I have had a small oil leak from the compressor housing on the rear turbo of my stock twin set-up..
They generally work fine just over boost a but if not careful where the actuator fills up with oil I think.. Anyway.. today I was coming home and had my foot down over taking something and heard a sort of balloon pop sound and felt the car lurch and slow in acceleration. I then noticed afterwards.. When I accelerated my first stage turbo was working fine and as soon as the second stage kicked in I lost all boost and could hear air wooshing from somewhere. Has the second turbo given up the go or has a pipe split? Cannot understand why I would hear air potentially escaping and loose boost if it was turbo failure but then it is quite a weird setup!
Help please!
Thank you
Lee
P.S.
I am working on getting a new turbo but funds are a little pushed at the mo!
Check the y-pipe connector from the turbos to the intercooler bud. Mines popped of about 3 times and caused the same probs you have.
Y- Pipe?? I thought the y-pipe was metal?? I couldn\'t see anything under my bonnet from above.. Will look further.. Fonrt of the engine? Side?
How come it\'s keeps boost on the first turbo if its a pipe to the intercooler?
Cheers
Lee
No pipes off that I can see.. Or split?? If the second/rear turbo had seized would the air be able to pass back through it from the first turbo and hence loose all boost? Alternatively could the air re-circ valve have stuck open and be causing pressure loss that way?
Cheers
Lee
The y-pipe connector is usually a black plastic/rubbery pipe bud, feeds the air into the cross over pipe that leads to the standard I/C. Best thing is to take if off and check it for leaks, take of the strut brace and the cross over pipe, then you\'ll be able to take it off quite easily. It\'s located on the left side of the engine looking from the front.
But it could also be the CRV or a buggered solenoid tbh bud. Most are a cheap fix but the solenoids take ages to replace as you have to take off the UIM and this can take a couple of hours first time you do it.
not the y-pipe...the y-pipe connector
its a plastic connector that connexts the y-pipe to the pipe that leads into the IC.
Their prone to cracking/breaking and often replaced with a silicone coupling or a >96 bolted assembly.
Thanks for that. I thought I had got it with the Re-circ valve but no joy.. I just went out and took the recirc pipe off blew down it and air passed throught (still connected to the car) then I went to take it off the car and pulled the little vaccum pipe off and air wooshed in and the valve worked fine.. i.e I could not blow air through it! So the vac is fine to the re-circ I gather or should it not hold open even when connected to the car and the engine is not running? When I did the same for the bottom recirc valve for the fornt turbo I could nt blow down it even before I took off the little vac pipe? But maybe that draws it\'s vac differently?
My only thought with the intercooler pipe is how would I get boost on the 1st turbo with no sign of a leak? Clear as day when the second turbo solenoid opens boost goes and air leaks or passes through somewhere without creating boost!
Cheers
Lee
Just finished running mine in, gonna book it in for a map, but mine is doing exactly the same thing!
Hey mate.. That is a pain!
I have not checked any of my solenoids or valves so do not know for certain what the cause was yet. However when I took the turbo\'s off the rear unit had a massive amount of end float and was leaking oil which I had suspected might have been on it\'s way out for ages.. Not sure if its possible that would cause the leak? Other than that I think it\'s a case of going through the rat\'s nest and seeing if a one way valve or somehting is broken?
Good luck
Lee
Hi leeroy,
Ill dig the tester out that i used to check my fault codes :)
There is a link on the net somewhere to do it, just count the flashes of the L.E.D and away you go.
I done this to mine and it flashed up that two of my solenoids were buggered, the charge control and the one to the left (cant remember what its called).
Bare with me and ill post it up.
Matt
Thanks for the offer Matt but the whole lot is off mine in the process of a single turbo conversion! Sounds like DM might be in more need than me at the moment!? If you find out what has gone on yours I have two complete sets of solenoids and rat nests so maybe I can sort you out?
Thanks again though
Regards
Lee
No worries bud,
Im popping up the workshop tomorrow so hopefully looking at it for 2mins will jog my memory :)
Do you have an e-mail i can get you on?
Cheers
Matt
Hey,
mine has just started to do exactly this. Has been fine for months since build and mapping arghhhh
Spoke to Tim and he said to check piping etc
Checked plastic y-pipe connector, and ic pipes and seems fine arghh
Matt did you source what was the cause of this?
Solenoid?
Please help i\'m losing the plot
Hi mate,
Right:Giggle
I found a hose had popped off the actuator on the 2nd turbo, it took me bloody ages tracing and re-tracing all the pipework lol!.
Then too top it all off the boost diagram that does the rounds has seven solinoids and import rx7\'s have six, so you can imagine when i first carried out changing the pipes i got a wee bit confused:spank
Once it was all piped up properly i pulled the fault codes from the diagnostic port and found a couple of solinoids were buggered.
Fun days fault finding, but interesting stuff :)
what did u use as a light as i didnt think fd3s hd mil lights
Quote from: yappa;652746what did u use as a light as i didnt think fd3s hd mil lights
Sorry mate i dont get what your asking?
There is a link on the net somewhere to do it, just count the flashes of the L.E.D and away you go.
i mean where is the led as i didnt think fd3s had engine management lights
Quote from: yappa;653152There is a link on the net somewhere to do it, just count the flashes of the L.E.D and away you go.
i mean where is the led as i didnt think fd3s had engine management lights
I put a how to up in the 3rd gen section mate, got loads of views but know one said anything lol........ill dig it out.:rolleyes:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60394
so i take it u put the led between the 2 terminals of the diagnostic connector and by the way thanks so much for the link i hope i can finally be drivin my car again
My 1st stage works fine, then exactly the same thing happen, as what leeroy is experiencing. I took everything of, re fitting some new hosing, and replaced all clips with jubilee clips. Put back together, same problem. No I wonder if I have put it back together properly. I will post some pics later thismorning.
Hi Yappa,
Yep get the L.E.D and place it between ten and grd turn the ignition on and strt counting the flashes;)
OneTrack,
Yeah go for it mate, mybe be able to get it up and running :)
Matt
Sorry guy, been trying for a while now. Got photos, but no idea how to post them. Please help lol
matt thanks for all your help with the links and advice hopefully ill b driving again soon
Quote from: onetrack86;653883Sorry guy, been trying for a while now. Got photos, but no idea how to post them. Please help lol
Just imprint the img code from the picture mate...... on photobucket there is a link underneath the picture dude, just copy and paste :)
Quote from: yappa;653902matt thanks for all your help with the links and advice hopefully ill b driving again soon
No worries dude, hope you get it sorted :)