Ok guys, this is the stage I\'m at at the moment of stripping the block....
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00035.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00036.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00037.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00038.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00039.jpg)
Curious as to what\'s next?? I\'m already beginning to forget the order of putting some stuff back on. Oh well.... lmao.
thanks in advance.
Front pully wheel & Flywheel off next would be good :D
My local garage are going to buzz the flywheel off for me.
I\'ll go take the front pulley off then.. (or at least try). :)
DIY RE :Thumbsup!
I\'ll host them online somewhere if I can get time (between gaming and forum browsing)
cheers mate.
Argh! How to you get the nut off on the front pulley?
A big bar? :Thumbs-up
Got there in the end! lol.
Wedged the flywheel with a screwdriver and used a "big bar" ... lol.
Quick question guys...
The plate behind that pulley... I\'ve undone all the bolts I can see, also those under the sump that are in that area. It moves a little near the top when pulled, but not much anywhere else.
Does the sump pan need to come off prior to this?
This is the part I mean.. the part just behind the pulley.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00036.jpg)
u should get the dvds man lol, it`ll help u no ends :D
i think you need to take the big 54mm nut off the flywheel end before anything else and then the sump, then all the bolts that go through the block.
This is the part I\'m trying to get off... so the flywheel needs to come off first?
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC000366.jpg)
PS : that pulley is off.
cheers
Quote from: interloper393;556813u should get the dvds man lol, it`ll help u no ends :D
I know!!! lol. Not doing that bad without it though. :)
Plus this will surely help others at some point down the line.
not sure weather the flywheel and that has to come off to get the front cover off but i would get the flywheel and the 54mm nut off first and go from there, then you can take the sump off along with all the bolts.
Is that an inside floor ??
Once you split the front cover off there will be lots of fluids leaking out !!!!! Mainly oil and Coolant.
Shaun
Yeah... that already happened when I tipped it on its side.
Heaps of oil and coolant. Was very messy!! Was coming out faster than I could clean it up!!
Was playing with a 12a and the same happened to me. Didn\'t realise just how much oil was in the sump :Giggle
Shaun
Yeah... was messy. I was suprised at how much was coming out!
Supposedly if I take the sump off that cover should come off easily as it\'s most probably being held in place with the sealant from the sump. The flywheel doesn\'t need to come off to get it off, just the front nut and pulley (which is already off). (from the rx7club forums).
Quote from: interloper393;556813u should get the dvds man lol, it`ll help u no ends :D
I\'ve just ordered the set! :)
its only a guess, but the more you strip the block the harder it will be to remove the fly wheel?I would get the fly wheel off next.
good work tho fella:Thumbs-up
Depends if you use some sort of flywheel stopper I suppose.
It\'s not an issue for me though as the garage will be getting it off with an air gun.
Quote from: Jim_rx7;556912Depends if you use some sort of flywheel stopper I suppose.
It\'s not an issue for me though as the garage will be getting it off with an air gun.
You better make sure they have a 54mm socket first. It\'s not a widely used socket on cars. I bet you a tenner they dont have one that big!
It\'s best to remove the front pulley bolt first, but you need to lock the flywheel still with a chain or bar to loosen it, then undo the big 54mm nut. Can\'t believe your doing this on that laminate floor you nutter.
I hope you marked the relationship between the front hub and pulley with the sensor tabs on, otherwise your timings gonne be off, and the car wont start. There is no need to remove the 4 little bolts to the pulley at all. Just remove the main 19mm bolt in the middle.
Quote from: RobbieRX-7;556992I hope you marked the relationship between the front hub and pulley with the sensor tabs on, otherwise your timings gonne be off, and the car wont start. There is no need to remove the 4 little bolts to the pulley at all. Just remove the main 19mm bolt in the middle.
Care to explain a little on this one?
Jim\'s going to be doing a write up once he is finished :god :Santa
Dude, Cant find anywhere who will host (for free) the videos, they are 400mb each. I can DVD them and post it to you if you want. Drop me a line. kieronDOTash@snowandrockDOTcom
Quote from: Jim_rx7;557074Care to explain a little on this one?
On the front pulley, there is a metal ring with squares in. This ring has 2 tabs on. These tabs pass over the 2 sensors on the front cover, so the computer know\'s exactly when to inject fuel, and spark the plugs. If this ring is incorrect and fitted wrong, the synchronisation will be out and the computer won\'t know the position of the rotors thus refusing to start. The timing will be out.
Now you\'ve taken this ring off, there are 4 different ways that it could go back on. If you didn\'t mark the E shaft and pulley before removal, your gonna have to guess which way round it goes after you\'ve installed the motor back in the car.
QuoteOn the front pulley, there is a metal ring with squares in. This ring has 2 tabs on. These tabs pass over the 2 sensors on the front cover, so the computer know\'s exactly when to inject fuel, and spark the plugs. If this ring is incorrect and fitted wrong, the synchronisation will be out and the computer won\'t know the position of the rotors thus refusing to start. The timing will be out.
Now you\'ve taken this ring off, there are 4 different ways that it could go back on. If you didn\'t mark the E shaft and pulley before removal, your gonna have to guess which way round it goes after you\'ve installed the motor back in the car.
No need to guess, it will only fit in one position where all the bolts line up.
have fun with the 19mm front bolt and 54mm nut that holds the f/w on
tip: secure the block to something first and you\'ll need a bit more than a long breaker like a scaff pole to put over the breaker
That smaller front crank bolt is usually a complete ninja compared to the big 54mm crank bolt on the back. You need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 19inch socket. I broke 2 1/2 inch breaker bars, a socket, an impact socket and an adapter before going out and getting a bloody 3/4inch socket last week! cost me £50 just to remove the bolt lol! You need to loosen the small one at the front first. The DVDs will explain everything. You really don\'t want to be assembling the engine again without them, taking it apart isn\'t too bad but putting it together there\'s lots of things to check like tolerances etc which could mean another dead engine if not done properly.
Quote from: FD3UK;557135No need to guess, it will only fit in one position where all the bolts line up.
Good. And there i was thinking the stupid mazda engineers made a simple, yet frustrating design flaw.:2Confused
Quote from: royal;557162That smaller front crank bolt is usually a complete ninja compared to the big 54mm crank bolt on the back. You need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 19inch socket. I broke 2 1/2 inch breaker bars, a socket, an impact socket and an adapter before going out and getting a bloody 3/4inch socket last week! cost me £50 just to remove the bolt lol! You need to loosen the small one at the front first. The DVDs will explain everything. You really don\'t want to be assembling the engine again without them, taking it apart isn\'t too bad but putting it together there\'s lots of things to check like tolerances etc which could mean another dead engine if not done properly.
I 100% agree. There are lots of little things you could miss out, or get frustrated with, when really there is a simple technique to follow. The apex seals are one of them, along with the sideseals and oil control ring springs. It\'s a piece of cake to rebuild, but dont do it unless you know what your doing. The ozzie dvd\'s will guide you well for a basic rebuild.
I don\'t think you\'ll need a bloody 19" socket though :Laugh Thats one BIG mutha!
double post
Haha oops you catch my drift though? :D
I\'ve ordered the DVD set, they should be here tomorrow.
I\'ve got the front nut off with alot of persuasion. The garage will do the flywheel for me.
Glad about that part only fitting one way. Had me worried!!
Quote from: royal;557162That smaller front crank bolt is usually a complete ninja compared to the big 54mm crank bolt on the back. You need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 19inch socket. I broke 2 1/2 inch breaker bars, a socket, an impact socket and an adapter before going out and getting a bloody 3/4inch socket last week! cost me £50 just to remove the bolt lol! You need to loosen the small one at the front first. The DVDs will explain everything. You really don\'t want to be assembling the engine again without them, taking it apart isn\'t too bad but putting it together there\'s lots of things to check like tolerances etc which could mean another dead engine if not done properly.
I rammed a screwsdriver through one of the holes in the flywheel. Sat on the back of the block and yanked like a mofo!! Came off... I did think th breaker bar was going to snap though!!
Ok, I\'m getting there! :)
Quick question... how do you get this nozzle thing off? (circled in the pic)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00043.jpg)
The block is going to my local nice garage for them to get the flywheel off for me tomorrow.
This is what the block now looks like...
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00042.jpg)
Once you\'ve got the flywheel bolt loosened I wouldn\'t go any further until you\'re watched the DVDs, its a lot better if you are prepared when you take the block apart and get the rotors out. You\'ll save a lot of hassle later.
You preferably need to mark front and back rotor and keep a track of what rotor face all the parts come off of. If you don\'t know what to expect they\'ll all just drop off and you\'ll lose track of where they come from.
Yeah, I\'ve got the DVDs on order. RotaryArt seem to be making an arse of getting them to me though! Hopefully should have them tomorrow.
Yeah, I knew about marking up the rotors etc. I\'ve got the FSM which should hopefully keep me going until the DVD\'s arrive.
I\'m going to be taking it apart and laying it out as it is when it\'s together. (if that makes sense?). Just so I know exactly how they should be.
I\'m watching this post like a nosey school kid lol, and think i will buy the dvd\'s from RotaryArt also :yes
Looks like its all going well! :Thumbsup!
The DVD\'s are decent mate. They give you a good idea of how to do things. It\'s not hard at all to be honest, but the DVDs really help.
This is the stage I\'m at just now mate...
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00052-2.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/DSC00053-2.jpg)
I\'ve posted another thread with the pictures in it and some questions etc. Go have a read. :) It\'s going well so far.
I love it, engine in the house lol your lady must be well happy lmao
It does look like its going well, what rebuild kit did you purchase? And who from in the end chap?
I\'ll be using the complete seal kit from RotaryArt.
Will be cleaning and measuring everything to see what needs replacing etc.
The lady is taking it all quite well to be honest! lol. She\'s just staying away from the room.
Awesome, what is the price for their kit, if you don\'t mind me asking?
£150 for full block seal kit.
Still need some gaskets etc on top of it.
Quote from: Jim_rx7;560811The lady is taking it all quite well to be honest! lol. She\'s just staying away from the room.
Where did you get your woman from, I need one just like her :) has she got a sister? I\'m half Scottish if it helps?!
Sorry about the small hijack but could you do me a big favour ???
Could you measure what the distance between these holes are :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/Holecentres.jpg)
Cheers
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;561167Sorry about the small hijack but could you do me a big favour ???
Could you measure what the distance between these holes are :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/Holecentres.jpg)
Cheers
Shaun
Mmm. I think shaun\'s cooking up an LPG kit for the FD:Giggle:Thumbsup!
take the sump off after the front pulley and flywheel,once the sump is off you can remove the front cover an access the oil pump and counterweight,make sure yo take a pic of the chain and weight behind the front cover so you put it all back together the right way round
,it doesnt matter which way up the thin gear goes back on the ecc shaft but mark it if you want to.
also make sure when you remove all the free wheeling parts that you have a metal spacer underneath the counterweight,i lost one and it was a pain,you should have one long dowell at the front of the block holding everything inline and a short one at the back on the flywheel/ecc shaft make sure you take these off whatever theyre stuck to as they have a habit of hiding too,
when you remove the 6 might be 8 bolts at the front of the block there will b a thrust washer and a washer make a note of the order,these small details could trip somebody up,
do the same at the back,you should be able to remove the stationary gear now just lever and tap them out,
the good bit is removing all the big bolts at the back of the engine and prizing the plates open to see what youve broken,ive got a engine stand that attches to the front plate but if you havent youll want to stand the engine on its front so you can lift all the sections off like a big mac.
not a great description but hope it helps.
**** this posted later then i hoped,sorry mate
lol... I was gonna say... I\'ve already done it! :)
Curious how much parts are to do a rebuil ? i know it depends on how much damage, :)
Full seal kit £150
Then it depends on what parts are needed etc.
Have a look on somewhere like pineapple racing for prices.
Quote from: shaunwil;561167Sorry about the small hijack but could you do me a big favour ???
Could you measure what the distance between these holes are :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/Holecentres.jpg)
Cheers
Shaun
Can do mate... do you mean from the centre of one hole to the other hole centre?
Yes please :D
I\'m drawing up some primary Top Feed rails at the minute for some 850cc Injectors.
Haven\'t really got the LPG setup in full motion so gone with 850/1600cc injectors :D
Shaun
That sounds very reasonable, and as you say its just a case of replacing everything that needs to be? Have you got an idea what your going to be doing on top of that yet, now that you\'ve pretty much stripped it?
I used pineapple racing in the u.s all gen mazda tips springs and bearings with heavy duty seals for 800 quid,did get stung for 130 quid vat which was pooh though.
top class setup up and very helpfull,check the videos.:Santa