CATASTROPHIC engine failure, thinking along the lines of removing the drum, giving it to wgt asking for a rebuild then fit it back in myself, cant be that difficult.........lol!
how much is just an engine rebuild (minus refit) these days?
engine started to missfire then massive explosions and fire and petrol and zero compression, anyone got a spare 13b knocking around.......(guess im keeping it then)........
FAIL.......
dam.. sorry to hear the bad news! :(
but look on the bright side.. HAPPY BIRTHDAY.. a present to urself is a nice rebuilt block and might as well get some porting done at same time :)
rebuilts r around £3k/£3.5k, think removal cost about £500/£600
thought gotta think about if the housings can be reused or not. new housings £900, good 2nd hand housing £300
might as well upgrade to fd corner seal springs also.
else u can try find a used lump around or stick a 13b rew in there :p
Quote from: L18M;641493dam.. sorry to hear the bad news! :(
but look on the bright side.. HAPPY BIRTHDAY.. a present to urself is a nice rebuilt block and might as well get some porting done at same time :)
rebuilts r around £3k/£3.5k, think removal cost about £500/£600
thought gotta think about if the housings can be reused or not. new housings £900, good 2nd hand housing £300
might as well upgrade to fd corner seal springs also.
else u can try find a used lump around or stick a 13b rew in there :p
Brian Ellis has got an engine for sale on here - with the big turbo it\'s under the rebuild cost !
I have a fc engine with 1200 miles on since rebuild forsale, it has large street port, high compression rotors 2 piece stock mazda apex seals, fd corner seal and springs and brand new rotor housing. £2,000 or £2,800 with blitz single turbo kit (down pipe, ext wastgate, manifold etc), or £3000 with all the above inc twin plat clutch and lightened flywheel.
Engine is still running so can be compression tested beforehand.
rgds
Brian
One thing I would say - get all the supporting ancillaries checked out, injectors, OMP, Fuel Pump, engine loom, ignition system, alternator - if one of these went bad and let your engine down - it could cost you big time if this happened again. It\'s a good time to check everything before it goes back on the car on a new engine.
I\'ve lost an engine to ancillaries - it\'s no fun paying out £2K or more when the failing part would only have been £100-200 !
It pays to go through the service manual and do the checks for each part - a lot of them can be done off the car - so it doesn\'t matter if the engine is gone - you can still do a lot of the tests off the motor. Regarding the injectors - get them off and flow tested - would cost you maybe £30-50 but well worth it for piece of mind.
Really gutted for you that you\'ve lost the motor. - I take it it really has gone and isn\'t just badly flooded or you\'ve a leaking injector for instance (so it\'s only running on 1 rotor - that\'s happened to me and won\'t cost you a rebuild ;) )
What fuel and Boost level were you using? Happy birthday btw :)
Also see if JM garage can do something for you :)
no it went with a huge explosion and fire, threw crap out the back, well iv got 3 options, 1;- i get the engine off brian (thankyou brian :D) and go for an epic build - 2;- i rip the engine out myself and give it to wgt for a rebuilt throw it back in myself, or 3:- as my company\'s making redundancies i POO myself and sell it with a dead engine cut my losses (whats it worth?) im not a gambler which i think you have to be to own one of these for any length of time :P (its the day after and this is starting to get depressing :/
0.75 bar it had started idling weird again and no matter what i did it would\'nt get better then later that week it got steadily worse until last night..... meh!! im up .... creek!! dont know enough - part of me just wants rid the other part just thinks ital be reet LOOK HOW PORNO IT IS!! lol!
Mate, don\'t give up on it :)
How did you know it was 0.75bar? do you have a mechanical boost gauge with no vac leaks? what mapped does it have?
option D) if u can take the engine out then u can try rebuild urself? theres lots of suppoert material and vids on how to rebuild so rebuild urself and just send the housing to be ported at wgt. saves money ad u learn more.. win win :)
or just sell urs n buy brians purple monster lol
Here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&hl=en-GB&v=fQm7HP6IOhI&NR=1
HEHE
no way - thats terrible news matey :( :( :(
there is always lindop that do rebuilds aswell :D
ahhhh dunno what to do..... option d is looking good..... option c is looking more likely
if i got a grand for the car id rather cut my losses as my job is looking more and more unstable.....why do things go wrong in 3\'s?
lindop? are they near me ish? (manchester)
they are in queensferry ( i think ! )
if you decide to get it rebuilt and need a hand with engine removal - just let me know ( and i can rally the troops ) always happy to lend a hand :D
there are a few of us localish - me and shaun have helped remove a single turbo and refit before , been over to Keighley to try and get a car started , shaun has done his own LPG conversion on his FB and lots of work to his FD et... :D
like i said - see what happens - but dont be afraid to ask for help :D :D :D
would be a real shame for you to sell the car with a dead engine .. it will really really really hurt the price - it might be worth a stab at rebuilding your self ( not that i would like to do it !! LOL )
its nice to know :D - this is what forums are about! clubbing together to help a wounded brother!, but as it is at the min i think scrapping/braking/beating it with a hammer is more likely - i was gonna sell up anyway as my 300 is nearly ready shouldda stopped driving it really.......
just before it died for a few days it was drinking water and would let out a blue puff of smoke on cold & warm start up could this be the oil + water way problem?
You\'ve probably had the water seal go then I would imagine.
Would probably explain the engine problem \'cause water doesn\'t compress so you\'ve probably got coolant in the engine itself. Maybe it was only a little bit to begin with and it was coping (hence the drinking water and blue smoke) and then when it went a bit more it\'s been misfiring badly! (Someone with better rotary knowledge may correct me on that, but it seems right) But if it is that it probably means that rotors, housings, etc are still all ok :)
i did not forsee this, i just expected it to blow up for normal reasons hence the reason iv been really gentle with it....
i know im not supposed to ask but if anyone has any clue on what its worth in this state?
welcome22morrow@hotmail.com
humm arkward to be honest - i have seen FC\'s change hands for £200 with blown engines - but yours is a show winner - so should be worth a LOT more
I\'m not sure.
I bought a T2 cab with a dead engine recently for £500, although it\'s not in great condition. Mine has faded paint and a few dents here and there and a little rust (cleaned up now) in annoying places. And the roof is all torn at the edges (although thankfully no rust underneath there)
So you should get a fair bit more than that... not that I\'m an expert on FCs, having only had one since August for a project!
if i was in ur shoes.. i\'d hold out for a cheap engine.. can pick them up from as little as £200.
im sure one will come round at some point. :)
i know its just a pain to wait :(
......probably right..... if i can find an engine thats running decent compression i could just throw that in........ oh god this is rubbish...... hmm, where the hell do i find a s5 turbo2 engine for a coupla hundred quid tho? ebay recons canada! lol!
Alternitivly you could take Brians engine thats been modified, which would add a lot to the value of the car..and be more fun lol
Not too convinced on water seal failure, think you might have blown the turbo and then that blew your engine. When you had the compression check by Pip and got good 7\'s then that would have shown any weekness in the seals and compression. That could only have been a few hundred miles ago!! Water seal failure will most likely give you problems starting, lumpy idle and then just nothing when it fails to start. To have a failure like that then something has gone bang inside ie tips or the turbo has shot itself to bits and ultimately found its way into the engine.
What boost controller were you using?
really bad shame and hope you find an engine. Realistically you will find an engine for about £600 in good condition. Most cars get scrapped because of the engine has blown.
Speak to Carl Hayward I am sure he will get yours rebuilt cheaper than you think,just give him the block and he will strip it down before you and tell you exacxtly whats wrong.
the avcr at 0.75 - well i need to have a think still going through the motions at the min, the way my jobs going at the min whatever happens costs need to be kept to a massive low
I thought turbo originally (the usual cause of blue smoke), but it was the drinking water that made me think more along the lines of the water seals. I couldn\'t make the link between drinking water and turbo.
But as I said, I\'m no expert and pdtaylor18 probably knows a lot more about the rotary engines than I do, so is probably right. :)
If you read this thread again, just so I can get a better understanding of all this (I\'m always eager to learn) is there anything to do with the turbo that would cause the water to be "drunk" or is it that something else may have failed and taken the turbo out with it?
The turbo is oil and water cooled - so if it failed catastrophically in the CHRA (Centre part of the turbo), then water could be going straight into the exhaust blades.
Blue smoke is oil - not water - water usually gives whitey / grey smoke and if it has coolant in it - often smells slightly sweet. White smoke can also be unburnt fuel.
Water loss can also be down to a leaky rad or water pipes - best to check those also, and might even be the heater matrix in the car.
Not being funny - but what did WGT actually do when you had the car there ?
Didn\'t realise the turbo was water cooled... The only turbo I\'ve taken out of a vehicle before was just air cooled... Maybe I should have paid more attention when taking my RX7 engine apart!!!
When i had my cabriolet luckily it blew on my driveway. I let it idle to warm up then I heard a lound bang, the road was covered in smoke it it sounded like a volkswagen beetle this too had good compression at the time too.
rgds
Brian
well tbh they did sod all from what i read of the invoice, they charged 2 and a hal hours labour for \'intercooler removal and refitment\' soooooooooo - still unsure as to what the next step should be with this car.......if i can find an old s5 13b engine then i might throw that in, failing that sell the car as is for a bag of sand if i can find a buyer
one bag of sand heading your way !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and it takes about 3 mins to get the IC off the car ???????????
Quote from: alxlaw;641758well tbh they did sod all from what i read of the invoice, they charged 2 and a hal hours labour for \'intercooler removal and refitment\' soooooooooo - still unsure as to what the next step should be with this car.......if i can find an old s5 13b engine then i might throw that in, failing that sell the car as is for a bag of sand if i can find a buyer
Did you tell them it was an FC and not an FD? how much would you be looking for regarding and engine and I will have a look around for you as well :)
maybe sth like this...?
though dont know if theres anything wrong with it.. maybe turn it over and see if theres any compression, fill with water to test for any leaks..
then fingers crossed and hope for the best?!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAZDA-ROTARY-ENGINE-SPARES-OR-REPAIRS_W0QQitemZ170383837218QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item27abab0822&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_1818wt_907
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D\'oh! looking at the water pump on that. i think its fd block not fc :(
lindop brothers (now silverstone autosport) are a great bunch of guys..... give them a call :)
ok - come up with a plan - gonna buy a cheap 13b, store the car over winter, recon the new 13b myself with the help of my ....eley talented friend (lol!)then throw that in, the old 13b coming out ill have a look how easy it is to re con that too see if i can recoupe some losses -
so..... where to start looking........ needs to be cheap as chips but not a wrecked one and pref low mileage that one on ebay iv been warned away from needs to be standard and reasonably un-molested - feels good to be moving forwards with this tho! can take my time and be reasonably methodical with this.. - and i still get to have my daily dose of sport car fun with the 300zx (5 days till its ready!)
so
few things i need to know, diferences in \'serise\' engines
ie mines a serise5 - what does this mean? and what does it mean for the loom?
why cant i put an fd engine in? (simply) lol
going to start ripping the engine out on the weekend ill take lots of pics so we can all gasp in horror!!!!!!!!!! lol!
not alowed to say ....eley? w a n k e l e y?....no? oh ok lol!
as long as your a dropping a 13b turbo into it - there should be NO probs
unless you are thinking of putting a NA into it - and then .. errrrr your on your own !
I\'ve got a blown 13BT engine for sale. It threw a tip on the front rotor but the rear rotor seems to have good compression. You could use my engine and your engine to make 1 good engine. Could be a cheap option.
S4 TII has lower compression rotors than S5 TII (or was it the other way round?)
u can fir 13b rew engine into it, will need different engine mounts (fogot where to get them from but around 150 quid)
if u need engine parts i think best place is tim rx motors. good used housing can get for 300 a pair. stock tub about 100 to giv u an idea
good luck with it :)
(price correct as of july 2009)
s4T = 8.5:1,, s5T=9.0:1
porting is the same between them,, the s5 rotor is different weights,, so s5 uses rotating masses and flywheel to suit
( so these parts don\'t interchange unless moving all of the rotating parts )
the s5 engine uses a much better ECU,, with it the EOMP control and associated TB with dual TPS
( s4 is manual lever type OMP )
however,,, its possible to bolt the s5 timing cover and manifolds and TB to s4 engines to make suit
PS,, be wary if adding s4 NA housings to the mix,, these have unique spark plug locations ( same as MFR PP housing )
however housings with the knock sensor dimple are same spark locations as s4T housings and do interchange
( so marked with the N318 bossing near the oil injector location )
ie,, beware the housing without knock sensor tapping and no n318 marking
as for FD engine = rear mounted ,, so have to buy custom mounts and rig them to your body
( some mob in canada where making them )
Quote from: alxlaw;642235so..... where to start looking........ needs to be cheap as chips but not a wrecked one and pref low mileage that one on ebay iv been warned away from
Sorry - which one is that?