heavily restrictive stock exhaust and induction piping. The moment you start playing with either or both of these, you will see the boost go up, but more unfortunately also boost creep will begin to happen in the higher gears to start with, and if very bad in 2nd/3rd too.
The problem is even worse on the series 4 turbo cars, that just had a single wastegate hole.
Check out FC3Spro for some porting advice, I have gone all out I have have a custom bell mouth downpipe which allows maximum flow for the turbo and maximum opening on the wastegate :D
Quote from: festa;691532Cheers for all the advice, seams that if the car may already be running higher boost due to the exhust then I would be beter off running the chiped ecu to get more petrol in there and because I\'m not running up to the max 0.9 bar then the engine would be running richer not leaner so it should be on the safe side.
Also how does the larger exhust over ride the waste gate and allow the turbo to make more boost ?
You should definately look at getting an AFR so you can see how rich the car is running on boost. Do you have an FCD fitted? When the TII\'s go over stock boost (by 1psi? could someone back that up?) they should cut fuel. If you\'re car isn\'t cutting fuel then chances are you either have an fcd, a chip or a pretty restrictive exhuast. Think your best bet is to get a boost guage to see what the car is actually doing.
Had a look and there dosn\'t seem to be any FCD and had a look at the ECU in the car and its seems to be the factory stock one.
The exhust is standard down pipe and still has cat outer thats been hollowed out and a fujitsubo twin system from there back.