hi guys can any1 help,having trouble with my 98fc none turbo,it won,t rev past 4000revs under load,ive changed the ecu still the same,any advice would be great
Hi there and welcome in :)
It won\'t be a 98 as the FC stopped being made in 91, can you give us some specs of the car and engine and any modifications, it might be something as simple as electrical leads the wrong way round or timing being out.
sorry i meant 88,its pretty much standard apart from the exhaust,it was running fine till i had my exhaust welded,the battery was not diconnected,thats why i thought i spiked the ecu,i changed that but its still the same.its a gen 2 1988 none turbo
exhaust welded? as in patched a hole or changed the exhaust if you changed the exhaust then maybe sth to do with the o2 sensor? or lack of?
changed the exhaust,theirs never been an o2 sensor on it,as far as i no it came with a custom manifold and no cat,the manifold goes straight through to the y piece
There should be an O2 sensor in the down pipe.
i,ll av a look 2moz,it will go past 4000revs in the drive,but as soon as its on the road its like hitting a wall it just won,t drive through it
Im guessing this is when its up to temperature right? what fuel pump does it have? When were the plugs/HT leads changed?
Or it could be getting un-metered air into the engine perhaps. Check the intake pipes after the air flow meter for cracks and nip up the clips.
yes when warmed up,ive got newish 10mm leads,not sure when plugs were changed,i,ll try the intake pipes,thanks
4k rpm or so is when the primary and secondary injectors swap over/come online, it won\'t happen unless its under load, so check for air leaks, but it might be a fueling issue.
what makes the secondry injectors kick in
not sure if the egi is the same - but its around the 3800 rpm mark
and you get hesitation as they swap over
usually down to a bad earth or so im lead to belive
have a look on rx7club.com for the 3800 hesitation - there is loads of info on there
Quote from: tazzjazz;652063what makes the secondry injectors kick in
The primary injectors increase the duty cycle up until a point, usually about 4k rpm or so, then the primaries reduce back a bit and the secondaries fire fuel in as well. The ECU will decide on how much fuel is needed, so when reving it on the drive there is no load on the engine, so not as much fuel is needed, wheras on the road it will be under load so extra fuel will be needed.
Might be best to check all the air hoses first though, as the OEM air intake hose is notorious for splitting.
Does the car idle ok or is it quite lumpy?
no it idles good,really smooth,starts spot on,runs great upto 4k,then as i say won,t go through it like hitting a speed limiter
It\'s worth pulling the error codes off.
This could be one of the \'limp\' modes - due to a failure of OMP or similar.
See here - similar issue to yours:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49131&highlight=ecu+codes
can this just be plugged into a diagnostic lap top,checked air intake pipes,look to be relatavely new,no leeks as i can see,their also is no o2 sensor on down pipe,which their has never been one since i owned car
Not sure if the non turbo had a narrowband, but if it did and you\'ve not got one, it will just run fixed maps and throw 2 error codes.
It can still go into limp mode because the OMP is bad - but only if you have the electronically driven one - some earlier EGI (non turbo) models had the mechanical linkage off the throttle body.
Unfortunately the car doesn\'t do OBD - so laptop won\'t help you none. You just need a small bulb or 12V LED and a wire to get the codes off - there is a bit in that other thread about how to get the codes off.
but also check this link:
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORCODES/ZENKI/zerror.html
to get the codes off the earlier models
Quote from: tazzjazz;652220look to be relatavely new,no leeks as i can see,
simple trick, which im sure everyone knows.
turn engine on then spray some wd40 or similar flamable fluid around the intake area then if there is a leak the revs will rise.
ok thanks guys,i,ll have another play 2moz
also noticed 2day when sitting in the drive and revving upto 4k revs clean over 4k and it sounds like its missing and when it drops down to 4k it pops and back fires
Quote from: tazzjazz;652274also noticed 2day when sitting in the drive and revving upto 4k revs clean over 4k and it sounds like its missing and when it drops down to 4k it pops and back fires
That could be the engine cutting ignition to protect the engine, best to check the intake and the error codes :)
likely EOMP fail and limp , codes will tell
but i also suspect MAP sensor , try swap and see
Quote from: bumpstart;652336likely EOMP fail and limp , codes will tell
but i also suspect MAP sensor , try swap and see
do egi\'s have MAP sensors? or u mean MAF?
(just learning more on fc\'s :))
Quote from: L18M;652383do egi\'s have MAP sensors? or u mean MAF?
(just learning more on fc\'s :))
They do (have both) - well one version of the EGI does - it has all the control signals of the Turbo car - except no Knock sensor, and no Duty solenoid for boost. It has VDI and 6 port solenoids instead.
There is also an older version of the engine control that has the distributor rather than the CAS sensor - I don\'t know if that one has all the same sensors.
If you\'re not sure what version you have - post pics up of the engine bay - notably near the drivers shock tower, near the front passenger side of the engine, side of the engine as seen from the drivers side, and finally of the coils - should help identify what you have.
hi guys,ive still got the same problem car won,t rev past 4000revs under load.
ive done a flash test,its coming up with no faults
checked 4 air leaks with the old easy start but no joy
check you leads are on the right way
take the plugs out - what do they look like
check the resistance from the battery to the chassis ( high number is bad )
if its an EGI - what the dizzy and rotor arm like
thats all i can think of off the top of my head
thanks 4 that,new plugs and leads and all connected the right way,
not checked resistance though,rotar arm and dizzy cap look ok