Hi everyone,
I\'m new on here, well, registered a while back but didn\'t end up buying one, but i finally got my hands on a 1990 Turbo II. Picking it up Sat hopefully. Well, hopefully sooner, but work commitments may prevent that!
Any of you guys around my area? Colchester area that is.
Cheers guys,
Here she is by the way,
(http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n172/jamesnolan1981/rx.jpg)[/IMG]
Ok, that doesnt work!! Any ideas??
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n172/jamesnolan1981/rx.jpg)
Lets try that :)
Welcome to MRC :wave
Hi Brett. Thanks for that. How did you do that? I have another pic i like!!!
(http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n172/jamesnolan1981/fcside.jpg)[/IMG]
Can you show that one too?? Thanks :)
lovely car mate
Here you go :driving
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n172/jamesnolan1981/fcside.jpg)
To add a picture, click on the insert image link above the text box where you write and enter the URL of the image, e.g. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n172/jamesnolan1981/fcside.jpg
Ok mate, cheers! Yeah, i like it quite a bit. When i pick it up i\'ll get started on tuning it a bit! No idea what these go like standard really, i\'ll have to have a look about on here!
Woo :) welcome in :) Just remember to keep it topped up with oil, warm it up before driving it and wait a few minutes before shutting it down for the turbo to cool :)
Also be careful in the wet as it might decide to fishtale around when you don\'t want it to lol has it got the option ABS?
Cheers for the advice mate. I\'ve had a supra, and an S13 so not new to the turbo RWD thing, the rotary thing is all new though!!
Ok, just make sure that its topped up with mineral oil and is changed every 6000 miles or so, you can see the oil lines just next to the air pump, should be golden, if its black, change it.
Rememeber to warm the engine up fully before boosting ie make sure that the water temp needle is 1/2 way up the gauge and has been there for a bit, this is cause the engine has lots of seals that need to expand and they all expand at different rates.
If looked after a turbo II FC engine should last between 100-125k miles, if you have problems starting when warm, get a compression test done.
Further more if you start the engine DO NOT just switch it off before its got up to temperature as the engine will flood if you try and restart and you would have to go through a whole list of procedures to un-flood the engine.
PS no reving from cold lol
If you go by these guidelines your engine will be happy and so will you be :D
as another member on the site said:
If its cold, drive it like its broken, when its warm, drive it like its stolen :D
Now that is useful info, thanks mate. I\'d heard to use very good quailty synthetic, mobil 1 etc, just not cheaper synthetics. But its mineral all the way is it?
And you say dont switch it off before its up to temp? What if i only go 4 or 5 miles? How long does it take to warm up?
There is a big debate on the use of mineral versus synthetic, basically because the oil is directly injected into the engine to lubricate the rotors (hence the requirement for oil at all times) it has been found that synthetic oils sometimes leave a residue in the intake, which is bad, this is why mazda have said to only use mineral oil in rotarys as there isn\'t any residue. Its up to you, but I only use mineral oil, firstly cause its usually cheeper than synthetic and secondly, its always going to be quite fresh anyway as oil changes are ever 6000 miles or so.
With regards to warming up the engine, people have different preferences to what they do, but what I usually do is start the engine and idle it until its just on the bottom of the water temp guage. The engine will be fine to drive around on but not reved and boosted on until the needle is nearer the middle of the gauge.
This will usually take a few minutes, but its worth it to protect the engine as this is a high perfomance engine eg:
Stock turbo II engine = 153bhp per litre
Stock 300ZX engine = 88bhp per litre
Stock Veyron engine = 125bhp per litre
For short distances its ok as long as its nice and warm when driving off, the engine kicks out a lot of heat so it will be up to temp at the end of the drive.
Furthermore, as you have found out/probbaly will find out, as soon as you turn the engine on the car will rev to about 3k revs and then drop to idle, then as soon as you press the accellerator it will go to high Idle. This system is called the AWS (accelerated warmup system) and can be defeated by:
1. Push the clutch down
2. Put the car in first
3. Keep holding the clutch down and then turn the key
This will begin the AWS but then defeat it in a few seconds. If you are in a hurry and you need to get somewhere you can just let it go though the system, but as mentioned before reving a rotary from cold isn\'t good. I usually do the AWS defeat procedue and then just blip the throttle to bring it to high idle, will take a few minutes to get to temp.
If the exhaust smokes a bit on start up, thats normal, this is due to the oil in the engine burning off as its started, which is fine, as long as it clears after a few seconds.
If you have any issues with the car just ask on here :) but what I will also suggest is that you replace certain parts of the car that might fail and cause engine damage, these are \'safety mods\' and are a good idea to check or replace:
1. HT leads - the leads on you car might now be 18 years old and are notoriously thin and might break...this isn\'t good
2. The power steering cooler pipe (the pipe running in front of the radiator) WILL leak due to rust and corrosion
3. Fuel pump - This will also be old, it is recomended to either change it with a Walhbro 255lph pump or rewire it to ensure that the engine has fuel.
4. Run some Redex injector cleaner though the system to clean out the injectors
Causes of engine failure:
1. No oil
2. Engine runs lean
3. Overheating
If you have a UK car it should be ok to run on 95, but 99 RON or Vpower should be used in these engines, you will notice a big difference between the 2 fuels, I personally go for 99 RON as my car seems to have been chipped, if your car is a Jap import then it will be mapped to 100RON and MUST be run on high octane.
Fuel economy of a turbo II:
Best possible = 25mpg
Town driving = 16mpg (thats what mine is anyhow)
On boost for prolonged time = sub 10mpg
I get nearer 28mpg on the Mway not that I would notice the 3 extra mpg! And like you say round town between 11 and 15 mpg and on boost sub 10mpg.
You will enjoy this car. And although it seems like there is a lot to remember (do and don\'ts) They really arn\'t that bad to look after aslong as you follow the golden rules from above.
Also like said above if you want to know anything, just ask on here (there is no such thing as a stupid question).
28 mpg - bloody hell - i have never ever seen those sorts of numbers :(
i think on the way down to RS5 i averaged about 17mpg and that was a steady 75 ish
saying that - its an auto - so they are supposed to be more thirsty - but not that much :(
maybe decatting it is a good idea :D
Quote from: m1tch;526732Stock turbo II engine = 153bhp per litre
im pretty much sure that that isn\'t for fuel displaced, but physical size :D
Ok so it was more like 27.8 mpg. And it was last year before I put this new ECU in. Having said that I seems to be better fuel economy now at Mway speed.
I get 20MPG on a mixed run but seem to get no more than 200 miles per tank !!! not even going to work out the correct figure, if i tell my missus what it really does she might stop my fun !!! and if I can convince myself that 20MPG is what I believe I am getting then that will do me.
I have a question... The S4 runs to 1989 right? I think mine is a 1990, which would make it an S5 yeah? but i\'ve been told the S5 doesn\'t say \'turbo II\' on the front wings. I\'m sure mine does. So that means its an S4? Are they any good? Thought it was an S5. :( How else can i tell?
i thought the S4 had the square lights on the back as opposed to the very nice round lights.
my front wing sais \'GT-R\' which i researched ages ago that the GT-R spec was only S4.
so hard to tell which is which cos ppl can always change the lights etc.
the only gd thing i kno about S4 over S5 are S4 had lower compression so can put a bigger turbo on it =)
Is urs a uk or import car? (btw JDM has the side indicator infront of the wheel so if urs aint uk then maybe import form us or oz etc..)
Mine is uk. theres a pic of it at the top of this thread. Picking it up sat so those pics are all i have to go on!
u should try pick it up earlier if poss n join the london run on sat
He has the later spec lights cos his is a 1990 and is a S5 UK spec car, also better turbo than on a S4 so more BHP.
Your car James will b an S5. The badging is whether its UK or JDM (I think)
S5 is totally different ECU
Different Engine sensors and adde on bits to the loom
Air flow meter different and should be a smaller rounder type plug not long and squarer on the ends
door trim moldings are wider and more flush
There are so many things but because of your year, your flush side trims and the style of the front bumper from the outside its S5.
You can also forget whatever badging you might have as that means very little if its JDM. The japs would put every option available on a base car (and still do) so you may think you are buying a base model but in fact when it turns up you have all the mod cons. This goes for any car sold in Japan.
If you have a look at my car its S4, the trim is narrower and sticks out more, however it has S5 lights, S5 front bumper and it is actually totally a UK S5 engine and loom (as whole car is). This car started out as a 1988 S4 JDM car so never trust whatever you may think you see. Looks can b deceiving. My car co-incidently was reloomed cos of the S5 engine transplant.
Quote from: James N;527042I have a question... The S4 runs to 1989 right? I think mine is a 1990, which would make it an S5 yeah? but i\'ve been told the S5 doesn\'t say \'turbo II\' on the front wings. I\'m sure mine does. So that means its an S4? Are they any good? Thought it was an S5. :( How else can i tell?
in the uk we only had s4 non turbo\'s and s5 turbo\'s.
the easy way to spot them is the rear lights, also the s5\'s are completely colour coded where the s4\'s have the black strip running round the outside
Mine is a uk S5 1990 and is badged with the Turbo II on the front wings. infact so is my 1991 car.
Quote from: BBCFC;527062u should try pick it up earlier if poss n join the london run on sat
I\'d love to, but very unlikely to happen! I\'m trying to sell my skyline, but not having much luck, so the rx will probably sit at my mates unit till the skyline goes. I dont understand how it hasn\'t sold yet, ok its a NA and an auto, but i dont want much as i needed it gone asap!! :(
got pics of ur skyline? price?
jus curious.... for now lol
lol, hold on, i\'ll put a link up to ebay listing. Its buy it now for 1000, few cosmetic bits needed. you have a red fc in your avatar, i\'ll even give you a discount!!! :)
one minute.....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280259520513&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=018
buy me buy me buy me :)
not bad.. i like da rims. tempted if i didnt have an auto already lol or if it was 93 year or newer.
good luck with the sale.
welcome to the wonderful (if rusty) world of the FC!
Looks like a nice example you have there, be interesting to hear your plans for it!
As stock they were officially 201bhp, 0-60 in 6.5 (some say 6) secs, and fairly agile. You may want to invest in new poly bushes as the original rubbers are 19 years old now and if they are anything like the ones on mine they will be as hard and perished as a hard perished thing!
Mod wise, hell the sky\'s the limit, there are one or two FCs around in the UK pushing upwards of 450bhp (makes them pretty uncompromising as daily drivers though)