Why has my FC3s suddenly lost the ability to start when it\'s cold?
it\'ll restart from warm no problem but when starting from cold it\'ll eventually fire..... rev for a split second and cut out again. It\'ll do this for about 3-4 mins until it begins to warm then it\'s fine again
Any ideas anyone?:confused:
Sounds like fouled plugs to me??
Maybe too cold a grade??
Hmmmm ........ Never thought of that.
Ring square seals?
(water in your engine when cold - takes time to leak back in hence when warm it\'s o.k) - mine does this! :(
mind you when it does do this it runs really lumpy too!
You have just described the problem I\'ve got!!!
Whats a Ring square seals?:confused:
Just spoke to pip he said the common fault with this symptom is the water temp sender being disconnected causing the ecu to think that the engine is already warm. Where is this sender so I can check it out?:confused:
not sure on this one - but according to one of the manuals it looks like it sits on the back top of the water pump ( thing with the fan connected to it ) but its called a water thermosensor connector !
happy hunting :)
cheers mate
got the clutch thingy in bits right now, just trying to figure out how to put it back together again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
good luck matey - you may need it :)
Right, the master cylinder is back together (just needs putting back in the car!! WAHOO!
Only problem now, is I\'ve lost nearly all the fluid and I don\'t have any and I can\'t nip out to get some cause theres no clutch fluid in my car D\'oh!:spank
not the best of idea\'s
what the famous thing when doing stuff....
Step 1 - Make sure you have all equipment at hand before starting job ( jack , spanner , new fluid )
:)
Stu
It\'s okay... I walked to the local petrol station, they had some:rolleyes:
All thats left now is the cold start problem!
ring square seals...
This is the problem with mine. Rotechnics diagnosed this one when the coolant leaked out. The ring square seals are the engines equivalent to a head gasket and separates the combustion chamber from the water courses in the rotor housing.
Mine have deteriorated with age with the result being that - after not being used in a while - the coolant leaks into the combustion chamber and makes the plugs wet etc. This makes it lumpy when cold.
As the engine warms up then the coolant will just be burnt off as steam providing a leak is not too bad.
Mine is not too bad at the moment - I only get this problem after 3 - 4 days of the car not being used but whilst I save my pennies for a replacement engine (yep it gets that bad) I\'m running around in a vw polo (1.0!!!)
...It\'s o.k my ego can stand it - I have strength of character... and despite what my wife says about the size of the wing on the back and it\'s relationship to the size of my... well you know... it\'s now so clearly not true. By driving a vw polo daily I must have the biggest...
I\'m going on too much I think!
i hopw thats not seans problem - it only got rebuilt about 5 weeks ago :)
Stop trying to scare me!!!:(
is it working ??
Horn works, Clutch works, cold start........ I don\'t bloody know!!!!:reallymad
have you got the electrical gremlins sorted out yet ?
Shhhhh!!!:o
sorry matey !! :)
BUT in your defence - at least you are trying to fix yours - i just moan about mine but never have the time to fix it !
did you find that thermo switch thingy ??
Only had a quick look......... think I\'ve found it, but to get to it you need to strip half the f\'in engine ....... again!!!!:reallymad :reallymad
just to make your day even better
try this
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/errorcodes/main.html
this will tell you if the sensor is shot at or now - you will need to get some LED\'s though ??
have a read and let me know what you think :) :)
Thats a fantastic link mate! (should be a sticky somewhere)........... now, where did I put my supply of L.E.D\'s?:(
humm maybe i should speak to the other mods about having a sticky with the error codes
good idea sean !! :)
Told you I\'m not just a pretty face .... ahem!:o
i have spoken to the other mods about it - so if they agree then yes - very good idea - if they decline .... YOUR BANNED - ha ha ha
sorry matey - been one of those days so far :) :) :)
So sorry Mr. Super Moderator Sir!:spank
you know i dont mean it matey !
i would never do that to any one - its my job to make sure that stuff go in the right place and such like :)
How much do you get paid?;)
paid ....... ha ha ha
on a serious note - dont get paid anything - its the inner happiness knowing that i am helping others achieve a good working Rotary forum
at the end of the day - this is a great place to learn things - and i would hate to see anything bad happen to it
so its like when people help me , i repay by helping clive keep the forum running smoothly
well thats my attitude to it anyways :)
Hmmm. I could think of a few replies (but I don\'t want you to start using that ban button of yours) LMAO!:rollin
ha ha ha ha ooohhhhh dear !
you got the car running yet ?? ( yes to keep this topic on track ! )
Sorry sir!
Just the cold start prob left to eliminate till perfect running TII:(
i wish you luck matey !
do you fancy fixing mine when you have done yours ?
last but not least ...
If your check engine light is coming on at idle you need to find out what it is telling you.
To do so for RX-7\'s from 1988 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.
Ground the connector on this wire (the wire will be hanging free, without its connector hooked to another wire) on the chassis, using a jumper wire, etc.
Sit in the car and turn the ignition switch on WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR. Immediately watch the check engine light. If everything is OK, it will not light. If it starts flashing, count the flashes. It may stop flashing for a couple of seconds, then start again. Each of those series of flashes is for a separate engine fault code. Multiple codes will display in order from low number to high.
Have a paper and pen handy, and write them all down. To check again, turn the ignition off and then back on. It will repeat the cycle.
Identify the first (tens) and second(ones) digits of each code as follows: The first (tens) digit will display (flash) for about one second for each count, with a one-half second pause between counts. For example, if the first (tens) digit is three, there will be three separate one second long flashes, separated between by one-half second pauses.
There is then a 1.6 second pause between the last flash of the first digit and the beginning of the second (ones) digit.
The second (ones) digit counts flash for only one-half second each, with pauses of one-half second between them. For example, if the second (ones) digit is seven, then there will be seven flashes of one-half second, separated by pauses of one-half second.
In this example, the displayed code will thus be "37".
The system will then pause for four seconds before proceeding to the next code, if any.
To clear the stored codes from memory, disconnect the negative battery cable, then wait for 5 seconds. It is useful to do so even when you have just retrieved the codes, but not fixed anything yet, to be certain the codes (problems) persist. Stored codes could represent several different problems that have arisen at different times. Just drive the car a bit, and see which codes persist.
Obviously, once things are fixed, you need to clear the codes a final time to be certain it is in fact fixed, and to know that any new stored codes have occured after the fix.
Mazda RX-7 codes (from Haynes Computer Codes Manual #10205) are as follows:
1 Ignition coil (trailing side)
2 Crank position NE sensor
3 Crank position G sensor
5 Knock sensor
8 Airflow meter (AFM)
9 Water thermosensor
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)
11 Intake air thermosensor (engine)
12 Throttle sensor - full range
13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor (built in ECU)
15 oxygen sensor
17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
23 Fuel thermosensor
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
26 metering oil pump stepper motor
27 Metering oil pump
28 Solenoid valve - EGR
29 Solenoid valve - EGR vent
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)
37 Metering oil pump
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39 Solenoid valve - relief 2
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
46 Solenoid valve - charge relief control
50 Solenoid valve - double throttle control
51 Fuel pump relay
54 Air pump relay
65 Air conditioning signal
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary
76 Slip lockup signal
77 Torque reduced signal
Use the codes to direct you in fixing the car. Also remember that disconnected hoses, misrouted vacuum lines, or internal engine problems can be present without causing a code.
Flippin eck!!!!:eek
I found a loose green plug as described before behind the water pump. Just need to wait for her to cool down now:(
That means not driving it:burnout
Now the only things wrong with the car are the interioir lights mystery and the blowing exhaust!:cool
could be worse matey - you could have my car
went to jack it up last night to look at the front wheel bearings and managed to practically put the jack thru the front jacking point - had a look underneath and i could push my thumb thru the sill
then went into the centre of the car and it looks a right mess of rotting metal
not impressed :(
and it says
To do so for RX-7\'s from 1988 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.
so you need the engine warm - not cold :)
Bloody hell !!!!!!!!!!!!
I\'m not doin all that. I\'m tryin to get it to work, not find more things that are wrong with it!!!!!!
I am sorry to hear about your motor ("price removed" who\'s laughing now hehe) ahem!
Seriously though ......... how long is the current MOT on it?
its MOT till september - so not sure what to do
run it till then and scrap the car - its done its job ?
or speak nicely to a few people and try and get it welded back up - the next door neighbour has a welder - so i might as him to have a play
at the end of the day - im gonna have a real good check tonight and see how bad it is - it may not be as bad as i thought - it just really scared me
oh yeah - i have taken the price out of the above post ( cause i can !! ) - no point telling every one what i paid :) :)
Sorry mate.
Didn\'t think it was that obvious that I was reffering to the price of your car.
See ......... your doing your job as a moderator already!!!!:cheers
If worst comes to the worst with your car, you know that it\'ll be worth more on here as parts than scrap value!
Lets face it ...... theres plenty of bits that I could use right now (have you finished with that exhaust?):D
i dont think its that ready for the scrap heap - i will have a better idea by tonight though !
the biggest problem is that if this one goes - im not buying another rx7 - so i must try my best to keep this one
you got yours running right yet ? or did you try that last ecu check thingy ?
Just waiting for the car to cool down so that I can attempt another cold start.
If thats fixed then I\'m happy that the engine is right!!!:god at long last!!!!
When the exhaust is done, i\'ll be happy:D
ah right ! :)
so whats wrong with the exhaust - is it just blowing ?
and was it the thermosensor that was making the cold start difficult
just out of interest - when you start it - do you keep the clutch pressed ??
Yes it\'s just blowing at a join that you can\'t get at on the ground, needs to be in the air - nothing pip couldn\'t do in 5 mins
And yes it was the thermosensor folks - so any one ever has the same trouble, look for a loose green plug in between the alternator and the water pump!
And yes I do press the clutch in. I do this on any vehicle with a clutch - it saves wear and tear unduely on the starter motor ( if you want to beat an egg, do you move the bowl with the egg inside it, or do you move the whisk)
Confussed?:confused: I am!
ah right
only reason i ask about the clutch
1) when you press the clutch the car starts and run
2) when you leave the clutch out and start it - it does a warm up sequence - which runs the engine at about 2.5 - 3K for about 10 seconds just to get it warm
glad you found the source of the problem though :)
so the car is going back to pips then for the exhaust - can any exhaust place not do it ??
I\'ve tried all the local garages, they get it on the ramp and see how awkward it is and say sorry, you\'ll have to take it to Mazda. But when you take it to mazda their "engineers" say " whats that?":reallymad
ha ha ha sounds about right to be honest :)
and i suppose pip is very local for you
My best time so far is 3minutes and 42 seconds lol:rollin
thats impressive :)
i wonder why all your thread turn into between 5 - 10 pages ???
What are you trying to say?:(
ammusing matey - very ammusing
youve been taking lessons of scooby_si
Right!
Cold start is now purfect!:D
Took roof apart to look at the light phenomon! WTF!:reallymad
I\'m getting one 12V signal and one dead signal regardless of ignition, I take this to be normal.
If you open the door (second signal should change to 12V also at this point) everything dies :reallymad What the Hell!!!!!!
your keen on matey - you really are !! :)
i take it you have checked all the fuses down in the drivers footwell ?
eye!:wiggle Next?
bad earth on the door switches ?
That\'ll be first job tomoz
I\'m off to shop and sleep till tonite
Nite nite
@@[smiley: Sleeping: [7/7_11_5]]
take care matey :)
(http://www.click-smilies.de/sammlung0304/schlafen/sleeping-smiley-012.gif) (shh while he\'s sleeping apparently he\'s too tight to afford my tuition fee!!!!

lol)
Si
seriously thou good luck with your mission.......
SI ! I\'ve got all theese smilies on my computer but they only seem to work on messenger, why not on here?
Help me oh great one:god
Oh yeah, and the interior lights still dont work, and the cruise control switch has just fallen out of the dash, and my sunroof just got stuck in the open position!!!!! But I\'m getting there!:rolleyes:
lol well young padawan the path to enlightenment is long & he who doesn\'t learn art of smilies via long & painfull calculations will come by a painfull & drawn out death.
Erm or i could be talkin crap, occasionally happens (http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/dung.gif)
But basically you need a website (or more

) which will give you a link with image codes that you can then put in yer message & the smilie you\'ve selected will appear when posted...
Here\'s one to help you on yer way (http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/how.gif)Not sure how MSN does it i recall they\'re actually part of the messenger set up so when you do the shortcut it comes out with an appropriate smilie similar to the ones which are actually part of this board so where : p without the space becomes :p
Si ((http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/offtopic1.gif) but hey he asked.... lol)
Do you mean like this?(http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/MexWave.gif)
yeah baby

lol
Si
http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/Sounds/tnbd.wav
ohhhh dear god !!!!
(http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/jump.gif)
I think this may be the dogs bits for getting mine sorted!!! Thanks for the link Stu (grinder)! :D