This is what the engine bay looks like at the moment...
(http://file042a.bebo.com/0/large/2008/10/15/23/2411662225a9162998939l.jpg)
The How to ....
First of all not all Rx7 engine bays will look like this. This has an aftermarket intercooler along with aftermarket induction kits. Also near the top right of the engine bay is a fuel pressure regulator (red and blue). The intercooler and induction kit is removed in the same way on a stock car. I think on a stock car there is also some air ducting for the stock intercooler.
These should be all the tools you need.... Minus an engine hoist, jack and axle stands.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01361.jpg)
I would advise labelling everything up to jog your memory and to take lots of pictures.
First things first, remove the battery. Simple enough job. Loosen the two nuts holding the clamp down and also the battery terminals themselves.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01352.jpg)
To remove the intercooler from the stock elbow you simply loosen the clips holding the hoses in place. There are also some holding it onto the block on the other side of the IC.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01353.jpg)
Next remove the elbow, this is taken off by undoing the 4 nuts/bolts hoding it in place. It will then slide off.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01354.jpg)
The engine will then look something like this...
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01355.jpg)
Next we decided to drain the coolant the fast way. Simply by undoing the top radiator hose. (not very enviromentally friendly I know!)
If you wanted to do it the proper way you should get under the car and release the drain screw/plug from the bottom of the rad.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01356.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01357.jpg)
At this point, you might as well disconnect the bottom rad hose (which we havn\'t yet - but it only takes 30 seconds).
Some bits and bobs removed...
The IC, the air filters, the elbow and the battery.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01362.jpg)
To get access to the top rad hose to remove it, you need to remove the fuse box at the front of the engine bay from its normal location. All you need to do is undo the two bolts and move it out of the way.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01363.jpg)
This is the map sensor...
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01364.jpg)
It lives near the top right of the engine bay. I would advise disconnecting this and putting it somewhere safe until you\'re ready to put everything back together. They don\'t like being bashed about etc.
Next remove the AST hose from the water pump/filler neck housing.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01367.jpg)
We then removed the belt around the power steering etc. This is simply done by adjusting the tensioner to slacken off the belt. You can see it circled in the picture (the top circle). The bottom one is the tensioner itself.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01368.jpg)
Next remove the clutch line. This is located near the top right of the engine bay near the map sensor. To remove it you use a spanner, one on each side and undo the right hand side of it. You also have to pull the clip out which holds it all in place. Simply use a pair of pliers to do this.
1 and 2 are where the spanners go and 3 is the clip.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01369.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01371.jpg)
This is a pic of my Upper intake manifold. What\'s attached may differ to your car. But I have a boost gauge lineand a fuel pressure regulator line. Best to label these up if you\'re not sure what they are. Also near the top is an earth which needs to be unplugged.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01372.jpg)
Cover obvious places where any nuts/bolts could fall down!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01374.jpg)
This is a pic of the fuel lines which need removed. Again my car differs from the norm. There is a left, right and top one. I only have left and top as the other is fed into the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.
To remove these, just release the clips and pull them back further down the hoses. The pull them to get the disconnected. You may have to really pull and yank to get these off. I would advise labelling these up as TOP, LEFT, RIGHT so you know where they go back.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01376.jpg)
Next remove the speedo cable, which doesn\'t require any tools, just a bit of fiddling about.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01377.jpg)
Now looks like this....
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01379.jpg)
At the top of the UIM there is a plug which needs disconnected. This goes down to the downpipe. Possibly an O2 sensor? (don\'t really need to know what it is or what it does, as long as it goes back where it should!)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01380.jpg)
Next you should remove the ECU. The ECU can be found in the left of the passenger footwell (RHD cars). It is hidden behind a bit of interior trim. There are several plugs on this that need removed. I have an Apexi PFC, but the same principal applies.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01382.jpg)
After this you then have to disconnect some more plugs on the same loom as the ECU wiring. There is a blue plug and also a white one which might not be so easy to find. It is slightly further up and behind the glove box area. There is also an earth from the ECU harness which is bolted to the left hand of the passenger footwell also. Then pull/feed the cables through the firewall.
This is a view of the underside of the gearbox. What you can see is the inspection panel. This is removed so you can undo the flywheel bolts. This is the easiest way I have found rather than playing about with the clutch release thingy which I could never get to work!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01388.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01390.jpg)
This is what it looks like removed...
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01402.jpg)
Also you can see one of the bolts that need removed. Simply undo these one by one. Once you have removed one, you can push the flywheel round to the next bolt using a screwdriver, or by someone turning the pulley on the front of the engine. Keep doing this until they are all removed.
You then need to disconnect the plugs from the gearbox. These are found on the side of the gearbox on the passengers side of the car.
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01396.jpg)
Simple enough job.
On the passenger side of the gearbox you\'ll find the starter motor. Disconnect any plugs connected to it along with the earth. Then preceed to undo the two bolts holding the starter on. The bottom one is easy enough, but the top one a little more tricky. You need to get a spanner onto the back of the top one to hold it still while you undo the main bolt. Tricky, but still easy.
Once off it will look like this....
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01400-1.jpg)
Don\'t let it drop on you as it is quite heavy!
You then need to remove all the bolts holding the gearbox onto the block. There are 6 or so (maybe). Easy anough to find, just work your way around the bell housing. All can be taken out from below with the exception of two. To get the top two I would advise removing the Upper Intake Manifold.
Be carefull when doing this as on a stock car there are lots of hoses/plugs connected. My car has been converted so the turbos run in parralel (spelling) instead of sequential, so alot of that has gone as it\'s no longer needed.
Your engine bay would then look something like this...
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01403.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01404.jpg)
It is awkward to get to the top gearbox bolts (one each side of the engine bay), but it is doo-able with a spanner.
That\'s where we\'re upto at the moment. There\'s a few plugs to be disconnected, oil lines to be disconnected, engine mounts undone... and that\'s it!! (oh and drain the oil!)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/weebockle/Rx7%2008%20Engine/DSC01412.jpg)
I will continue this when I get a chance to do some more work.
This doesn\'t take long, about 2 hours this afternoon if you\'re confident and know what you\'re doing.
Some good stuff there mate :D
Nice, but did someone steal your uim while you where having a brew? Good to mention the gearbox loom plugs i forgot about these.
cheers chaps. This will contiue when I get the chance to do some more work on it.
Should be handy for someone as I didn\'t have a clue when I done this on my first Rx7.
This will come in hand for me one day i\'m sure of it :Thumbs-up
Adam
What is the procedure if I want to take both engine and box out.. any threads on this ?? thanks btw this will really help!!
Jim, I love you! Im doing this job this weekend :Giggle
nice pics there, good tip for the clutch as well
there is no need to undo the clutch at the line, just undo the 2 2mm bolts that hold the slave onto the gearbox, saves bleeding the clutch again
colum
oh ffs jim! :D
i only just sold your old one off ;)
Any tips for disconnecting the exhaust?
Quote from: leon;548643Jim, I love you! Im doing this job this weekend :Giggle
It is a doddle mate. If you get stuck gimme a shout.
Quote from: Bobbit;548726Any tips for disconnecting the exhaust?
Are you serious??
Just undo the bolts!
Quote from: rico2k_uk;548691oh ffs jim! :D
i only just sold your old one off ;)
I saw it up for sale! I couldn\'t resist the fun of another Rx7. Sorry did I say fun?? I meant taking the car apart!!! lol
Quote from: rx7boy;548607What is the procedure if I want to take both engine and box out together.. any threads on this ?? thanks btw this will really help!!
Anybody ???
Quote from: Jim_rx7;548964Are you serious??
Just undo the bolts!
No need to be cheeky.
I\'ve never removed the exhaust before bud, was only wondering if there were any tips or ways to stop it dropping onto the floor or if you need to undo bolts in a certain order etc. I\'m guessing not.
Just take your time mate. Simple enough. It\'s not gonna drop and kill you as it\'ll still be on the mounts etc.
I\'ll be doing the rest tomrrow (not removing it though just now until I get the hoist). I\'ll be doing engine mounts, draining oil, exhaust off, disconnect oil lines etc. Will post pics once done.
The only thing I didn\'t do actually was how to remove the Upper intake manifold. (the part that sits ontop of the engine at the back). This is a simple, remove the bolts you can see job. Then move carefully as hoses and connectors sit underneath.
:Thumbsup!
Cool I\'ll be removing my engine soon so theis will help and hopefully save a few bloody knuckles. Where the rest ?
Still to get round to it! Should be done on Sunday
This post came in the right time. I lost my rear rotor last Friday and intend to rebuild mine. Should be even easier in my case as running single turbo setup.
is the engine out and just adding the pictures sunday??
if its not out i would recommend taking the engine mounts off the motor, you will find it a million times easier, well i did any way lol
Not out yet. It\'s coming out on Sunday mate. Along with the rest of the pictures.
I took the engine out on my last Rx7 without removing the engine mounts, didn\'t have any issues. I\'ll bear it in mind though if I do this time.
Ok....
After all the above, there was still the bottom rad hose to remove (previous owner had chewed the rad plug to release the coolant! ).
Drain the oil
Remove the downpipe - this is done when the engine is half in the air. The downpipe also needs removed from the midpipe under the car.
Disconnect a few plugs (follow the loom from the battery terminal and fuse box and you should find these)
Remove one coolant line from the passenger side of the block.
Disconnect the oil lines from the block - these are located at the front of the engine. Just follow them both. They are joined together with a little clip that you simply pop off with a screwdriver, then wiggle the lines to release them.
Take off each nut holding the engine mounts onto the subframe.
Once the above is done, you simply need to start to raise the engine - slowly! Once you start to get it going, wigle it about, yank, pull etc. It can be a pain to disconnect it from the gearbox. The flywheel will also get caught on the gearbox now and again. Persevere and you will get there.
(http://file039a.bebo.com/12/large/2008/11/16/13/2411662225a9430332370l.jpg)
(http://file039a.bebo.com/12/large/2008/11/16/13/2411662225a9430332417l.jpg)
(http://file039a.bebo.com/12/large/2008/11/16/13/2411662225a9430332455l.jpg)
(http://file039a.bebo.com/12/large/2008/11/16/13/2411662225a9430332494l.jpg)
(http://file039a.bebo.com/12/large/2008/11/16/13/2411662225a9430332525l.jpg)
Nice one mate just done exactly the same thing to rebuild mine a a couple of weeks ago although i\'ve put the thread in the members section....:D:D Good fun aint it lol
Did you have 1 or 2 oil coolers? I got twin oil coolers and they need big spaner to undo from the block ...
i\'ve got 2 mate yeah and was a 24mm bolt
I\'ve got 2 also.
You don\'t need to undo them using a spanner to lift the engine out. Simply undo the clips.
24mm... cheers for that. I think I used an adjustable last time.
Quote from: Jim_rx7;548964Are you serious??
Just undo the bolts!
thats a bit harsh considering some of the questions u keep asking :Nono!
Quote from: interloper393;555245thats a bit harsh considering some of the questions u keep asking :Nono!
My bad! :(
Apologies to the person who asked! Obviously caught me on a bad day. :)
Quote from: Jim_rx7;555253My bad! :(
Apologies to the person who asked! Obviously caught me on a bad day. :)
i should think so 2 lol, your doing well tho bud, 1 page of pics to remove the engine, looks so easy :rolleyes:
This is absolutely wonderful, and I am half way through, hoping to have the engine out tomorrow.
However, please could somebody explain the clutch situation to me? I have never had a clutch system apart on anything other than R/C models before (centrifugal clutches).
Why is it necessary to disconnect the clutch line in the engine bay? Is it attached to the engine or something?
Why is removing or loosening the slave cylinder (whatever one of those is or looks like!) near/on the gearbox an alternative to disconnecting the clutch line in the engine bay?
Can somebody explain the configuration.. what does what and why anything needs to be done at all? Is it just to release the pressure of the clutch against the flywheel or is it because something is attached to the engine that\'s being removed?
Thanks very much, and thanks again for the graphical writeup.
cheers,
Carl
I\'m just thinking i didn\'t remove the clutch line on mine, the line goes to the gearbox i seem to remember, the general idea is just to depressurize the system. (which can be done with the nipple.) Once you have that you can undo all those bolts on the flywheel, and then pop the release bearing away from the clutch. (which involves two screwdrivers.)
That\'s how I got mine out anyway from following instructions i was given, there may be a simpler solution! thinking back now I believe i ended up using BOTH methods to remove it as i was not sure it was free.
One being removing the clutch from the flywheel, the other being disengaging the clutch from the gearbox.
you don\'t need to undo the clutch line to undo the flywheel bolts etc.
The only reason you do is because once you pull the engine out, the gearbox will drop slightly which would result in the clutch line snapping if it was still connected.
Quote from: Jim_rx7;608154you don\'t need to undo the clutch line to undo the flywheel bolts etc.
The only reason you do is because once you pull the engine out, the gearbox will drop slightly which would result in the clutch line snapping if it was still connected.
Ah, I see. Thanks for the clarification. I feel much more confident when I know why I\'m doing something.
What are these two, and what do I do with them? I can see that the first will be removable once I go and get myself a bigger spanner, but what about the second?
(http://www.css-networks.com/hoses/1.JPG)
And what about this one? It goes into the firewall and has some insulating foam around it. It looks like an A/C line as the gas filler points are on there.
(http://www.css-networks.com/hoses/2.JPG)
There is no gas in my A/C system BTW so I\'m not bothered if the easiest procedure would discharge the system.. easiest is best please!
thanks :)
I am going to try to remove the mounting piece which has those two pulleys on it (A/C and .. PS pump ?) Hopefully that\'s the right thing to do, and will just leave the first hose in question.. is that a coolant hose?
Sod that, changed my mind. Off to get some big mole grips to disconnect hoses.
the things in the 1st pix are oil cooler lines.
First of all remove that cross bar. Then follow the two lines. They are connected together with a little spring clip. Pop these out and pull the hoses apart. You don\'t need a spanner.
As for the air con line, simply disconnect from the pump.
Quote from: Jim_rx7;608200the things in the 1st pix are oil cooler lines.
First of all remove that cross bar. Then follow the two lines. They are connected together with a little spring clip. Pop these out and pull the hoses apart. You don\'t need a spanner.
As for the air con line, simply disconnect from the pump.
Top man. All that stuff\'s done now. Bolts are off the flywheel, just need to remove the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine, sort downpipe and pull harness through firewall, then it\'s lift lift away!! Groovy :)
It became much easier to turn the flywheel once I\'d taken the car out of gear :eek:
How come I had to remove the starter motor BTW?
I would assume so it doesn\'t get damaged when removing. Would also be a right pain putting the engine back in with the starter there.
Good luck mate, it\'s fairly simple. Why you removing if anyway?
Quote from: Jim_rx7;608226I would assume so it doesn\'t get damaged when removing. Would also be a right pain putting the engine back in with the starter there.
Good luck mate, it\'s fairly simple. Why you removing if anyway?
\'cause engine is buggered. I think I understand the starter motor thing now.. is the flywheel the thing with the teeth in it that the starter engages to?
I\'m just putting the engine crane together. Little bit disappointed because if I\'d have got on the phone to tool hire companies before 12:30 today, I could have saved myself buying a £170 engine crane :(
The gearbox snapping the line is not much of an issue if you have a jack underthere to take its weight :)
An Alternative one for the air con is there are 4 bolts holding the pump to the engine, i took 3 of those out with ease the 4th was a real bugger but i got it, then lifted the engine out leaving the aircon and ps pump still in the bay :yes
I\'m really struggling on the heatshield above the steering knuckle for removing the DP... Having a fag break and will try SmbFD3S\'s technique:
Quote from: SmbFD3S;551937Exhaust manifold/downpipe heat shielding…. Right there is an "easier" way to do this and the manifold. When under the car and facing forward you will see the steering stem. Soak the visible splines in WD40 or penetrating oil first as I did. You will see a stem attached at either end, at the top loosten the bolt and at the bottom remove the bolt. You can then slide (with a hammer on the tab, you’ll see it) the stem up, which will detach from the bottom bracket. This gives a 100% greater access to the manifold and downpipe.
CarL0s i got away with leaving the downpipe still attached to the engine! pulled it all out in situte, took a lot of wiggle and swearing but i did it :Hammer I think half of it was down to me having a sloped drive so extra room under the car to tilt the engine when i lifted.
Quote from: leon;608251CarL0s i got away with leaving the downpipe still attached to the engine! pulled it all out in situte, took a lot of wiggle and swearing but i did it :Hammer I think half of it was down to me having a sloped drive so extra room under the car to tilt the engine when i lifted.
That\'s exactly what I\'m going to do now! I got the heatshield off, and three nuts (actually 1 nut and 2 nut & studs), but I can\'t get to the fourth nut.
I am just struggling on the top gearbox bolts now, which Jim says it\'s best to remove the UIM to get to.. I\'m struggling to remove the UIM ..
Right I\'m ready to lift it out now, but where are the engine mounts?
I think I found them.. underneath, next to where my axle stands were (they\'re on the sills now)
(http://www.css-networks.com/AXLE.JPG)
?
to the left of the axle stands in that picture. Basically at the rear corners of the subframe. You can see them both in that pic.
All done. That\'s gotta be a record - 11hours to pull an engine? ;) Although that did include a trip to McDonalds & Halfords, and then another trip later to Machine Mart, and I\'ve tidied up too.