I heard a wee while back this is a no-no, but that depends on types of car etc. Is it OK on a rotary? Would it clear a flooded engine? Am I being stupid? Should I just remove plugs, turn over and hope it works that way? Thanks!
Bump starting is fine.
Catalytic convertor can somtimes suffer due to excess fuel getting into it and burning though.
Regards
Carl
I did it on a few and never had any issues ! Quickest option with least hassle removing fuses plugs etc. .
Thanks guys, nice to know it\'ll work! So I can do it and not really worry (especially once the cats gone), and it will clear the flooding. Now why does no one ever seem to do it then, but always remove plugs etc?!
This is news to me. Last year when i did the tour through france and had problems with a fuse blowing (the one that did the starter motor, among other things) we bumped the car several times a day, including from cold in the mornings. Its very easy. Didn\'t seem to do the car any harm as its been used hard ever since....
Quote from: papercutout;646020Thanks guys, nice to know it\'ll work! So I can do it and not really worry (especially once the cats gone), and it will clear the flooding. Now why does no one ever seem to do it then, but always remove plugs etc?!
I\'m not sure if the flooded engine aspect of your question has been properly addressed. They\'re saying there\'s no reason why bump starting shouldn\'t be done on a rotary, but whether bump starting is the way to clear a flooded engine is surely a totally different question.. are we talking about hyro-lock here? I\'d have thought plugs out would be the only way to clear a flooded engine. I know sweet fa about the rotaries BTW and am just re-posing the question for thought..
Ah, thanks mate. I had a feeling it probably WOULD clear it, but best to get a definite on that.
Also, what spark plugs do FC 13B turbo\'s use as standard? One of the ones on these is totally shagged - the core comes out if you remove the HT lead! Might as well crank her over while changing them...
BUR9EQ
http://www.mazdarotaryparts.com/bfc-ig002-ngk-bur9eq-spark-plug-for-turbo-iib-1073-p.asp
Quote from: L18M;646994BUR9EQ
http://www.mazdarotaryparts.com/bfc-ig002-ngk-bur9eq-spark-plug-for-turbo-iib-1073-p.asp
I hate to resort to Haynes Manual, buuuut:
It tells me I have 4 spark plugs (which i know to be true, having looked!), 2 trailing, 2 leading.
What\'re the ones in the link? Whats the actual difference between the 2? Is that £8.45 for 1?
What do I neeeeeeeed?! lol
Yeah, you need four as you said - one leading per rotor and one trailing per rotor = the best ones (or at least the ones that most peeps go for) are the ones in the link that L18M gave. and Yes, it\'s £8.45 for one. Ask Mazda direct for them and its £38 each!!!! or at least thats what they tried to charge me!!
The plugs for a rotary are slightly different than for a piston - the tip is enclosed so that the sweeping action of the rotor round the housing doesn\'t smash it to bits when it hits the protruding bit of plug!!
The numbers just refer to how \'hot\' or \'cold\' the plug tip is - different levels of tune need different temperatures - but like I said, for most applications 9\'s are all good!!
HTH
graeme
Thats great, thanks! I\'m used to German running costs atm - dirt cheap! The ones in the link are just 1 type. Are they leading or trailing? Does it matter? Could I use them in both? I thought there would be a difference?! If those plugs are used in either leading or trailing, and not both - what do I use in the other? I\'m sorry if this post has all new line spacing removed - my work computer is a bit screwed and seems to do that on forums. Sorry for all the questions!
Depends who you ask..... Some people run 7\'s for leading and 8\'s for trailing but it depends on what your mods are. I run 9\'s all round with mildly modded and 307bhp.
Sounds about right to me - 9\'s all round it\'ll be! Stock later engine (FC Turbo), so 200bhp atm - exhaust, chipping etc to be done later.