:wave:wave Hi guys,
Just purchased an RX7 FC 88\' non turbo.
Though had unlucky sale, the sale was smooth, but the guy was showing over the engine bay, opened the upper and lower rad caps, all full, ya know the basic stuff. had a \'how to buy an rx7\' guide printed off for reference :P
Anyway, thought YES. sorted, nice new car, rx7 to take home to meet the celica.
Driving nice and smooth down the motorway back from liverpool to derby, taking slow so that i can keep it \'as is\' to go over again the next day before going a little more.. :driving
10mins later. .. .. .
*loud buzzing* ADD COOLANT.. .
damn, coming up a slip to motorway island.
towards light, temp gauge gets about 1/2mm from the top, think, screw this, engine off! ...
..
SMOKE. lots of it. lift bonnet open only to find the dumbass hadnt put the radiator cap back on the upper bit. water all over place boiling away.
Anyway, we filled with more water at a services after finding the cap (luckily) and left it cooling down. worrying if the heatup had blown the sensitive engine from all the overheat=murder threads.
it seemed to start up instantly, no streaming bubbles (advice on a thread) no smoke, no funny noises, etc. but then rad caps didnt fit back on smooth an water started pouring again. . so had to be recovered (1hour into my insurance policy lol)
Now when i start it, it fires instantly, but after warm up process an revs lower, it holds at 1k for few seconds then starts bouncing down to as little as 300. and sounding like it\'ll stall then speeding back up. if i take it up high and let off, it doesnt stop at idle it falls down low an stalls.
Its OK after its been on a while. but still sounds a little \'weak\' on its idle in comparisson to other cars, but i\'ve never even seen or heard a rotary til now.
Anyway nice to meet you all!
I\'m rob, i live in derby (alfreton) owner of FC non turbo. :) and a celica GT in ccuk.
I\'ll be on here loads with problems, if its anything like my celica. (even the steering wheel fell off on that)
:):wave
Ahh, today i going to be checking over the car..
Will it still run fine if the engine had burnt up from the heatup incident ? ?
Im assuming from the smooth running that its ok and im lucky, but I know my luck.
Im going to bleed the oil today too, etc, hmm, anyone know if \'flushing fluid\' ok to throw down one of these? or shall i just use the new oil to flush through the system with?
infact i have a few questions for these forums..
(btw i know im a new and non paid member, hope this isnt getting me frowned down on :(
i WILL be buying a membership profo when i know i can save my car, I loved the celica club uk for assist/idea\'s/and general laughs.
-how sensitive ARE these engines exaclty? like if i use injector cleaner/let it hit redline a bit/cheap fuel on skint days/etc
-Any strong advice for a new owner? (i love cars and keeping a healthy RX, looks to be expensive with replaces and im not that deep pocketed)
-Is the cooling at standard sufficient for the Non turbo model to keep it happy?
I\'ll get some pics up, and keep posting. even though i had NO replies !!! :O
warm welcome.
^_^ Any owners in derby? ? if so it\'ll be ace to have a contact nearly local since no one i usually work on cars with around here understands/seen these.
hello,
welcome to the club :)
im not very techi but just let her warm up b4 redlining her :)
not sure about injector cleaner but red lining her is def a good thing. thats how u ment to be driving rotaries.
cheap fuel.. even the new rx8 suggest running 95 ron so that will be fine in an egi.
b ad idle can be air leak, unmetered air going into the block. check intake pipes, maybe take off intake manifold thing n check the gasket. if u \'search\' u cna get plenty of info
:)
Hey thanks.
Yea i heard they loved to be driven well.
:)
Been checking for air leaks, will this harm the car if i still use it while working on finding the leak? or can it be hazardous to use?
I have no smoke, the pipes do feel hard after its fired up for minute or 2. still can be squeezed, just not soft.
Theres no smoke no matter what i do (rev it, etc) no bubbles appear through the water tanks and no \'mayo\'
so im hoping after that little incident after picking it up, it isnt blown. doesnt match the symptoms ive read, and only really a idle problem :)
just wondering really, if its safe to keep driving with this?
It seems ok no loud noises bangs, im new to these cars so definately dont want to break it.
had new rad cap on today, since the old one was leaking. ^_^ first new part, of by the looks of it MANY.
Well, this is a busy forum :P
Just been out for a drive, the water pipes feel hard. but still no smoke, or anything, and the temp gauge never rose past like around 1/4, no lights or buzzing either :p
:)
will keep looking bk here, to see if anyone posts a \'STOP DRIVING\' it will break post.
LOL..
Hi Rob and welcome to MRC
Lets hope that your car is all o/k now.
u should be fine. if any damage has occured then it would of by now.
best to fit after market gauge as stock gauge is nt that great!
just an idea, to check for air leak.. maybe try spray some wd40 (or similar flammable liquid) in possible areas. if theres a leak then the revs will increase due to the flamability(?) of the wd40
cheers, i\'d feel a little cautious about spraying flammables over my engine? maybe will try the old soapy water trick or something that will stay but bubble. ?!?
Well, i took it out for hours today, it still has the idling problem, and well, i have no idea if it sounds healthy or not, since it sounds nothing like other cars.
any local\'ish folk? derby.
wil fit extra temp gauges for oil and water. and probably some other little gauges just for fun :)
Hmm, dash lights keep going out now! fun at night!
gear stick feel SO loose and wobbly, selects and holds gears FINE, well if i can find them :P
strong smell of fuel always, could running too rich cause idle problems?!
hmm, all interior lights, (as in the ones you turn on to see stuff) dont work, passenger window switch, dash lights(as said), clock wont stay right an sometimes vanishes.
Dont suppose these all connected issues? or a million wires to check all over :/
dont you just love buying a car that \'appears\' fine, then finding thing after thing wrong.
Also would an engine needing a rebuild drive fine without smoke or hesitation?
oil change, is there a \'cheap\' oil that works without ANY problems? im skint :D
Also i think i\'ve used nearly 3/4 tank on like 100miles, driving no faster than 60, and most of it in 4/5th gears.
THIS HAS TO BE RICH!, no way its quite this thirsty LOL.
I did spend like 10minutes being well, \'childish\' in the old empty car parks. but that didnt drink.
dash light going \'off\' is common prob. just smack the dash n will come back on lol
n/a engines can last 150k-200k between rebuild but depends if its been flooded or left flooded for a long period of time.
halfords mineral oil is good to use. make sure its MINERAL!!!!
Yeah Mineral oil all the way. Morisons are doing litre bottles at the filling station for £2.50 ish (10-40w). Does sound like its running a bit rich. This could cause your idleing problems but I would think you\'d be getting a bit of smoke or something (and some flames!). How hard is the top radiator hose when the engine is on? if its rock hard thats not good :( it should be fairly squeezable but not too soft either. There are so many things that can cuase a rough idles on these things, so the best thing is to keep doing what you are doing.......read read and read! TPS, fueling, air leak, AFM could be any one or all of these.
Oh and Welcome to the club. Maybe post some pic\'s up and introduce yourself in the 2nd gen section and link this thread. You may get some more replies.
Hi - Welcome Rob.
Air leak - if you do have an air leak, it will be sucking air in - so you aren\'t going to see bubbles with water. You\'re best bet is to squirt some carb cleaner at the intake hose joins and gasket areas - but very carefully :Giggle - a little bit at a time to see if the engine note picks up - if it does then you\'ve found your air leak. Not for the feint hearted.
Water - as long as the oil didn\'t overheat - and it sounds like you got it quick, you should be ok on the cooling front.
Injector cleanng - just chuck a half a bottle in a full tank and run it through with normal driving. If they are leaking - it might be hard to start when warm - then they most likely need replacing in the long run
Apart from that - enjoy :)
Hi Rob, most of what you have said, reminds me of when i got my egi, so realy wouldn\'t worry to much its just a case of working through the problems one by one but def sounds like she is running rich, the egi are well known for knackered & leaking fuel injectors, so she is probably using more fuel then she than she intends to. Anyway gets some pictures up of your motor! Hope she turns out to be ok for you, once they are sweet they are well worth it, James
Yea i\'ll take her out for some pictures today. might have seen it on ebay/pistonheads recently, grey one with white advan wheels.
Hmm, when it did heat up, when we poured fresh water in, it took about 1/2minutes before it could hold it down.
it does start right away first time every time still.
The top hose is kinda hard, but it is possible to squeeze :P just hard to say if its \'too\' hard or not.
Oh, yea, i remember driving last night, as i got to around 6300rpm while giving it a little go, and just the split second before i dipped the clutch i haerd a buzzer, does this have like a shift warning just before redline? i was too nervous to take it back up to see after this, since the add coolant light an buzzer.
only happend for a split second as i was already about to engage the clutch.
LOL.
Going to examine my gear stick today, try and tighten it up some how, feels like it will fall off o.0
and its first photoshoot. Will throw some pics up, downloaded some manuals on the car to brush up my knowledge..
Welcome to the club Rob! :wave I\'m sure that you will love your Egi! :Thumbsup!
They are definately thirsty... thirstier than a TII, you are looking at about 17-24 miles to the gallon! Eek! But hey it\'s 17-24 miles per gallon of fun! :D:3gears-rh
Yea definately fun. had my first spin out last night, probably first of many. left me with a massive grin.!!
can someone define. \'water pipe feels hard\' i mean, my celica\'s was always hard. and this one feels about the same. But i wouldnt call it at all soft, i cant squeeze it so i can feel the back of it, only slightly.
If its not much different than your Celica then I would think it\'ll be ok. They do have a buzzer that comes on at high revs. My TII comes on at 7k or so. They also have a buzzer for the coolant level as you most probably heard the other night! ;)
I remember seeing the car on Ebay. Very unique looking and running on Advans.
Quote from: RobXcore;632744Yea definately fun. had my first spin out last night, probably first of many. left me with a massive grin.!!
can someone define. \'water pipe feels hard\' i mean, my celica\'s was always hard. and this one feels about the same. But i wouldnt call it at all soft, i cant squeeze it so i can feel the back of it, only slightly.
When they say hard - they mean really hard - basically if the coolant system is getting pressurized by the engine it means water seals are gone. You will also get coolant being pushed through the overflow bottle and bubbling out of the overflow pipe at the front of the car.
And yes there is a buzzer at redline - on a stock ecu it will soft cut the engine - it basically just bounces off the limit - but it\'s a lot less aggressive than some cars. On chipped ecu\'s they often take the limit away - but the buzzer still remains. It\'s ok to redline these cars once they are warm - and indeed many believe that to be a good thing to do. :Thumbs-up
ahh, so if i dont have coolant gushing out the overflow, slight squueze on the pipe, no smoke, and my engine temp keeps low.
Its probably safe to assume the overheat mishap before didnt force me into a rebuild!
Thats nice to know.
Oh, so these engines will rev alot higher than the counter installed? safely is that? :P
Im starting to feel so glad i chose the rx over 200sx.
anyone got an old gear stick err, thing? at the base, somethings gone anyway its the bit that stops it wobbling all over the place?! it turns it into a maze to find where the gears are lol but selects fine. well apart from reverse.
pics going up on the gen2 page. :)
ah the old sloppy gear box. It takes a while, but once you\'re used to they\'re much nicer imo. Getting a short shifter is a quick fix too
Oh, so it wont get worse and like, drop off? !
I keep thinking im going to pull it out by accident or something. especially hunting down 3rd, or getting into 5th has like 3/4different positions that actually work, one of which gets very close to my steering wheel :P LOL
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=21
My thread with pics on..
haha you\'re just worrying now :P
not sure which bit u after.. but i got spare stick.
post a pic up of what u after just to make sure we on same page.
Yea, i working nights over weekend, so will get some pics on tues when i take dash apart to solve someones stupid wiring in there.
previous owners should write a manual of the crap they hook up, so all these half cut/crimped wires make sense.
Its whatever part cures the wobbling :) though im starting to get used to it.
Is it normal the amount of understeer i get in it? Was expecting to oversteer tbh, but maybe im just still getting used to it.
QuoteIs it normal the amount of understeer i get in it? Was expecting to oversteer tbh, but maybe im just still getting used to it.
Depends on the amount your getting really. At cadwell park a couple of months ago I was getting a little understeer as I powered on in a corner occationally but it was not bad at all really. They can take a bit of gettong used to with the passsive rear wheel steering. It feels funny at first.
screeching understeer? allllll the time, :)
I\'d think about getting some new tyres then. the only time I had understeer like that was when I had some really old tyres on the car. They were rock hard. Now i\'ve got some nice new Toyo T1R\'s and it don\'t happen now. With the old tyres I was worried about throwing it into corners incase it went straight on or turned in only for the rear of the car to come out. But the=at all went away with new rubber. What sort of tyres are on it?
Errr, cant remember, they\'re pretty good, and good grip. Wont wheel spin for long from standing just launches after second.
I kinda want the oversteering, since i\'ve never played with it much.
:cheers First oil change, filter done. Still no luck with the idling problem, but really is running smooth.
Though i swear my car is trying to kill me!!
sooo../
5litres of tesco mineral in there, tho the motor shop i buy parts from, their books say 5-30 synthetic only. So now im pretty not sure what i was ment to use, but i slapped the 10-30 mineral in anyway.
Todayyy, slap celica on pistonheads to sell, while fitting new brake pads all round, handbrake adjustment, and i\'d like to make it run just a slight bit less rich, someone got a picture they can draw on an post here to show me where to tweak.
Dunno if anyone still looking at this. .
I\'ll post elsewhere if not.
I\'m afterrrrr, one of the retaining bolts off the brake calipers. Well actually probably a whole caliper if anyone has uprated and has an old one lying around?!
I had to cut one of the slid bolts to get the pads out since it was seized on, so had to improvise by cutting up some bolts and \'making\' one. but its not soo great.
Then find that the inside pistons on the caliper are seized, so we tried to compress them, and pushed in some pads an reassembled to see the result. When bleeding them through (BTW IS THERE a correct order for this?) LOL
So we get it bled through, and pressure, fine, start it up get the pressure all right, touch the pedal .. to the floor, nothing, kept bleeding em through still nothing, so while pumping, the \'seized\' caliper moves like hell compensating for the seized pistons. and all the other calipers dont feel like there even twitching, prob just ancient lol. .
:S Stumped truly!!! had good strong brake pedal before, now nothing.
only wanted to change pads over :/
helppp ?!
any local guys free tomo fancy helping out :P ... will kill a day.
I\'ll get some pics up of my \'bodgee it slide bolt thing\'
first attempt was an old screw driver but it didnt work.
Sooo
-Brake bleeding order?
-Anyone with spare parts?
-OR least a retaining/slide bolt?
---any idea\'s on a CHEAP fix i\'m pulled tight skint already lol. :( and HAVE to cancel celica insurance/cash in tax before next week or 2.. ahaaa
CHEEEERS
cant help with mechanical stuff.. but \'speedline imports\' is breaking an fc and has calipers for sale £30 i think.. n quite a few others being broken.
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58365&page=5
or
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59256
else if u \'want\' sth then best to post in wanted section :)
cheers, yea, will do, should have searched really :P
just half assing it lol. was really getting used to driving the fc too, though just read somethin on bleeding the clutch :S though my clutch still works fine, we didnt bleed so maybe this has clogged my system, will be trying a fullll bleed tomo.
:( hate bleeding brakes, and have NO support, so its a one man job :P not going to work i believe ahaaa. :D will create a pressure bleeder i believe..
Nice to see another FC roaming the streets of the UK, I would come and give you a hand but Derby is quite a way from Essex, the idle issue I\'m pretty sure can be sorted out with a look in the haynes manual, if not do a little search on here for running rich or idle adjustment, hope to see you at a show or two soon.
BTW, how are you trying to unsieze the piston? WD40 and a g-clamp, may not be the most professional way but it usually gets the job done for the time being.
Yep, Gclamp was a fail tho, we only managed to move the pistons slightly just enough room to get the pad in. its not going to budge.
Do one side of the caliper at a time... leave the pad in the side you are not doing.
Use a block or a tyre lever to hold one piston in place, get a friend to pump the deal until the \'free\' piston move out by about 15mm. Lift the rubber carefully and spray a healthy amount of lubricant in there. Push the piston back in using the lever, repeat the process until the piston moves nicely.
Repeat as above for all 8 front pistons...never failed me yet.
If the rubbers are shot and the pistons corroded then I\'d replace the callipers... I think Dubber91 on here is breaking an EGi at the moment.
(Callipers are the same from EGi to TII as well)
:wave
Yea, theres NO chance of freeing the seized pistons LOL :) they are truly stuck.
So i just want to get some pressure so i can atleast stop for the next feww weeks to month :p til payday to be more precise. aha.
I thought you had to screw the pistons in to change the pads? It worked for me. I tried a clamp and failed to move it.
I changed the pads by sliding out the old ones after removing the slide pins ? ? (on front) only toook the caliper off because it was siezed.. Though how do you screw the pistons?!
The rear callipers wind out and in, the fronts are the traditional sliding piston type.
(You think the fronts have been fun..wait until you start on the rears...)
Just get some grips and turn the piston, Honda rear calipers (crx) are the same. dont push them if you do you can ruin the threading.
Ash
:S you sure they thread?! because 2 of the pistons pushed in by hand with very minimal resistance? :s well confused now.
the fronts should jut push in, the rears screw in, just to clear up any possible confusion
lol thanks. Havent even made it to the rears yet, strugggling too much tryin to condition this caliper.
I\'ll have a set of fronts for sale soon if you still need them.
if you are doing the rears - go and get the winding tool - best £20 i ever spent :D :D
spend about 40 mins trying to get the piston back in , bought the tool , 4 seconds later it was all done !!
if you think you are having fun - look at my thread on changing the discs :D
Quote from: grinder;634279if you are doing the rears - go and get the winding tool - best £20 i ever spent :D :D
spend about 40 mins trying to get the piston back in , bought the tool , 4 seconds later it was all done !!
if you think you are having fun - look at my thread on changing the discs :D
I still can\'t picture you parting with an actual £20 note :evillaugh:Tongue1
lol. got the discs off already while changing these,
It was trying to cheat out of buying new ones by unseizing the front one. but theres no movement in 2 of the pots, thus just clamping one side and pushing against disc. so i\'ve cheated now while i get hold A new caliper for drivers front. cheap :P by wedging stuff between the seized pistons and brake pads, so theres minimal movement on the opposing side, so no disc play, and an actual hard pedal
GENIUS. . though i wouldnt assume its going to last more than few weeks at best, nor at high speed lol