if you have any or know of any please let me know.
My email is james_db @ btconnect .com
id rather not pay £100 to have mazda ship some from japland
thanks :d
Take a look at BlackDragon automotive - they may have some shiney ones :D
they have them, not sure if they\'re the right type.
can someone confirm please
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/rx/full.aspx?Page=32
bottom left
thanks for the link brett :D
Those are for the 1st gen... (unless they are the same from 1st gen to 2nd gen Egi? Wouldn\'t like to say...)
i believe many british s4 NA\'s came with 4 stud wheels and the s3 distributer and older coils
-- these round oil filled coils are made by diamond ( mitsu ) or hanshin
in other markets ( in aus particularly ) we saw no distributor equipped s4 NA
-- we had the full ECU model ,, and our coils are the same as those on the T2
this "turbo" system is a wastespark twin leading coil with igniter
,, and two trailing coils with a shared igniter ( with a flop transistor between them )
the turbo and NA in these markets share the same coils,, one marked with the original 6 port code N 326, other N 318
if you have the old distibuter systems,, the likely culprit is one or both of the J109 igniters on the side of the dizzy
( and also,, to a lesser extent the condition of the internal earthing on the inside races inside the advance mech )
-- these have more than had there day,, to see them erratic is OH so common
in australia,, its common to replace them with bosch ignition modules
-- and better,, twin up the leading side and wire those coils direct
-- this gives a system with wastespark direct fire leading ,, just like the t2
read up on up DLIDFIS,, its often cheaper than replacing the J109 !!
----see if you can source the BIM024 modules locally = bosch 9 222 067 024
,, yanks can\'t,, but do get a similar replacement
--Accel 35361/7
( i suspect you guys can use this--Champion CM410 )
Quote from: bumpstartDLIDFIS- dual leading igniter, direct fire ignition system
DFI- direct fire ignition
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c275/pattmckay1/RE%20tech%20pics/wastedspark.jpg)
this is whats going on , and probably why you should be trying NOT to wastespark the trailing
( pretty obvious its position makes it fire the wrong chamber )
thankyous to Patt Mckay and circle jerk for the diagrams which do much to unravel the mysteries
there is several variations of the DFI method , all however aim to run the leading sparks as direct fire wastespark, much like the s4 rx7 onwards will
- the bosch method uses all new, readily available, very reliable components that are very cheap in comparison to mazda ones
( 3 BIM024 module igniters and 3 bosch HEC 715 coils )
- cheap does not at all mean worse, the bosch HEC 715, 716, 717 coils are very high powered when used in this application
( when the mazda parts can be unavailable , or old )
the bosh method is also a DLIDFIS, it genuinely is running independent igniters and coils for each leading spark
the system is not compromised by having to share electrical load and heat made to fire both major chambers
and all the waste-sparking as in the stock system, and indeed FC
-however the wasting spark load is negligible, and the sparks are still firing every bit as often
its just shared across more components working less hard
there is potential that a true DLIDFIS actually has more spark at high rpm to the SLIDFIS of the s4 !
so, simplified, here is the diagram to use the bosch bim modules to do the jobbie
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c275/pattmckay1/RE%20tech%20pics/boschigniterdiagramweb.jpg)
======================================
here\'s how you make a single leading igniter direct fire ignition system using stock FC dual coil or VN coil and J109/ J105 of the stock mazda dizzy
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c275/pattmckay1/RE%20tech%20pics/LDFIdiagram.jpg)
( NB : the single BIM024 does NOT like driving two coils, or twin coils without a ballast to limit current )
you can note that its possible now to use the superior carbon brush contact leading spark hole positions now vacant in dizzy for trailing duties
( in both types of DFI )
(http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/6545/pic0427322fy8.jpg)
http://www.youtube.com/v/4WGGB6Jlfko
the miracle of the 3 coil DFI dizzy
this pictured is the DLIDFIS full bosch HEI conversion
all hidden in a black box with relays and huge heat sink
(http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/8372/pic0424317qg7.jpg)
(http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/5140/pic0423316ju0.jpg)
as compact as it can go, 3 BIMS, all mounted on gel and heat-sink surface
2 for leading, one for trailing
2 relays and 2 fuses , one for being bloody sure all the coils and BIMS are getting clean power
( along the correctly sized supply wires )
and also the other is F for fuel pump, but could be F for fans
all weather proofed and hidden , with a neat plug for the various tie ins
- getting clever, a step up transformer can come in and boost things to 17 to 24 V for the coils
( haven\'t done that yet, but looks like very easy step )
- i find i have plenty of spark in very arduous conditions that made previous stock system not cope
- i have done this for a few bridges ( along with several extend ports )
and everybody has commented on the improvement all around
( idle quality, smoothness, response and rev-ability up top )
the bridge owners report the biggest gains
my tip to one and all, particularly if confronted with s1 dizzy
ALWAYS check connection trigger polarity with a timing light
( simply redo the timing to be sure any inadvertent change in falling to rising edge signal has altered timing )
simply swap wires 6 ( sometimes 3 ) and 7 to re- reverse the signal
specifically check for a crossfire inducing the trailing to spark with the leading
( the dizzy button will only line it to the right chamber fortunately )
if you cant set the trailing timing
- and it appears to shift with the leading , its cross-firing
- the fix is usually swapping ( on s1 dizzy at least ) the trailing igniters 6 ( 3 ) and 7 wire
( but be aware the strong spark is prone to making inductive timing lights also pick up false signals, spread your leads , and get good ones )
get on it, - its a winner
compare the price and reliability of the full bosch DLIDFIS to that of sourcing new or second hand mazda J109 and mazda coils
- i know which one works best ( all the time ) , uses new stuff, and works out cheapest
- bosch
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/TulsaTurbo/DLIDFIS/empty_igniter2.jpg)
PS
do this neat trick to use the dead J109 as a bridge connection to make any remote BIM modules connect easily
Top marks mate, this should be a sticky of some sort,excellent info.
I have a spare Distributor if its this at fault.