Does testing the compression of an engine after a rebuild (still on engine stand turning fly wheel for instance)
Give an good enough indication that the engine rebuild has good enough compression? What sort of numbers am I looking for?
James
in a word no
you need to spin the motor at stratermotor rpm to get an accurate comp test assuming you have a proper rotary compression tester
the only way you can do it on the bench is to get a bellhousing, startermotor and a battery
c
Thought that would be the case...
Im definitly getting plenty of air coming out of the the spark plugs when i turn the motor, and with the spark plugs in it gets much harder to turn at points I guess because im compressing the air by hand...
I did all the rotors correctly, but I don\'t like the two peice apex seals, makes me paranoid they might have become dislodged somehow, especially relying on superglue to hold them while you get the middle plate over the Eshaft.. just asking for them to ping out!!!
Would be nice to have some sort of way to check it before I put it back in the car...
I can test the coolant system with those little vacuum pumps.. mityvac which is very handy, gives me confidence in that..
J
Quote from: imebgo;674504I did all the rotors correctly, but I don\'t like the two peice apex seals, makes me paranoid they might have become dislodged somehow, especially relying on superglue to hold them while you get the middle plate over the Eshaft.. just asking for them to ping out!!!
J
dude if they pinged out the motor would be locked up when you torqued it down ;)
if you use the preglued mazda 2mm\'s you usually hear 6 cracks of the glue breaking when you start tightening the motor down
Used rotary aviation seals.. glued them, cleaned off the excess and installed them as per the DVD, slotting them down with the springs and making sure the springs locate..
J
I didn\'t bother gluing mine - put the springs in on the larger piece, and slotted the small triangular shape part in before putting the next plate on. Held in with copious amount of white paraffin - they didn\'t try and ping out.
As has been said - if they did move, the engine wouldn\'t turn.
I am re using my 2mm RA seals - they were in excellent condition after about 21,000 miles.
If you hear 3 even \'schlomp\' sounds as you turn the flywheel - chances are it will be fine.
It\'s best to compresson test it after it\'s run in a bit - as the compression will go up slightly when everything has bedded in.
Did you buy the engine from Gaz in the end?
Nope, im not confident about the conversion to automatic, from the look of the plates you would need to remove material to allow for the starter motor to attach (?)
I think it would be easier the the way around... :)
James