ok
So i am now insured on the sisters clio again (ah joy...) and the i have untill i go back to uni to fix all the problems i can on the car.
The Problems ;
1) Bad fuel consumption: im getting 16 mpg with mixed driving. Though i managed 22 on the motorway the other day. ive pretty much put this down to a problem with the injectors as there\'s not much else i think it could be.
Is it likely that i\'ll need new injectors or can they be cleaned up?
2) Engine Hesitation/cut out: Ive mentioned this one before. Basically if i try and floor it turning left when there\'s a half a tank or less of fuel in the car the engine cuts out for a second then carries. This causes quite a violent jerk and i can imagine that it leans out the engine quite a bit which is bad, havn\'t had this happen for a while though.
I think i was told about checking the wiring to the fuel pump and also something about a small cup in the fuel tank that holds a bit of fuel for going round corners. I don\'t want particularly want to be taking the fuel tank out though.
3) Brakes: When i drive the car first thing in the morning the brakes usually squeak a bit (its a low sounding squeak), but lately they\'ve been squeaking a but when my foot isn\'t even on the break. So I put this down to 2 things. Either there\'s a leak somewhere or there\'s a seized piston in one of the calipers. Im sure its coming from the rear calipers. Ive been thinking of upgrading the rears anyway, does anyone know of a good upgrade just for the rears, as ive already got fd front brakes.
If not i read i read in the workshop manual that when rebuilding the calipers i would need a special brake tool? Am i really going to need one or can i bodge some sort of screwdriver?
4) Dashboard Light and clock: These have both started to flicker some times whilst driving. It usually happens more when the car is cold. Spoke to my dad and he said it sounded like a relay is dying. Does this mean that im going to get a new switch? Or is it possible to save it before it completely breaks?
5) Leak: There seems to be a leak from the outside of the car somewhere which results in the passenger side rear seat getting soaked. Though i can\'t seem to find the leak anywhere. The seal for the boot seems fine and its right above the seat and from the water marks on the seat it looks like the waters been dropping down. Are there any common problem leaks that occur? Also how the hell would i fix it?
6) Spark plugs: The car hasn\'t had new plug for well over 5k miles, is this likely to have any effect on fuel consumption? Also is there anything i need to watch out for when changing them? And is it worth putting some sort of up rated ones in?
7) MOT: The cars MOT is due in about a week, but as ill be driving the clio it isn\'t as urgent (still high priority though). Anyway, The car is running an uprated header (which required the baffles to be removed), a de-cat and a TII y-pipe and back boxes, also the air pump has been removed. I have no idea how all the emissions stuff works, so does it sound like the car will be failing on emissions? if so what can i do to help it? I heard that getting the engine nice and warm would help, but im guessing the cars probably putting out too much c02 for that to make a difference.
8) Rust: Now the car has a few small bits that i want sorted, not bothered about looks, just don\'t want it to spread or get worse. I really know nothing about treating rust, so if i stick up some pics later can someone give me advice in what products to use how to treat it etc.
Right, so any info or advice would really be helpful :D
And if anyone wants to help me out at all with the work, that be great, i\'d be more than happy to give you tea coffee lunch etc lol.
I best get started then
cheers :D
To be honest mate i was told that that fuel consumption is about normal for an EGI :-( not great i know and i did everything to mine to try and lower it
Change plugs and leads
Keep oil topped up
fully inflate the tyres and drive the car sparingly...Unfortunately i never managed more than 22 mpg like yourself. and now it\'s got the header kit it\'s pretty much singlehandedly destroying the planet...YEY atleast i\'ll be remembered lol.
As for emmisions there are i think 4 screws that can be adjusted to lower the emissions, these control airflow fuel mixture etc i know nothing about them but my mate in cippenham is a relative expert.
Oh and if she doesn\'t sell im sure we can work something out for parts for yours...I say that begrudgingly lol
2) my fc does that also. known prob with fc\'s. though mine does it at 1/4 tank or below. sth to do with the cuel taking fuel out from a silly point in the tank.
3) maybe u got stone caught between the pad and disc..?
4) mine also flickers at times.. think its a lose connection but no time to investigate yet. it comes back on when u tap hear the switch tho the dim(ness) does vary.
if its too much to sort out then sell it n get the TII the other kid was selling on here.
was a steal at think 700.
Quote from: BBCFC;532634if its too much to sort out then sell it n get the TII the other kid was selling on here.
was a steal at think 700.
the problems arn\'t too much, i did buy the car with the intention to work on it.
i\'d love that TII but im struggling to afford my car as it is, and the insurance would rape me more than it is already
as for a stone in the brake pad, i dont think so, because its only when the car hasnt been used for a while, so the squeak is probably the the rust beeing wiped off. because it continues whilst my foots off the break for a bit i just asumed a seized piston.
and cheers demon, hope you sell your car, but if you dont :D
1) You could try Redex, it might help with the injectors. Apart from that, check air filter is clean and not blocked, and timing is set correctly.
2) This does sound like the petrol is falling below the level of the sock on the fuel pump - that sock should sit in a square cup shaped thing that\'s designed to prevent this happening when petrol is low in the tank. - If you lift the rear carpet, take off the metal plate that has the wire going through it, then you will see a oval shaped metal plate on the top of the tank - it has loads of screws - undo these and gently lift the fuel pump assembly - you should be able to see inside and check in the tank. Best to do this when it\'s fuller - as there will be less vapour
3) Do the usual checks for scoring of the disk, uneven pad wear and and disc thickness - could also be a missing or broken v pin or caliper retainer spring. Could be sticking piston. As for the special tool - I got one locally from Yately motor sports for about £15 - well worth it
4) Bad wiring or earth is the most likely - but check fuses are seated correctly
6) They can have a big effect on mpg and emissions - worth pulling them to check - a new set will cost you about £30-40
7) MOT - with decat and no air pump it may be fun trying to pass emissions - new plugs, adjusting air flow at idle, and warming the car first will all help. If you can get a cat on for the test your laughing - or find a lenient tester ;)
Thats about average for an EGi in terms of MPG - you see more if you dump all the emissions control stuff.
well when i got the car it was doing 21-22 mpg where its now doing 16 and 25 where its now doing 22, so i know it can be better.
Anyway thanks a lot for the help.
Prof, what am i going to be looking for when i look inside the fuel tank? Mainly that the sock isn\'t in the cup?
cheers guys :D
have you checked the air filter ??
Sounds like a really good Fc you have there, congrats on such a fine example.
Lots and lots of reasons, sometimes we look far too deeply in these engines than we really should, its the rotary paranoia setting in.
Whats the mileage on the engine?
Oil pressure?
Fuel consumption is still good but by giving it a good service in plugs, oil change and clean air filter will help lots.
Adjust idle to correct 750 or there abouts, make sure it does all the time, mine sometimes creeps to 1000 (TII) but if I blip the throttle it settles down to 800.
Change the fuel filter this might be the cause of your problems and its easier enough to check your fuel pressure.
Check all your earths, at least 2 on top of engine, 2 around the coil areas, might be worth earthing your ECU body with a seperate cable to a good earth. Earth on top of the engine/gearbox mating housing.
If your car is suffering under hard excelleration then this could be the fuel pump on its way out.
The rear brakes just need taking off, plunge the piston out and clean it, no special tools are needed. You can rebuild them with new seals for about £35. If yours are rusted let me know if beyond repair. I have some. Also check it slides as well, this will only wear your pads and disks on one side only and is not very good.
If you can bring your car to me I would gladly get everything sorted free for you buts it must be 100 miles or so so bit of a journey.
The water leak is highly likey the sunroof if a coupe and the even bigger sunroof if a Cab !! I have spare seals for cabs but not coupes. Make sure your ECU is dry!!! we dont want any water there at all, just ask Grinder.
All your problems are the most commonist probs for the FC and all you can do is do the basic in the way of sevicing 1st, thats a priority. Then you can tackle the other bits bit by bit.
ah now that has really help pete cheers :D
engines done about 50k on a rebuild
I don\'t know about the fuel pressure, its the only gauge that i don\'t know about, usually glued to the temp gauge :D
the cut outs are more under accelerating when turning left, the cars absolutely fine in a straight line
well your half on the way up to uni so maybe i could pop in if i havn\'t got it all sorted. Though i don\'t want you to just do it all :P thanks for the offer tho.
still waiting for the insurance on another car to be sorted, then gunna get down to business. The thing im worried about most though is emissions, hopefully a tune up and a warm up can sort this out :D
Mate I dont mind fixing the probs, get most of them done fairly swiftly, have a few spares to swop and eliminate any engine probs. I think that if its just when you go around corners then it still can be the pump but as you will be in the tank to ensure the filter is on correctly and nothing amiss in there be worthwhile making a note of the fuel pump. I had a Bosch 044 pump and that would do that all the time in my FD, going round left corners and with about 1/3 tank left of fuel. Never found out why as I soon got rid of that. I do have a spare pump hanging around so you can try that and see if it sorts it out. Might also be worth reading how to adjust the TPS as that also can play havoc with your idle and throttle but as I have said get it serviced, at least change the plugs but then 5K is not too bad but at least get them out and ensure clean.
The emissions as long as the engine is sound will be ok, there are various ways to tweeek it, remember this got through the MOT last time so unless things have been seriously tampered with then it will be ok. Having a look at the plugs can tell you if its running rich or not. Too much soot is bad, needs to be just right.
I am a bit tied up until after the next weekend as I have the Richard Burns Memorial WRC Rally to organise but will be free after that if it helps. There are a few chaps down your area that might pop in and help you out. I will more than willing send stuff to try, if it dont work then just send it back. I am slowly running out of spares so need most stuff.
well id really like to try this fuel pump out and im more than happy to pay you for it :D
im on my way back to uni on the 22nd which is weekend after next, if its too tight for timing then id deff like that pump posted (obv id pay postage):D
i havn\'t got into the sorting the car fully yet as im still at work untill next sat. Ill have a bit of a play around and if the problems still there id deff be interested in the pump :D
thanks again! Think ill take pictures all the way along so i stuff can be added to the faq.
1 for me, 1 for mrc
I will dig it out, its for a TII so may well be a bit stronger than a EGI one, not sure on the specs but it will defo be better. I will check to ensure its ok, email me at pdtaylor18@hotmail.com with an address. Postage will be about £3 or so but leave that till you have tried it and if it fixes it then just pay in a oner. Pump will be no more than £20 all in. I will never use it again apart from fault diagnostics as I use uprated pumps.
ok cool. maybe be a while before i email you.
really apriciate this though, cheers.
just want to get started now!!
right, sorted the fog light and change the spark plugs today.
the car feels a lot smoother and a bit more powerful.
anyway my dad said he thought the old plugs looked like the engine had been running a bit lean. I thought the car was running rich.
what do you think?
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/4883/pict0018em9.th.jpg) (http://img145.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict0018em9.jpg)
(http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/8857/pict0019ki2.th.jpg) (http://img379.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict0019ki2.jpg)
the the best pics but the tops of the plugs look a light brown/beige colour.
Also emissions, spoke to demon today and he said theres 3 screws he used to sort his. One was the idle screw, one was on the afm and the the 3rd was on the throttle i think.
Anyway he said to turn the idle screw down untill the engine was just about stalling, then adjust the others to make it run smoothly. Sounds all good and well but this could cause the car to run lean, which i dont want. Any info on this would be much much apriciated.
thanks in advance :D
What plugs are those? rotary plugs don\'t have electrodes that stick out and look like this:
(http://www.autoguide.net/apf/images/products/engineparts/u899962885mtp.jpg)
I had a Ford escort plug in mine, when i bought it lol
They have to have consealed electrodes cause if they didn\'t they would hit the apex seals....
lol - love the plug pics !!! :D
the plugs are sold on mazda rotary parts. And judging by clives experience with rotarys i think they\'ll do.
so any answers to the questions?
humm i thought the EGI ran BUR7EQ ??
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp