Hi there,
Firstly i would like to introduce myself, my name is john and i have a 93 fd type R.
Again im sorry i havent introduced my self propely but unfortunety i have a big prob and really need some help.
my rex has had a new engine and turbo pack approx 14k ago and since with a apexi. the car has always had its little prob but now i have a big one and not sure what it could be
the story starts 2 weeks ago i was using the car and had to show up a prat in a 911 then when i finish playing i started to cool her down and then came to a junction, the car stalled so i restared but she sounded like a tool box full of spanners ( major mis fire). panicked pushed it to the side of the road and got a truck to get me home. After thinkin and crapping myself that i may have blown another engine i thought i would have a look at the prob and got some advice.
SO FAR i have changed all 3 coil packs (twice as one was bought on ebay) leads for some 11mm and some new plugs. Put a couple of cans of v power and then ummmm, same dam thing. made sure she isnt flooded but she wasn\'t.
i have been scared to even start her and the bat went flat so bought a new one and tried again she then started to sound and idle so much better but not right 2 days later tried again and back to square 1, but now there is blue smoke :( had to move the car as neighbours were gettin peed off, and she drives like she is not getting any fuel. i cant do a diy compression test as she wont hold idle i have had to adjust the idc. and cant get it to a rx specialist as too far from the nearist one.
Just wondered if u guys can give any advice about this, for example could it be the injectors or the ecu maybe. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
regards
John
sounds like you have blown it im afraid, did you have it mapped when you fitted the Apexi?
Have you checked the Map sensor? the vacuum line to it may have broken which will cause a misfire and overfueling
14K is a bloody good innings :Thumbs-up well done.
blitz thanks for the reply yer the ecu was remapped and then checked over when i did a rolling road and apart from running abit rich all was great. As for the map sensor sorry to sound dumb but it that the little black box on the pass side above the abs...
yep its near the ABS unit, a vacuum line goes from there to the Plenum
Mine had a missfire (before the engine gave up the ghost with water seal failure..)
Used to occasionally stall at junctions. Similarly, at random times it would bog down while driving and then once the spark kicked in again you\'d have a huge bang. Neighbours loved it.
Changed plugs, leads, etc etc. Eventually decided it must be a short somewhere in the loom. We bypassed the loom running a direct power supply to the standard ignition amp (using a relay running off the ignition to cut the feed when the car was off!) and this solved all.
Just trying to give you some hope... :)
thanks, the wiring loom was rewired and the rats nest was changed so all pipin in 3.5 mm silicone hosing, any ideas how i can check the map sensor guys
Is it in anyway over fueling mate.
The reason I say this is it may be like a problem I had, bit of a blat and play on the way to Silverstone and she just started popping and banging and chugging and kicking out heavey exhaust smoke, first thought was the pipe off the map sensor but it wasn\'t.
It was the Air Sensor.The Air Temp sensor is situated under the plenum sort of in the middle of the bends. It just unplugs and unscrews. I got a second hand one from a scrap yard. Changed it and the problem was solved. If, as in my case the sensor was reading extra cold (I believe as was not able to test it just change it) the ECU was dropping fuel in it like hell. if it is reading too hot then you will get the ECU going into limp mode.
If you have a mate with a Rex then just check it by nicking your mates one for a test. HTH.
thank u all for your help i will have a play tommorrow and see whats what, will report on the issue tommorow, thank u once again
hi guys just wondered if u could give me a bit more advise, i wondered if u could help me by telling me how i check the above mentioned sensors
read the owners manual, it tells you the procedures to check all the sensors.
Also look at pulling the stored codes from the ecu. Gives you an idea whats going on
http://www.rx7city.com/ecucodes.htm
Lastly, do a compression test. (you dont need the car to start/idle)
Map sensor is behind the plenum on the passenger side of the car just about, if its unplugged you will see it hanging down bud.
If all fails get it compression checked as it eliminates the possibility the engine has blown, but the MAP sensor disconnected will make it idle crazy and feel like you are running on 1 rotor.
The Apexi PFC unit also has a safe mode where if it feels the engine could be in danger it sets it to limp mode, this happened in my purple rx7 on the tunnel run a few years ago HOWEVER it did reset itself once the air temps and water temps got cooler.
hi guys, just a quick question regardin the compression test, are you able to use a standard comp tester to see if the engine has gone....if so whats the best way do i have to disconnect the coils or anything..
Quote from: needham;572455hi guys, just a quick question regardin the compression test, are you able to use a standard comp tester to see if the engine has gone....if so whats the best way do i have to disconnect the coils or anything..
There are certain compression tests you can do without a tester, unfortunatly compression testers are ment for piston engines and its best to get it checked out at a specialist, won\'t cost much and will give you peace of mind, plus the specilists will be able to give an indication what might be up with it whilst you are there :)
mine was compression tested by karl at heyward rotary and he had a digital 3 way type tester that meausred each stroke of the rotor, just aquick question what do you count as a missfire? coz after boosting it, if i let off it pops and crackles (sounds like a gun shot!) quite abit, and if i accelerate quick and totaly come off it bangs massively again like a gun, is that it missfiring? or is it before you accelerate? sorry its my first rotary engine so im still learning bits
Nope - the banging your getting on let off is un burnt fuel - that\'s all good :driving
Quote from: gandyRX;572927mine was compression tested by karl at heyward rotary and he had a digital 3 way type tester that meausred each stroke of the rotor, just aquick question what do you count as a missfire? coz after boosting it, if i let off it pops and crackles (sounds like a gun shot!) quite abit, and if i accelerate quick and totaly come off it bangs massively again like a gun, is that it missfiring? or is it before you accelerate? sorry its my first rotary engine so im still learning bits
hi guys, i have had the same problem since sunday, i have just taken my map sensor off and taken the vacuum line off too. would i be right in saying it has a one way valve in it? if so, i shouldnt be able to blow down it both ways should i? because i can, would this maybe be a contributing factor to my problem? thanks
hi again, i have spoken to mazda and they say that what i thought was a one way valve, is actually a filter. i have also removed the plugs today, and they were black in colour. only carbon deposits though not oily deposits.
i gave them a quick clean and put them back in and it seemed to improve things a little but its still no where near sorted. any ideas??
\'A quick clean\' might not be enough mate. If the electrode has been contaminated enough the spark will still be crap. Best whip them out and clean them up properly or better still get a new set.
Other problems I can think of: HT leads might be knackered/split/corroded so the plugs aren\'t getting a decent hit of volts. Any one of the coils could be knackered - same outcome as HT leads....
All relatively simple things to check - would def be worthwhile spending an hour doing that before jumping to bad conclusions!!
HTH
graeme
if you take ur plugs out and turn your engine over manually you should be able to hear six even compression strokes.
ive got a set of plugs for collection on friday
i was looking at a plug thread on here yesterday and they were saying to run 7\'s leading and 9\'s trailing but my local brights autos say that their listing for and rx7 is just a set of 4 9\'s (part number being bur9eqp (ngk plugs)) would this make any great difference running a colder plug in the leading?
also, does anybody know how to test coil packs?
thanks for the help
they will be fine!!
Its open to interpretation what plugs you use, but for a standard or mildly modded rex, 9\'s all round are fine.
Asfor testing coil packs im assuming you can still use the standard technique - take one out and hold it using insulated pliers and crank the engine. You should see a decent voltage on the end. OR, take out the plug as well and you should see the spark.
Anyone any better ideas?
thanks guys, i will get the plugs on friday and ill get a set of leads too.
ill report back my findings when they are fitted
guys,
i have just changed the plugs and it has made next to no difference.
i have just been out for a bit of a longer test drive and have had a little play around.
if i drive along putting steady pressure on the accelerator, the car will pull fine all the way through the rev range, but if i put my foot down at low revs, the car seems to stop revving and pop and splutter at about 2.2-2.5k rpm?
im very confused! am i right in saying that is about the revs that the first turbo comes in at? it just seems that when there is a real demand for fuel it just doesent want to go there?
any ideas would be greatly recieved
james
First tubby kicks in at around 1500 or so IIRC, and is definately well in by about 2500. If the cars is popping then at least some fuel is going in. If its popping it sounds like TOO much fuel is going in.....
...... so maybe an air temp sensor telling the ecu its still cold so chucking too much fuel in?? mite be worth swapping it with the one on my mates fd. im taking it to get it put on a computer tomorrow hopefully to give me a bit more direction. am i right in saying that i have to remove the plenum to get to the sensor? might aswell replace all of the vacuum hoses if ive got the plenum off!
thanks for the reply trotter
check for exhaust leaks this may cause it to overfuel,check the earths aswell the coils may be struggling under load,mine had a similar fault turned out to be fuel pump cutting out so maybe worth checking pressure will driving,
i had this problem...the boosting problem at least. i reset the ecu and all was good again. but mine is still a standard ecu.
Boost leak perhaps. Check the intake system for any loose joints. The blue smoke will be excess fuel.
i allways thought blue smoke was oil, black/grey smoke was fuel and white was water
Yeah blue smoke is oil,white will be fuel or coolant or both,though the coolant smell is quite obvious the fuel smoke will make you faint .:(
thanks guys, i will check the exhaust for leaks. i will also check the intake sytem. i have got a standard ecu also so i will try re-setting it aswell. oh and i will check the earth too. is it just one main earth strap? and if so, where is it located? im not new to mechanical work, im just new to rotaries!! also, how can i check fuel press. whilst driving?
The main earth strap is right next to the plugs its a thick black wire it also then connects to the body then the battery so make sure theyre all clean.The other is on the inlet manifold rigth next to the 02 sensor multiplug its really thin,
You would need to get a fuel pressure gauge from somewhere and put it in the feed pipe to the injector rails then stick it to the windscreen or have someone hold it and monitor it when the fault occurs to see if it drops off,
okay then, i will try cleaning all of the earth straps tonight when i get home from work and try re-setting the ecu also, i will also look into getting that fuel press. guage. i will post my findings tonight, thanks again
Have you checked the fuel pump voltage?
guys!! its all sorted and working fine now!
it must have been a combination of what i have just done which is, re-set ecu, replaced vac hose from map sensor to plenum with fancy new blue hose and cleaned earth strap from plenum to bulkhead. so many many thanks to everyone for their help on here for teaching me a bit about my car.
the next job for the car is a new clutch slave cylinder because i found out mine was up the spout after changing the clutch and replacing all the vacuum hoses with nice red new ones!!
cheers, james
good news mate,well done
thanks a.tapos, completely unrelated but, how can i tell if i have an 8 of 16bit ecu? im pretty sure i have got the standard one on there that says n3b7 on it and is a uk car if that helps
thanks again
Quote from: Aceman;556831Mine had a missfire (before the engine gave up the ghost with water seal failure..)
Used to occasionally stall at junctions. Similarly, at random times it would bog down while driving and then once the spark kicked in again you\'d have a huge bang. Neighbours loved it.
Changed plugs, leads, etc etc. Eventually decided it must be a short somewhere in the loom. We bypassed the loom running a direct power supply to the standard ignition amp (using a relay running off the ignition to cut the feed when the car was off!) and this solved all.
Just trying to give you some hope... :)
i think i need to try that, mines misfiring and my loom is knackered