Hi,
My Turbo II has been parked up unused for a week or so, and i went to start it today and i wont have it. Sounds horribly low on compression (I think, but it always cranks over fast), and spits out rather a lot of smoke....
This doesnt sound at all good.....!
Sounds flooded to me - do a search on here for Flooded and you should find the answers :)
I\'ve tried that. Still wont go! I\'ve had enough of cars now!!!
If it\'s really badly flooded it will be a total b1tch - may even need tow starting...
not sure what the prob is thou with mine when i 1st got it the batt dies easy aft tryin to start it too much so hade to call rac / aa out to get booster cable n jump start.
so maybe 1/2 dead battery??
i know ur nt ment to press the acc pedal when starting it but i have to do that when i start my car as the cold start had vanished some how.
Quote from: Brett;534930If it\'s really badly flooded it will be a total b1tch - may even need tow starting...
yep I had to tow start my cab, smokes like a beeee-atch for about 10 mins then it should clear.
i know when i killed the cab , that took some real starting
1 - remove egi fuse
2 - remove plugs
3 - crank over for 10 seconds
4 - leave
5 - repeat No 3
6 - repeat No 4
7 - clean plugs - get them over the stove to remove the fuel and then wire brush the ends
8 - put plugs back in
9 - make sure battery has a full charge
10 - put egi fuse in
11 - turn key - do not touch any pedals - just start it
12 - run away and close all the doors and windows in the house as it WILL smoke
13 - leave to run for a while - get it up to temp
14 - take it for a spin
jobs a good un :D
still no luck, even towing! I\'ll try again tomorrow.
Take the plugs out and dry them, then do the fuses thing :)
Mick
Change the plugs, get some new ones in there and with a fully charged battery it will fire as long as you have spark and fuel. Also if you suspect compression then put some oil in the chambers, add it in the plug holes or even via the inlet manifold, this might just be a stuck seal or something. You still need to make sure you have the basics which is fuel and spark.
Its running now, with a tow start, but its not running well at all. :( I\'ll leave it running for a while longer & see what happens
you need to leave it running for at least 20 mins then drive it for 20-30 mins
ah, right. its been running badly for at least 1/2 hour, didn\'t think i\'d need to drive it too!
best of luck bud, could need new plugs
whats the diff between tow start and push start..?
You can go quicker with a tow start! :) Driven it, still lumpy as hell. Bad misfire, gets really bad under heavy load, so i didn\'t nail it!
Right, my mate has compression tested it, and apparently the rear rotor is around 7, but drops down to around 5 at one point. Thats bad isn\'t it??? :(
definitely low on compression.... Time to get the spanners out and see how these things work then!
sounds like a stuck seal to be honest - if you get 7 , 7 , 5 or 7, 5 , 7 then it might be it
have a read on rx7club.com for the ATF trick
It might not be all that bad, still could be just a stuck seal. It might have been a good idea to tell us how the needle was bouncing, assuming you used a normal piston tester. Could be any combination of either 3 even bounces, etc etc. This might also tell you that its a water seal gone or rotor seals. If its the rotor seals then you have nothing to lose by spending some money to see if they can be loosened up.. Theres loads of tricks and just do a search for using ATF fluid etc etc etc. It depends on what you want to do with it if it is just worn. Even a basic strip and rebuild with just the seal kit can be done for £1500 if you get the engine delivered (block) or try \'restore oil\' it does work if its down to compression generally but if you are getting a 7 and then a 5 then it does seem one of the rotor seals has gone, either stuck or damaged. Not much you can do in this case but strip and rebuild after at least trying the above.
there you go, almost said at the same time eh Grinder !! I\'m just a slow typer. So defo worth doing.
mmmm, not sounding good !!
you did more of a full desc pete - mine was just short and sweet :D
No, it isn\'t sounding good at all. It did drive nice, a seal cant be fine one minute, and knackered the next time you start it can it?? Surely it would be a slow deterioration in performance? Or is it a bit like a piston ring that can snap? I thought they just wore out?
dont take my word on this - but - i think this is the whole reason for red lining them every time you use it - it stops the carbon build up on the housings
what might have happened is that a small peice of carbon has come loose and wedged the seal/tip and its not following the curve of the housing
the ATF trick - this eats carbon therefore might "unstick" the seal
its worth a shot at the end of the day - what have you got to loose
you can also do it with a can of coke - but im not sure about this method !! - there is a vid somewhere of a guy with an engine on the floor with bad compression - im sure he pours a can of coke into it - then spins it over with a compressor and frees the engine up
Have you tried new plugs, or just bump started it ?
Mick
It has new plugs, i\'ve just woken up (work nights) so i\'ll go try the ATF trick now.
Did you try the ATF Trick if so what was your method?
I found this too on rx7club.com very interesting:
(QUOTE Eric) Water instead of ATF for decarboning
Hey y\'all, I was talking to Rob Golden at Pineapple Racing last weekend and asked about his experience with the ATF treatment. He said that he prefers to use water.
1) works well, steam is very effective at breaking up carbon. Gives a noticable power gain.
2) easier and quicker, just pull a vaccuum hose at the dynamic chamber and pour 2 liters of water in (no kidding) while the car is reved up and down above 4k rpm. Just pour it in as fast as you can without killing the motor.
3) doesn\'t fowl plugs, O2 sensor, or clog the cats like ATF (actually cleans them).
I gave this a try last weekend and here was my experience:
I pulled a vacuum hose off of the dynamic chamber and placed a fresh hose in it and submerbed that
hose in 1 liter of water. The motor sucked up the water over about 3 minutes or so. I had to give the car gas to keep it running; about 4 k rpm most of the time, but I varied this quite a bit between 2k and 6k rpm. Obviously the car ran rough during the treatment. Towards the end of the treatment I noticed smoke coming from the side of my car near the back wheels and a burning smell. I looked under the car and to my suprise the cat and muffler pipes were glowing orange hot! (it was about 30 minutes before dark) I don\'t know wtf was going on but it got my adrenaline going! I shut the car off and let things cool down.
After things cooled down I took it for a spin. The car runs better, idles better, and has a bit more power (feels like 10-15 horsies, but this us just a guess). It also has noticeably better response at part-throttle. Feels more torque-y. So, it works, but I\'m worried about what all that heat could do to my new mufflers and cat, although everything seems fine now.
Anyone else ever try this?
-Eric (Quote Eric)
Duncan
Sorry guys, I\'m going to slightly hijack this thread because i\'m having the same problem, except my compression and engine is fine, had that checked over. It seems that if i leave the car for say, two hours, she wont start up again and i have to get her bump started, anytime less than that, say about an hours cooling or 3 or more hours and she starts up fine... i\'ve renewed the spark plugs, I\'ve cleaned the dizzy terminals... argh, someone please help me out here!
Perhaps its got a leaky injector?
Quote from: Skifledanabit;564660Sorry guys, I\'m going to slightly hijack this thread because i\'m having the same problem, except my compression and engine is fine, had that checked over. It seems that if i leave the car for say, two hours, she wont start up again and i have to get her bump started, anytime less than that, say about an hours cooling or 3 or more hours and she starts up fine... i\'ve renewed the spark plugs, I\'ve cleaned the dizzy terminals... argh, someone please help me out here!
Are you running a power FC?
You need to check the Voltage to the TPS \'Throttle Position Sensor\', once the engine is at operating temp the voltage with Throttle close should be between 0.75v and 1.25v and no more than 5.0v at WOT
You check this with the engine off and just the ignition on!
On the power FC its the VTA1 on the sensor check.
I have adjusted mine to 0.90v on closed throttle and haven\'t had a problem with it starting since hot or cold and it is running 9\'s L and T!
Duncan
Quote from: DMDRIFTING;564832Are you running a power FC?
You need to check the Voltage to the TPS \'Throttle Position Sensor\', once the engine is at operating temp the voltage with Throttle close should be between 0.75v and 1.25v and no more than 5.0v at WOT
You check this with the engine off and just the ignition on!
On the power FC its the VTA1 on the sensor check.
I have adjusted mine to 0.90v on closed throttle and haven\'t had a problem with it starting since hot or cold and it is running 9\'s L and T!
Duncan
Fair play... I\'m not an automotive electrician... I\'m more mechanical parts... so in lamens terms...?
The TPS is got to be number one priority as its easy to check its setup and is notorious for going oput of adjustment, either a Fluke or two filaments to check this out.
If you adjust the idle then adjust the TPS again.
Are you running a power fc?
I dont know what a power FC is...
Power fc is just an after market ecu, and with this and a commander you can read the sensor values!
It just makes it a bit easier to check the voltage for what your trying to achieve :Talking1
Not a problem though, have you got a digital multi meter? If not they are cheap, and can be purchased from a motor factors!
yeah i have a digital multimeter
Right do you have an FD Workshop Manual?
You need a stubby screw driver, and you\'ll need to find the TPS, it sits at the back of the Intake Plenum underneath the Small coolant hose that runs into the Throttle body!
Remove the Plug and check the voltage with you Multi meter!
Hang on, I will get the manual on here for you!
(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i89/Dmdrifting/ThrottlePosistionSensor.jpg)