So thanks to bonus time, I\'m going to be able to buy the ECU for the 1st gen project. I\'ve always intended to go down the Microtech LT10s + Coils route because it\'s a known, and they are reasonably cheap.
If there is a valid alternative tho, then I\'m happy to hear about it. I know Apexi cover the 13btt, but don\'t think they do the 13bt. Also as Haltech have bought out a new range, so presumably the old ECU\'s are defunct.
If there isn\'t a reasonable alternative, any suggestion of a good & cheap place to buy them new or secondhand?
Cheers
OJ
Apexi do cover the 13BT - although it may be cheaper to get an 8 bit FD version and just get hold of the maps for FC, as they run at about double the price.
Haltech / Wolf 3D are good standalones that work well with the FC.
Then there are the RTEK chips - they are just coming out with series 5 support now (the later versions are actually a small piggy back board and allow various parameters to be tuned and have the serial port for that).
Then there\'s MAP and Emanage piggyback\'s (better suited to mild to medium modded cars).
And finally - for the full DIY experience - Megasquirt - which can be bought ready built - just need to wire your own loom :cool
Go Megasquirt!
I stuck one on the The Lady\'s turbo MX5. They\'re so easy to tune it\'s untrue. MASSIVE user base and support too (for the MS1 anyway).
Go Microtech I say, as you will have good starter maps and aftermarket support,and most rotary tuners worth any salt know how to tune them effectively, Tim from Rx Motors may have some laying around
With the microtech, one of the big selling points has been it\'s ability to use the stock sensors - given I\'m rewiring as I go, and stripping out any wiring I don\'t want, I\'m going to be replacing the sensor wires as well. From what I can see, this is Air Temp, Oxygen Sensor, Water Temp, TPS. As I\'m going from a bare block, which of these do I need to worry about replacing?
Also, the universal loom I have already has a feed for the fuel system. Given that the ECU does as well, which do you reckon I should have wired in? The loom one is simpler, but the ECU one may have some knock on effect if not wired in...
Also, does the oxygen sensor need to be plumbed in? If so, where would be best - in the downpipe, or further along the exhaust? The installation manual suggests not, but what happens if you don\'t put one in???
Thanks for the help in advance guys,
OJ
cant answer your sensor question or loom wiring one.
You dont need to plumb the narrowband 02 sensor, mine was disabled years ago on the APexi, and my Motec does not need it. Its only used for closed loop cruising methinks, but as you are getting it mapped in future I wouldnt bother fitting it.
What Blitzboy said - don\'t bother with the Stock O2 sensor - even the stock ecu will run without it - just a little rich, and with an aftermarket ecu it\'s no use anyway.
Water temp you will want to keep - as you can map cold start and also water temps are a good thing to monitor for engine running too rich or lean (water temps go up when it\'s rich, EGT\'s come down and vice versa). You probably want TPS - at least the wideband one for throttle input, and intake air temp on the throttle inlet tube. If you\'re using an AirflowMeter then you need the other air sensor wiring - but I suspect you\'ll use a MAP sensor - so AFM/Intake Air temp are not needed - just the engine one.
Quote from: BlitzBoy;586691cant answer your sensor question or loom wiring one.
You dont need to plumb the narrowband 02 sensor, mine was disabled years ago on the APexi, and my Motec does not need it. Its only used for closed loop cruising methinks, but as you are getting it mapped in future I wouldnt bother fitting it.
blitzboy which motec you running im running the motec m2r and i no its a 32bit system just would like to know which ht leads you use as ive been looking for some magnecors and it says only use 8bit mags with the 1992-1995s and use 16bit magnecors with the 1996+ just would like to no if the 16bit version is ok to get in a 8.5mm lead set
get the haltech,, new or even a superceded E8,, it runs RINGS around any micro
-- and i fit and tune them both ,,
and have had rotor EFI experiance back to the original d4s in 1991 ,, and the haltech f3
this will bring full sequential operation of injectors and ignition
( the mega doesnt get close ! )
it will also bring set point closed loop ( lambda ) ability
and selectable IGNITION cuts
and operate the EOMP
and easily takes free firmware updates ( without spending on dongles ETC )
and genuine lap top, multiprogram tunability
( we can send you instant FREE programs from aus !! )
and much higher look up table definition
and software and hardware noise suppression
and awesome tunability/ representaion of the HALWIN software
-as well as all those other sweet features you pay extra for in a lebotech
--- and that just the BASIC comparison,,
without even comparing the level of support ,,
or the quality and reliabilty of the components
-- microtech can be VERY lack lustre with wanting to help you
( smoke that lebotech )
haltech can also use the stock sensors ( calibrate to anything )
though the full scale haltech/bosch TPS and their 3 bar map sensor is advised
-- it even comes plug and play for s4 and s5 onwards
really,, no comparison,, the LT series of micros was obsolete and very neutered compared even to the OUTGOING E8 / E11
-- YEARS behind
Thanks for the feedback. I totally agree the haltechs are superior, and the price reflects this. I\'ve gone with the Microtech, as this will allow a budget install wihtout losing the basic functionality I would like... Please don\'t think I\'m discounting your opinion - it\'s quite clear you know more about this stuff than I do, but the microtech is well known in Aus, and that\'s where they have done a lot more of these types of conversions and can help easily.
However, the FD going back on the road will likely get a Haltech - I\'m happier spending more pennies that way!!