hi guys this is going to be my first postof many on the road to getting my car started. Basically had all the engine out and ancillarys(sp?) put it all bck together put it in the car and no i find that it will turn over fine, compression sounds even and quite loud with the plugs out, which was a relief.
Any way down to the first problem, the fuel pump was not working at all so rather than go though the whole system i did the fuel pump rewire, now the pump works fine and i have lots of fuel pumping round however i on turn over i have no fuel going in so it must be the injectors not firing.
What would cause injectors not to work i have the ecu pulled out from behind ts panel so can easily check anythingon there.
Te other problem i thought it could be is maybe crank angle sensors not working therfore not telling the injectors to fire. is there any way to test them?
Recheck the injector wiring as the primary plugs will fit the secondarys and vice versa,
Hope this helps
thanks mate, the plugs may fit but the wiring doesn\'t and even if that was the case i would still get a fuel smell in the housings wouldn\'t i??. i think everything is connected up properly as far as i can see.
i have removed the rats nest ( chopped out all the old connectors) and the the OMP but i was told it should start and idle without these items just it will throw up codes.
I\'m not sure where to test really now. The injectors are not firering definately no fuel getting through.
How do you mean you have removed the OMP?
have taken it out and blanked it off.
When you chopped out the connectors - did you chop the positive feed to the injectors ?
They receive their grounding signal from the ECU, but the 12v positive feed comes from the fusebox via the main relay (EGI Fuse)
Pull one of the injector connectors, and with a multimeter or bulb, test you have 12v on one of the terminals with the other lead of the bulb/meter connected to ground (Ignition switched on).
also on another note it would appear the crank angle sendor is working because the rev counter moves ever so slightly on tick over. Could it all be down to a dead ECU??
Quote from: Prof;659224When you chopped out the connectors - did you chop the positive feed to the injectors ?
They receive their grounding signal from the ECU, but the 12v positive feed comes from the fusebox via the main relay.
Pull one of the injector connectors, and with a multimeter or bulb, test you have 12v on one of the terminals with the other lead of the bulb/meter connected to ground (Ignition switched on).
no the injector plugs are still complete and untouched. i will go test them now though.
ok test and i am getting 12v at both upper and lower injector plugs so i am getting power when the ignition is on and i have pressure in the rail but its not getting in to the chambers.
Oh - by the way - if you remove the OMP on a stock ECU - it won\'t just throw an error code (several in fact) it will go into limp mode for sure.
You need to connect both parts back in, as the ECU checks for the presence of the stepper motor and also expects a feedback signal from the variable resistor based on stepper position. It doesn\'t have to be plumbed back in to the engine mechanicals, but without it you should be running premix (2 stroke) or your engine will die very soon due to lack of lubrication.
Oops - should say that this is on a series 5 or later car (FC Turbo, Vert, or FD). Earlier cars had a mechanical linkage from the throttle - if you have that system then no error codes - but the premix requirement still stands.
yeah i have put 2-stoke in cheers. yeah i thought it would but as far as i can see it should still start shouldn\'t it?? with out it plugged in?
it still doesn\'t solve the problem that there is no fuel getting in to the engine.
Quote from: redgti;659230yeah i have put 2-stoke in cheers. yeah i thought it would but as far as i can see it should still start shouldn\'t it?? with out it plugged in?
It should start yes
Quote from: Prof;659232It should start yes
hmmm it\'s being a ....... then. i think it must be a dead ecu then. I have power to the injectors and pressure in the fuel rail so the only thing stopping it really is the ECU. not checked for sparks yet, but thought i would try and get fuel first.
If you have changed the plugs, might be an idea to check the leads are in the right order :)
i am pretty sure they are, but as stated above the first problem to tackle is the lack of fuel. i take the plugs out and they don\'t smell of anything just the oil i put in to lube everything ( it had been stood for a year)
Any signs that the ECU has been in water - Grinder on here had a car that wouldn\'t start and the ecu was sat in water.
You could pull the injectors out and test them - make sure they have a resistance across the 2 terminals.
Failing that - is there some immobiliser still wired in some how - I noticed you\'ve done the fuel pump rewire to get that to work - which is what makes me think it might still have another circuit cut somewhere ?
no the ECU looks fine think i will take it all out though and lift the cover off see what its like inside, I removed the alarm and immob already and made sure to reconnect everything back up. It is really a pain in the arse.
I think because i have done so many things to it it is just going to take ages to get it working. Going through everything one step at a time from the beginning.
your injectors may be seized...if u get an led and connect to the injector wiring it should flash when you turn the engine over (make sure the connectors are the right way round or they wont flash...) also if u take the injectors out (primary) and give them power direct from the battery they should click open and closed....tap the live on the battery to get them to click...if they dont click they are seized...if your cars ben sat its possible they have seized....do the led check first as it will determine whether the injectors are pulsing..if it flashes continuosly your injectors are goosed as they are recieving a signal...