1995 fd3s stock turbo,downpipe,de-cat,filters,backbox,front mount intercooler,apexi pfc,322bhp mapped by wgt.
Little help if possible please...
Basically having little issues with my sequential twins.
Problems such as
1: changing gear and not having a turbo, then having to gear down then back into the gear to get the turbo back. This is never a problem in 1st or 2nd gear. Seems to be worse on motorway going from 3rd to 4th.
2: When i had the car mapped 3 month ago it was really aggressive at pulling and just doesn’t seem so aggressive anymore..
The boost levels seem fine but just don’t seem right like the turbos not spooling fast enough. Not sure...
If someone could point me in the right direction in quite good detail please or ever had a similar issue would be very helpful.
Thank you.
any ideas anyone?? thanks
all random boost levels...
0.74 on nice driving 1st and 2nd gear...
0.84 on hard driving 1st and 2nd gear
0.94 sometimes if im giving some pasty in 3rd gear about 6000rpm
the PowerFC Boost setting i use says...
1: Primary 0.7 52%
Secondary 0.75 49%
Bump!! Still got an issue! is no one at all on this forum familiar with the sequential system? :(:(
It sounds like you have a solenoid playing up I had the same problem with my FD.
If there is a massive appreciable loss in power but the boost level is still high it\'s porbably only running one turbo and it will be well out of puff past about 4k rpm.
It\'s relativly normal to see slightly higher peak boost in higher gears due to the engine loading/loss of mechanical advantage (engine has to work harder making more exhuast gas, and also gives more spool time in higher gears hence higher peak boost).
Mine is a \'96 car with the revised rats nest though so the solenoid causing me problems might not be even in you car. The solenoid was underneath the pipe entering the front of the throttle body that goes across the top of the block. little green and black soleoid almost party popper shaped.
Otherwise are there any other strange sounds vibration etc?
ye its a strange one. Although i always get the kick and overboost on the changeover so i know the 2nd turbos working.
I have just replaced the pressure tank and a blocked check valve.. since then ive not had the problem loosing boost on gear changes.
But the car still dosent seem as fast as it was at all... But still making full boost.
What solenoid would cause a problem even though i am producing full boost?
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b322/nukinukinuki/IMG_8694a.jpg)
Thank you.
just a thought - and something that I reckon i\'m starting to notice! I can hear a new little noise, which I can only explain as slightly metallic ( you know what\'s coming don\'t you?! ..... I mean mine flies and hits the right sort of boost levels and all that ) but could it not be that the tubs are slowly on the way out? extra play .... therefore, still hitting boost but not pushing as much / air, therefore exhaust etc.... ??!!
therefore not quite as quick?
On mine it was the green and black check valve.
But as for how most of the rats nest works and how it could reduce the power output I remain willfully oblivious.
If you are producing full boost on both turbos and it seems slower it might be worth checking for a boost leak? Even though the boost IIRC is measured at the manifold (?) hence MAP sensor.
I\'m wondering if the random fluctuations in boost have caused it to run lean or super rich and caused some internal damage. Lean cuases det as you know but super overfuel can thin the oil too much and cause bearing and seal damage.
Other causes could be too much exhaust back pressure from a jammed or sticky wastegate/exhaust flap for the pre-spool on the twins. A fried cat full of soot (esp. if you have been overfueling), and a variety of elctrical and spark issues.
I\'d say take it down to you local specialist and get them have a look round it might cost a few bob but for piece of mind and diagnostic skills they will all out do me in all respects.
Possibly but I have only just put a new turbo pack on and had it mapped end of january and its been sound.
but sometimes i put foot down it actually feels really fast then other time it dosent.
You be able to tell if the turbos are on their way out, if you have decent shaft play you\'ll see the little puffs of oil escaping past the bearings and hence out of the exhaust. Spool up and lift off after being on boost are the easiest times to look out the back window and see it.
Quote from: nuki;680358but sometimes i put foot down it actually feels really fast then other time it dosent.
Might be worth changing the leads and plugs if you have spares to see if you\'re getting a bad spark, or pull them out and check the condition.
Yer i rememebr when my prev turbo pack went and if i stopped driving for 10 seconds i filled the road/motorway whatever up with flooms of white smoke.
Quote from: Lil-Steve;680361Might be worth changing the leads and plugs if you have spares to see if you\'re getting a bad spark, or pull them out and check the condition.
Ye thanks steve might just do this 2nite when i get back home and take a look at the plugs. i did change them in january before i got the car mapped but i will check anyway
It\'s blue smoke for turbos usually unless they are watercooled.
White usually BHG\'s on boinger engines and waterseals on a rotary.
as mentioned in previous thread.. could this be anything related with my Blitz dump valve (bov)???
If the BOV spring rate is too low you will loose boost pressure as it vents, you should be able to hear if it is loosing boost this way though, a hiss or shriek while at full boost should be very audible. Might be worth fiddling with the tensioner screw and see if it still has the sam problems.
so screw it which way? so the thread goes in (clockwise) or out (anticlockwise)? thanks.
Can\'t remember off the top of my head, have a look round on the web or failing that do it up a few turns if it\'s too weak you\'ll vent bost and it\'ll sound like it\'s venting pressurised air with loss of power.
Or if you do it up to much, you\'ll hear the WRC style "chirrup" noise when you lift off after being on boost or change gear at WOT. It\'s the pressure being veneted back through the turbos and out of the air filter, aviod if poss as older turbo designs may stall/damage may occur to the shaft and impeller.
Good chat here chaps and thanks Lil Steve - cheers for the pointer! I will investigate!!
Nuki - hope you find out it\'s something simple, like the BOV! ;)
Well at the moment if im on over run all i can hear is a constant "shhhhhhhhhhhhh" of leaking air out the bov...
when i accelerate , if i let off the acceleration at 3000rpm i get the "cha cha cha cha cha cha" sound out the air filters.. if i let off at about 4000rpm i get cha cha sphshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh"
But my turbos are that noisy at spooling im not sure weather my BOV is leaking out slight pressure or not...
If you are getting both effects it could be a knackered spring or sticking piston, take it out and strip it down and have a play see what\'s going in.
Failing that I\'m afraid it may be new BOV time. While your at it check the IC pipes for leaks and splits check couplings and jubeliee clips.
ye ive been thinking it could be the BOV because it does make serious amounts of noise compared to my mates! anyway i\'ll let you know! thanks for your help Steve much appreciated.
Why don\'t you do him swappsies for 20mins and see if his works OK? :Giggle
thats wht i just thort im guna do :P