Actually I Lie. It will start, sounds really rough as it tries to idle but then eventually dies. The rev counter gets up to 2000-2500 rpm.
I had a look at the injector duty and it was up to 22%!!! Since then I have backed off the FPR as I thought that could be choking it. It\'s now at about 35 psi with the vacuum advance on.
Fuel gauge has the warning light on. Previously I drained the tank and put in a gallon tank of super. Surely it doesn\'t need more than this in to run properly? It\'s a standard fuel pump so the pick-up should be okay.
Sounds like the vacuum line to the MAP sensor is disconnected or broken in some way
I had a look at this and changed the Vac hose from the MAP sensor from some 6mm stuff to some 4mm, but it\'s still doing the same thing (I guess it is slightly better). Which way round should the filter go (or does it make a difference?) in the MAP sensor tubing? I\'ve got it so the fat end is furthest away from the MAP sensor.
If I keep the revs at 2500-3000 rpm then it will stay running.
if I take my foot off the gas then it\'s almost like its hunting, but really wildly from 2000rpm (where it sounds fine) down to 700 rpm where it stalls, but it has a couple of attempts of the hunting almost stalls carries on and then stalls.
There seems to be a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust, but I think this could be because it is running rich.
The other thing is do I have the throttle cable set up properly? There are two semi-circular things (I don\'t know their proper name) on the throttle body for the cable to attach to. I\'ve attached it to the outer one...but I\'m thinking when I took it off it was on the inner one. However when I came to re-attacg it last week the bracket with the holes in wouldn\'t let it fit properly.
I would change the vac hose back to the original for the time being, dont have the filter on the sensor tubing for the time being as well just in case its fduked.
I assume you have a Commander on your Apexi ECU, check the readings for boost on your commander make sure its reading correctly, if the reading is incorrect then you have found teh problem
The throttle cable position would not give you those problems
Okay, well I\'m not sure what the boost should look like on a single turbo, but I think actually it may be sucking air from somewhere.
Before I switch anything on The Apexi and the boost gauge are reading a slight vacuum.
When I rev it the Vacuum increases. When I had twins I\'m sure it went to -500mg then started to get closer to atmosphere and positive boost as you revved it.
However, as it revs it is gaining in vacuum. i.e. not gaining any boost.
I know the turbo is spooling because its a ball-bearing turbo and I cn still hear it spinning when the engine stalls.
Ok so you are reading boost on the commander, do you have a boost guage as well do the readings match?
Have you changed anything fuelling wise?
Yeah the boost readings are pretty similar.
Fuelling wise I\'ve got a new secondary rail with 1680cc injectors, I haven\'t programmed these into the commander yet as I wouldn\'t have thought they would affect the idle.
Changed the Fuel pressure regulator to an aeromotive one, which I\'m pretty sure is hooked up properly (fuel in - side port, fuel return - bottom port). The gauge on that is saying that the fuel pressure with the vacuum on it about 35-37psi, which may be a bit high.
I haven\'t changed the fuel pump.
Can\'t see, smell or hear and fuel leaks.
aha!! the base pressure is too high so running pig rich!
Ok your base pressure with engine switched off and vacuum line off the pressure reg needs to be 38psi, you can jump the wires on the diagnostic port to get the pump working when the engine is not on
I\'ve backed off the fuel pressure to 35psi with no vacuum, it\'s now sitting at about 30psi with it attached. However the same thing is still happening.
Although it sounds a bit better and not so much like a tractor.
try about 27psi with the vacuum line on, although it wont matter change the seconday injectors on the commander to the maximum value of 1500
Just had a look at the commander injector settings and it has 0cc for both.
That can\'t be right can it?! If a PFC is unplugged for a while it can\'t lose its settings can it?
I guess I should set these to the appropriate levels.
no thats defo not right.
Even if the ecu had reset itself it would default to original settings of 550 and 850.
Was this mapped originally by a tuner?
hmmmm. Well I reset them to 550cc for primaries 1500cc for the secondaries and 100% Pulse correction value (as in the manual)
Cranked it and then it dies again.
Went back into the settings and the values had gone!
I have installed an FJO injector driver, but I don\'t think this would erase all the values in the the Power FC.
are all four injectors connected to the FJO?
Yup. it should be able to drive both types of injector. Shaunwil has fitted his like this and doesn\'t have any trouble.
I finished work will check the thread later on,
personally I would disconnect the FJO temporarily and revert back to stock wiring just to get it running.
I think you only connect the FJO to secondaries with no resistors
Just had a look at the rev/idle settings as well and they are all at 0rpm!!!
Should I just set it to self learn again?
Update on this: Looking at all the settings it looks as if they have been lost!!!
So I think it is trying to go into self-learn mode again. Talking to a local garage they reckon that it\'s not unheard of (although rare) for the Power FC to lose its data, or rather the Map just doesn\'t load up or something.
is it a second hand ecu sounds like it could have a password on it or be protected
No. I bought it brand new a couple of years ago. It\'s had a couple of maps put on it.
Apparently it is rare that an Apexi loses its map (or rather it just can\'t find it) but it does happen.
who put the maps on it?
So Its definately Lost the map ??
The FJO should find what type of injectors your running (low/high impedance) and adjust to suit. Theres no way it would wipe a map. Its just a signal convertor.
Shaun
if someone has loaded up a map on Mr Gonzoninja Apexi they protect the map and it will only show zeros on some of the settings through the commander
The later models of the FC have been known to totally drop data. Possibly due to poor quality control during the \'hard\' years Apexi went through.
J
The most recent map on it was a running in map put on by Carl Hayward. I don\'t know if he protects his maps?
He may have done some tuners do, give him a bell, things like the Timing map etc will defo show 0s when protected on the commander
Spoke to Carl Hayward and he does password protect his maps. But he is puzzled why this is happening if the primary injectors have stayed the same.
Think I might try and isolate the FJO injector driver, to see if that\'s the issue.
Okay, well this weekend I fitted a wideband lambda O2 kit, and by messing with the fuel pressures a bit I managed to get it started and running.
Unfortunately it seems to be only running on one rotor...which isn\'t good.
Looking at the AFRs, it seems to start at about 13.3, which is a little rich (I guess) and seems quite steady, but after a while, it seems to hunt a bit again and the AFRs go all over the place, ranging from about 12 point something, when it revs high, dropping down to 16.8 when it gets down to 1000 revs (is this too low?!).
Haven\'t checked the spark-plugs yet, but if it\'s been running rich would this had fouled the plugs badly enough to stop them firing?
Did you isolate the FJO ??
The plugs could have fouled up.
Shaun
No. I just messed around with the fuel pressure a bit. Got it running on both rotors now. It is lumpy as hell, but the main thing is that its running. AFRs are about 13.3 when the revs rise, so it may still be running a bit too rich.
So what to do now?
Well its running, so I just need to keep an eye on the AFR\'s and do a couple of test drives, then get it down to Carl Hayward to Map
Good to hear. Hope the mapping goes well :D
Shaun
if its lumpy, check all your earths or even use a jump lead from block to chassis, also check map sensor pipes and all vaccum nipples that you have blocked off or worked on.
what did you do to get it running on both??
Hello everyone. After making my car single tub and put a map on from blitz i have these problems. im driving to 4500 rpm max and hardly touching boost till im happy
1) Running super rich. but then im running a mild ported map on a non ported motor and my base fuel pressure is 42psi (high) for safety.
What ive done so far: waiting for laptop to get the wideband on to check the afrs.
reduced base fpr from 42 to 35ish. The car runs better now. will check colour of plugs in the weekend. (I HOPE THIS IS SAFE)
2) I am getting ignition breakup after 3500rpm.
I assume this is because of my battery being in the boot and it isnt earthed as well as it should be. Although the connection looks sound.
Solution: I am going to run a wire from - back to the front of the car onto the engine then onto the shell from the engine as well as from the battery to the boot. ill see if this helps
3)The car is idling really high 2000 rpm.
What ive done so far:
checked for leaks: none found.
adjust all the throttle settings: it worked for 2 mins then rised again
i reduced the baseline fuel pressure: this worked for 2 minutes then rised again.
will a idle learning procedure cure this? If so how do i do one considering my heaters dont work?
Any other ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated...need to get idle down
After a while of not running right, I got it trailered over to Jason at Super 7 Autos.
The guy is a legend! Went through the car bit by bit about found out what was wrong...apparently a it was the wiring of the injectors. Oops.
Anyway, all fixed now and drove it back today with a basic map on it.
Sweet.
Just though I\'d put up a quick picture of the engine bay.
i have 2 things to say after looking at that picture, 1st i wouldn\'t be happy with my fpr that close to the exhaust, especially using rubber hose. 2nd how have you avoided the ps pump with the pipe from the ic to your elbow, and can we have a closer pic.
looking very tidy by the way.
Matt
Yeah I\'ve got to spend a bit of time heat shielding everything. I did the hotside of the turbo yesterday, however all the pipes will be getting heat shielding too.
Eventually I\'ll be getting a vented bonnet.
The intercooler pipe to the elbow has a well positioned dent in the bottom of it to get it over the power-steering stuff. It probably restricts the flow slightly, but I don\'t think it will be enough to cause any problems.