ok i think i might have broken it in a terminal way... after speaking to a couple of people they seem to think from my discription that its a chipped tip :(
anyway...
story goes, went to get fuel last night, drove there it warmed up fine, filled up, came home, on the way home there are a couple nice straight roads and i gave it a bit of a boot, nothing drastic or out of the ordinary... pull in to my road and get on to my drive and notice the idle has dropped from its 1k ish normal place down to about 400-500rpm... and it was a bit lumpy and the car seemed to vibrate a lot!
didnt notice anything really different with the exhaust note but then im running a nur spec with decat and no silencers... so it sounds like a tractor anyway lol...
so i went back out for a drive, it drives fine, it boosts when you change gear the revs seem to drop quicker than normal... almost to the point of stalling but will just about carry on ticking over...
it starts hot or cold but will still be rough, if i put my foot on the throttle and hold it at 1k it seems to be fine however every now and then it makes a minute missing like a hiccup...
i took the plugs out 1 at a time, started front housing bottom, 3 equal puffs, then rear housing bottom, again 3 equal puffs sounds like the front one, then rear top 3 equal puffs... sounds a bit softer to the bottom 2 and the front top sounds the same so all have equal puffs, bottom and top but tops sound a bit lazier lol...
started it today and it chucked out a fair amount of bluey smoke... then stopped but would barely idle.
on a side note my oil cap always had a bit of mayo in it i mean like a light smear in the cap... but i noticed a bit on the top of the dipstick today... so could it be water seals? or chipped tip? or both or someone stuck some pistons in there behind my back??
all i can help with is that the mayo on dipstick and filler cap is totally normal in the colder months and on short journeys after a long run it will clear out.
Does it sound like a tractor on idle?
its running a nur spec and straight through decat... it sounded like a tractor anyway lol! it does sound slightly different yes :(
Sorry to hear this mate hopefully it won\'t be the worst
loose ecu pin again? or maybe ur tps self adjusted itself?
hope its nothing serious.
I got this same symptoms before i mapped my pfc (the pfc was plugged in with base map). It was running too much fuel on idle and it sounded lika a tractor running very bad at idle. And it did smoke a LOT. After a reset of the pfc it went away, so i guess a map entry had gone whacko. After mapping it has never done this again.
mine only smoked on startup :( then after a few revs, it cleared and just sat there fine but low idle and lumpy :(
i was with batman when he chipped his tip and its not really like that... but oh i dunno, need to get a compression test done and see whats occuring i guess.
let me know if you want me to take a look for you, im only on the outskirts of bristol
sounds like the TPS is out and its idling on a load map
if you drop a rotor,, it will sound like a tractor and shake worse than a harley
it will also struggle to start, or stay running without the operator holding the throttle
and it will struggle to make boost !
it most definately will not drive "fine"
recalibrate the TPS, check the map sensor is plugged in without leaks
, if all this proves to be spec then get a real compression test
hnmmm but like i said im running a nur spec it sounds like a tractor anyway... it struggles to stay running as it drops so low and has cut a couple of times however if i put my foot on the peddle and get it to 1k and hold it still there it stays fine, but while the exhaust is going BURRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR every now and then you will hear a BLUP BURRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR when revving today it seemed less eager to rev... and i didnt drive it, i will check the tps... is there a guide? and im guessing the tps is the plug that goes in to the sensor closest to the throttle body?
the next sensor along from that (has a white 2 pin plug) is unplugged, when the apexi was on it was making it rev up and down constantly making it sound like it was in learn mode... i was told by a few people that was ok to unplug... i just want my baby back :(
FD or FC ?
if FC,, bridge the green set coupler near the coils and adjust TPS till less than 1 K oms
( green and black wires on the TPS )
PS two pin plug nearby sounds like the air temp sender
PSS also check that fuel reg has an intact vac signal,, as if its off the car will idle richer,, and boost leaner !
fd, the air temp sens is under the uim, then on the side of the uim is the unplugged sens... then the tps....
http://www.westpennmazdaclub.com/files/How%20To%20Check%20The%20TPS%20on%20an%20FD%20RX.pdf
Wonder if the TPS has gone on mine? Ran perfectly, started to miss on boost and ran badly with quite a bit of smoke then wouldn\'t start and still won\'t :(
get it comp tested malice look at mine seemed fine when it was going under powered drove sounded ok then uh oh . only way to tell for sure mate go see carl
TPS is highly unlikely to have suddenly gone out of spec.
I think a comp test is best bet to know for sure and work from there.At least by going that route you know for sure and can look elsewhere if motor is fine.
Regards
Carl
A very minor tip seal breakage such as a small chip at end of tip can run almost perfectly,but only idle and high load/boost being affected.
Regards
Carl
Maybe checked the vac liens towards the map sensor?
I had a small crack in min which I only noticed by bending the vac line.
Engine had thesame issues
Malice, try your boost sensor, that\'s what my problem turned out to be! If that has failed or is failing it\'ll cause the engine to run badly.......worth a look as at least it\'s easily accessable!
Dave.
na guys its dead, had it compression tested... rear rotor gone :( oh well in the process of sorting it all out, if anyone has a single turbo kit give me a shout :D
Quote from: MaLicE;681454na guys its dead, had it compression tested... rear rotor gone :( oh well in the process of sorting it all out, if anyone has a single turbo kit give me a shout :D
Awwh thats a shame mate :( ah well, time to increase the porting and bolt a bigger turbo on :rollin
when my engine sounds like that its due to one rotor or both being wet. and we get a chugg chugg running. cure by drying and cleaning the plugs or being towed for a bit.
:S not read what i said above? did a compression test its dead.
ouch, ouch sorry mate, i hope your luckier with your next setup.