Hi all, I am at my wits end and need help urgently as i am supposed to be on the track on saturday at castle coombe jap fest (birthday present from my gf) so its important, right here goes:-
About 2 weeks ago I blew my gearbox on my 93 FD, prior to this I had been having difficulty getting into 1st and reverse having to turn the engine off putting it into gear and starting the engine, then all gears went. I have subsequently aquired a new gearbox in very good condition that selects all gears.
My blown gearbox had been converted from a pull to a push clutch as I have a twin hard plate RE Amemiya clutch to which I had fitted new plates when rebuilding the engine only 3000 miles ago, a new release/pilot bearings were also installed, I have transfered the push mechanism to the new gearbox also installing a new clutch slave cylinder, the master cylinder was replaced 3000 miles ago with the engine build, the gearbox has been installed, gearbox oil topped up, hydraulics bled and pedal adjusted, the push mechanism is OS geinken as to which the plates are as Re Amemiya dont make them anymore but are an exact match supplied by Co-ord sport.
As far as I can see I have covered all angles yet I still connot select 1st or reverse and 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th are slightly notchy, can anyone tell me where I have gone wrong as I don`t want to take the box off again as its damn heavy and I`m out of time, Thanks Ade
I would say that the clutch isn\'t releasing properly... could be a bent clutch fork inside the box if you are having the same simptoms with the new box, plates, cylinders etc fitted!!! unfortunatly matey this is where I would start as it is the only bit that hasn\'t been changed by the sounds of it :(
Jono
what about the little cup on the end of the gear lever... in the box if this wears doesnt it make it hard to select too...???
Thanks for the replies guys, I totally forgot to check the clutch fork, although as I was testing it while the box was off the car it did work perfectly but that was by hand not with the slave cylinder, I dont know how far the slave cylinder pushes out when the clutch pedal is pressed? when I do press the clutch I can hear the plates rattling, if I wedge the clutch pedal down and look under the car through the inspection plate I see the release bearing move about 10 mm, as for the little cup I know what you mean, is there something I can do to see if it is that? thanks again Ade:Thumbs-up
take the gear stick out and see if its warn through
Ok if its the OS Giken Push pull convertor you have to adjust the rod that goes into the slave cylinder, if its too short it will give you the symtoms you describe, you have lengthen the rod slightly by undoing the locknut and screw the engage nut to be a little longer by a couple of mill
Quote from: BlitzBoy;607918Ok if its the OS Giken Push pull convertor you have to adjust the rod that goes into the slave cylinder, if its too short it will give you the symtoms you describe, you have lengthen the rod slightly by undoing the locknut and screw the engage nut to be a little longer by a couple of mill
Can this be done without removing the gearbox again mate?
yes, all you need to do is unbolt the clutch slave cylinder off the gearbox bellhousing,you will need to remove the starter motor first to get proper access, once you have moved the slave cylinder out of the bell housing you can remove the rod from it and adjust it, take a pic of the rod and I can see how much you need to adjust it by.
Nice one dude gunna do that now, please leave me your number if you go offline
Hiya mate, i have removed the slave cylinder, I undid the locknut and thats off, I can see 4 threads on the adjuster screw or do I take the whole thing out?
Scratch that last post, I`ve just worked out what you mean`t ( the nut on the end of the rod going into the slave cylinder) that will teach me not to rush!! back in a few mins
the adjustment is right at the bottom, there are 11 threads on show, cant take a pic how may threads do you think there should be?
adjust the nut on the end of rod to 6 threads on show see how that works
Cheers mate, will have another go in the week, have done it a few threads and it feels much better, really appreciate your intel on this I was really not lookin forward to takin the box off again thanks again Ade :Thumbs-up
Hi again, need some more advise on this problem, I have adjusted it so there are 6 threads showing and put it back together, I am still having trouble getting 1st and reverse and all the other gears are still notchy, I can hear the plates rattling so I know that when I put the clutch in it is disengaging the clutch from the flywheel so how can this still be a problem, if it were low on gearbox oil could this be the problem? when the engine is off it goes into every gear nice. I don`t really want to adjust it out anymore as it looks very close to the end off the push rod on the slave cylinder, if I put it in gear and start the engine it tugs a little but does start and settle at 1000rpm any help would be greatly appreciated, tahnks in advance Ade :Thumbs-up
Right then ive found out the problem, one of my friction plates is sticking on the flywheel, I`ve also noticed that the centerplates are different thicknesses, can anyone tell me if it matters which order they go in? its a twin hard plate (no springs) Re Amemiya push clutch but its exactly the same as an Os Giken. Gearbox is off again, thats three times now, I`m getting to be an expert! can strip the lot in less than an hour now lol! Also any ideas why it would stick? whilst under the car I managed to free it up and it went in all gears but as soon as I took my foot off and put it back on again it stuck, thanks in advance Ade 07834328788b:)