Mazda Rotary Club

Hi all

Im new to this Forum and am kind of new to Rotarys (i lent my mate some cash to buy an FD a few years back and i drove it a few times! lol) but am hoping to view a low milage FC Cab this week!

Ive been reading the forums on here all day and Im getting to grips with what i need to do when i go and look at it!

The main thing seems to be the compression test but as the car is very low milage (33k) im hoping it will be spot on!

The only issue with the car seems to be the roof where the covering has cracked slighty due to age! The current owner says he can organise a new roof from the states for about $400?? How hard are they to fit if I do this at a later date?? Apparently its not that bad anyway Im just thinking worst case!!

Anything else i should look for on these Cabs when i go??

Cheers, Scott

Check for:
 
Rust underneath - although the cabs have a much thicker floor pan, they are still prone to the usual rust infestations - sills, on the front and back of the wheel arches and so on.
 
Check for dampness around the passenger footwell - could be an indication of a leaky roof - and they all do leak in the long run.
 
You mention the roof had a split it in - I am guessing it\'s gone where it joins the pocket just behind the doors - they all go in that place - if you replace the hood - consider going for a fabric rather than vinyl one, as the design is flawed and weak and the vinyl ones split open. $400 from the US isn\'t a bad price - would cost about £300 to get fitted - and it\'s worth having it done professionally - it will need stretching over the frame - looks easy enough to do on paper - but I\'ve taken an old roof off a cab - and the cutting in of the rear window and stretching over the frame need to be done properley or it will look gash.
 
Also, take the spare wheel cover off (behind the seats) and have a look/feel about behind - any sign of a lot of damp and it could spell problems - should be dry as a bone in there.
 
Oops - where\'s my manners !
 
Welcome to the forum !

Spot on Cheers for that advice!!

Ill let you know how I get on!!

well theres a buyers guid on rx7club.com which i would read, don\'t think its aimed at cabs though.

I\'d be slightly suspicious of the 33k though. It must have been stored which could be bad news for the engine if stored incorrectly, so i think a compression test is a good idea.

As far as cab only stuff goes....i know nothing about them, im sure there will be someone to come and give you advice soon


oh, and welcome to the club :D

Cheers!!

Basicly the car has been the current owners sunny day car and is stored in a garage and comes out to play on nice days!! The car has been used and not stored for very long periods!!

Other than the compression test, is there anything else that i can look for engine wise??

You can check for oil leaks - check where the sections of the engine join - if you see evidence of oil leaks it could mean oil seals going - there is a form of leak called dowel leak - it\'s not immediately terminal - but is a sign of an engine getting long in the tooth.
 
Also, check for water weeping from the bottom of the water pump - that\'s on the shaft that drives the fan.  There is a small weep hole underneath that pulley - if it\'s leaking then the water pump seal has gone - relatively easy fix but it needs sorting.
 
Check the smoke on startup - a little blue / white when first starting is ok, but it should clear pretty quickly.  If it remains blue then the engine is burning a lot of oil or the turbo seal has gone.  If the smoke is white and sweat smelling - then it\'s cooolant - means a water seal has probably gone.
 
Ideally see the car when the engine is cold, and let it warm up for about 5 minutes - engine should rev up when first started, settling down to around 2000 and dropping slowly and evenly to a stable idle of around 750-900.  If the idle is erratic it could mean air leaks or badly adjust tps - nothing that\'s a show stopper but it will need sorting if you want reasonable fuel economy.
 
If the car is hard to start when cold it could mean problems.   Also once it\'s warmed up - shut the car down and restart it - should fire up again without issue.  If it\'s hard to start cold or hot it could mean low compression.

welcome i got an fc cab recently 32000 miles after having an FD for a few years,love it.as dave ( prof says to check) then enjoy

Im gonna print this page out!! lol

Cheers guys!! and cheers for the warm welcome!!

Cant help with your questions but would be good to have another rx7 owner in the south west good luck with the purchase
 
Lee

Well If i get it we will have to meet up! Your not far away.

If it\'s the black one with the 3 spoke wheels, check it over very carefully. 33,000 miles do\'s not ring true and claiming 230 bhp would mean it had had an engine rebuild as they only came with 200bhp.Also 33,000 miles of London use would not be good and the the huge single exhaust may mean it has been driven hard and is is not right. link below to the car i mean, what to you guy\'s think?
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C55838/#
Also check for crash damage, if i where nearer i would come with you, but there maybe someone else up for it, for a small bribe!:Ladys-man
Grant

Yea thats the one!! Ive already spoken to the owner!

If there is anyone in the area this week (probably thurs) that can come along and help me go over it that would be great :Thumbs-up

Few beers in it for them if they can help :cheers



Surely at 33k it wouldnt of had a rebuild yet unless someone has done something daft with it?? Ive seen several of these around that milage too!

The current owner sounds like he has looked after it but I dunno about previous owners??

a full exhaust and filter can add 30bhp if mapped for it. Racing beat claim 60-70 with their exhaust. Though the owner is most likely just putting out a ball park figure.

For the not being driven properly, as long as its warmed up before driven hard (can be driven straight away just not on boost and high revs) and cooled down (left to idle before switching off after using boost) it doesn\'t really matter how its driven, too a point that is. Personally i wouldn\'t ask about it, i\'d see what the owner does with it.

oh also to add to profs statement about the white smoke, this can take a while to stop, If i just warm either of my two up they will smoke, it usually takes another few minutes to completely stop :D

anyway, good luck, you seem to be going the right way about it :D

Hi Grant
hows the latest project going ?
hope some sun soon so can drop roof down she hasnt been out much.

Quote from: g.miller;589721If it\'s the black one with the 3 spoke wheels, check it over very carefully. 33,000 miles do\'s not ring true and claiming 230 bhp would mean it had had an engine rebuild as they only came with 200bhp.Also 33,000 miles of London use would not be good and the the huge single exhaust may mean it has been driven hard and is is not right. link below to the car i mean, what to you guy\'s think?
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C55838/#
Also check for crash damage, if i where nearer i would come with you, but there maybe someone else up for it, for a small bribe!:Ladys-man
Grant

When Buying a new car I always look into it first. I never buy "ordinary" cars so I always go to a club or forum to find out what Im actually going to be looking at!!

Ive always fancied an FC as I would love to cover all engine types and a Rotary is definately on that list of things to own!

A V8 is the other thing Ide like eventually and I nearly bought an FC last week off a mate with a V8 fitted! That fell through due to him not being able to give me the history of the engine and the conversion in full!

At that point I had my heart set on an FC but never really thought about the Cabs! I saw a few and just got thinking of how different that would be!

So here I am lol

Does that mean after the cab you\'l be going for a 3 rotor? then a 4 rotor :D

Quote from: dthebuk;589729Does that mean after the cab you\'l be going for a 3 rotor? then a 4 rotor :D

MMMMMMMM 4 rotor FC Cab!!! lol

Ide love a 20b on throttle bodies :god I just LOVE that sound!!!

Quote from: peterwolds;589727Hi Grant
hows the latest project going ?
hope some sun soon so can drop roof down she hasnt been out much.

Hi Pete.
very slow, the guy doing the rebuild was on a go slow just before Christmas and had what turned out to be  angina and has only just started up on it again, but he is doing a fantastic job, i will just have to be patient.

I bought another plastic car at the end of Oct. as i was lost with no toys and an empty garage and have spent alot of time underneath treating the only steel bit\'s [ chassis] this winter. Its a 99 TVR chim. with 18,000 miles, yours is much better underneath!:Giggle

Grant

HOW MUCH ............ crickey !!

welcome to the mad house

if its a UK car - then just get underneath and bang the hell out of the sills etc.. they are prone to rusting here

if you can look under the carpet - have a look where the passengers feet go - there is a metal plate here covering the ecu - if this is rusty - then it proves that its had water in there ( and yes - mine is a cab and leaks into the passenger foot well :( )

for a roof - look for a guy on here called PDTAYLOR , he has a brand new roof for sale and is very knowledgable about the cabs ( and so is prof :D )

keep checking for rust ... its an RX7 killer

if its a jap car - then its more likely to not have this probs

then make sure that everything else is OK

ABS , Elecs , Wipers work on all speeds ( usually not to be honest )

if its a manual - sit at 30 in 5th and floor it -  to check for the clutch slipping

drive at about 20 in second and floor it - it should pull really smooth to 50+ , the back end should squat with the boost kicking in and pull in a straight line

check the tyres etc... ( check for wear on inner edges - ££££ to replace )

as someone said ( think it was prof ) - take it for a spin - get it up to temp and turn it off and start it again - do this twice to make sure - if it starts fine - its a good sign

when you turn up to look at the car - as for it not to be started and stone cold ( stick hand on engine to prove this ) - it should start no probs from cold

thats all i can think of at the mo :D

Stu

Thanks again People!!

Very nice looking car but £1000 over priced, surely?

Welcome to the club matey :)

Well ive seen them from £1000 to £5000 so there is quite a range lol

Ill see what happens!

Don\'t worry about the the ABS as UK cab\'s. did not have it, just the coupe.
price wise it looks about right to me if it\'s so low milage. Don\'t worry about Stu. he thinks anything over a pound is expensive:Giggle

:Giggle cheers guys!!

i didnt realise that uk cabs didnt come with ABS - how strange - as the UK Coupe does ??

Quote from: grinder;589782i didnt realise that uk cabs didnt come with ABS - how strange - as the UK Coupe does ??

Good excuse to learn cadence braking :yes

i prefer the stand on brakes and close your eyes theory :D

My cab is up for grabs if you are interested,loads of history from this forum and brand new roof,respray etc etc. Just passed its MOT as well today.
If you need a new roof then I have one of those if you buy the black one.
Just email me at the address below if you want details.
Apart from what everyone else has mentioned I know cabs extremely well having had half a dozen of the things, think the biggest thing is to verify that mileage and it should have full service history with that. The roof is another big one and although you can get one from USA for $400 it will cost you again to get it fitted, its not quite a simple fit plus you will have to cut the rear window in as well, It still cost me in the region of £600 to buy the material and have someone fit it all,including the rear window.
If this is a genuine car the leather seats should be prestine for this mileage and not cracked or looking worn.

Email Sent!! :Thumbs-up

Well i viewed it and...................................................











............................I didnt get it!! :2Rolleyes



It had some of the strengthening randomly cut from the boot floor for no reason, it looked like it had some paintwork done and it had no keys or ignition barrel and started with a switch on the dash?!?!?!?!

Considering it was a 33k mile car it didnt look like it or something had happened to it in the past? Stolen recovered maybe..... but why not just fit a new ignition barrel??

Anyway it didnt seem right so i walked!!

Oh well

Think you did the right thing there, let me know if you are still interested in mine as i will be getting a few things done to it and then i will advertise it. If you need more pics then let me know.

Quote from: pdtaylor18;590917Think you did the right thing there, let me know if you are still interested in mine as i will be getting a few things done to it and then i will advertise it. If you need more pics then let me know.

Yea i feel like i did!!

Shame really as the engine and the rest of the car seemed ok! Well "seemed" anyway!?!?
I didnt even bother looking through the history and doing the compression check!
Well at least i can say Ive driven one and i liked it LOL

To be really honest i think you will be wanting more for your car than ill be paying as its so nice! Thanks anyway! :mmmm

This one looks interesting........... any thoughts??

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56049

Ive spoken to the owner and i should be viewing it this week!!

Could be a good bet - the fluids will all need to be changed etc, budget for a new set of tyres as well.  Other than that it should be a good \'un :)

If it\'s as good in the flesh as it is in the photos, then you\'ve got excellent body work and leather there - Pete has a roof - this is well worth repairing - otherwise water will get in where it shouldn\'t, and your investment waisted.
 
All depends on the engine - but sounds promising.

Cool!!

Well i had a nice long chat with the owner and hes been very honest as far as I can tell!! Even called me back so i could hear the car running over the phone!!

Ill keep you posted when Ive seen the car :yes

Before you view anything else.  look at pdtaylors car,  now that is a very nce car, dont think anything u view will be to that standard.

Mick

Quote from: Mobilemick;591442Before you view anything else.  look at pdtaylors car,  now that is a very nce car, dont think anything u view will be to that standard.

Mick

But hes gonna want lots more than £2000 for it isnt he!! :yes

Ive got a thing for these cars in black too!! :rolleyes:

Bugger, Ive spoken to the owner again and he has told me that the car has started to smoke a little!! :2Confused

The car was fine this morning when i first spoke to him and he had it running no problems, Then he started it up this afternoon and on idle its fine but when you rev it on boost when its warm it puffs out a bit of bluey/black smoke out the back!! Im not sure how much as its just what he told me?!?!

Hes currently looking into the problem!

He has mentioned that it has a chip fitted that raises the fueling to suit slightly higher boost and the exhaust and filter, however the boost is turned right down at the moment on the HKS boost controller so could it possably be over-fueling caused by the chip??

If not it could be the turbo seals or something more terminal? :(

Help!!!! :2Confused:2Confused:2Confused:2Confused:2Confused:2Confused

Ive been reading a few threads on here and it seems that if a car is running on a base map with an uprated chip it overfuels and comes out the back as black/blue smoke??

Is there any way to tell if its this or something more scary????

He does have the standard chip to which can just plug into the ECU carrier to replace the uprated one! Maybe worth swapping this over to see if it stops over fueling???

Please help as im supposed to be viewing this car today and its a long trip lol

it could just be burning the oil out the turbo - you might need to take it for a reasonable long drive - but that might not be possible :(

and i suppose it depends on how much smoke there is

I guess if the turbo hasnt been used lots (i.e. no boost on idle) then the oil could seep into it! Then when he hit boost it blew it out the back!?!?!?!

Im guessing this should go away after a while??

Is the smoke when you are on boost and revving it or when you let off ?

When reving I believe!!!

Im still looking at this car today so ill be able to tell u more later!!

P.s. is there any chance one of u clever guys can PM me your moblie number should i need any advice in the field?? Wouls be a great help to speak to someone in the know when with the car.

Black smoke - particularly on revving is normally a rich condition - and indicates unburnt fuel.  If the engine rev\'s smoothly and doesn\'t sound like it\'s got a misfire - then it could just be running very rich.
 
The blue smoke is oil of course - but rotaries do burn oil.  It may be worth getting one of the lower spark plugs out and just having a look at it - if it looks wet or sooted up then it\'s been flooded or has an injector leak.  If it\'s oily then far too much oil is in the chambers - that could be coming from a problem with oil injectors / oil metering pump or from the crank case emssions getting fed back into either the intake or the throttle body.  Without taking all that lot off and having a look around for oil contamination it\'s going to be difficult to see.
 
Any car sat for long periods is going to smoke for a good 5 minutes or more.  After my alternator failed on Saturday, my car smoked badly for the first 5 mins just because of the oil injected without proper combustion taking place - as Grinder said - you may just need to give this car a long run with some good revving to \'clear it out\' so to speak.
 
As for PM\'s - you\'re signed up as a guest so I can\'t PM you - but if you provide your email addy I can provide said detais - don\'t really want to post it up on the open forum ;)

Cheers ill look into this

my email addy = crxboy150@hotmail.com

And what is yor real name too haha :Giggle

Email sent - real name Dave. :cool

this may be completely wrong BUT, i was under the impression that these boost chips (when mapped for an exhaust an air filter too) will run the car slightly richer to deal with the exhaust/air filter, im assuming the engine is using more air. Also when the car is running higher boost levels the map compensates by adding more fuel for the given level of boost. So Surely if the car is set up right  it shouldn\'t be running rich, but it should be using more fuel. That makes sense right? So if thats right the problem isn\'t down to the car running rich. point proved :D

When you hit the throttle hard, the ECU will deliberately overfuel to allow a rapid throttle response, but the fuel is pulled pretty quickly - the result when you kick down is that you will get a puff of black smoke as there is a momentary rich condition.
 
Uncle Silvia mentioned that the owner had said the smoke was blue/black - I was merely suggesting that the black smoke on pressing the throttle may simply have been down to this temporary rich condition - and therefore perhaps nothing to worry about.

Well I looked at the car today and Ive spoken to Prof on the phone (thanks mate!!!).

The car itself is very tidy but the only things I can see wrong with it are the roof and this smoking problem!

Ive gone through several checks with Profs advice and the engine itself seems fine.
It idles correctly,
Starts spot on hot and cold,
The compression test showed over 100psi in both chambers and all three blips as far as i could tell were about equal,
The bottom plugs were dry and not oily at all,
There was no oil in the intake/return pipes!

With this, at worst, im guessing it could be a seal in the turbo blowing oil into the exhaust and at best it could just be a bit of oil in the turbo/exhaust that has leaked through over the period its been stood up! It doesnt look like the oil leak is from an engine seal!

Ive looked through the reciepts and 29K ago the engine had a complete overhall or replacement at a Mazda dealer with listings for all the seals and gaskets plus a "special costing" of £1600 which could be a replacement engine barrel! Total cost over £2000!

I very much doubt that with this and the comprehensive service history that the engine itself has any issues??

Also the car is currently running the lowest boost setting as he fitted the boost controller and just set it to low to get the car running. As he hasnt used the car since fitting it its never been set up on a higher boost setting , but still has the uprated chip fitted, this MAY cause it to overfuel due to the boost being low and the fueling being high??

Does anyone have any thoughts?

I think i may be going back up in the next week if all is well! :yes

sounds OK to be honest - if the engine has only done 29K - should be good for another 30K then - which for me is about 30 yrs !! LOL :D

Quote from: uncle silvia;591696Well I looked at the car today and Ive spoken to Prof on the phone (thanks mate!!!).
 
The car itself is very tidy but the only things I can see wrong with it are the roof and this smoking problem!
 
Ive gone through several checks with Profs advice and the engine itself seems fine.
It idles correctly,
Starts spot on hot and cold,
The compression test showed over 100psi in both chambers and all three blips as far as i could tell were about equal,
The bottom plugs were dry and not oily at all,
There was no oil in the intake/return pipes!
 
With this, at worst, im guessing it could be a seal in the turbo blowing oil into the exhaust and at best it could just be a bit of oil in the turbo/exhaust that has leaked through over the period its been stood up! It doesnt look like the oil leak is from an engine seal!
 
Ive looked through the reciepts and 29K ago the engine had a complete overhall or replacement at a Mazda dealer with listings for all the seals and gaskets plus a "special costing" of £1600 which could be a replacement engine barrel! Total cost over £2000!
 
I very much doubt that with this and the comprehensive service history that the engine itself has any issues??
 
Also the car is currently running the lowest boost setting as he fitted the boost controller and just set it to low to get the car running. As he hasnt used the car since fitting it its never been set up on a higher boost setting , but still has the uprated chip fitted, this MAY cause it to overfuel due to the boost being low and the fueling being high??
 
Does anyone have any thoughts?
 
I think i may be going back up in the next week if all is well! :yes

The chip won\'t make it run rich if your boost setting is low - basically the fuel mapping the chip provides is only going to get used if the boost actually hits these higher figures.  The mapping in the chip is most likely going to have similar settings to a stock ECU at lower boost pressures.
 
Things that might make it run rich:
 
Higher fuel pressure - the pressure regulator should see to the idle pressure - but some aftermarket pumps will flow much better than the stock pump, so it\'s possible fuel pressure has increased if the regulator is weak, and consequently the injectors see and inject more fuel - however the idle would be off, and the car would pop and bang a lot.
 
Poor Air Filter or Restriction in air inlet - again richer mix could result from reduced air flow - but as above - the idle would be lumpy and you\'d be banging flames out the back.  As he\'s got a new panel filter in there - this isn\'t likely.
 
Air leak between Airflow Meter and Manifold - if air is escaping or entering then this could affect rich / lean - but it would be leaner on lower boost and run richer as boost increases - specifically if the leak is after the turbo for this latter condition.  Careful spraying of butane / propane gas around the hose joints - or if you\'re careful a quick blast with carb cleaner - engine note will change if there is a leak.

Right good news!

Ive just had a message from the owner and he has swapped the uprated chip back to the standard chip and its stopped smoking! :yes

He contacted the guy that sold him the chip and he was told that it was made from a base map from a race car setup in Japan, therefore adding more fuel to cope with higher boost and uping the oil injector rate to protect the rotors at hi boost! Obviously on a low boost setting in a road car there is too much oil being pumped in so it just burns off and comes out the back!!

Problem solved!

Ive just got to look into a few other bits and I may be getting this!

Ill keep you posted :mmmm

Anymore thought on the above???

i think what you need to do with this car is actually prove whats on it :(

if all the injectors are stock and the exhaust etc.. - just stick a stock ECU back on it

just to add - 100psi on all the faces - crickey thats impressive - im sure you only get about 108 psi ( ish ) with a new engine ( dont quote me on that though :D )

Quote from: grinder;592512i think what you need to do with this car is actually prove whats on it :(

if all the injectors are stock and the exhaust etc.. - just stick a stock ECU back on it

just to add - 100psi on all the faces - crickey thats impressive - im sure you only get about 108 psi ( ish ) with a new engine ( dont quote me on that though :D )

The car has a full twin exit stainless exhaust from the turbo back with no Cat and a K&N panel filter in the the standard air box! It also has a HKS Boost controller set to lowest level! Other than that everything else is stock now the ECU chip had been changed back to O/E

ahhhhh - the only prob you should have no is that you will hit boost but at 8psi - this stops everything going bang - as the exhaust will allow the turbo to spool better

so now you either need a FCD to stop this - or an ecu that isnt tuned TOO much

there is a chap on ebay who sells the chips for about £15 - by right this should be OK for you - as its tuned for stock turbo , fueling , injectors etc..

and he supplies it on a chip - so you should beable to get the tuned ECU - open it - remove the chip and stick this on in :D - easy eh !! LOL

Im guessing you mean "boost cut at 8psi" lol

Do u have a link for the guy on the bay as i want to get the right chip for the car and do it properly?

The ECU has already been fitted with a chip cradle so swapping the chip should be well easy!

I think Ive found it??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mazda-RX-7-FC3S-1989-91-Turbo-Stage-1-Performance-Chip_W0QQitemZ280318914876QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item280318914876&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mazda-RX-7-FC3S-1989-91-Turbo-Stage-1-Performance-Chip_W0QQitemZ280318914876QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item280318914876&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)


Is this the one you mean??

I know this chap and his chips do work, got one spare at the moment, got it while it was cheaper. he basically copied the data from a chipped one and simply copied them himself.
Same chap Stu that sold you the brake disks.
Think I have an HKS FCD as well, will not be needing that now i will be going E-manage.

Ah cool! Just thought ide check as im always a bit dubious of ebay chips!

If people on here say they are ok then that is fine :Thumbs-up

Would a FCD or the chip be better? Im thinking the chip as it changes more of the settings to suit the mods :D

errr not sure whats best to be honest

pete - how much for the FCD - i will need one when i eventually get the car fully decatted

i have a tuned ECU - but i dont want to fit it yet ( need to do a fuel pump swap aswell as decatting it )

and the guy who does the chips and i got the discs off - seems a really nice bloke to be honest :D

Yea i was gonna uprate the fuel pump to just to be safe!

Is it hard to do on FC Cabs??  My old S14 was easy!!

cabs are easy to upgrade, lift rear carpet,undo the fuel hoses,undo the top cover and pull the whole fuel sender out. All you do then is simply replace. (that the haynes manual way !!) to be honest it does not get any simpler.
As for the chip or FCD then the chip will in my opinion be better,some tuned chips already allow for fuel cut and having this chip and an FCD does not always suit the engine as I found out and had all sorts of minor engine problems,all down to my FCD. Once removed then all was well.
An FCD however should be used with a standard ECU or an chipped ECU that has not raised the value for fuel cut,this more so important once you have gone decat,bigger exhaust and free flow intake. Boost controlling is a must at this point.
Price for the FCD I am not sure as the prices on Ebay for these has shot up.

I think ill be getting the chip then..................

When it says "removes Rev Limiter" does that mean it doesnt have one at redline?? Danger of over rev??

TBH - not much point in taking a stock engine/turbo above 6500rpm anyway - that\'s where you will find max power :)

I think it might refer to the 112 MPH limiter that it gets rid off,pretty sure thats what its suppose to mean.

Quote from: uncle silvia;592826When it says "removes Rev Limiter" does that mean it doesnt have one at redline?? Danger of over rev??

Technically yes - although the buzzer still goes off just over 7000 RPM - so you know when you\'ve done it.
 
Also, unless you select a really low gear by accident at high rpm\'s then it\'s unlikely to be a problem. I have a chipped ECU with the removed rev limit and it will happily go past 7000 - with the rev limiter on, the car will get to around 7000 and then it will soft cut - meaning you can\'t rev past that point.

This Chip you speak of is the very chip that the owner has just removed and replaced with the factory one so he tells me???

Now Im confused??

Help!!!

simple then, just go to a standard ECU and be done with it until you can get something else. Theres plenty of chipped ECU\'s on Ebay and I am sure one or two on here if you do a wanted section for it.

just becareful with a stock ECU - as you will DEFO hit boost cut - the stock ecu wont beable to handle the boost with the free flowing exhaust

to be honest - it sounds like the chip is prob working fine - the car just needs a bloody good run

Well Ive been up again and its looking better as the smoking seems to have stopped with both chips when warm!! Its also passed its MOT spot on!

However the timing was soo far out it was pinking like a bugger and it wasnt safe to drive 250miles home without risking the engine and the timing marks had rubbed off the pully??!!

Looks like im heading back up again soon with a trailer soon to pick it up and Ill get it to a garage to get it set up!!

3rd time lucky LOL :Giggle

Thanks to Prof for giving me advice on the phone again :god

No worries :)
 
I\'m sure the fuelling is going to be something that can be sorted easy enough, but would be a crying shame to pop the motor as the compression readings are so good on it.
 
I think you need to get the fuelling system checked over - make sure that all the components that make up the fuel supply (fuel pump resistor relay, fuel pump, wiring to pump, fuel filters (in tank and high pressure filter), fuel lines, fuel rails, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, vac hoses to fuel regulator, pulsation dampener (these have been known to leak).
 
Also, check AFM and MAP sensors, as well as water temp sensor, as these all contribute to fuel calculations.

Yea that what i thought!! I just didnt want to risk it!!

it makes sense in the long run :D

If you need a box full of spares to diagnose your problem then please give me a shout, I am sure I can get every single spare you need down to you for about £5, simply return when you are done. The only thing I dont have a spare for is an ECU,well I do but would much rather hang onto it.
I can send:
Leads, AFM, pump resistors,plugs, UIM(with TPS),well you name anything for engine related stuff and its in my garage.
As a side note as ECU\'s have been in and out of this car,have you checked that the earth is on properly? there is an earth lead that attaches from the main loom to one of the studs holding the ECU down,make sure thats on its easy to miss.

Ah ok ill check

Cheers :)