its fine to drive just so long as your foot never comes off the terror pedal, i cant get to pips till next weekend so was going to have a peroooz myself - the idle screw on the side of the inlet will upp the idle breifly but then goes down to 400rpm then dies.... im aware of a hissing/air leak behind the schmintercooler so was gonna rip that off tomorrow and have a gander anything i should be looking for? whats behind there anyway? and what the hell is a ....le engine anyway? lol!:yes
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58840&highlight=doritos
in short:
1) magic
2) 2 doritos on a stick :rollin
the latter one is the best :rollin
Quote from: alxlaw;633544its fine to drive just so long as your foot never comes off the terror pedal, i cant get to pips till next weekend so was going to have a peroooz myself - the idle screw on the side of the inlet will upp the idle breifly but then goes down to 400rpm then dies.... im aware of a hissing/air leak behind the schmintercooler so was gonna rip that off tomorrow and have a gander anything i should be looking for? whats behind there anyway? and what the hell is a ....le engine anyway? lol!:yes
That\'s almost definitely an air leak you\'ve got there - possibly from main throttle inlet to intercooler hose, or it could be one of the wee hoses from the back of the intercooler that dissapear down the back of the throttle body.
In any case - you\'re getting unmetered air which is what kills your idle. If you up the revs (by playing with the thottle, you reduce the fuel/air inbalance so it runs.
Getting the intercooler off isn\'t too difficult - I am pretty sure you\'ll find what\'s wrong having done that.:Thumbs-up
Quote from: L18M;633549http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58840&highlight=doritos
in short:
1) magic
2) 2 doritos on a stick :rollin
the latter one is the best :rollin
lol!!! i was being silly i have a vague idea how it works lol!
Quote from: Prof;633554That\'s almost definitely an air leak you\'ve got there - possibly from main throttle inlet to intercooler hose, or it could be one of the wee hoses from the back of the intercooler that dissapear down the back of the throttle body.
In any case - you\'re getting unmetered air which is what kills your idle. If you up the revs (by playing with the thottle, you reduce the fuel/air inbalance so it runs.
Getting the intercooler off isn\'t too difficult - I am pretty sure you\'ll find what\'s wrong having done that.:Thumbs-up
RIGHT in which case im off to rip the intercooler off see you in a couple of hours!!!
Im thinking split/perished pipe at the back of the intercooler :)
uuuggg..... all went a bit .... got it off easily enough and found a pipe just poking about, had a bit of a search and found what looked like the right place for it to go put it all back togeather feeling really pleased - had made no difference, stalled strait away, so off it came and i took some pics of said items -
this is where it looked like it wanted to be connected to (1 of three pipes life there)
(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs138.snc1/5920_121713186670_514801670_2863273_5602871_n.jpg)
this is of the pipe in situe and where it was found and the direction it wanted to go in to find the above \'male\' pipe (lol) -
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs158.snc1/5920_121713191670_514801670_2863274_3349640_n.jpg)
and this is where it is in relation to the rest of the engine if it helps
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs158.snc1/5920_121713201670_514801670_2863275_4719960_n.jpg)
anyway i screwed a screw in the end of the pipe to see if that helped - didnt
had a listen and the leak seems to be coming from nearer to the idle screw than anything, couldnt see anything untoward there either and in the 2 hours of tinkering i had the engine on for less than 5 mins - and its given me a huge headache and i feel sick - so gassing me for fun again as usual - pos!
There should be a row of solinoids along the side of the oil filler neck, they are different colours, are they all connected up?
i shall check 1 min............
yea all the solenoids have a wire coming from each individually and at the end there is a big plug dangling around next to the expansion bottle?
lol! checked wrong ones.....brb (i checked the ones in the front bumper.....) :)
Sorry to hear you gassed yourself :(
On both the front and back of the throttle body, there are several vacuum pipes.
On the back - which sounds like where you\'re leak is coming from, there is a short pipe that goes to a 4 way divider - this is called the vac spider - and feeds vacuum to the oil injectors. It\'s under the upper inlet manifold so you won\'t easily see it. There are also 2 further pipes that come from the back of the throttle bodies and go to the injector bleeds - one to each pair. Not sure what the 4th one does - I think it may be connected to the warmup stuff on the throttle body - as I\'ve still got all 4 on the back of mine and still have that connected.
Looking at one of your pics - one of the above hoses has come off for sure - you shouldn\'t have any of those pipes uncapped or not connected on the throttle body - as that will leak vacuum.
I\'ve attached a diagram that I hope will help.
cheers prof, yea that kinda helps, hope pip doesn\'t want another million pounds to fix this one!, iv put the vac pipe back on, im gonna leave it alone till i take it down on the weekend dont wanna mess it up anyfurther
well came back from wgt, was a pipe round the back where prof\'s diagram shows - it blows off everytime i drive it......hmmm..... im hitting fuel cut at 0.75 bar randomly and this is what knocks it off, it goes on the metal bit you can see in my pics, so whats the answer?? once the pipe has blown itself off i no longer hit fuel cut and it keeps pulling but dies when it tryes to idle...................................................... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!
That makes sense.
It\'s a small vac/boost leak so under idle conditions it will allow unmetered air in and this will kill the idle.
Under boost, it will leak some of the boost limiting the pressure the MAP sensor see\'s - which means you won\'t get fuel cut.
Those pipes are only push fit, so if it\'s that lose the hose needs replacing - the ends to expand over time.
sounds like you could do with an fcd aswell
Or a chipped ECU so the car doesn\'t run lean on boost!
whats an fcd? and the ecu is already chipped fully getting sick of it! lol
FCD = Fuel Cut Defencer - or basically a device that you wire into your map sensor so that when it hits a certain level of boost, the FCD just keeps telling the ECU the same boost, regardles of the actual boost being reported at the MAP sensor.
What it means is that the ECU will only provide fuelling for the amount of boost the FCD tells it is there, and not the real amount.
A chipped ECU would *normally* not require an FCD as it would simply remove the fuel cut and have extended maps to provide more fuel at higher boost. Having said that, who knows what the chip is set up for - if you don\'t have documentation for it, it could be set for anything. Most chipped ECU\'s that I\'ve come across seem to have these attributes:
- Removal of Boost related fuel cut - so the ECU can go beyond 8.6 psi - normally there are fuel maps to 1 bar (so running 0.9 should be ok)
- Removel of Rev Limit - no longer soft limits at 7000 RPM, but the buzzer will still sound
- Removal of Speed cut - JAP ecu\'s have a 112 mph limit
- More aggressive fuel maps and more aggressive timing maps - designed to support aftermarket exhaust and intakes plus usually a better intercooler.
If you get the case apart, you can usually see what chip it is, although most of the regular jap tunng houses that made these chips label the outside of the ECU as well.
where is the ecu? drivers foot well or is that something else? so if it is chipped as pete says whats the answer?
ECU is in the passenger footwell. you need to rip up the carpet then its under the kick plate, mine wasn\'t even screwed down. If its chipped, try and look at the chip as it might say what chip it is, in which case you could probably look up what it does. Thoughif you\'re hitting the Fuel cut I\'d suggest another chip over an FCD, going from what prof has said, FCD\'s sound like they make you\'re engine run lean on high boost and if your ecu doesn\'t think you\'re running high boost how can it richen the mixture?
Also its worth a mention that even though the the rev limit is removed, theres not alot of point on going past something like 6800 revs as this is where the tub runs out of puff.
ok well can anyone shed anylight on this.............
(http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs138.snc1/5920_125717101670_514801670_2919518_1081585_n.jpg)
(http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs158.snc1/5920_125717096670_514801670_2919517_3559398_n.jpg)
(http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs158.snc1/5920_125717091670_514801670_2919516_4677984_n.jpg)
EGI?? rx01??? dont get it??
ps im in hospital! - bin ere 4 days - slipped a disc & trapped my spinal chord causing partial numbness to the lower half of my body GOOD TIMES.....
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs138.snc1/5920_125717111670_514801670_2919519_5721649_n.jpg)
n380 is uk TII ecu, jap one is N374.
depending on what plans u may have in future for ut TII (more power etc) might be worth thinking about getting a diff ecu.
PFC (standalone around £500), e-manage (piggyback)
hope u get better soon. :)
Unfortunately, it seems you cant get the chips on their own. You can buy chipped ecu\'s though. They are japanese and quite pricey. Not sure if them being jap is a problem.
believe this is the same chip i have.
RE-A
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RE-Amemiya-ECU-Mazda-N374-13BT-Rx7-RX-7-Fc3S-Fc-89-91_W0QQitemZ290335809801QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item43995ce109&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_2565wt_1167
JDM RE Sports
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JDM-RE-Sports-ECU-Mazda-N374-13BT-Rx7-Fc3S-Fc-89-91_W0QQitemZ250477968175QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a51a67b2f&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_2640wt_1167
kansai - note, this chip only looks like it\'s soldered in
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kansai-KS-Rom-ECU-Mazda-N374-13BT-Rx7-Fc3S-Fc-89-91_W0QQitemZ250477968185QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a51a67b39&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_2855wt_1167
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JDM-R-ECU-Mazda-N374-Ecu-13BT-Rx7-RX-7-Fc3S-Fc-89-91_W0QQitemZ290339431142QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item43999422e6&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_3564wt_1167
I wouldn\'t bother with a PFC or an e manage unless you\'re planning on running big powerz.
Good luck!
Though you could get the chip\'s off Ebay? Is that not a chip with the marker pen on it then? Don\'t think it would be labeled like that from the factory.
Oh and get well soon, sounds like your having a rough time.
Well - N380 means it\'s a turbo II UK/Europe model ECU.
They all say EGI on them - which can be confusing.
And it\'s definitely chipped - although that does look like a home programmed jobby - would be difficult to say what\'s been done on it without lifiting it off the board (I presume it\'s socketed) and then reading it off on a prom reader.
PM me, I\'ve something you might be intersested in :) :Thumbs-up
well iv got a bios chip puller, n it does seem to be sat in a cradle - so i could prob get it out, dont have pm tho prof.... guess this is a subscribing thing..... just renewed my 300zx.co.uk subscription...£20..... which i dont use as iv nearly finished that car now....
got e-mither tho? - welcome22morrow at \'hotmail\' dot com
also apparently the engine is a uk spec s5? does that matter? and should i feed it 97 ron instead? - was thinking of going for one of those ecu\'s, which would be the right one to go for ?
im not looking for power im looking for what i was originally quoted when i bought ie 260 - 280 OR for it to just run and idle.......that\'d be nice
woke up bout 20 mins ago to the news they wanna operate on my back.............................ing ....... .... .... .......s!!!!
can pete not shed some light on this? there\'s an EPIC amount of splicing going on the ecu plug he must know what was in it? n what it does?
Quote from: alxlaw;635975well iv got a bios chip puller, n it does seem to be sat in a cradle - so i could prob get it out, dont have pm tho prof.... guess this is a subscribing thing..... just renewed my 300zx.co.uk subscription...£20..... which i dont use as iv nearly finished that car now....
got e-mither tho? - welcome22morrow at \'hotmail\' dot com
300zx hey? - my wife used to be on there - as did I - she uses the other site now.
I\'ve emailed you seperately :)
As to the history of that car - it was an S4 car at one point in time, but had a full transplant of engine and ECU into the shell from a Series 5. It\'s been owned by some notable characters on here :wiggle
Hope your back injury isn\'t serious !
few old motors -
before work
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v343/153/20/514801670/n514801670_1315674_5346.jpg)
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v343/153/20/514801670/n514801670_1315675_5590.jpg)
(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v355/153/20/514801670/n514801670_1315857_3009.jpg)
then we found the rust......
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs033.snc1/2661_63755256670_514801670_2077999_1761255_n.jpg)
(http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs033.snc1/2661_63755246670_514801670_2077997_4411510_n.jpg)
so is in the prosess of overhaul, welding done, just needs the respray looks like this at the moment
(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs001.snc1/4144_86084446670_514801670_2292033_1711802_n.jpg)
good old xe calibra se2.... never let me down 1ce..
(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v355/153/20/514801670/n514801670_1315856_2611.jpg)
not got any e-mails yet prof?
Quote from: alxlaw;636003not got any e-mails yet prof?
You\'re right - too many r\'s in morrow - lol :spank
I\'m resending...
yea its \'morrow\' on my addy
i used to own it !! LOL :D
that alone should make it worth the best part of 10K :D
iv replyed mate :D
need a verdict on this asap - is this right? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-POWERTEK-BOOST-CONTROLLER-MAZDA-323-RX7-RX8-TURBO_W0QQitemZ140334860052QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item20ac9c0714&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_895wt_1165
arn\'t those the type that trick the ecu, so it thinks its running standard boost? (i may be) completely wrong
its the one my mate is funning on his mr2 - seems to be working very very well ie no spikes (small ones and not as regularly as my current boost controller) anyway
i\'ll have a chipped ecu for sale very soon if u interested?
its a rotecnics special i been told
Quote from: L18M;636060i\'ll have a chipped ecu for sale very soon if u interested?
its a rotecnics special i been told
im in talks with prof at the min i need the chip to inc fcd this is a must to start solving running issues, what features does yours have?
what you know about the car grinder? any paperwork? info? atall i got nothin
Quote from: alxlaw;636072im in talks with prof at the min i need the chip to inc fcd this is a must to start solving running issues, what features does yours have?
ok. well.. if u need let me know tho im sure prof can sort u out.
think its for intake, exhaust and higher boost. i have a fcd somewhere in my fc iirc that i dont need lol
The ECU is a chipped UK version using this chip which is a copy of a Jap tuned ECU.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mazda-RX-7-FC3S-1989-91-Turbo-Stage-1-Performance-Chip_W0QQitemZ280386288082QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item41485339d2&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
The chip is in a carrier so that it can be changed or even modified if someone has the software.
It does all the things it should do including FCD etc etc. The wires at the ECU are for when the EBC was installed if it still is. I can send you another standalone FCD to see if that cures fuel cut which is plug and play but I have had problems when you have a chipped ECU and standalone FCD with idle etc.
I dont understand why you are having so many problems when this car has been all over the UK to shows and no probs at all. For your info the Car is totally UK S5 engine and wiring but it does not make any difference even if it were JDM, the ECU\'s are all still interchangeable. I can send you a Jap tuned ECU to see if it helps the idle as I have had ECU\'s in the past that have caused this.
Also run the car on 99 RON whenever possible,this has helped massively with idles in the past on many a rotary I have owned. Most JDM ECU\'s are tuned for 100RON or higher so its crucial to used good quality fuel,even octane booster is better if you can get it cheap enough.
Exactly what did Pip do to the car?
the epic bill was for the throttle thing, and last saturday was for the vac pipes but it still wont idle and hits fuel cut without booting it, pip asures me the engine is sweet and like he said was over 7\'s all round still so i dunno wat pips doing really......im kinda at a loss and hospital is taking is tole on me, im not having a go pete i love the car to bits im on so many drugs finding it hard to get my head round it all:3Confused
pip didnt volunteer much info even when i asked and asked loads so i dunno.....
Cant believe it cost so much just for a sticky throttle butterfly, thats really pretty bad. As for the idle then you do need to see what under the manifold,only takes about 10 mins to get off and it might reveal a dodgy vac hose. They are all new under there and all samco so good hoses. However it does not take much for one to blow off and this does sound like whats happened. Pip really should have sorted that as thats what you have paid for. Sorry for all the hassle and extra cost it is having at the moment but where i can help then I will. If its hitting fuel cut then I would blame the ECU. Give me an address and we can at least send another and see if it helps. If it does not then just send it back. The two I have all have been in that car and were brillient. Never had fuel cut once and far better power than standard.
It can only take a pin prick in a vac hose to cause your troubles. If you can hear air then that really is your problem.
The engine is solid and the 7\'s are excellent, it has not changed in its values since i had it, mind you it may have only covered 6K miles in all the time I had it.
thanks pete :) means alot, send me a txt n ill send you my address via txt its 07800524039,
ill have to take the inlet off for a good gander, pip starting to worry me as i have nothing to show for the cash i gave him.....really, i wouldn\'t minded if he\'d explained a little better, like you said £700 for a sticky throttle is a little ridiculous - i presumed it was gonna be epic when i got it back - bearing in mind it runs like a bag of poo now was a little disappointed and im far to polite to give him .... for it in fear of being made to look stupid.....lol!!! (can you tell the morphine\'s working) lol!
on Saturday pip said i needed a new intake pipe as mines got huge holes in it which he said will effect the idle anyone know where i can get some silicone intake pipe? and the air leak near the idle control valve i can hear
Intake pipe for what the turbo? I have several but confused as to what Pip really has done. If he knows something is wrong then surely he should have at least did a temp fix or fixed it permanently. You need to send a pic mate as baffled as to why now you have huge holes in it?? I have plenty of intake pipes and silacone to sort you out. The only holes in the turbo intake are obviously one either end,two smaller ones with NRV\'s on the end for vented oil and something else and one for the dump valve. I think you need to send some pics and I would also start concidering ranting at PIP as you have paid a lot of money for something that no doubt took a little of WD40 to put right. He has a good reputation but something seems shoddy here.
The air leak near idle control valve can fixed with silacone sealant or try and chase to see if a hose has come off. I will try and send a pic of one. Only four bolts holding it on but I doubt you will want to do any of that ion your condition.
well as a start i need to find some inlet pipe that goes from the turbo to the maf...... anyone got any dimensions or pics of the standard one? i fancie making it out of 2 bits of silicon and ally pipe
I can make something up for you. I have a complete kit you can have. I\'ll send something along in the post.
legend pete! :) id prefer to make one up from silicon n hard pipes as the old ones are poo according to pip
And thats what you will get. In the post this morning.
In the post, you have a jap tuned ECU which does support FCD and alters the fuelling etc etc for exhaust and intake etc etc. It does raise the boost. Dam good map on that one so if it does not cure it then I would want it back. If it does then can you send the original one back as I will change the chip in that. I have sent you an array of hoses,joiners and pipes to mate from the turbo and to the filter. Dont forget that you may have to run a catch tank to one of the two little hoses that have the nrv on the end in your original hose,for now just leave that hanging as hardly anything comes out. The other I cant remember what that does but someone will help you on that one until i get the chance to refresh my memory.
Its all very well changing all the items but you still have to find the air leak, a good ECU might mask it for a while but the problem will never go away until you find it.
In comes pete to save the day again.
Good stuff! :D
i shall hit the manifold when my back is gettin better or ill get a competent friend on the case, thanks pete, i know you didnt have to do any of this - your a top bloke - cheers :)
I would much rather the cars frightening little ol ladies then sat in a garage broke.!! lol
he charged you how much .. crickey !!!!!!!!!!!!
and sorry no paperwork for the car - i bought it as a non runner - spent a few weeks trying to get it going - and then sold it on - sorry :(
when i bought it - i didnt even get a V5 with it :(
Quote from: alxlaw;636044need a verdict on this asap - is this right? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-POWERTEK-BOOST-CONTROLLER-MAZDA-323-RX7-RX8-TURBO_W0QQitemZ140334860052QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item20ac9c0714&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_895wt_1165
anyone tell me if this is right? will it fit mine? i know fds are twin so its a bit vauge...... or does it matter?
Pretty much any manual boost controller will work,same as per electronic its just how you plumb them in that matters either electrically or vac/boost wise.
well the current one only has one pipe going to it?, still spikes (last time i drove it) and iv been assured this one wont spike half as much) if it stops the spiking it might help....
Did you get the items and have you fixed it?? need to know what was the problem. Just send the ECU back if its not that please.
yes!!! all done now, driven it for a day idles fine, uses a normal amount of petrol doesn\'t die on me think i need a catch tank for those oil pipes as they smell like death when driving but the hard pipes and the ecu together have fully fixed it!! MAZIN! thank you very much pete! what sort of boost does this ecu require? and whats the name of it? its all in Japanese?
all in all a win! dunno how its worked but its worked?!?!?
think boost is about 0.8 max but dont forget thats a standard turbo. I think the problem was the ECU. Can you send that back to me as I will replace the chip in it as I expect thats the cause.
Catch tank is a must, you can tap into those lines at the oil filler neck for one and I think the other is a breather from the top of the iron by the oil filter. All mine go into a catch tank from there. Glad its all working.
Let me know if you need my address again and i\'ll email it. Just reply to the address below if you have to.
glad to hear you\'re car is working.
NOW DECK IT :D:D:D:D
got some bbs alloys of my 300zx -
(http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs133.snc1/5720_124003627201_713552201_2777500_102749_n.jpg)
with lowering and spacers and photo shop DECKING may occur on those instead of the rx8 wheels - yes pete shall send back old ecu asap many thanks :)
Good lad!!
I can\'t help but wonder what will happen to the RX8 wheels then. Grinder friendly price by any chance?
I had the same symptoms as your idle on my t2,i recently found a vacum pipe going to my boost gauge was seperated just behind the bulkhead.I found a new vacum line and once it had been replaced the idle has been steady since.I don\'t know if this helps.