Ok, my FD has been off the road for nearly 4 years now and im getting concerned about the engine seizing or an apex sticking. I used to start it every month but over the last 6 months its been flooding nearly everytime, i put this down to the 10\'s & 11\'s spark plugs that were in so they have just been replaced with 7\'s and 9\'s.
The last time it was actually started was 4 months ago because my battery died soon after and it sounded like a tractor as if it was running on one rotor! After 5mins it sounded normal again thank god!!!!
Ive tryed turning the engine over by hand but now its solid and wont move. With no funds left in the pot for a new battery let alone get the thing on the road (Bloody recession) what other options apart from selling for some magic beans do i have to keep the engine healthy?
Cheers guys
Scott.
i brought a trickle charger that keeps the battery charged at all times. I start it once a week.
I think minimum is getting a decent battery, disable the EGI fuse (so no fuel gets in), take the plugs out, putting a few drops of two stroke down the plug holes, and turning it over via the starter , at least that will get the engine turned and the oil pressure up, and some lube over the apex seals
And I would put in my opinion.....that it\'s disaster to keep starting an engine, the acid products left in the housings from cold running will be slowly corrosive. Much, much better, as above, to get as much oil into the engine rotors as posible and then to keep turning it occasionally by hand whilst putting more oil in.... I think what you have to do now is listen to BlitzBoy.
Hope your motor is OK.
So will i have to keep squirting two stroke in the engine every time i want to turn it over? Im assuming the oil will get pushed out the exhaust ports when you turn it over right?
Quote from: SCOOMER;663844So will i have to keep squirting two stroke in the engine every time i want to turn it over? Im assuming the oil will get pushed out the exhaust ports when you turn it over right?
Any oil really. Into the plug holes. Cheap engine oil, 2 stroke by all means, WD40 even. If you\'re then turning on the starter a mist will puff back out of the plug holes and no doubt out of the exhaust ports.
When it\'s time to put it back into service I would drain the old sump oil out and refill it, fitting a new oil filter. Then I\'d crank it over-and-over to clear the combustion spaces before re enabling the fuel system, putting plugs back in and firing up! Just watch the neighbourhood evacuate at this point.
And maybe if it\'s already sticking when turning by hand a little Redex or fuel additive from Halfrauds would be another alternative. I\'d put this in through the plugs neat.
Quote from: David Nock;663864Any oil really. Into the plug holes. Cheap engine oil, 2 stroke by all means, WD40 even. If you\'re then turning on the starter a mist will puff back out of the plug holes and no doubt out of the exhaust ports.
When it\'s time to put it back into service I would drain the old sump oil out and refill it, fitting a new oil filter. Then I\'d crank it over-and-over to clear the combustion spaces before re enabling the fuel system, putting plugs back in and firing up! Just watch the neighbourhood evacuate at this point.
doesn\'t WD40 eat oil?
the OMP is mechanical and should inject oil whenever the E shaft is turned. i\'ve never had any problem cranking by the alternator.
Quote from: jackaleks;663886doesn\'t WD40 eat oil?
the OMP is mechanical and should inject oil whenever the E shaft is turned. i\'ve never had any problem cranking by the alternator.
OMP is part electrical on the FD.
It wont inject enough oil by just cranking on a FD, The OMP barely trickles a few drops at that rpm of approx 250rpm, defo put 2 stroke or 4 stroke oil down the plug holes to get proper lube for storage.
Dont know the properties of WD40 so cant comment on this.
Quote from: BlitzBoy;663891OMP is part electrical on the FD.
It wont inject enough oil by just cranking on a FD, The OMP barely trickles a few drops at that rpm of approx 250rpm, defo put 2 stroke or 4 stroke oil down the plug holes to get proper lube for storage.
Dont know the properties of WD40 so cant comment on this.
oops, i stand corrected :)
regarding WD40, this is from personal experience as I\'ve used it a lot to clean up parts that are covered in oil and old grease. it still lubricates, but i wouldn\'t have thought it\'d do nearly as good a job as a decent two-stroke or engine oil.
I think the important thing for storage is to drive out any damp and acid residues, which WD 40 should do all right. I\'m saying in the above posts that before firing up you need to get all contaminants like WD 40 out of the engine.
The beauty of WD 40 is the pressure blast out of the little flexitube, right into the engine. So maybe the best advice allround would be to use a spray oil rather than WD 40 into the plug holes.
Must get some for my 12A in store (which is fully WD\'d up).
Is it safe cranking the engine over without the plugs in, egi fuse and the HT leads hanging?
Im guessing the plugs need to be put back in after injecting the two stoke as you dont want moisture in the chambers right!?
I guess you\'re worried about the electrical system firing whilst it\'s cranking over Scoomer? I think I might be as well. (only got a carb/dizzy setup).
So how about this.....take off the plugs leads and mark \'em \'cos a crossed lead later on is disaster. Then take the plugs out and squirt a lube oil spray in. Turn it over by hand then loosely put the plugs back in to store it for longer. Repeat every 3 or 4 months.
You think it\'s tightened up inside? With the plugs out it should turn on the front belts.
When returning to service, as previous post about draining contaminants and refilling.
Hope that helps.
Dave.
Quote from: David Nock;664179I guess you\'re worried about the electrical system firing whilst it\'s cranking over Scoomer? I think I might be as well. (only got a carb/dizzy setup).
So how about this.....take off the plugs leads and mark \'em \'cos a crossed lead later on is disaster. Then take the plugs out and squirt a lube oil spray in. Turn it over by hand then loosely put the plugs back in to store it for longer. Repeat every 3 or 4 months.
You think it\'s tightened up inside? With the plugs out it should turn on the front belts.
When returning to service, as previous post about draining contaminants and refilling.
Hope that helps.
Dave.
Cheers for your help dave :Thumbs-up
Tryed turning the thing by hand and its soild, going to buy a battery and spin it over, hoping it slackens off after a few ZOOM ZOOM\'s with the battery so i can turn it by hand. hoping to get the thing on the raod this summer but im dreading MOT time. :Hammer
Cheers Scott
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/storage.htm