I have decided to buy an rx7 from a private seller, who has owned the car for 2 years.
I have been told that ROTECHNIKS MAZDA has done the rebuild work about 2 years ago, is this reputable builder????
I know that the company was reopened any advice on the builder????
Is there work any good? why was it reopened??
Rotecnicks were one of the good companys as far as I know, they were bought out by someone else, and seem to be doing a good job so far
Quote from: mmm;662195...Is there work any good? why was it reopened??
Why not reopen it. It wasn\'t closed because of the quality of their work if that\'s what you were wondering.
Most engine builders will give 2 years / 24,000 miles warranty, whichever comes first, so even if the engine is good, it\'s warranty will most likely be at an end now.
It would be worth getting a compression check done on the car if you can before buying it - will give an indication of the state of the engine, but chances are this one, if it hasn\'t been abused will be a good engine.
I\'ve done 20,000 miles on a Rotechniks rebuild.
David Rollings, the brains behind Rotechniks, is still there after their financial difficulties. I have been a Rotechniks customer for 4 years.
As Prof says, it is worth getting a compression check on any rotary you are thinking of buying.
Unfortunately this is still not a guarantee it won,t go pop on the way home...such is the nature of rotaries.
Looking at your location, you could be some way from a rotary specialist to get a compression check.
I think I read somewhere that compression testers for reciprocating engines are not suitable as they might wipe out the the tip seals.
Can anyone else on here confirm this ???
Martin H
Some of them are ok, if you look at the end that screws into the plug hole - it should not be any longer than a stock spark plug, and musn\'t have anything protruding beyond the end of the thread.
Also, with a stock compression checker, they are designed to \'hold\' the highest reading - which isn\'t what you want to do with a rotary. You can hold the pin on the gauge in, and then with someone cranking the engine - watch the pulses on the gauge - but you\'ll only get a rough reading this way. You are looking for 3 even pulses on each rotor and they should be strong - e.g. mid 6.5 BAR or higher at 250 RPM\'s.
The compression test should be done on the lower plug holes, with the throttle wide open and the EGI fuse removed (to prevent fuel and spark).
You can do a poor man\'s compression check - same procedure as above - e.g. remove lower plugs and EGI fuse, then have someone crank the engine floor the throtle whilst you listen for 3 distinct \'thwop\' noises (rather like the finger in the cheek popping noise). If it seems uneven then chances are it\'s weak on one or more rotor faces.
This youtube vid gives an idea of what you\'re listening for (it\'s a peripheral port, but the sound is similar)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCcfL37d0YE
Reference conventional testers this link I put up in 2004 may help
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3813