at the weekend i removed the airpump and ACV on my EGI but now she wont start... i have blocked the 1 pipe that went to the acv that was left on the car but she just starts then dies...
Anyone got any pics of a egi engine with the airpump removed?
Could it be because i have welded up the 4 slots on the exhaust downpipe were it joins my de-cat pipe?
Have you blanked off all the vacuum pipes that are now not needed?
The exhaust side will be nothing to do with the car not starting.
I thought i had but i might not have,
My ACV (assume thats what it is, drivers side just above the exhaust mani), this has been removed along with the round disc inside it and blanked and the 2 small pipes that went to it blocked off, the big pipe that went to the "muffler" under the headlight has been left open, the metal pipe on the manifold has been left open,
The pipe that went to the cat has been blocked at the cat end,
Pics and vids of whats been blocked and her running are at :
no other pipes have been changed except for the homemade cat on it, http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/Ste00/
laptop is currently sat ontop of the car so quick replys would be super helpful on this one :)
Did you remove the uim? If so have you checked the ICV plug, white plug behind/under the uim. I left this off and she wouldn\'t start
No all i have took off is the Airpump and the ACV that it connected to on the outside of the engine above the exhaust manifold,
Is their somthing on a EGI that i have to take off on the UIM?
Right a quick up-date,
She seems to fire up do the whole 3k revs thing then the instant she comes off the 3k rev thing she cuts out...
Anyone any ideas? i am tearing my hair out and want her back on the road ASAP
set everything up correctly, TPS,idle,check all the Vac lines etc. If this does not work then it may be something unrelated to the work you have had done in air pump removal.
Give the AFM a good exercise amd make sure you have good fuel pressure.
Theres plenty of info on this topic on the rx7club.com site that might give you some better pointers, I think there is more to do on the EGI\'s than the TII\'s.
Right i have done some more digging today and found this: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_s4_na_emissions_removal.html followed number 28 as i dont want to remove all the rats nest and UIM unless i have to...
problem is their pic (http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/graphics/86-88_na_emis_remove/image053.jpg)
Differs from my engine :
Also their point 27 (the one under 30 strangly...) i dont have that valve on mine...
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/Ste00/IMG00020.jpg)
I dont seem to have the same pipes around mine as theirs does...
also i manged to get her started before (after blowing the main 80a fuse by being a idiot that doesnt know + from -, damm lucky thats all i blew though) she will run if i give her some right foot but i dont want to give her right foot all the time... also when she did run their was a cloud of black smoke under the bonnet... so i am thinking weather my blanking plate was sealing... or is the exhaust leaking... or is she about to go pop...
starting to wish i had of not bothered making the de-cat now... :2Rolleyes
I still cant get her to idle... she will run with throttle on but instant she hits idle she sounds like a V8 and seems to mssfire...
If it runs with gas, and also when warming up, but as soon as it\'s warm and you let off the gas it dies off, then you almost certainly have a vac leak. You need to get some carb cleaner or something that will burn (be careful with this or it might not go too well ;) ) and spray it around the area you\'ve been working - ie at any blanking plates etc. If the rev\'s pick up when you spray on something that\'s where your leak is. It won\'t need to be all that big either - a small bolt size hole will kill the idle.
might be best to undo what you have done and see if the probelm still persists, bit of work I know but if you have done all the things that have been suggested you might not have much choice.
Quote from: Prof;618954If it runs with gas, and also when warming up, but as soon as it\'s warm and you let off the gas it dies off, then you almost certainly have a vac leak. You need to get some carb cleaner or something that will burn (be careful with this or it might not go too well ;) ) and spray it around the area you\'ve been working - ie at any blanking plates etc. If the rev\'s pick up when you spray on something that\'s where your leak is. It won\'t need to be all that big either - a small bolt size hole will kill the idle.
So its not somthing that i have blocked off that i shouldnt have? is their anything that could make the engine go bang if blocked?
I think i will get some carb cleaner at the weekend and keep the fire extingusher handy...
Need to get her running again soon so i can finish the re-spray and do the brakes...
As far as I know, the only thing that stops working when you remove the air pump on an N/A EGI is the aux port actuators - these are the round canister things in your picture which use air pressure to open up to additional ports at higher rpm. There is a right up somewhere on how to replace these with electric actuation.
Quote from: Prof;619305As far as I know, the only thing that stops working when you remove the air pump on an N/A EGI is the aux port actuators - these are the round canister things in your picture which use air pressure to open up to additional ports at higher rpm. There is a right up somewhere on how to replace these with electric actuation.
My picture is the larger one of the two, mine doesn\'t have the 2 actuators... now i am getting really confused? :3Confused
So is mine a EGI with only 4 ports? as the castings for were the actuators look like they should go are blanked off from the factory not with plates...
Quote from: Ste00;619506My picture is the larger one of the two, mine doesn\'t have the 2 actuators... now i am getting really confused? :3Confused
So is mine a EGI with only 4 ports? as the castings for were the actuators look like they should go are blanked off from the factory not with plates...
You got me - I thought all the EGI\'s had those - where is Brett when you need him !?
Just out of interest - the pipe you\'ve blanked with a bolt - is that bolt one with a hole in or is it solid ?
Quote from: Prof;619570You got me - I thought all the EGI\'s had those - where is Brett when you need him !?
Just out of interest - the pipe you\'ve blanked with a bolt - is that bolt one with a hole in or is it solid ?
Its solid, I think what i will do is get some new pics when i get home tonight of what i have removed and done ect and post them up (i\'m sat in a airconditioned office in conwy at the moment that is still 20 odd degrees+)
I am at a loss as to why my engine seems different :(
right she now idles (blanking plate was lose on one bolt)
but she is bouncing around like mad and sounds like a sewing mechine... she has oil pressure so i am thinking its a missifire... do i need to ajust the idle using the initial set thing and the screw ontop of the mainfold to try and get her smoother? she was never this bad with the airpump on...
You will need to adjust the idle as I had to on mine. Also you will have to check the TPS after each adjust as it can throw it off.
Well done on getting it to idle, it can only get better from here.
so is it supposed to sound like a sewing mechine until i ajust it? if it was a normal engine i would say it was the top end rattling...
Yes - unfortunately the timing / tps / idle all seem to conspire together - you set one correctly and then need to go set the others again. I normally start with getting the idle revs about right once the car is well warm. Then I set the TPS using the resistance method - not sure if you\'ve got single or dual TPS on the EGI - I can give you method for dual - single you\'ll find on the fc3spro.com site.
Once the idle and TPS are sorted, I set the timing with all the electricals switched off. Then I let the car cool down and start it again - if the TPS is correct it shouldn\'t \'hunt\' as it warms up. You may still have a small vac leak if it hunts by the way.
Well done for finding the cause of it not holding idle - these things aren\'t easy to find sometimes.
ok thats good then... just panicing that i had killed somthing else in the process of removing the airpump...
Guess at the weekend its time to get the timing gun out... might evean treat it to a oil change since she is in a good mood...
Thanks for all the help everyone... think i might have to get the credit card out and become a full member at this rate
Thats the trouble with these engine is that even simple jobs can be long and drawn out for the silly little things. Its quite easy to look too deep when the answer is nearly always right under your nose. On the timing side as Dave has already stated its important to time the car when its nice and hot so that your cold start side of things does not interfer with the idle.
Glad this Forum has given the answers you need, get yourself a Full member on here and post some pics of your car, its always nice to see what others are up to.
Go back to basics - what did you disturb? If you did touch it, don\'t change it in a effort to fix the issue. Everything said, says an air leak. Couple of basic I have learnt with my six port engine. UK and US 6 port engines are quite different, the US 6-port actuator is gets a pressure signal from exhaust back pressure, the actuators are the big lumps forward and behind the blanking plated added to LIM. The UK model has a vacuum controlled actuator, these are located on the other side of the LIM and mounted to the engine casing. Our engines have a butterfly valve, US models have a slide valve. The ECU controls a solenoid valve and the vacuum is allowed to open valves. The valves open an additional port in the manifold for extra high end power - if these function or not is nothing to do with low rpm running, if stuck open (they fail closed) only results in less torque.
When I removed my air pump I remember adding two planking plates. one at the rear of the LIM, I think, can check tonight.
The timing should not have changed by removing the air pump, our distributer is also different from the US. It should be a mechanical advance with vacuum advance on leading a trailing also.
Get someone to sit in your car and rev high enough to run. Use a tube (1/2" or similar), put one end to your ear and move the other end around the areas of the LIM and you should hear the rush of air leaking in to the inlet manifold. The air leak will be on the LIM or UIM.
John
johnm, She is running and idling now but sounds like a sewing machine (if i could find the cable for my phone I would up-load a vid)
I did try to adjust the idle with the screw ontop of the UIM before i found the airleak so now its probably miles out... seems to idle ok but rattles a lot... the oil pressure is good though and the engine was rebuilt not long ago by hurley and has never rattled before... so i am thinking its somthing to do with the TPS and idle throwing the wrong signals to the ecu as the engine seems to "bounce" on idle now (shakes the car a bit)...
The TPS does make things run rough if defective or set incorrectly. If it has failed you can get a replacement from RS Components, bought mine ages ago so idea of the part number.
HUGE bump...
got my thumb out of a cirtan hole and now setup the TPS and the screw on top of the intake and she finally idle\'s... tad over 1k but its constant... (assuming i did right, disconnect the tps when the engine is warm then set the resistance to 1 closed and 5 open (though mine would only hit 4.7 open))
now the only issue i have is how do i get it to drop back to ~750 as when i reduce the screw on top of the intake any more it starts to stutter...
need to get her back on the road asap my 4x4 is drinking more fuel than this did when the tank was leaking...