What are peoples thoughts on this?
i run no AST and never had a problem. I just used a FC filler neck piece and works fine
That\'s what I\'m thinking of doing. Just not sure about the plumbing side of it once it\'s removed. I did read a guide, but didn\'t think it was that clear.
I\'ve ditched the AST too, same as Ash. You need to plumb two pipes once you fit the Fc cap, one to the rad and the 2nd near the water temp thingie. i used 2 off cuts of metal and 2 jubilee clips on each. Bish bash bosh!
Waiting on my fc filler neck from mrp.I bought cheap rad from ebay with no ast nipple.
Jim what type of inlet temps do you see with your smic?
I would love to be able to tell you mate, but my engine looks like it\'s just suffered water seal failure. :(
how about the good old ali AST that WGT sell?
i\'m in two minds whether to just remove it, or put an ali one on.
I\'m not running an AST either. I don\'t even run the small diameter line from thermostat housing to centre bottom rad either. Just used a bung on them. Never had any problems on mine either, and been running it for over 2 years like this.
Quote from: nikp;548818I\'m not running an AST either. I don\'t even run the small diameter line from thermostat housing to centre bottom rad either. Just used a bung on them. Never had any problems on mine either, and been running it for over 2 years like this.
So am I right in thinking all you have is the top and lower rad hose connected? Everything else blocked off?
yup just like a normal car, 1 hose in 1 hose out lol, u need to make sure theres deffo no air in the system tho.
Quote from: Jim_rx7;548961So am I right in thinking all you have is the top and lower rad hose connected? Everything else blocked off?
sounds like it. i might do this to save a kg or 2 but surelky its there for a reason
Quote from: nikp;548818I\'m not running an AST either. I don\'t even run the small diameter line from thermostat housing to centre bottom rad either. Just used a bung on them. Never had any problems on mine either, and been running it for over 2 years like this.
saw a guide for doing this on fd3s.net
a couple of guys on that board brought up the issue of heat transfer, the theory being that because the gas bubbles aren\'t collecting in the now absent AST they\'re being circulated. gas isn\'t as good a conductor as liquid so the engine isn\'t cooled as efficiently.
would be good to see some real-life data on this. i\'m guessing if you fill the coolant system properly and eliminate as much air as possible you\'re looking at negligible differences?
just wondering guys what are the benefits of getting rid of the ast?? i have a metal ast and doesnt weigh very much and its not like it takes up much space in the engine way so what are the main benefits??
thinking of giving an ast mod a go this month, either remove it or stick an ali one on.
did any of you guys running no ast notice any change in your water temps?
I might get rid once I have the engine sorted and back in the car.
The issue is that the water pump creates little bubbles at high rpm with the standard pulley (theres a word for it but cant recall at the moment).
The larger pulley should help reduce this making it safer to run without a AST
I think the word is \'Cavitation\' sp?, I think Mazda fit it as a belt and braces mod to \'help\' with cooling. Removing it all together would benefit only as removing some more \'weak\' links as you would save on hoses and a few more joints in the system, and possible AST and cap failure, not what you want on a track car ?
P.
thats the word!
Mine\'s eliminated - posed me no issues now for around 1000 miles so far..
I guess I followed the way it\'s done using the FC filler neck, but tapped into the standard filler neck as so:
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u259/rjpartri/Mazda%20RX7/P1012976.jpg)