Quick question about painting the rotor housings - what temperature paint is needed for this - from spot thermometer tests on the outside of the engine, it\'s not getting any hotter than about 80 degrees C - but I guess there are local hotspots, and in any case, I want the paint to be rated somewhat higher than the general service temperatures that I see.
I planned on leaving the area around the exhaust ports unpainted, along with the \'bottom\' of the rotor housings that are inside the oil pan area - dont\' want the oil ingesting the paint over time. :eek:
after advice from few other people i just used smooth hammerite and after 1000 miles no problems at all
Quote from: danny_m94;654926after advice from few other people i just used smooth hammerite and after 1000 miles no problems at all
Cheers for the that - I used Hammerite on my Brake Calipers and have had no issues there.
really .. ohhh thats interesting to know :D :D ( the brake side )
Quote from: grinder;654935really .. ohhh thats interesting to know :D :D ( the brake side )
Just give them a really good clean (soft wire brush and with white spirits on the outside) and mask off the rubber bits.
I used the spray tin stuff - smooth, and gave 3 or 4 thin coats - it drys pretty quick - so you can do it in a day :)
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55956&highlight=brake+rebuild
I know it probably won\'t help but i painted an engine with 2k car body paint a while back, it was just etch primed/painted and it still looks ok after 5000 miles. That said you have to make sure the engine is spotless clean and you use the right hardener.
I would also steer away from whites and very light colours as they do tend to yellow.
i did my brakes with just a normal paint think it was ford moonshine silver and a year on still look great. I wouldnt fancy using any brake cleaner on them though
Quote from: danny_m94;655133i did my brakes with just a normal paint think it was ford moonshine silver and a year on still look great. I wouldnt fancy using any brake cleaner on them though
The Hammerite is brake cleaner proof once it\'s dried, but not brake fluid proof, but then if it\'s leaking that badly you\'ve got issues anyway...
I used ordinary rattle can stuff on the FB\'s 13b. Good old Black and Yellow. 2yrs and 20k later it still looks quite good.
Shaun
Used brush on hight heat paint in the past, dont get as smooth a finsh but the depth of the gloss was amazing once dried and was as hard as anything.
Don\'t forget to make sure that calipers are empty of fluid if you take them off the car to paint, as prof found when some brake fluid leaked and started eating away at the newly drying paint hehe
On my engine back home in australia i used 2pk car paint on housings and plates and after 5 years since being built still looks the goods!
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af296/bo0557/motor.jpg)