Is removing the air pump a good or bad idea?,i was going to blank it off with some blanks,but i have been reading a couple of threads and people have removed them for more space,this would no doubt effect your emissions,would you still pass your MOT,your thoughts guys
john
You need it if you still have a cat.
could i change to a decat,iam not sure if i have a cat
Personally I wouldn\'t fit a decat without a programmable ECU, but some people do. Without the cat as a restriction the turbos tend to over boost.
and overboosting leads to detonation, which leads to big bills :O
so should i just blank it off then
I would do a lot of homework before fitting or removing any engine parts.
There are lots of things you shouldn\'t do until you do another thing first and you cant do those until you do something else first.
Start off with good quality HT leads, vacuum hoses, viton valves, fuel filter and stuff like that.
I know its tempting to pull it out, Iv\'e been there:Giggle
Or you can take your chances, others have:2Rolleyes
have you got a guide possibly or something like that to point me in the right direction
If you are going to remove the air pump from the exhaust system then make sure you have the supporting fuel/ecu modification to deal with the change or you will most certainly cause side affects that can no doubt cause engine failure.
If you do decide to physically go de-cat you will intern free flow the exhaust system by removing the cat therefore turbo spool is quicker and the fuelling will defiantly need to be adjusted to suite unless you take the risk of detonation and a nice rebuild invoice.
Also if i remember correctly if you remove the air pump on the Stock ECU you will get a nice attractive red (HEAT) warning light on the dash.
If you do remove the air pump you will need the required Blanking Plates.
DM Motorsport on the forum sells them as a kit...
They also sell the replacement free running pulley which bolts in the place of the air pump with a free spinning bearing pulley which I believe lets you keep your current size belt.
Or you can run a Greddy oversized water pulley kit to run on the outside of the water pump and totally eliminate the air pump.
This comes with Alternator and water pump pulley + shorter belt.
Hope this helps.
yeh thats helped loads,just another question?lets just say i blank off the air pump without removing it do i still need to get a shorter belt and a ECU,
could somebody give me help on what ECU to look for
you wanna look for an Apexi Power FC mate there expensive but a hell of alot cheaer then a rebuild plus can easily be remapped if you decide to change your setup or add a few mods, but you have to get the one that is designed for your car if you post what year yours is im sure someone will tell you which model you need
Kris
If you just unplug the airpump you can leave it on there - you\'ll not need a belt then.
If you remove your cat, as they say above, get an ECU thats mapped to fuel for the increased boost. Apexi PowerFC is the most sensible option, as its easily mapped and remapped, and the Commander gives you a lot of local control to tweak settings.
A cheaper option would be to grab a KnightSports or similar \'chipped\' ECU that\'s running a map appropriate to your mods - but that wont be flexible and you\'ll not know 100% what you are getting.
well that was on my to do list so maybe removing air pump a good idea,must say thanks for the help really gave me an idea on whats what
http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/pulley-kit
are these the pulleys i will need
DISCLAIMER -
I do not own an RX7, and ive only been looking into them for abuot a week, I am no expert at all, please take this entire post as a question, and not an answer !
-----
It might be a nice idea to do some sort of modification flow discussion, with a few of the more basic goals catered for, now, I know very little about the RX7, but I would assume the same principle applies.
More power needs more fuel, more fuel means bigger injectors, more fuel needs more air, more air needs more cold air, changing fuel/air need AFR adjustments, which in turn adjust timings, to adjust AFR/Timing you need a programmable ECU.
so from that,
1st things 1st - Get a mappable ECU - even with a base map, you can keep things safe from then on.
Now you can adjust your air fuel, you can start givig the car, or getting in the position where the car has more fuel/air available.
2nd - Large injectors and a nice FMIC/upgraded rads.
Now that you are in a position to allow more fuel and air IN the engine, its often a good idea to allow more fuel/air OUT of the engine.
3rd would be a nice exhaust, and possibly the decat now you have the mappable ecu so keep things safe.
At this point although you should be abel to generate more power, your still goign to be putting the engine under more strain now. This is where my knowlege of Rotary fails miserably, but from the little i understand, you need to make sure your now causing any overheating on the detination area\'s of the engine, cos the shrink and the chrome wears in and compression goes to crap followed by the rest of the engine.
And again, in not even entirly sure how the engine gets it cooling delivered ( i will go look into that as soon as i finsh this actually ) but none the less...
4th.. upgrading engine cooling to compensate for the new power.
Assuming at this point your starting to squeese more power out of the car, and the engine is happy doing so, you will have the rest of the car to worrie about. But this all depends on exactly how much power your going for.
Is your clutch going to start slipping with the new power output ?
How is yoru gearbox going to handle all the extra bang when you drop the new clutch into gear ?
5th - New Clutch/Fly ( hanging the fly when you have the flutch out is 0 labour ) ( on most cars anyway ) Possibly a stronger diff, to complete yoru final poweroutput all the way to the tarmak.
More power = More speed, which means you might want better brakes. and better breaks is more heat, so you might want to upgrade your lins while your at it.
6th - Better breaking. Saftey 1st chaps
So now you have a happy engine, producing more power, and you can get that power onto the road, and you can stop the car again. And for me this is a process of rince and repeat.
As mentioned above, there is no serious reserch or deep seeded knowlege behind any of this, this is just a rambling of my personal experiances to date.
However hopefully it could at least server as a starting point to get some good factual information down :D
I\'m considering this mod further down the line when i fit a power fc and high flow cat.
But, as mentioned in the first post, will the car pass an mot without it, it is there to aid low speed emissions by injecting oxygen into the cat isn\'t it?
Some people have been able to pass MOT by really leaning out the map or running E85. Others just have a friendly local MOT station who helps get the car through.
My emissions are Huuuugely over the limits on my map...
So do most peeps keep theirs plumbed in and refit a cat come mot time then?
Saying that on the basis that so many on here seem to be running decats hence can\'t have it working most of the time.