Guys, I\'m going to be getting my new front brakes soon... basicaly 330mm discs & uprated calipers, but would this upset the braking.... just having the fronts uprated? I\'ve had a thought.... would it be a possible solution to drop the std front brakes on to the rear: front discs & 4 pot calipers. I know the handbrake will have to be sorted out...... poss a small caliper with it\'s own hydrolic system?? but would this be OK to do?
Jono
From a braking balance point of view you\'ll tend to tramline on full anchors and will suffer from understeer if you trailbrake into a corner. If it\'s just for the street it won\'t matter too much just be mindful of locking the fronts up on hard braking esp in poor conditions. However if you are circuit racing and want to keep the balance it would be best to either fit a brake bias valve or a full set of uprated brakes.
Sorry somone else will have to fill you in on the mechanicals.:o
Are you using semi-slicks?
I think you will find it very difficult to put the frons on the rears and find somewhere to mount a second caliper. I would say not worth the time/money/effort but then if your up for a challenge why not.
I\'m not sure if it\'s lawful or not but you could uprate the rears then use a line lock kit like the draggers do to lock the rear brakes....
I think it had to be a seperate system i.e cable and hydro not just all hydro. Sure someone with mot testing background will correct me.
Quote from: Lil-Steve;685357I\'m not sure if it\'s lawful or not but you could uprate the rears then use a line lock kit like the draggers do to lock the rear brakes....
What a wally this guy is: front brakes nOOb!
The car is mainly used on the road, but when the new engine gets sorted & dropped in, then it will see some light track use!, basicaly I\'m thinkint having the front uprated & std rears it would upset the braking a little?? so by droping the bigger discs & calipers on the rear it would even things up a little. handbrake wouldn\'t be an issue as I know how to work around that, but it\'s just the foot brake I\'m talking about here ;)
Jono
Brunswick ran their front brakes on the rear and put 6 pot AP brakes on the front. It was a lot of machining to do this. We sold a set of spot callipers to Craig Taylor to get over this...they were about £200 for the set. But obviously you need to make a set of brackets for these to work too.
I know you like a challenge...but your next point is getting the master cylinder to work. You need to have a balance between front and rear.
would I be better off just getting good uprated pads for the rear?
It depends Jono on your budget. The rear pads aren\'t that cheap either. DS2500 are over £100 for the rears...surprisingly more expensive than the fronts!!
We made a good kit for the rear, which I admit isn\'t cheap, but at just over £1k all in it means you get to keep the handbrake and the kit just bolts straight into place.
We have a car in at the moment where the previous place fitted a front and rear kit. The brackets weren\'t thick enough...so they flex under braking. This causes judder and for the pads to wear unevenly as the callipers aren\'t remaining parallel to the rotor. Consequently they were a complete waste of time and money!
Now we have done them properly they work fine :)
So if you are prepared to get the brackets absolutely perfect then do the rear conversion...but If you are in any doubt...either go with our kit or stick some uprated pads.
As someone said earlier...the last thing you want as you are heading towards a wall is to hit the brakes and nothing happen!
i used endless brake pads, they are the best pads money can buy for street driving!
It has been done before, might be an idea to get a brake bias adjuster though to make sure the bias is kept :) I belive for an FC if you get a bracket made up you can run R32 skyline brakes which will be cheaper than other options etc