hey guys im quite new on here and have been reading up loads, getting closer to getting my dream rx7, an import company in south wales is looking for a white type r, rs, or rz for me.
when i get the car i will have some time before its on the road as my curent insurance company wont insure me on it but i dont want to loose this years no claims, so ill be using a little runabout until may when my insurance is up
id like to put a few gauges in like oil temp, pressure, boost and vacuum but i keep hearing terms like "rats nest" and dont quite understand, also i would like to know a list of mods to made the car more reliable, like ive heard about vacuum lines being changed but what else would you reccommend? and where to get the parts?
eventually i would like to just build a subtle looking rex with some nice carbon touches, them move onto more power
the rx7 i will be buying should have a fresh rebuild and i get 12 months parts and labour warrenty so hopefully should be a nice solid rex
tom
Hi best get a water temp gauge as standard fitted on on dash is not reliable -unless you have an apexi ecu with commander then you can view water temps on commander
Quote from: thomas_mk6;579823hey guys im quite new on here and have been reading up loads, getting closer to getting my dream rx7, an import company in south wales is looking for a white type r, rs, or rz for me.
when i get the car i will have some time before its on the road as my curent insurance company wont insure me on it but i dont want to loose this years no claims, so ill be using a little runabout until may when my insurance is up
id like to put a few gauges in like oil temp, pressure, boost and vacuum but i keep hearing terms like "rats nest" and dont quite understand, also i would like to know a list of mods to made the car more reliable, like ive heard about vacuum lines being changed but what else would you reccommend? and where to get the parts?
eventually i would like to just build a subtle looking rex with some nice carbon touches, them move onto more power
the rx7 i will be buying should have a fresh rebuild and i get 12 months parts and labour warrenty so hopefully should be a nice solid rex
tom
water injection and ignition amp and as said above by peter
boost gauge is a must - why dont they come standard?!
water injection and ignition amp? can you explain please? remember i am a bit simple haha
Water injection is a kit that injects water into the engine at high pressue on higher boost levels, this cools down the air coming into the engine. If the air and fuel going into the engine get too hot they detonate causing a lot of damage to the engine. This is why water injection is used for higher boost applications.
The ignition amplifier boosts up the spark that plugs make in the engine so that the water doesn\'t put the spark out when injecting the water! (think of it like as the water injection is trying to put out the fire that is the spark plug) :D
Not 100% sure you\'ll need spark amp and water injection until you start heading down the power route TBH. Gauges are a must, water and boost should be the 1st you get, also a power FC (if it\'s not got one) is a must, if it\'s an import new tires are essential if it\'s coming from Japan and the power Fc as the fuel in japan is a higher ron so it will need mapping for UK fuel.
Once you\'ve done that then look at cooling, the standard Intercooler is fairly rubbish so most upgrade that, you have 3 choices: standard position (usually the cheapest but propper ducting can be an issue); front mounted (great for the look and road use) and finally a V-mount (where the rad and intercooler form a v shape, the open end faces the front of the car and the v points back towards the engine, i/c on the top and rad the lower part) the v-mount seems to be the favoured route as you dont get as much heat soak (where heat from the rad caused the I/c to get hot when in traffic so it is less effective at cooling the air) and the ducting is fairly easily sorted but you have to move the rad.
have a look here form some inspiration: http://robrobinette.com/reliabiltiy.htm (http://robrobinette.com/reliabiltiy.htm)
You may consider getting an uprated rad to allow the car to cool itself better, cooling the car down is better than aiming for power.
Air intakes is something else to look at but bare in mind that mazda spend a fortune sorting out the air flow to the car so dont get any cheap rubbish as this may cause more probs. If you do want an nice new air filter that make a lovely rasping noise (can you tell i\'ve got one and love the sound?lol) then try and sort out a cold air feed, i found sheet alu from B&Q easy to shape and cut and does a good job, this also work for ducting with the i/c and rad if you go for a standard mounting i/c (this is my current set up and it works for me)
In order of importance, I would recomend:
1) Tyres (wether they have 3mm or 8mm of tread, Tyres fitted in japan are ditch finders, unless they are advans then they tend to be good!)
2) ECU
3) Remap on UK fuel (go for 97 ron as you can get that anywhere. If you map for Vpower & find yourself somwhere were you cant get it you run the risk of detenation with lower octain fuel = BOOM)
4) Gauges (boost, oil pressure, and if you want oil temp)
If she is single turbo or non sequential twins, you will not have a rats nest, but if it is sequential twin turbo (standard) then you will have a rats nest, this is what controles the second turbo spool up & activation. pipes have a tendancey to perish resultin in loss of pressure & turbos not operating correctly. the other comon fault is a dogey solonoid in the rats nest, this again will affect how your turbos will operate!
Jono
thanks for all the good advice guys, really helpful, when i get the car im assuming it wil be mapped to run on japanese spec petrol, will i be ok to run it on 97 ron for a while until i can get it mapped or is it best not to? also i live in the birmingham area and cant find any rotary specialists apart from in coventry,
looks like i will need to buy a power fc then first?
Pip@ WGT in cheshire or Hayward rotary (North) would be your closest .
If you are going to run it on UK fuel, please use V-Power or the Tesco 99ron super unleaded!! and don\'t go giving it the beans till it is fully mapped or you might be picking bits up off the floor!!
Jono
get an ignition amp dude... it helps ignition break up at high revs... if your coil packs are fuggered and you take it to high revs and the spark is weak it can cause serious damage... with an ignition amp it will help keep the spark strong... water injection is maybe not a necessity but again it is good for reliability..
but the other stuff mentioned above is also very important... imho i just think you should add ignition amp to what people have said above... but don\'t dismiss what others have said because what they have said is very important too
two very good mods are radiator and ast, the stadnard rad is not that great and the plastic standard ast is prone ot crack so replace the rad with a better one, i can recommned the koyo one and also replace the ast with a aluminium one
also a power fc and commander are very good mods
Ive done 6k miles on 97/99 ron fuel, although i have a Power FC which i will get fitted and mapped soon, surely 97/99 will be ok for the while?