Need some help please. Got some trouble starting the RX. Starts ok with a jump after a little while. I have checked the battery voltage when engine is running and is 14v so alternator is ok. I have checked the continuity between the -ve terminal and an 2 earth points and that is ok. Also, over night i lost 0.2volts, from 12.6v to 12.4volts.
So I removed the battery and charged it to 13.6V\'s. Put the battery back on the car and measured the voltage straight away, and immediatley the voltage read 12.6v - I lost a whole VOLT!!!!:eek:
The REX still ventually started but hav i got a really really bad drain? Also what seems strange is that every time I switch off the engine the trip gauge resets itself?
Its a single turbo, loads of gauges inc. Greddy E-01 system, dual head units and a Clifford 300 alaram and some thick amp wires not connected.
Any thoughts guys and girls?
coughs clifford >:P
Surely the Clifford cant drain 1volt imediately and/or 0.2volts in 12hours??
Was also thinking poor earth on the starter motor?
if it were a poor earth ash chances are that would save elecrtic as theres no curcit for the drain to occur my guess is the alarm mate always happend with friends batterys going flat tend to be all clifford problems
Just found this site:-
http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm
Point 3 on that page at the top. I have an issue with my F100 relay (windows only going down in short pulses and seatbelt light flashing). Does the relay stick and could this be my drain?
At first sight, if those readings happened on my old FB I wouldn\'t worry too much. When the charged up battery is put back in the car there could by a \'clamping\' effect from within the car\'s circuits which might include capacitors and all sorts of static devices.
Also is the 0.2 volt drop repeated the next day and so on? The bigger question for me is - does the voltage drop right down whilst it\'s cranking. Also do the headlights dim whilst trying to start?
How old is the battery is there a faulty cell?
Sorry but I\'m not up on FD\'s - the comments above are where I would start from on the FB. It may still be that there is a drain at the end of the day, it\'s just that I would put that down the list of possibilities, maybe not at the start.
Easiest way to locate a drain on a car battery ( assuming the battery is A1 ) is with a multimeter. Set the mutimeter to AMPS ( not milliamps ). Remove the earth terminal of the battery and put the multimeter leads in series i.e. one on the battery terminal and one on the removed earth clamp. The meter will register any current flowing. Ensure everything is switched off, boot and doors closed etc. Then its a case of removing fuses/ leads until the drain ceases.
Update:- Checked the voltage and its dropped 0.2volts since yesterday, so now reads 12.4v. I have removed the battery and taken it inside. I will charge it up to 13v. Leave it over night and see what happens, probably nothing but worth a shot?
David Nock - Headlights dont dim, the engine turns fine and almost almost starts and then the 4th, 5th or even 10th attempt it starts or with a jump.
Could be the plugs. Not had a chance to check them but they are BUR9\'s but unsure how old they are? Other things im considering are:
- Starter motor, how do i check that?
- Plug leads
- Coil packs - how can i check these?
Thanks, ash
-
Headlights don\'t dim as its starting. Engine turns fine. That suggests nothing wrong with battery, earth connections or starter. Plug change would be my 1st move, especially if they could be old ones. Spray plug leads with WD 40, including rubber boots on coils etc
Update 2:- Last night i charged the battery upto 12.76volts AND removed the battery from the car for the charge. I kept the battery inside my house overnight. I recorded the following voltages at different times.
7.19pm = 12.76v
7.58pm = 12.72v
8.37pm = 12.70v
10.20pm = 12.66v
7.20am = 12.58v
7.48am = 12.57v
6.15pm = 12.54v
So in just under 23hours the battery has lost 0.32volts, and this was without ANYTHING connected to it during this time.
Can someone please tell me if this kind of loss is normal?
Thanks
Ash
Just in case anyone wants an update? Im starting to believe my battery just hasnt got enough amperageor whatever the right word is...on a jump start the car DOES Start, after a long heavy charge inside, the car DOES start, so its got to be the battery - right???
Also, i changed the plugs for brand new BUR9EQPs all round.
I reckon if your battery isn\'t holding charge it\'s rubber ducked mate. It might be worth trying to top it up with DISTILLED water if its a maintenenace required type - might save you 70quid or so on a new one. Failing that, the plates may have just corroded and its knackered.
HTH
Graeme
Remember the battery is 12volts,
Like buckman says only way to check for a drain is with a amp meter ?
have you checked that ??
Mick
Mick - Im addicted to checking the volts! :Giggle Not checked the drain of amps, will do tomorrow.
It started 1 HOUR ago with 12.39v in the battery on its second go. Drove it round for a while, tried to start it again and it just wouldnt do that last little bit. Took a reading before i went in, and it was 12.99volts. Will see what it is tomorrow.
I had a chat with a guy at the 4w laser place yesterday and he reckons it might have been the mapping. I.e. not used to the colder weather?
Also, sometimes I get a weird buzzing noise after trying to start her that comes from below the UIM.....?
As an old geezer, with absolutely no experience of FD\'s, can I stick my neck out and say that if the headlights don\'t dim whilst cranking over, it\'s not likely to be a battery problem as the battery voltage seems to be holding up. Anybody correct me?
David regarding your point I would intially agree, but why would a jump start or a fully charged battery start the FD? Perhaps, the Cold Cranking Amps (sp) CCA value is too low - from memory its 550 i think.
Hmm..... well I know you have to get rotaries spinning fairly fast to start them, so you may well need a high value of cold cranking amps. What if your compressions are down Ash, or what if something in the electronics requires extra high battery voltage on ignition? I just don\'t know mate.
I do know that the FB has to be run fairly regularly if it is to start easily. If it\'s left if cold weather for say a week or more it can be tricky to start, even though it will then go 1st time the next day. No bearing on your problem though?
I have checked the CCA and its 565 and 65ah. Voltage is down to 12.39volts. I reckon Im going to have to bite the bullet, but I will also see if topping up with distilled water makes any difference?
Anyone recommend a really good battery in case?
find someone with another rex that works, and try their battery lol! if i was closer would let u try mine :) but im not lol sorry
Malice - good idea, anyone near the Watford, Herts area that could pop over sometime? Will cover petrol if not too far.
Ash
Today I got a jump start from a \'Power Pack\' one that gets its power from the mains and the car fired to life so quickly its was amazing :wiggle - so Im going to bite the bullet and go for a high powered battery with a high Cranking capacity - can someone recommend a decent battery please, the higher the CCA the better i reckon - no £150 + batteries though, it is Xmas :yes