There\'s probably a few threads on this already, but I thought I\'d describe my exact symptoms so that hopefully people can help!
As you know the car has JUST got back onto the road after about 7 years off, and rot/rear brakes aside seems to be pretty good! But she REALLY doesn\'t go so well.
The car has NO torque low down, I hit a steepish hill the other day doing 70mph in 5th and by the top it\'d slowed to 60mph, my 1.8 BMW held 70 up there without any problems, to give you an idea.
When coming on boost you get mini \'flat spots\', like a hesitation, where it feels as if it isn\'t fuelling properly?!
I\'m also burning through a huge amount of fuel - high even for an un-tweaked rotary! But I really want to be careful because I don\'t want to fiddle too much and suddenly I\'m getting det or something, so advice please? Or are you just going to say \'check all the connections aren\'t corroded\'!?
I\'ll check the new plugs at the weekend and find out what they\'re like now - black I suspect.
Thanks!
Start at the cheap end. Plugs, leads, earths, fuel filter etc. What fuel are you using old or new? I have heard of the fc being prone to developing leaky injectors when they are stood for a while. If one or more of the injectors is passing more fuel than it should this could give you the loss of power I think as it won\'t be burning it right. Plus your fuel consumtion would be high.
Mitch had heavy fuel usage and it turned out to be down to his diy cold air box blocking airflow to the air filter.
It\'s probably a good place to start - that and the Air Flow Meter - you want to check for even and steady resistance change as you move the plunger in and out.
Not sure if you\'ve changed the plugs - but that\'s often a cause of poor engine running.
If you are still on the stock ECU - I would get the diagnostics off it as well - see if you\'ve got an error codes - could help track down issues more quickly.
See here for how to read them out:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49131&highlight=ecu+error+codes
Thanks guys!
Turned out one of the HT leads had come off - heck knows how! All better now - except the fuel consumption. Can\'t be averaging more than 15mpg, normally driving gently too (occasional blast to stop carbon build-up ;) )
Stuff still needs to be done though.
Might benifit from an exhiast and air filter, I\'ve managed 30 mpg from mine
Both are on the books ;)
Problem is that I\'ll also need a boost controller and (preferably) an ECU too. And then probably port the wastegate too :p
It all adds up very quickly, especially when I\'m saving to go to NZ for a month or 2!
Another question:
Going to order replacement leads, but (and no offense meant to MRP) £75 ex VAT for a set of leads seems hella expensive to me! (a new set for my BMW would be about 1/3 that price!).
I know the magnecor are good, but any recommendations? You can pick up sets from ebay for about £16! Mad huh?
I\'m trying to improve ignition though, rather than make it worse :p
Quote from: papercutout;683410Another question:
Going to order replacement leads, but (and no offense meant to MRP) £75 ex VAT for a set of leads seems hella expensive to me! (a new set for my BMW would be about 1/3 that price!).
I know the magnecor are good, but any recommendations? You can pick up sets from ebay for about £16! Mad huh?
I\'m trying to improve ignition though, rather than make it worse :p
Yeah but how long will a £16 set last? I got some blue magnecor leads from MRP, big difference in power output and smoothness, £70 ish is about right, its a performance car and it needs performance leads, don\'t forget that rx7 leads are a bit longer than leads for say an mx5, well worth the money considering its the reason to get power from the engine, you might as well not bother with tuning and forced induction if you can\'t ignite the fuel and air mix you have created :)
Pretty much what I thought, so was wondering about alternatives really! I realise the £16 jobbies (I\'ve since found them cheaper!) will be crap, so I didn\'t really want them.
No special fitments/specs on the FC ones compared to say, a piston car is there? Thanks
Quote from: papercutout;683535Pretty much what I thought, so was wondering about alternatives really! I realise the £16 jobbies (I\'ve since found them cheaper!) will be crap, so I didn\'t really want them.
No special fitments/specs on the FC ones compared to say, a piston car is there? Thanks
Although the spark plug is funky, the spark plug ends are the same :rollin they are just longer than piston cars :) have your current ones ever been changed?
Are they really longer? My E30 ones were pretty long - BMW being BMW make a special routing thing that takes them half way round the engine to keep them neat and tidy :p
I\'ve not got the foggiest, but they certainly will be soon!
And back up again!
Car runs MUCH better now with that last lead connected! Different exhaust fitted and filter, but she is still missfiring! So looking at leads again.
Liam is able to sort some items for me, so the idea\'s are:
Magnecor KV85\'s
Nology Hotwires
Spitfire somethingorothers
Any recommendations? The Nology\'s are tempting just because they\'re really different (http://www.nology.com/hot.html), but I was wondering if anyone has had any experience?
Thanks!
From what I\'ve read of our ignition system - the design goal is to keep the capacitance seen on the secondary side of the ignition coil to a minimum. The reasoning is it dampens the voltage spike when the current to the primary is interrupted.
Effectively this means shielded ingition wires or wires with capacitors will reduce the peformance. This is the main reason for coil on plug - as it reduces the length of the high tension wire and therefore parasitic capacitance greatly.
I\'d go with the Magnecor\'s for that reason.