Hi yall,
Im interested in eventually changing my egi into a tII at the end of the year,i understand from other post\'s on here it\'s no walk in the park.I know it would be easyer to just sell up and buy a TII but thats not the name of the game and the egi would need a rebuild at some point.
Ive got a basic idea of what id need to perform the swap but im just after some advice on what else i might need.
Im looking to buy a rusty shelled tII soon and rape that for parts-
Engine
Transmission
prop shaft
diff+casing
engine loom
ecu
fuel pump
air scoop bonnet
exhaust
and various interior parts.
I hope im not living on another planet because id hate to give up on the car at this stage.Especially as ive just spent out on coilovers and body kit.:D
Thanks Adam
might be easier to use the TII dash/clocks aswell.
Also a perfect time to go for an uprated fuel pump.
You might need TII halfshafts and hubs too, though i don\'t know. Sounds like you\'ll have the parts to test it though :D
yeah true,my sub frame could do with a recon anyway so it\'s all gota come down at some point.
Im hopefully going to rob the whole interior from a t2 so ill do the dash swap as well hopefully.
I was bidding on a walbro pump from an fc on egay but that fell through.Ive heard the standard ones are safe for 200bhp-300bhp?
In the long run im after reliable power,so not after a pp and monster turbo set up:D.
It terms on re-wiring would there be much to take on apart from the engine loom?? Me and electrics have a jaded past lol.
well if you\'re after a stock pump ive got one sitting about you can have for £25. Excelent condition, may even be new (not sure though).
Tbh its only really worth taking the seats and the clocks from the TII, unless you really want it to look the same, i believe the rest of the dash is the same. IMO the egi interior is nicer. Proper carpets :D
As for electric....no idea :P
Also worth sticking a decent diff in the car whilst the subframe is down as you need to unbolt the subframe to get the diff out. I\'d also go for new diff and subfram bushes at this time, oh and new rear steer bushes.
Also are you rebuilding the engine? Good time to get a street port in :D
yeah thats the plan,gona hopefully drop the lump into rx motors for a street port,what sorta power could i expect from a street ported t2 lump running standard boost?? 250??
300 with a piggy back ecu/zorst and filter and 0.9 bar
Not sure when the stock fueling would start to run out though
Quote from: dthebuk;638414300 with a piggy back ecu/zorst and filter and 0.9 bar
Not sure when the stock fueling would start to run out though
At 0.9 bar the injectors will be almost maxxed out, best not push it more than that, plus the effiency of the stock turbo starts failing at about 0.9 bar - its not ment for high boost lol
Don\'t forget that 0.9 bar is ok only with the supporting mods like the fuel pump, but also with uprated HT leads, uprated intercooler and uprated rad, oh and you will need a chipped ECU to go to 0.9 bar lol
You will also need to re-loom the whole car for a good job as i expect the EGI is a S4 and all the plug connectors are different especially the ECU end and even door plugs are different. It can be done but you will need to rewire the connector that goes into the right hand side of the ECU which goes to the dash etc, that will be your main concern to get right. When you buy the engine and loom it must have all the S5 engine solonoids andf little boxes as they are all different as well..
Its things like rewiring that concern me,as far as dropping the engine in and swapping out diff\'s etc im fine doing it myself.
Just wondering if it may be an idea to let a local garage tackle the electronics to make sure its a proper job.
Il try and get a vague idea of how much that may cos me as i really don\'t wna bugger it up:)
Do not get a local farage as it will cost you a fortune for the work load involved. If you get the engine harness then I am sure we can talk you through the rest of the wiring, its not difficult but does involve understanding circuits and colour coding of wires etc. Its a good learning curve if nothing else.
The one thing im sure it will be is a learning curve,but im sure it will be worth it:)
Im looking to find a whole t2 so should have everthing i need.The info ive had on here has been top notch so i have full confidence if i became stuck.Im planning to swap the dash so maybee that could be the time to attack the wiring??
It will be a little while yet as im still to find a suitable doner car.
The dash itself is the same, its just the wiring attached to the dash thats different so dont go buying a whole new dash. However if you have a doner car then different matter as that will have to come out to take all the loom out. With it out you will be able to tell what you have to do to get everything mated together.
The doner car is definately the best option for all the bits you will need.
Yeah it seems like the best idea at the moment,just trying to find a t2 for sale is proving a challenge.
Can\'t wait to get it all done,have some decent power.what are the turbos like in the t2\'s?? I assume they are a garret varient??
They are a Hitachi turbo, make sure you get a series 5 turbo II as the series 4 had a less powerful turbo, small front end, large back end, which means you can hybrid the turbo if you wanted like Profs car, but its a wierd sized flange, not a normal T3/T4
Turbo runs out of puff at 0.9 bar, good for very fast spool up, but doesn\'t have the legs top end as the turbo was designed for the average driver, who rarely goes about 4k revs.
When I change my turbo over I will have mine up for sales, its been fully rebuilt with 360 thrust bearings and ported :)