Well seeing it was a nice day - i started to swap the discs over on the car for some drilled and vented ones
took some pics as i went along aswell
i havent finished getting one disc on yet - as i need some stufff - but here are the pics :D
So Step 1 :
Jack the car up and get the wheel off
lol so is that as far as you got?
< bloody hell mate - i was in the midst of posting when you added this .. i will remove this post later though - it spoils my thread !! LOL ... Grinder >
Step 2 :
Figure out how the hell the pads are held in
From looking at it - they are on pins with spring clips
so first thing first - loosen the clips off
Step 3
Now that the clips are loose - remove the pins holding the clips and pads in
Step 4
make a note where things go in your head ( or on your camera !! )
the clips that are looped over go at the bottom ( there is a complete circle on the clip that the pin passes thru )
Step 5
Now to get the pads out
couldnt work it out so start with - but i ended up pushing one pads out from the back and then got a small G-Clamp to push the other pistons back
any ways - the pads are out :D
Step 6
Right then - now to get the caliper off
there are only 2 big bolts holding it all on - one at the top and one at the bottom - this is a pic of the top one
Step 7
crickey - they took some getting off :(
got a 17mm socket on them and a 18 inch breaker bar - and used a mallet to loosen them off
took both bolts out and secured the caliper to the spring ( so that its not hanging on the brake hose )
you can see in the pics - the location of the 2 bolts that needed to come off
Step 8
Right then - off with the disc
this is where the fun started - couldnt get the 2 screws out
so tried with an impact driver .....
Step 9
seeing that i snapped the bit - it was onto the phone to Brett - he said that use a centre punch to loosen the screws and then simply remove them
this failed - and the screws just ended up a right mess
things is - they are in SOOOOOOOOOO tight - but are really soft ???
Step 10
right then - one screwed up screw
quick chat to the neighbour and it was a case of drilling them out - he came with some drill bits and some drills
so we just drilled them out :D
Brett also warned me - that once the screws are out - thats when the fun starts
cast iron disc + ally hub = hrs of fun
3 light taps with a mallet and the discs was off - im glad it was that easy :D :D
found what was left of the 2 screws in the hub - and they came out by hand - the heat of drilling them must have loosened them up ???
anyways disc is off
this is where i stopped as
a: need some copper grease
b: need some bolts to replace the drilled one
my neighbour gave me 2 allen key head bolts - so im gonna buy 10 of them for the rest of the discs - i dont think you need them to be honest - but mazda put them on for a reason so i will replace them
once i have the parts - i will put the new disc on and rebuilding should be the reverse
i need to do the back aswell - so i will take some pics of that when i do it :D
here is the car now with no disc on it ( i have put a bag over it at the mo - just to keep it dry )
Stu - feel free to remove this post to keep your thread clean.
You don\'t really need the screw/bolts that hold the disc in place - they are there to locate the disc on the hub so it makes putting the wheel back on easier, and allows you to check pad to disc spacing and so on without the wheel being on. I just use 2 of the wheel nuts to check the brake alignment and pad to disc, then take them off carefully and put the wheel back on.
If you use ceramic spray coating or copper grease on the surface that mates with the inside edge of the wheel, and also on the hub and inside of the disc rotor, you\'ll find they will stay in place ok.
to be honest mate - i thought that you didnt need them
i have some nice allen key heads ones to use ( only 2 of need some more though )
i will prob use them anyways as fingers croseed i wont be taking the discs back off EVER :D
and i dont understand why you do need them - surely its held in place by the caliper ( aswell as the wheel ?? )
well the better half has pulled a blinder :D
She has taken my front wheel to get the tyre reseated
She has gone and bought me 10 screws to replace the ones that will be getting drilled out
She is going getting me some copper grease to apply to every bolt that goes back in
so looks like i will beable to start the rebuild pretty soon :D Wooooohoooo :D
Dont get a job at Kwik Fit Stu !!!
Well done though and its not a hard job once you look at what needs to be done. Coating the threads with anti-sieze is always a good idea and dont forget to dollop a good quantity of the copper ease into the sliding rail bit as well, but b4 you do take the rubber boot off and clean it thoughourly.you can also apply a very light smear on the hub/disk interface as it will stop this disimilar metal process that happens and bonds metals together. You are supposed to use Lock thread on the bolts but as long as they are tight then not really needed. It maybe why they were a pig to get off if they were original disks, manufacturers always use the stuff.
Got any new pads? Always use new pads with new disks unless you are absolutely dead sure your old pads are nice and straight and not worn at a silly angle.
i do have some new pads for the front - but i have green stuff in at the mo and they dont look TOO bad - need to have a nosey at them
back pads have done about 50 miles tops - so will reuse them
humm didnt think about pads to be honest - need to look at the fronts - as i have said - i have some mintex ( i think ) pads somewhere
right then - got the week off work - so thought i would crack on
first thing was first , unbox the discs - they have some surface rust - but a few miles should sort that out
put the front disc on - superb fit
so off it came again - gave the inner face a smear of copper grease and shoved it on
the bolts i bought fit superb and work a treat :D
bolted every thing back on - the pads got a smear of copper grease at the back - so shouldnt squeel , the pins got some aswell and so did the wheel bolts :D
Good work :wave
jacked the car down and started on the other side - not being funny - but the other side was SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO easy
i reckon 30 mins tops from jacking it up - to jacking it back down and tighening the wheel bolts
the 2 silly screws came out no probs - the caliper came off no probs .. it was wonderful
so then onto the rears
so - first thing first here - crack the wheel nuts - cant do that with it in the air :D - and then jack it up ( i use the diff for this - see pic )
got the wheel off , the 2 screws holding the disc... :(... rounded the first one - so thought stuff it - drill em out :D - battery drill was flat so thats now on charge and will continue this tomorrow ( with more pics )
no idea how to get the back caliper off to be honest - but im sure its only 3 nuts - one to pivot the top to get the pads out - then 2 for the caliper ??
good work stu, you will get quicker with practice :) I changed a friends pads, discs and fluid on his FD last week in under 2 hours on my drive, it was raining and hail stoning so it made me work quicker!
its surprising how easy it is to do the other side after doing the first one first ( if that makes sense )
i have never changed pads and discs - so it was a bit of a learning curve as to what should come off and what shouldnt - but once i did the passenger side - i knew exactly what i had to do for the drivers side
and i reckon that these discs will prob outlast the car ! LOL - if they last 10K miles that prob 15 yrs of motoring :D :D
dave has done a great write up about doing the rears ( and just in time for me to do mine if the weather holds out tomorrow ) http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55956
LMAO! Knowing you, a tank of fuel will out last the car! :rollin
thats not funny - but very nearly true mate
ok - whose idea was it to use cast discs and alloy hubs
been at it for about 6hrs and only managed to do the drivers rear - i reckon neigh on 4 hrs just to get the disc off - and the passenger side is looking the same
pics and write up to follow once i calm down :D
a tip (although maybe a bit late) get a small hammer and keep hitting the bell while spinning the disc, do this lots and lots of times, the vibration cracks the rust and definately works.
the bell ????
all i have been doing is using a mallet and hitting the rear of the disc , the turning it , hitting , turning , hitting , turning , swearing , hitting etc..
im not being heavy handed as i dont want to damage the bearings - so its taking a long time :(
the bell is the centre part of the disc where the studs poke out, hit the outer face and the lip with a small METAL hammer. A mallet is no good until you have fractured the corrosion joint
ahhhhhhhh - i will give it a try and see what happens
nothing will happen if they are in that state. i had to drill cracks accross the bell (a line of drill holes) so i could take the disc off in pieces. it took forever
i have a spare front hub in very good condition if you want to just undo the big nut in the middle. it could save you alot of time.
haha just read the thread, you did the other front already DOH
If you can get around the back, you might be able to get a reverse threaded bolt into one of the 5 holes that isn\'t lined up with the 2 on the disc, and wind it in to help lift the disc away at the edge
I must admit, mine came off relatively easily with a big wallop from a 2lb rubber mallet ;)
yeah front are done - seemed dead easy to be honest ( they might have been off before though )
the back look like the original factory fitted items - so well rusted on :(
Prof - i did try putting a bolt in the little hole in the rear disc - i assume thats for assisting "popping" them off - but that had no effect
next plan might be to try and get 2 bolts thru where the caliper was and try and force it off that way ( if i have anything long enough that will fit )
but i have 2 more days leave to get it sorted out - so another 6hrs tomorrow should see it done
everything is going back on laced with copper grease - i dont want this hassle again ( not that i want to remove the discs again!! LOL )
Stu
woohoooo its done :D
crickey - what a pain in the rear ( excuse the pun ) - i reckon it took me about 2 hrs today just to get a disc off
even with "gentle" tapping around the bell - but then all of a sudden 2 hits with the mallet and it came off .. go figure eh ??
anyways - i took some pics as i went along ....
so here is the first pic ( i think ) .. wheel off and the heads of the 2 silly screws drilled out as i couldnt loosen them
next thing is to get the pads out
there is a 12mm bolt at the bottom - you remove this and you can move the caliper out the way to get to the pads
ok - bolt is out - next wedge the caliper up ( i used a spanner for this )
and you can see the pads
what i then did was to slide the top of the caliper off the pin and tie it up out the way
from this point - you can remove the pads - make a note of how the spring clips fit
now that the clips and pads are out - time to remove the rest of the caliper - its held with 2 * 14mm bolts - one at the top and one at the bottom
and now the fun bit - spend 4 hrs trying to get the disc off :(
but once its off it looks like this
give everything a clean - and stick the new disc on
the bolts i bought wouldnt fit - they sat at .5mm proud and didnt want the wheel not to sit flat so didnt use them
lowered the car off the jack and tightened the wheel bolts and took it for a spin
and to be honest - no idea why - but the brakes are naff - you have to press it about 3 times to get it solid
so i assume that the pads and discs are just bedding themselves in at this point
when i got back - i looked at the discs and its nice and shiney in the middle but not the edges - i only did about 4 miles top - so i reckon they just need a lot more use ??
and thats how you change the front and rear discs
and i was feeling in such a good mood that i even changed the oil and filter :D
Probably a good idea to bleed the fluid - even though you didn\'t take the calipers off - as the fluid will be old and stale judging by the rust on those discs of yours.
The fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs water, and will get \'spongey\' as it absorbs more moisture over time. Open one bleed screw at a time - start with furthest away from the master cylinder (opposite sides for ABS fitted cars), so on your cab that\'s the passenger rear - and bleed out the brake fluid until it changes colour - keep topping up the resevoir as you go. The first one will take the longest as you empty the resevoir completely, each brake you bleed after that will take less time. You\'ll be amazed at the difference !! :driving
humm not a bad idea to be honest - and the reason the discs were sooo bad is that it hasnt been used in about ... at least 4-5 months :(
i take it that its a 2 man job aswell ( for brake pressing )
do you have to bleed ALL the fluid out or is it ok to mix ?
Quote from: grinder;590128right then - got the week off work - so thought i would crack on
first thing was first , unbox the discs - they have some surface rust - but a few miles should sort that out
put the front disc on - superb fit
so off it came again - gave the inner face a smear of copper grease and shoved it on
the bolts i bought fit superb and work a treat :D
can you remember what size the hex screws were?
thanks
Mark
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh - errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
M8 sounds about right - i know that they werent anything special
Quote from: grinder;590696humm not a bad idea to be honest - and the reason the discs were sooo bad is that it hasnt been used in about ... at least 4-5 months :(
i take it that its a 2 man job aswell ( for brake pressing )
do you have to bleed ALL the fluid out or is it ok to mix ?
It won\'t mix all that much - just bleed it till the fluid chanes colour at the calipers - it will all be refreshed then.
You can get a 1 man bleed kit - but they are a bit fiddly - best to get some help.