Thought I\'d put up a post - been working on this for several weeks on and off (mostly off - bloody weather ;) )
I had water seal failure - basically the engine combusion gases were pressurizing the coolant system. A rather too good repair of my radiator with chemical metal meant the pressure had nowhere to go - after only reaching 50 degrees C, there was a lot of pressure build up in the rad (this also means my rad cap is probably not working properly - to be investigated).
Anyway - the engine was one I picked up from Ben Lewis in late summer last year - it had done about 6-7K miles on a rebuilt and made good power in his FC. I got it fitted in the car in time for JAE last year, and it\'s given me a lot of trouble free miles and made some good power too. Just before it let go on the coolant issue, it was running over a bar of boost and felt strong. Compression was still pretty good despite the coolant blow by - which was odd I thought.
In any case - I had wanted to attempt an engine build so now was my chance. I took the motor out of the car with help from Mitch one wet weekend, and then set about getting it all apert. I had some issues getting the flywheel off - Mr Hayward\'s help on that job - very well received :)
Got the engine in pieces finally and set about listing the issues with the engine (some of these I fixed already, but just listing them for completeness)
- Missing Oil pan gasket - and wrong sealant used - white silicone (should have been the black RTV stuff
- Missing Front cover gasket - again wrong sealant used
- Missing O ring from front cover (the one inside the teflon ring
- Missing O ring from front stationary gear
- Oil Pan bolts on \'finger\' lose
- Some damage to the rear torrington bearing and the thrust plate
- Water seal lifted/twisted in one location on the inner surface - front iron
- Water seal leaked slightly on outer seal but resealed itself with crap on the rear iron
Now the good points:
- Rotor housings in generally excellent condition - no scoring / cracks around plugs - only one small amount of corosion near one of the spark plug seats where the metal is thickest.
- Irons in good condition - no cracks / damage on water seal areas
- Rotors had only a small amount of carbon build up - mostly on the combustion recess - very little elsewhere (seems my 2 stroke oiling mod was working well :) )
- Apex seals all good
- Side seals all good
- Corner seals - excellent
- No stuck springs
- Engine oil ways all unblocked
- Engine porting work looks good - well carried out
All in all it\'s been profitable to take it apart just to get an idea of what goes on inside these things !
I\'m not having a dig at the engine builder by the way - this car was making very good power and has been very reliable upto the coolant failure - the downside is that on a rotary this basically means pulling the engine apart to fix it. There were a few issues around the front housing - the torrington bearing - that could have been me when I did the fix in this area - a tiny bit of grit/dirt is all it would have taken - but the o rings / gasket / sealant issues were down to the builder.
I\'ll post up some piccies later - when I dig out the camera and get snapping away - tis too cold to go in the garage at the mo.
who did the rebuild originally?
Awesome news :D
Quote from: dubber91;660475who did the rebuild originally?
I think it was Powergains - but BenLewisMav will be able to confirm that. I don\'t know if I just reached the spot where the was enough boost to blow out the water seal - it\'s not unheard of. The seals themselves looked in good condition - no splits or marks on them - which suggests the engine was assembled carefully.
I can understand not putting a sump gasket on - not everyone does, and I think Ben was going to put a baffle plate on in any case, so perhaps the gasket was left off knowing that was going to be done. I got the baffle off Ben so I might use it on this build - still thinking about that one - it might go to Mitch instead - as he is aiming at higher eventual power than myself.
I think the small O ring for the oil feed on the front cover plate may have ended up in the sump, the 2nd one I put it ended up in the filter pedestal - so I am replacing the teflon ring as well, as I suspect it\'s not quite right.
As for the front cover gasket and Front stationary gear O ring - not sure why they weren\'t on the engine - in any case - I suspect if you pull apart a lot of engines you can find something amiss if you looked hard enough. All in all thought - this was a good engine - and hopefully will be again ! :)
Front stationary gear o-ring? Where does that go then?
Quote from: drtool;661777Front stationary gear o-ring? Where does that go then?
My bad - I always assumed there would be one - but on checking service manual and speaking to a people in the know - it doesn\'t have one.
Actually - I should have noticed when looking at it - the rear one has a groove for it to sit in - the front one doesn\'t.
Seems I made an incorrect assumption :spank
I thought the sump gasket was only goo ? There are proper gaskets but its usually better just to seal them up with sealant.
Have you any pictures ?? Sounds like fun. Are you doing any porting ??
Shaun
Well typically - I didn\'t get any pictures of the dirty bits - pulling the engine apart and degreasing it - which takes a while - incidentally - tesco\'s do some big black plastic containers that are excellent for cleaning engine bits in.
I got some piccies today - front and rear irons, showing the black hammerite, and the rotor housings - resplendant in their pink primer. They will eventually end up blue.
I\'ve also included a shot of the manifold I got from Alan at RS III - as mine is cracked quite badly - and alan\'s was mint apart from a rust coating - I gave it a good wire brushing, genolite and a coat of Halfrauds high temp paint.
Finally, there are shots of the bearing plate, and rear thrust plate showing signs of bearing damage, and a close up of the torrington bearing that\'s failed and caused it (grit got in somewhere and caused this).
OK - progress update.
On Saturday I built the rotors up - side seals / corner seals / oil control rings and their rubbers. It was such a messy job, I didn\'t get any pics till I finished - I will plonk them up later. When I took the rotors off the engine - I put each one in a seperate place, and kept all the seals sorted. When I was sorting out which springs were for front and which were for rear of each rotor, I found another issue with the old build - the inner springs were the same for front and back of each rotor - in other words - one of the springs was wrong on each rotor. This has been rectified now ;)
I used red rubber grease for the oil control ring rubbers, and good old petroleum jelly for the other seals.
Sunday was spend cleaning up the paint edges ready for assembly - put the oil pressure regulator, and rear stationary gear in and torqued up those bolts. Also started cleaning the through bolts - all 18 of them.
Monday - Finished the cleanup of the through bolts, and put the new washer/o-rings on today. Fitted rear oil seal to rear iron.
Then it was engine assembly time !
Some pics to follow when I get them off the camera - but working outside in the garage with no heating - I am chilled to the bone and velly velly cold.
Block is back together - but flywheel still needs to be torqued up. Then it\'s setting e shaft clearance tomorrow hopefully - and getting the front cover back on.
looking good Dave , keep up the good work :D
how are you finding it so far , i know you are clued up on elecs etc.. but what about engine building - or have you entered this pretty much blind ?
Quote from: grinder;666177looking good Dave , keep up the good work :D
how are you finding it so far , i know you are clued up on elecs etc.. but what about engine building - or have you entered this pretty much blind ?
One eyed I should think - :Giggle
I\'ve watched the rebuild vids several times, followed Aaron Cakes thread on his website - linked off of Rx7club - read the haynes guide and the FSM - but nothing prepares you for how fiddly this job is :3Confused
Apart from having to get a few special tools, and the engine stand - it hasn\'t been to bad - just the stupid flywheel.
I want to pressure test the engine before I put all the ancillaries and manifolds back on - just need to cut some ally bits to go over the water pump holes and the inlet manifold area - that should do the job - then blank off the heater hose on the rear iron and use the top water pipe to test it.
Yeah well done Dave taking this on. It nice to see that your getting through it ok. It gives the rest of us hope!
These first 2 show the rotor assembled - you can make out the other one in the bag - building them ahead of time and having them ready to go really makes the job of doing the engine much quicker !
Did these on Saturday afternoon (indoors)
I used petroleum jelly to hold the side seals and corner seals in place, and red rubber grease was used to hold / lubricate the o rings that seal the oil control rings - this stuff stops them swelling and allows the rings to be pushed in easily without sticking.
Rebuilt by Profsport :D
Again, apologies for not taking too many photos - it\'s hard to operate the camera when you\'re all greasy ;)
Still I\'ve taken a shot showing the front housing on the front iron, then with the rotor in it ready for the eshaft to go in - then it\'s a fiddly job to get the apex seals into the rotor with their springs - used new springs for those - as the others looked a little discoloured - although I\'ve cleaned one up and they don\'t look to bad - so will most likely use them for the other engine.
Pic of the 2nd housing in, then it seemed to go quickly - so final shots show the block back together and all through bolts torqued up - in 3 stages - 13, 24, 36Nm - makes for a more even torquing up - and it\'s what the FSM and rebuilt vids recommended too.
One more - a closeup of the engine top - showing an oil injector port - also, on the middle iron, I extracted and cleaned both the fuel injector furniture pieces - the mixing plate and breather which has both it\'s o rings replaced - the old ones were rock hard and not really sealing much of anything - I think it\'s common on older fc\'s to see weeping from the injector bases because of this. I will be doing the ones on the LIM as well.
You can also see the small water hose on top of the rear iron - I\'ll be using this to pressure test the engine.
good looking rebuild prof! fair play to ya, this is spurring me on to start on my series 4
Thought I better put some more pics up.
These next few are from how I did the coolant systme pressure test - basically a £15 central heating pressure test gauge, car foot pump, an old spark plug, a pair of corks and a 3x4 inch plate of ally plus some clear silicone adhesive/sealant.
The 3x4 ally plate goes under the water pump - mark out the holes and drill accordingly - you need to mount the water pump on top of it to hold it down - and I used the silicone to seal it up good. The thicker the plate the more successful this will be.
The corks fill the 2 water outlets on the rotors - again, silcone sealant will help around the outside of the cork.
Make sure you put the thermostat and engine drain plug back in - I forgot :2Rolleyes
Then put the old spark plug into the end of the water hose that feeds the in car heater matrix.
Then attach a length of hose to the remaining nipple on top of the rear iron and attach the other end to the CH pressure tester - and pump away.
You are aiming to put between 0.5 and 1 bar of air in it - and leave it - see how long it takes to come out. Mine eventually leaked from under the water pump - should have used thicker ally ;)
Pics:-
Here are some more showing the bit\'s going back on the engine.
I forgot to take pics of setting the end play - which is a shame as it\'s an important step !
Still - you can see the engine develop as the ancillaries go back on !
Also, if removing the emissions stuff - there are 3 small vac holes that you should think about filling to avoid vac leaks - they are along the top edge.
Kind of off topic - but here\'s a pic of my hyrbrid turbo alongside the front end (compressor section) and CHRA of a stock turbo for comparison...
(Spot the shiny new oil feed adapator :) )
Yay I can see my legs lol plus a certain someone\'s turbo being cleaned :)
It\'s getting close to being ready to fire.
The following pics show the new plumbing to the fuel rails. I\'ve decided to mount the pressure regulator on the bulkhead to avoid straining the secondary rail. All hose and fittings are -6 AN
You can also see the water hoses - both to/from the heater matrix, from the turbo, and the radiator hoses will all be red silicone - thick walled. I will be doing the same with the small hose that goes through the BAC as well.
The front engine shot shows the -10 AN turbo oil drain nicely - but this needs to be cut slight shorter to ensure a downhill slope the whole way - I wasn\'t sure how the hose would line up with the power steering rack - and it\'s just touching - so shortening it will also correct that problem.
There is a close up of the HKS Fuel Pressure Regulator which has a gauge attached at the moment - that might be replaced with a sender to mount an electronic gauge internally - but for now will serve to set the fuel pressures up properly.
Got braided OMP lines to do, the vac piping, and the new 4 way boost solenoid to fit still.
YAY :D looks fab :) was a good idea to move that NISMO FPR to where you can get to it as well!
And it\'s turned into a brand new HKS one As well !
NISMO one for sale if anyone wants it ;)
My bad lol its shiny so I got confused :D
Well - thought I better put up some more progress pictures - as it was it\'s first attempt to fire it today...
I\'ve included pics of the braided OMP lines that I made up from AN3 Banjo\'s and some translucent blue covered braided lines.
You can also see the WI pieces that I\'ve now installed in the engne bay - I still have to do the intercooler sprayer - but that\'s for another time.
Current status :
Engine cranks ok, and oil pressure building to 30psi, but not firing.
Checked ECU error codes - I am getting a 32 - split air solenoid - so one of my resistors isn\'t connected up properly - easily sorted, and won\'t effect engine cranking.
Fuel system is working - so there is fuel available.
Need to verify that I\'ve got power to the coils / injectors, and according to Part 4 of the PDF - these are the things I should check:
1) Main Relay
2) Circuit Opening Relay
3) Water Thermosensor
4) TPS
5) Pressure Sensor
6) Intake Thermosensor Engine (IAT)
7) AFM
8) ECU
I\'m not getting error codes for TPS, MAP, IAT, CLT, or AFM - so I assume they are good, but I\'ll check the 5v Ref voltage from the ECU.
I did get the one error code, which suggests the ECU is alive and working, but it wouldn\'t hurt to lift the carpet and check it isn\'t bathing in water :Giggle
Need to check voltage is getting to the coils.
The only other thing I can think of is the CAS sensor - I did pull the wires out of the connector to repair them with heatshrink as there were bare wires showing on the engne loom side. I need to double check these are wired correctly.
Awesome thread prof, can\'t believe I only just found this!
Interesting to see the old engine looking colourful and new :D
For the record, yes it was a Powergains build (street porting *possibly* by Jaydee iirc)
Unfortunately I can\'t really help with the starting/firing problems as I went the Microtech route.. Any progress/luck?
Quote from: BenLewisMav;680679Awesome thread prof, can\'t believe I only just found this!
Interesting to see the old engine looking colourful and new :D
For the record, yes it was a Powergains build (street porting *possibly* by Jaydee iirc)
Unfortunately I can\'t really help with the starting/firing problems as I went the Microtech route.. Any progress/luck?
Definitely street ported :) - actually the work on the porting looks better / bigger than on my older engine - certainly on the exhaust side. From the looks of the Apex Seals - Rotary Aviation ones ?
The state of the engine when I did pull it apart was generally pretty good - so the 2 stroke mod seems to be doing well.
As for the starting issue - going to be attacking it again later. I\'ve checked some of the sensors in my list above - they are ok, so need to confirm I\'m getting power to the injectors/coils.
There is a good possibility it might be my disturbing the CAS wiring when I repaired it - and then putting it back (done according to the manual) in such a way as to have mixed up the signals - it doesn\'t even try to fire - just cranks nicely - so I do suspect it\'s an electrical/electronic issue.
really liking your omp lines.....did you assemble them?
Quote from: monterx7;680713really liking your omp lines.....did you assemble them?
Yes home grown - although If I did them again there\'s a couple of ends I\'d change to make the job easier. They weren\'t the cheapest - but they are going to last longer than my old brittle lines. :)
Were you not going to go for AN4 fittings instead of banjos?
Quote from: m1tch;680724Were you not going to go for AN4 fittings instead of banjos?
AN3 - but even they are too big on the OMP end.
8mm (M8) Banjo\'s on the OMP end - with AN3 hose fittings, and M10 on the oil injector ends.
The 2 on the rotor housings must have an angular offset - I used 20 degree - but you could go to 30/45 and have less bend on the hoses. Straights are ok for the two fittings on the LIM, but I would possible go with 20 degree in line bends on those if I did it again.
Also on the OMP end - I had to 20 degree and 2 straights, but I\'d swap the 20\'s out for in line 20 bends (the an fittings comes out at an angle in line with the plane of the banjo - not turning up away from it.
Well it fired up after sorting out the CAS wiring (Thanks Papercutout for the pic of your wiring).
Thing is it was shortlived as I had to shut off after only 2 mintures when I noticed oil coming out at quite a rate from the area of the oil filter / sandwhich plate - looks like some of the blanking bolts are leaking big time.
Waiting on battery recharge before I can try firing it again.
Vid on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu-PWDHnB3w
Fair play mate well done:Thumbsup!:Thumbsup!:Thumbsup!
YAY PARTY :D Well done mate! :D I hope you remembered to close the front door this time :rollin
Quote from: m1tch;680773YAY PARTY :D Well done mate! :D I hope you remembered to close the front door this time :rollin
I did, also warned the neighbours so they could shut their windows - although it wasn\'t too bad
Quote from: Prof;680774I did, also warned the neighbours so they could shut their windows - although it wasn\'t too bad
Ah ok, how did you prime the OMP lines btw?
I didn\'t - but it\'s cranked so many times and fired a bit - that there will be oil in them now.
This is why people use Engine assembly lube - it gives the engine lubrication during the initial startup stages.
Well done Dave. Nice to see her fired up again. Congrats.
Flooded it trying to get it restarted after shutting it down so early on. I think I\'ve fixed the oil leaks, but really need the engine running so oil system is at full pressure before I know for sure. If it still leaks then I will take the sandwich plate off and run without it for now.
Also, my battery is quite drained - it\'s getting old, and took ages to recharge - so might be off to get a new one tomorrow night.
Will pull the plugs and check them for fuel, clean them up, and crank the engine to make sure any fuel is out.
Wooooo! Good work that man! Nice number plate you have too!
As a side note - whenever I do an oil change, I pull the HT leads out, crank the car over to get the oil round, then plug them back in after the oil light on the dash goes out, and it fires up first time. Admittedly that was on the BMW, but worked fine on the rex when I did that a few weeks back too!
good work dave :)
thats a familiar sound.. a fc trying to start and taking ages to start hehe
Quote from: papercutout;680876Wooooo! Good work that man! Nice number plate you have too!
As a side note - whenever I do an oil change, I pull the HT leads out, crank the car over to get the oil round, then plug them back in after the oil light on the dash goes out, and it fires up first time. Admittedly that was on the BMW, but worked fine on the rex when I did that a few weeks back too!
It\'s a good technique - I did \'prime\' the oil system first by cranking it without the EGI fuse to get the oil around the engine.
I think the problem now is that I\'ve flooded it and fouled the plugs, so I will have to pull them, clean them up and give it a crank to clear out any fuel in the rotors. Also need a new battery, as my current 5 year old offering is not lasting very long between charges. I could hear the cranking rate drop as it tried to start.
It did fire up late on Sunday one more time - but I let if dye off before I could catch it, and by then the battery was well gone.
Oh well - a bit more delay is all. :rolleyes:
Well - finally got a new battery and a dry evening to fit it.
Car started up fairly quickly with a bit of persuasion - but as the engine warmed up - the car wouldn\'t hold idle and started to drop out.
I had the laptop plugged in and was watching the AFR\'s - as I let off the accelerator and the revs drop below 1500, they go lean and the engine cuts - so I\'ve a fuel / air mix problem. Could be a vac leak, need a dry day and some time off from work to spend a bit of time on this one.
Fuel pressure seems ok - will have to make a list of things to check. Vac reading was strong with the higher revs - about -0.8, and the even thwop thwop thwop I had when cranking it to deflood it makes me think the engine compression is good. Will have to try and measure it properly next weekend.
this is an awesome thread. greats on the start dude. :D
Latest update:
Got a thermostat neck from Tim at RX Motors - cheers for the propmt delivery :)
So got that fitted on Thursday night - as it was dry and weekend was predicted to be a bit on the wet side.
This morning I pulled the spark plugs and checked them - they seem ok - a little discoloured - so cleaned them. Pulled EGI fuse / cranked - no big clouds of vapour - so not flooded this time. Popped plugs back in. Checked for air leaks - as it wasn\'t holding idle when it warmed up. Found one suspect T clamp where the compressor outlet meats the intake pipe that goes to the intercooler - so loosened it off - wiggled it and the hose back into the best positon and tightened it again.
I also got rid of my fuel cuts from the primary injector map - can always add them back in later.
Since I redid the vac pipe to the Blow off Valve, I wanted to check that I\'d got that in the correct nipple on the front of the throttle body - so it was off into the loft to find the spare one, and look at the spacer that goes between plenum and throttle body - so I could work it out properly - it seems the US guys on rx7club get very confused over what nipple does what - and the JDM TB\'s are different to their\'s as well. It would appear that one person over on that site does know what\'s what - that\'s NZConvertible - I confirmed his explanation by squirting air/carb cleaner through the various holes in the spacer. To be helpful to others - here are the results:
Back of Throttle body - nearest the bulkhead - starting from the top:
1) Secondary Injector air bleed - connected through to the intercooler side of the throttle body
2) Oil metering pump spider - thicker nipple than the others - this also connects through to the intercooler side of the throttle bodies
3) Primary Injector air bleed - again same as 1) and 2)
The above three lines are sometimes referred to as \'fresh air\' feeds - they will see boost if the engine is on boost - and mild vacuum on idle/cruise with partially open throttle plates.
4) Secondary throttle plate system - cold starting - this bottom nipple comes from the plenum directly - it will have hard vacuum when the throttle plates are shut, boost when the engine is on boost. It is used to provide a temperature regulated (via wax thermo device) vacuum to the actuator on the other side of the throttle body. It operates the first set of throttle plates to assist with cold starting by providing more air.
Front of the throttle body:
1) On my TII this was normally capped off - it connects to the plenum side of the throttle body - primary runners - it has hard vacuum when the throttle plates are closed
2) This line is a \'fresh air\' feed and goes to the top nipple on the purge control valve - It connects to the intercooler side of the throttle body.
3) This line goes to the smaller nipple on the bottom of the purge control valve - It is connected to the same place as 1) above.
If you have eliminated the purge control system - then these can all be capped off. You can use 1) or 3) for a BOV, pressure gauge or MAP sensor.
So with that confirmed - the BOV was ok and not the cause of any air leaks.
I also popped the pins on the AFM (air flow meter) connector - and squidged and cleaned them - to give a better connecton to the AFM. A bad AFM signal is apparently another cause of bad idle when warm.
Plugged the laptop in, reset the fuel map for primaries, and then started the car. Started straight up - and revved to 2000 - I let the car warm up normally - checking the AFR\'s - this time they are rich - like 10 to 11 - not uncommon for them to be rich for a cold start - but I kept an eye on them. I let the car warm up normally - rev\'s dropping gradually - it seemed to settle around 1200 rpm\'s - so I got the screwdriver and out backed the revs off - got it to around 900 - then reset the timng with the strobe gun - It was slightly advanced.
I waited for the temperature to rise to where the rad fans should kick in with the emanage - not coming on :( - so I\'ve a wiring issue / relay problem there - but let it warm up a bit more until my backup failsafe - thermostat in top radiator hose - kicked in and the fans came on :)
So I need to sort a wiring issue out still. But no leaks now - oil / fuel or water, and the car passed a restart test too - just needed a quick catch with the accelerator on startup - but it fired straight up. This is caused by my eliminating the PRC solenoid from the fuel pressure regulator vacuum feed - so I wasn\'t too suprised by that. It meant the car was warm at least ;)
Still to do:
- Fix emanage signal for electric fan control
- Check oil and water levels after running the engine
- Test drive it
I\'m a lot more confident about the engine build now, but time will tell.:Thumbs-up
This is great news mate, and you\'re really great putting so many tips and advice up! We really appreciate it!
Keep up the good work, can\'t wait to see this on the road this year! Our cabs would looks pretty sweet side by side!
Yeh - just needs a good paintjob, a wheel refurb, and a new windscreen (It\'s got a non MOT failure crack in the bottom right hand corner). It never ends....
Fixed the fan wiring - I\'d crossed over 2 wires - one that feeds the water injection 3 way solenoid and one that feeds the relay for the e fans. Good job I kept notes somewhere ;)
Still - it will at least be running for the first event of the year at Brooklands.
Speak to this guy about the paint: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/members/5628.html he\'s pretty damn good if you don\'t have someone lined up already. Reasonably priced and fully commited to his work!
Well - it\'s still running rich - but my test drive was about 2 foot back and forward on the drive - clutch isn\'t working correctly.
Went to bleed the system - and the pedal is moving far too easily with no movement of fluid from the master cylinder. If I push on the slave/release cylinder there is fluid coming from the bleed valve.
So - it looks like the Master cylinder is foobar. :mad::mad:
Well - I ordered a rebuild kit from WGT - which arrived Thursday, so set about the task of rebuilding it.
There isn\'t much to say on how to do it - follow the service manual and you are pretty much there. But here is a quick brakedown:
1) I removed all the parts to clean it up - but you may get away with just the main piston/spring replacement - which is what\'s in the kit. Anyway first thing to do is remove as much of the brake / clutch fluid as you can from the reservour - I used a pipette - you can use a syringe - but whatever you do don\'t get this stuff in your mouth !!
2) Undo the hard pipe from the Master cylinder - use a flared wrench for this - otherwise you risk rounding the nut. I think it\'s a 10mm (8 on the slave bleed valve).
3) cap the pipe with something to prevent it dripping everywhere.
4) To remove the Master Cylinder - it\'s 2 12mm nuts. They are a long way up behind the dash - so larger gents like me may have to remove the drivers seat to get in there - I laid on my back to get at them. I also packed the Master cylinder with some cloth against the upper inlet manifold to stop it flopping about.
5) Once the nuts are lose - go back into the engine bay and gently work the cylinder off the bulkhead - it will come out without taking anything off - well it did on mine.
6) Once the unit is off, drain as much off the fluid out as you can - You can also use a philips screwdriver or rounded rod to push the piston in and clear out more fluid - be carful - it squirts a long way.
7) Next job is to remove the circlip in the end of the piston - get the circlip pliers in place - then whilst holding it ready - use the screwdriver or rod to gently push the piston in - then remove the circlip.
8) The piston should now come out fairly freely, followed by the rest of the bits (clear plastic cap, black plastic cap and spring. These are what you get in the kit.
9) Now meticulously clean the cylinder - remove any old crap in there. Be especially careful not to get any moisture, oil or grit / fluff in here - it needs to be spotless !!
10) To assemble the parts again use brake fluid to lube them - or red rubber grease - as that\'s meant for brake parts.
11) As Halfors say - refit is reverse of removal ;)
12) Once it\'s all back together - bleed it fully.
Here\'s some pics:
Well done :D was that the last box to tick before it is back on the road? :)
Some mapping to do - tis still running very rich once warm - in the low 11\'s on idle - going to pull a bit of fuel in the primaries map rather than tweak the FPR - as I want the fuel at the top end ;)
Might have a pin hole in the rad as well - so once I locate it I shall stuff some quicksteel over it.
Hopefully that\'s it done then, apart from the fan controller, and WI controller - and of course my DIY igniter replacement - but that can wait for now.
Woo Hoo :3gears-rh Nuff said :):Thumbs-up
*big grin*
You beat Liam to getting it done ;) Good work mate! Brooklands?
I\'ll have to clean it - but yes - the rex will be at Brooklands as long as nothing goes wrong over the next couple of days.
Car feels good, but keeping it off boost for now and under 4000 rpm till it\'s properly bedded in.
Paint work looks dreadful now - really needs some TLC, but the running gear is good, and the engine and ancillaries are all ok.
thats good news dave :)
any reason your limit is 4000rpm than say 3500rpm?
you fancy taking on a new project? lol
Can you get a copy of your map dave, if you can pull out the IGL and IGT or whatever they call it. I just need to know what the basic FC ignition map is as all mine have been modified. Be interesting to see how far off they are from standard. I can send you some Excel based maps which are quite interesting on modified FC\'s and FD\'s with single turbos. If you have the A/F map as well then that be good too.
My car is boosting by 4000rpm, and thats almost stock!
Be good to see it though mate!
Quote from: L18M;688859thats good news dave :)
any reason your limit is 4000rpm than say 3500rpm?
you fancy taking on a new project? lol
Whenever Rotechniks did the engine builds. that was the limit they gave me - so I am just going by that to be honest. Also, with the bigger compressor on the turbo - it only just starts to make boost by 4000rpm, so if you creep up their slowly it\'s never really on boost.
Quote from: pdtaylor18Can you get a copy of your map dave, if you can pull out the IGL and IGT or whatever they call it. I just need to know what the basic FC ignition map is as all mine have been modified. Be interesting to see how far off they are from standard. I can send you some Excel based maps which are quite interesting on modified FC\'s and FD\'s with single turbos. If you have the A/F map as well then that be good too.
I\'ll see what I can get off for you - the timing maps are from the Blitz Access chip in the stock ECU - as I don\'t need to do much with the timing apart from a bit of retarding at higher boost levels. Because the Emanage is a piggy back, you are adding or subtracting from the map in the stock ecu, which I can\'t get to directly. What I can get is full logging of fuelling and timing from the stock ecu - so at any given load point I can see what injector duties and what timing is being used.
I did once plug a completely stock ecu in to see the difference between the stock timing and the chipped timing - and there is quite a lot of changes. Timing in the chipped version is more agressive - but also gets retarded at the higher boost levels that the stock ecu never usually sees.
Also, the crossover point when the secondaries kick in is very different to stock - much smoother transition. Also, the chipped ecu makes more use of the primary injectors at higher boost / rpm, where the stock ecu caps them and uses the secondaries for all the extra fuelling requirement. Explains where the extra horses come from ;)