The heat light next to the rear window heater buttin flashes(flickers) when i aacelerate. Any ideas what this could be?
I have a nice shiny \'93 Veilside Rex and im loving it :)
Hi to everyone.
Marco
Hey marco.
Nice to see you making an appearance. :D
P.S. marco is a raging homosexual.
Im gonna kill u fat boy:flamed
PMSL I take it Deano wrote your sig. I almost wet myself when I read that.
:D guilty your honour
Lets not forget Marco has a problem with his rex!
:rollin According to you thats not all he has a problem with! ;) (only joking before anyone says anything!!)
Sounds like the Cat overheating light. Don\'t think its that serious if its just a flickering.....but i would check previous posts to be sure (i have read post on this before)
Cheers
Donato
I know his cats removed.
Could it be possible the cat has been removed but the sensor cables haven\'t??? :confused:
If you have an Apexi or after market ecu the heat light acts as a knock warning light - do you know what mods you have?
i know he has an apexi ecu. what does the knock sensor warn of?
Knock :)
or commonly known as Detonation
Not a great thing to have going on as knock kills engines, get him to get it checked out
Dave
not good at all!!!
i will tell him asap.
Shit that dont sound good. do u no how much this sort of thing is to sort out?:(
depends whats causing it mate, could just have to turn the boost down a bit.
I think your runnig quite high arent u?
yeah 14psi
i dont know what standard is, my boost gauge is buggered.
But i know how quickly detonation can cause damage.
perfect timing,
I have just had my apexi mapped and now my knock warning light flashes and the knock scale goes way up......... when i am not on boost. I am only running 10 psi and when i am hard on the boost its ok, but when i am general driving the knock goes ballistic...... upto 150 on the commander scale. It even does it on the revs come down. I have put a knock sensor from a spare engine in and it does exactly the same, so its not a faulty knock sensor. Can anyone help please.......:confused:
From another thread, a reply from 20bBoy, cheers Rich
quote:
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Originally posted by davefrith
Wouldn\'t 1.1bar knacker your engine fairly quickly ?
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1.1bar is a lot to run on pump fuel and stock turbos.
High boost will try and twist a motor if its not pinned, and the harder you push generally the shorter engine life will be. If you are running your car tuned HARD then it only takes a bit of poo fuel to make a big mess of your motor and your wallet...
Stock tubbys produce a lot of heat when u run them at 14psi+ and often shit themselves (oil seals etc) pretty quick living such a life.
__________________
Rich
same probs here with knock shown on the apexi commander, any ideas people???
The Knock light [heat light] on an Apexi is not the best indicator for detination - what it is picking up is engine noise, if for example you have solid engine mounts it will detect vibration ect. The best way to check your tuning is to put it on the rollers, make sure your AFR is in the \'safe\' zone, for the sake of the cost of a power run, it must be worth it!
Ive been in a 200sx overboosting at 20psi, and when that started to det you could hear it.
It sounded like a crisp packet being screwed up, and although the car was shit fast, the boost was wound back down to 14psi which is pretty safe on the SR20DET.
Thats the difference between a piston and a rotor; you can play with a pistons timing until you start to hear it pinging, whereas on a rotor you\'ll have probably chipped a corner or worse by then :(
Johns just about summed it up. The Power FC picks up all manner of ambient engine bay nose like mount vibrations, wastegate chatter and the like. Loads of people get the erroneous off boost cruising heat light \'problem\'. One of the Datalogit guys in NZ once posted on the NZ list that he used to see 130+ indicated knock on the Commander and just ignored it...
I think as Marco has only recently got the car, and the fact th elight only goes on when he is accelerating it is probably det.
I just hope he books up to have it looked at. He\'s good at ignoring people.
I had a PFC on my car for a couple of months. I was running 1.1bar+ and used to get the knock light any old time - including when under full load in the 3rd/4th/5th. My motor was sold on with 45K miles on it and is still going strong a year later.
I\'m not saying Marco\'s car ISNT detonating - you should get any car you buy checked out to ensure its running safe - I\'m just saying the heat light is NOT a worthy indicator of such. If its detonating regularly then he\'ll lose a motor without a doubt.
TEll him to start saving £3K for an engine or get it to some one with a wideband lamda sensor and datalogit who can check its running ok and adjust it to safety until he can get it tuned properly...
So is there recommended air/fuel ratios for setting up on the rollers?
I think it is generaly exepted that anything between 10.5 and 11.75 is good over 12 and I think you would be in detonation alley:D
Cheers guys you\'ve been really helpfull.
Got me car booked in at Nemesis to check it out as there only down the road.
Marco
On another good note, im getting my clutch sorted tomorrow :D
Ive been running on a slipping clutch since ive had the car so im expecting good things.
QuoteOriginally posted by Clover
Cheers guys you\'ve been really helpfull.
Got me car booked in at Nemesis to check it out as there only down the road.
Marco
Nemesis have a rolling road now?