after a third gear clutch kick my clutch started slipping so i think its time to replace it but what are my options?
Depends on power output and also what you use the car for.
Exedy Organic is a good tough clutch and will last quite some time, but doesn\'t last so long if you do a lot of tough drag launches.
I had a cheap ebay Carbo Metallic clutch which was rated for 400BHP/400ftlb and was suprising good - it managed 8psi (about 230 bhp) on just 5mm of the disc as I had a lipped flywheel - so it\'s probably as good as it\'s word.
The stock Mazda one for a TII certainly doesn\'t hold more than stock power for too long.
And if you want to go silly - there\'s always puck or unsprung clutches - but be prepared for the failure point to occur somewhere else ;)
well the car gets used for drifting i know the car had an uprated clutch of some sort from a company called centre force in the states
and as for flywheel choices is it worth uprating that at the same time do any fd parts fit etc
i got a fairly decent used one kicking about.
if ur fc is gonna be stock for a while then bang for bucks until u upgrade the tub etc..
offers welcome :)
cheers liam but i think i will just get a new uprated one just been out in the car again and it seems ok so ill just try to stop myself clutch kicking like its hoing out of fashion lol
and well you know the spec of the car already i think its basically goy every bolt on go faster accesory just need aa turbo and injectors aand remappable ecu next
If you\'re planning on going for a bigger tub in the near future i\'d probably reccomend something more meaty like a paddle clutch. But if you plan to keep the same power for a while I\'d suggest an exceedy organic. Got one in mine and it\'s spot on.
As for flywheels I have no idea
Quote from: the hat;652157well the car gets used for drifting i know the car had an uprated clutch of some sort from a company called centre force in the states
and as for flywheel choices is it worth uprating that at the same time do any fd parts fit etc
The FD flywheel fits, you just need the auto box counterweight if you are going for a lightened flywheel.
If you are going to be using it for drifting, I know JM garage has a £1200 clutch that is pretty much amazing with about 300 miles on it, selling for about £600ish - might be worth it for drifiting as you can either spent a lot to begin with ie £600 or spend £400 on 2 clutches plus fitting time, so its best to go for the best to begin with :)
problem is mitch im a bit of a pikey when it comes to clutches and dont mind working on the car lol
my freind had a spare paddle clutch but was on his egi any ideas if its of any use
need clutch fixed for crail
Quote from: the hat;652342problem is mitch im a bit of a pikey when it comes to clutches and dont mind working on the car lol
my freind had a spare paddle clutch but was on his egi any ideas if its of any use
need clutch fixed for crail
I would recomend getting the carbo-metalic clutch off ebay that prof used, I saw how much of the clutch was actually in contact and how much power it held :) they aren\'t expensive either, but I would recomend a lightened flywheel if you are going to use it for drifting mainly, it will help the engine spin up :)
The Carbo Metallic one was from F1 Racing - it was £125 ish for the clutch / cover pressure plate / release bearing / pilot bearing / alignment tool - so a full kit !!
There were some good recommendations for it on the S2000 club in the US, and I only found one bad report where it smashed up a Del Sol bell housing - but that could have been mis fitted.
do you have any links as ive looked but cant find it
and as for the flywheel i have just been to the bank its gonna have to wait gutted
Quote from: the hat;652355do you have any links as ive looked but cant find it
Here you go :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RACING-CARBON-CLUTCH-KIT-86-92-MAZDA-RX7-TURBO-FC_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2551462df7QQitemZ160277343735QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
This is the exact one I got.
Also, just to add, the clutch has a relatively light feel to it - so you won\'t break your leg trying to change gear ;)
got sorted with a paddle clutch
ordered clutch release bearing from mrp todat so should hopefully fit clutch om sat here is hoping its easy it looks it anyway
If you can borrow or rent a transmission jack it makes the job a whole lot easier ;)
I have to take exhaust, heat shields, prop shaft off and then drop the gearbox on the jack to get at the clutch - I\'m guessing you may have similar pains - although some folk with a single exit exhaust and no heatshields have it a lot easier
i have a single exit exhaust no heatsheilds and a transmission jack and 2 post ramp lol so i reckon it should be easy enough
Quote from: the hat;652601i have a single exit exhaust no heatsheilds and a transmission jack and 2 post ramp lol so i reckon it should be easy enough
Just remember that if the prop shaft drops down on the floor, make sure that the metal collar around the splines is actually round, else it will be impossible to put the two back together - as prof and I found out :Hammer
Quote from: m1tch;652678Just remember that if the prop shaft drops down on the floor, make sure that the metal collar around the splines is actually round, else it will be impossible to put the two back together - as prof and I found out :Hammer
Yeh - that was a bit pooey :spank
ok cool cheers for all the help folks ill let you know how i get on
Yeah id seriously think about a gearbox jack if (when) i have to do the clutch again.
Its no fun trying to get the f****r in position laid on your back with a heavy gearbox on your chest and the tail housing thing between your legs! Oh i also got covered in stinking gear oil taking it off.:D
Its an awkward job to do on your own to say the least!
I did it with the rear tyres on breeze blocks, just one layed flat. With axle stands at the front.
I Think the hardest part of the whole job was trying to wiggle the box on that last half inch, it just wouldnt go in.
I must have spent two hours on my back and got nowhere! gave up and went inside.
Next day tried again slid right on in 2mins! then it was a mad dash to get some bolts in while holding it in place with my knee while and getting the stock scissor jack to take the weight.
Fun times!!:Hammer
latex glovs from supermarket / chemist / costco, and walk around your estate looking for the red elastic bands the posties throw away ;)
Stick the glove over the gearbox end and secure with rubber bad :Thumbs-up
I too have had the \'gear oil\' experience
Yeah good idea. My experience got worse! i then put my oil covered jeans in the wash and made the house smell of gear oil!
Girlfriend was not a happy bunny! :D
Quote from: 1990_fc3s_t2;654016Yeah id seriously think about a gearbox jack if (when) i have to do the clutch again.
Its no fun trying to get the f****r in position laid on your back with a heavy gearbox on your chest and the tail housing thing between your legs! Oh i also got covered in stinking gear oil taking it off.:D
Its an awkward job to do on your own to say the least!
I did it with the rear tyres on breeze blocks, just one layed flat. With axle stands at the front.
I Think the hardest part of the whole job was trying to wiggle the box on that last half inch, it just wouldnt go in.
I must have spent two hours on my back and got nowhere! gave up and went inside.
Next day tried again slid right on in 2mins! then it was a mad dash to get some bolts in while holding it in place with my knee while and getting the stock scissor jack to take the weight.
Fun times!!:Hammer
Before Prof got a gearbox jack we tried it with some trolley jacks and some wood...not good, almost flattened us both :(
gloves over the end of the gearbox dont be silly i have thge right plugs for the job but cant get cracking till im home from offshore pretty gutted that i was sent back out early but oh well cant complain im getting paid
fitted the paddle clutch last night no more slipping but is a bit juddery when you try to let it up slowly not sure if thats normal
also there was a set of weird sliding weights held together in a circle by a wire on the old clutch is that supposed to be fitted to the new one as it seemed like a nightmare to remove
anyone ? ill try and get apick of the weights today
Quote from: the hat;656177anyone ? ill try and get apick of the weights today
Hi,
got no eyes to see it here but belived that\'s a Centreforce product you have got with wee lead counterweights and try not to remove it as it\'s aid champing force when it\'s increase with engine\'s speed.
do a few 100\'s miles drivearound to give paddle disc a setting in to stop the juddery.
hope it helps.
Iand
aha thanks buddy yeah the clutch is not juddering anywhere near as much now and is working perfect buddy
do you think it would be worthwhile trying to fit the weights to the paddle clutch i got from you
andf yes your correct is was as centreforce clutch that was in it it was strange tho one side of the friction plate was like a paddle clutch and the other was like a standard clutch
still wanting your shell if i can ever raise the cash
Sounds like you had the centre force dual surface clutch in there - one side is supposed to aid slipping and the other to take higher abuse on track or drag strip
it was a good clutch nice and easy to drive with and stood up too a hell of a lot of abuse i mean loadas of clutch kicking and shift locking i would recommend one