Hiya Chaps
on the way to RS5 the car started making horrible noises when we hit the town centre on the way down
it drove fine - just bad noises from the back end :(
drove it home and forgot about it - went to the Heigh Hall meet a few weeks back and it was still making it
so whilst the better half was out - i jacked it up and set to work finding out what noise it was
didnt start off to well - i have no idea what im doing with brakes and no haynes manual to be found ( damn house move !! LOL )
so quick phone call to shaun and brett - i had a better idea what i was doing
for a start off , i undid the 2 * 14mm bolts - yup - thats right - bad idea - all i needed to do was undo the 12mm and lift the caliper up ( OK lesson learned )
manged with some fighting and messing to get the 2*14mm bolts back in and undid the 12mm and lift the top of the caliper out - took the pads out ... and i can personally say - i think i need some new pads
SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
1 - where is best to buy them from
2 - why do you have to WIND the piston back in when surely it doesnt wind out when you use it ??
Stu
Thats exactly how its supposed to work Stu - sorry! You can get the tool to wind it in from Halfrauds for about £15.
Any good motor factor should be able to supply pads :)
Time to check the fronts?
:wave
i think the fronts are OK - they look pretty new Green Stuff ones ( or they are bright green anyways ! )
those pads look fine to me! well i dont think you can even call them pads anymore :D
I think with the pads in that state you are probably gonna need new discs aswell! take a look at the discs and they are probably full of groves and marks that shouldnt be there
Bloody hell theres tight and then theres Grinder.
Wow every spare mm of compound used.
yeah i know ... i was getting my moneys worth
I need to have a good check of the disc and make sure its ok
its not done many miles in that state - so im hoping they are ok
Quote from: Brett;533326Thats exactly how its supposed to work Stu - sorry! You can get the tool to wind it in from Halfrauds for about £15.
Any good motor factor should be able to supply pads :)
Time to check the fronts?
:wave
use 17/19mm open end spanner,place the open end into the slot of piston and wound anti-clock to home in. understand?
Well done Stu. Makes me want to check mine to see what the squeak is, although mine isn\'t as bad as yours was not by a long shot.
ahhhhhh so i see why they call you grinder now!! :Giggle
i reckon at night you would have seen sparks coming off your brakes :2Confused
Grinder, grinder, grinder !!! Oh how I laugh at some of your threads. Being Mr Tightarse does not mean you have to be tight on your own safety !!!. The rear brakes are easy to change ONCE you have only undone that SINGLE 12mm bolt.
Some calipers wind in and out others simply just act in a linear way but either way they have to move out to compensate for brake pad wear. You wind them/or push them back RIGHT into the caliper housing when fitting new pads. I have used flat bladed scredrivers to wind them back in or my rather large G clamp to push them back in. If they never did that then you would have a terrible amount of pedal travel before they started to bite. Pads are actually quite cheap and there are plenty on Ebay for the rears, the fronts are the same as the FD but you do get what you pay for.
Whilst you have that caliper off, yes take it right off that top slider, you can grease the sliders to ensure that they do not bind. use the copper ease sparingly, dont over doo it.
oops and I said it was the 14mm bolts :Giggle Glad to see you got it off though. Thats properly worn down to the bone !
You may have killed the discs though !
Shaun
Must admit Stu the disc\'s didn\'t look too good when we we\'re a Haige Hall. You might be able to get them skimmed up if not I think the ones on my spare car are ok. Let me know and I\'ll whip them off and clean them up for you for a nice price
hiya chaps :D
the discs arent tooo bad ( according to the MOT guy ) - he said they are a bit pitted but nothing overly serious ( i think ) - but i need to check them
the pad thats gone is the inner side - so i need to get my head right under and have a good nosey at it - i really dont fancy knowing what the price of new discs are :( - unless adrains are ok ??
i didnt relise the pads were that low ( esp when its only recently passed the mot )
i will get some ordered tomorrow and i might get the tool to wind the piston back in - once its bought i have it for ever and i will prob need it for the other side
i have spare fronts in the garage just incase ( some mintex ones or what ever they are called ) - just no rears
whilst its jacked up - i might give the inner arch a good paint with underseal aswell - everything looks nice and solid underneath the car and around the diff - so thats a good sign
and the braided hoses are OK - i knew the fronts had them - just didnt know about the rears
once i get the pads and some nice weather i will take some more pics and make a HOW TO thread as i couldnt find one when i looked
Stu
Don\'t buy cheep pads Stu. When I was in Thailand I went to a Cashew nut factory. They sell the shells to a brake pad manufacturer to put into the pads. I\'m not jokeing either.
Stu,
if your pads are one down on one side then please check that they slide on the calipers freely, you will just eat through your new set otherwise. They should ideally be worn down to the same thickness if everything is working properly. Never ever needed that tool but they are good, my local garage has a set that connects to an airline, expensive as a whole kit cos they have one for every make and type going.
yeah i will check that the calipers side freeely when i come to rebuild it - i dont want the brakes being bad :(
so the piston - can we confirm that its wound in anti-clock wise then ?
i will speak to the local motorfactors for some pads
If you use one of the tools then you can;t get it wrong. ;)
can you got the same tool for the FD, if so which one?? :wiggle
Quote from: sweetiewells;533503can you got the same tool for the FD, if so which one?? :wiggle
It\'s a universal tool for single pot calipers - so will work on any car with a single pot.
Like this:
(http://www.incarshop.co.uk/acatalog/1314_sml.jpg)
thats the one dave - looks like they are about £20 at halfrauds
or ebay : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Laser-1314-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Wind-Tool-Adaptors_W0QQitemZ360083806276QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item360083806276&_trkparms=72%3A1121|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
oooooooohhhhhhhhhhh this looks interesting : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-3-8-Drive-Brake-Piston-Wind-Back-Cube-New_W0QQitemZ160278649459QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160278649459&_trkparms=72%3A1121|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Trust you to pick the cheapest thing on the market !! actually seems a very simple tool, good spot mate. Might be tempted into something similar.
i was just doing a random search to be honest :D
and its made by sealey - so i cant see it being some peice of crap ?
the only downside from the looks of it - is that it doesnt wedge itself in the caliper - so you might need more force to move the piston ?
Quote from: grinder;533750the only downside from the looks of it - is that it doesnt wedge itself in the caliper - so you might need more force to move the piston ?
Don\'t force it, just screw in:)
just been looking at the FSM - and that says to screw the piston in clockwise
right then - all sorted :D
not a BAD job once i figured out what i was doing
1 - already had the wheel off and the pads out
2 - so challenge was to screw the piston back in
3 - after about 10 mins - it was in - use a 15mm spanner ( open end ) wedged in the V cut outs and turn with another spanner
4 - got the caliper back down and all tightened up
5 - went round to the other side
6 - got clare to stand on the brakes and loosened the wheel
7 - easy bit now - remove wheel and the pads
8 - wound the piston in about 2 turns and it was TIGHT
9 - phone call to brett - he suggested pressing the brake to get the piston out a bit then wind it back in and repeat
10 - we did this and still it was getting stuck with about 7mm left to wind in
11 - even with me and clare we couldnt wind it back in ( i held the caliper and the spanner - she was just turning it )
12 - 5 mins of struggling and that was it
13 - off to the shop and 1 piston rewind tool was bought ( £18:80 the robbing *******s )
14 - 5 seconds later and the piston was wound in
15 - everything was reassembled and test drove
its still making a noise - but no where near asbad as it was - but im assuming the pads need time to bed in and i need to run the high spots off the disc !#
the tool is worth its weight in gold - should have bought one straight away - would have saved 20 mins of swearing and grazed knuckles :D
Quotethe tool is worth its weight in gold - should have bought one straight away - would have saved 20 mins of swearing and grazed knuckles
But that just wouldn\'t be the tight AR$E we all know Stu.
Kevin
he he he tooo true matey !
if it can be done cheap then i will always try that method first - still think its expensive for what it is though
Quote from: grinder;538665the tool is worth its weight in gold - should have bought one straight away - would have saved 20 mins of swearing and grazed knuckles :D
Right, deep breath :eek:
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must admit - i didnt like parting with the cash
but after winding it in and it sticking , then popping it out with the brake , then winding in back in - repeat about 5 times
gave up and bought one
cool thing now - if any body needs one around here - they know where i am :D
Why didn`t you tell him to get one Brett ?? :)
Yes drive it to Guys on sat or sunday ?
Mick
didnt think that had been arranged mick ??
i cant anyways - got a party today and picking clares parents up from the airport tommorrow