I ended up Redlining the car in first !!STUPID YES.. the car backfired, loud bang and after that it lost power,
It kept driving but soon as I eased of the accelarator it would cut out so I had to keep starting it at traffic lights to get it going again... and beleive me it was as if it doesnt want to wake up.
There is no smoke, no coolant loss, all else looks fine apart from the fact that it keeps cutting out when the accelarator is let go, wont stay idling.
keeps going off.
I am fearing I have killed the engine and that it needs a rebuild,
but would just like some guidance or advice as to what else this could be,,
THANK you in advance for all advice
Firstly, redlining the engine is not a bad things: it\'s generally regarded as a good thing and should be done once per driving session.
What car is it? FD?
If so, i would first check the hose going to the MAP sensor, as this sometimes pops off and can cause symptoms similar to yours.
Don\'t worry (too much) - the backfire / v.loud bang / loss of power is the default rev limiter kicking in. Mine does the same (along with a flash from flames out the \'xorst)
If you\'d thrown a rotor tip / cracked a seal, the engine would be running rough - \'like a tractor\' is the usual description, i think.
unfortunately, I can\'t comment much beyond that, but as Nik says, redlining a rotary (in any gear :p) isn\'t a bad thing (although hitting the limiter is not so good, it\'s not a disaster either)
should be fine to redline it as long as you dont hold it there for too long :Thumbsup!
Quote from: logicalChimp;601681unfortunately, I can\'t comment much beyond that, but as Nik says, redlining a rotary (in any gear :p) isn\'t a bad thing (although hitting the limiter is not so good, it\'s not a disaster either)
Pfft, nowt wrong with a regular trip to the limiter, it\'s where they\'re happiest :)
What did you last change the sparks bud? Mine did this a while back, just need a fresh pair.
The best thing to do initially is an audible compression test, the only tool you need is a plug spanner, and with any luck the tool kit in the boot may stilll have one!
(NOTE THIS IS A VERY BASIC METHOD OF INSPECTION AND SHOULD BE USED AS A GUIDE ONLY)
Remove the top plug from the front housing and remove the main egi fuse by the battery, crank the engine and listen. You should hear a regular \'phhhhhht\' noise which is each phase/pulse of the compression. Now replace the front top spark plug and remove the rear top spark plug and carry out the same test. If there is a significant difference or irregular pulse, this indicates a damaged engine.
thanks for advice guys,
It is fd3 1995 model, I have checked the map sensor, pipe still connected so no problems there,
I left it off for a day and started it again and same thing so I, dont think I have flooded it eigther, so I will try and do the compression check with the spark plugs,
just wondering if the sparkplugs are fouled would it give the same symptoms ie,
keeps cutting out, wont stay idling on its own..
Mine did bud, it backfired like a cannon, then the idle kept dropping down and cutting out, then it just would not start at all.
Don\'t forget that the higher it revs, the more oil it gets :) plus not red-lining it will cause carbon buildup
i forgot to mention after i parked up that day i noticed the boost controller pipe from the blitz sbc unit in the engine had came of infact torn of, so i fixed it back, but the problem still persists.
Just checked to see if anything has came off, and cant see nothing loose, have checked all main pipes sensors etc, car seems to stay idling above 2000 BUT soon as i let it drop under that it cuts out, so i have adjusted the idle to 2000,
I even reset the ecu, left battery off kept brake pressed,
but cant seem to see anything silly that could have gone wrong
i drove it and the car has absolutely no power, dont even sound like it did before, I have not changed the spark plugs yet, will do so tommorow,
somehow I dont think that will change anything..,.. just wondering is there anything else that i should check apart from spark plugs,
So you are on stock ecu with a boost controller???
How much boost are you running???
Yes it has a stock ecu. and Blitz sbc controller,
dont know what boost its running as dont understand the boost controller so have not messed around with it
First thing is to either do the audile compression test or get it compression tested properly.
You need to find out how much boost you are running also, important.
Quote from: marcosgarcia;602535i forgot to mention after i parked up that day i noticed the boost controller pipe from the blitz sbc unit in the engine had came of infact torn of, so i fixed it back, but the problem still persists.
This is the worrying thing - if that happened then the boost won\'t have been properly controlled, you could potentially have had as much boost as your tubby could churn out, which would be very bad news for your engine :(
been very busy, so now got a bit a time to spend on my baby,,,
these are the facts
- The car is not loosing no water
- Starts from hot or cold
- Difficulty in keeping idle as cuts out unless reved over 1500rpm
I have a feeling it needs a rebuild, would this require a basic rebuild as it is not loosing water and seems to still start and drive, with no overheating
Where in London are you?
Sorry to jump in on this thread, but I thought an FD3 did not have a rev limiter?:3Confused
maybe you can post a pic of your instrument cluster?